During a visit to Starved Rock State Park in Illinois, I struck up a conversation with a lively group of women on a girls’ trip from Wisconsin. They were seasoned adventurers, always seeking new outdoor escapades. Naturally, I offered to snap their picture, and in return, they shared a treasure trove of must-visit spots. One gem that caught my ear was Parfrey’s Glen State Natural Area. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that this secluded natural wonder is actually nestled within Wisconsin’s Devil’s Lake State Park, which happens to be my next destination—hailed as the best state park in Wisconsin by the Discoverer Blog.
Pictures: Entrance Sign off of County Road DL | Parking Lot
Helpful Hints
Wisconsin charges for entry to its state parks, and Devil’s Lake is one of the pricier ones at $16 per day for non-residents. However, you can snag an annual pass for $38, which is a better deal if you’re planning a longer stay. The only catch? The pass has to be attached to the inside of your windshield. Even though I was in a rental, I opted for the annual pass since I was staying for three days—$48 for daily fees versus $38 for the pass? No brainer!
Now, as you’re planning your visit, I wouldn’t recommend paying $16 just to see Parfrey’s Glen. It’s a nice spot, but not worth the fee on its own. If you’re visiting other parks in Wisconsin, it’s a great addition to your trip.
A Glimpse into History
Parfreys Glen, named after Robert Parfrey, a 19th-century settler who was among the first to appreciate its beauty, has long been a cherished destination for nature enthusiasts. The glen’s formation dates back to the last Ice Age, over 12,000 years ago, when glacial meltwater carved through the sandstone and quartzite, creating the narrow, steep-sided gorge that we see today. This geological marvel not only showcases stunning rock formations but also serves as a living testament to the Earth’s dynamic history. As Wisconsin’s first designated State Natural Area, this enchanting gorge offers a fascinating blend of history, adventure, and breathtaking scenery.
Pictures: Rock Rededicating the Park as a Natural Area
Peaceful Morning Hike
I spent the night in Middleton, Wisconsin (just outside Madison) and woke up early, ready for an adventure. Since I was ahead of schedule, I decided to check out Parfrey’s Glen for a morning hike. The trail is a manageable 1.7 miles round trip, perfect for a peaceful start to the day. The cool morning air and last night’s rain kept the bugs at bay, though they were starting to stir.
Parfrey’s Glen offers a relatively easy yet incredibly rewarding trail that takes you deep into a stunning gorge. The hike begins with a gentle stroll through lush woodlands, then gradually becomes more rugged as you get closer to the glen. Along the way, you’ll cross a creek multiple times and be surrounded by towering cliffs and vibrant, moss-covered boulders. The trail ends at a beautiful waterfall, where the soothing sound of cascading water invites you to pause, reflect, and enjoy the tranquil scenery.
My morning hike at Parfrey’s Glen was the perfect start to an adventurous day in Wisconsin!
Pictures: An Old Pitcher Pump | Trailhead Marker | Initial Part of the Trail
Pictures: Views along the hike
Pictures: The trail and one of the areas you cross the creek
Pictures: The beautiful walls of the gorge
Pictures: Close up view of the gorge walls
Picture: The waterfall at the end of the trail
Pictures: As I finished my hike, I saw a deer | The Ice Age Trail goes into Devil’s Lake State Park
With the long summer days, a shorter than expected stay at Backbone State Park and as I had not booked a place to stay for the evening, I just drove east to see if I could get to Charles Mound during daylight hours. I am happy to report that I did make it and now I was ahead of schedule!
Important: Read Before You Go!
If you are going to visit and “summit” Charles Mound, there are some important items to note. Stay updated by checking Highpointers.org, especially since the property has new owners. From the Highpointers Website:
Exact Address
Please go to the owners preferred place of entry at 688 W Charles Mound Rd.
There is a gate and a sign that you are in the correct place.
Visiting Days
The 2024 open dates: June 1-2 | July 6-7 (Hence the timing of my trip) | Aug. 3-4 | Sept. 7-8.
Please time your visit to occur during daylight hours.
Respect the Property
Just a reminder that this is private land, so please be respectful during your visit.
The owners ask that, as before, you park on the road and walk from there, no vehicles on their lane, and no pets.
In an nutshell – don’t be “that” person that ends up ruining it for those who wish to add Charles Mound to their list of High Points.
Thanks!
We want to once again thank the Wuebbels for the many years of visitation and thank the new owners for continuing to graciously allow access.
My Advice
It’s an easy hike, with little elevation change.
Bring Bug Spray – lots of it! The mosquitoes were relentless at the high point!
Make sure you check-in, there is a log book at the summit in a plastic bin.
Pictures: The Trailhead | Some reminders, thanks to the Highpointers Organization
A Bit About Charles Mound. . .
Charles Mound, a modest yet captivating peak, holds the title of the highest natural point in Illinois. Located in the rolling hills near the charming town of Scales Mound, this serene summit stands at 1,235 feet above sea level, ranks 45th in State High Points, and was my 28th High Point. The mound itself is named after Elijah Charles, a pioneer who settled in the area in the early 19th century.
Pictures: Summit Selfie | High Point Geomarker
The McRib of Hikes
Hiking Charles Mound reminds me of the McRib, I know a weird analogy. But just as Charles Mound is only accessible a few weekends each year, the McRib appears on McDonald’s menu for limited periods. Highpointers and McRib Enthusiasts eagerly mark their calendars for these rare opportunities, knowing they need to seize the moment or wait an uncertain amount of time for the next chance. In both cases, part of the allure is the knowledge that these opportunities won’t be around for long, making them all the more special than they actually are.
All Joking Aside
The Wuebbels have done an incredible job making this high point special. It’s a beautiful spot – so peaceful and relaxing, albeit the mosquitoes. Trust me, you can’t see it in my photos, but I was practically marinated in bug spray, and those bloodsuckers were still all over my body, head, and face. If it weren’t for them, I’d have taken a seat in one of the chairs to soak in the panoramic views and appreciate Illinois’ natural beauty.
Picture: Charles Mound – and the beautiful work by Wayne and Jean Wuebbels
Pictures: Welcome Sign | Sitting Area – The Highpointers Check-In Log is in the Bin
On my way up, I passed a few fellow highpointers but ended up having the “summit” all to myself. Well, me and a million mosquitoes. After snapping a few pics, I decided to do a trail run back to my car—partly to get my daily run in and partly to escape the relentless swarm.
Back at the car, I spotted a pheasant, which was pretty cool. I also had a brief chat with an arriving highpointer who wanted to confirm he was in the right place. I assured him he was and gave him a heads-up about the mosquito gang waiting at the top. He had just tackled Eagle Mountain (Minnesota’s high point) and Mount Arvon (Michigan’s high point)—both of which I’m hitting later this month—and said the bugs were equally ferocious there. I think it’s time to invest in a head net.
Picture: Pheasant spotting!
A big shout-out to the Wuebbels for their hospitality! Charles Mound is in the books. Next high point: Hawkeye Point, Iowa’s highest natural point.
I’m back at it after a winter hiatus from Highpointing and exploring the Discoverer’s List of The Best State Park in Each State! This month’s adventure revolves around “summiting” Charles Mound, the highest natural point in Illinois. This peak sits on private land, and the gracious owners open it to the public the first weekend of June, July, August, and September, from sunrise to sunset. More on that in my next post!
With these key dates in mind, I embarked on my journey. I flew from sunny San Diego, California, to Minneapolis, Minnesota, where I rented an SUV for my month-long journey through the upper Midwest. I’ll be mixing it up between camping in my trusty SUV and staying at a few hotels along the way. I opted to spend the night in Rochester, Minnesota, and picked up some sundries on the way to my hotel. I don’t normally do this, but I ordered everything ahead of time and drove up to the store to have it placed in the back of my SUV. Talk about a game changer and it saved me a ton of time! The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, I headed for my first stop, Backbone State Park in Dundee, Iowa.
Should a Name Worry You?
We’ve all heard the story: Greenland and Iceland were named with a bit of strategy (and perhaps a touch of mischief). Greenland isn’t exactly a lush paradise, and Iceland isn’t just a block of ice. As I cruised through the charming back roads of Minnesota, I stumbled upon the towns of Harmony and Prosper. Did early settlers name these towns hoping to manifest a little extra luck and good vibes? I wouldn’t be surprised!
Picture: Harmony, Minnesota | Population 1,043
Then, as I meandered through Decorah, Iowa, I spotted signs for the Laura Ingalls Wilder Park and Museum. Shockingly, I learned she was a real person, not just a character from the 70’s and 80’s TV Show “Little House on the Prairie.” Who knew? Apparently, there are several museums, and this one marks her home from 1876-1877. Laura was a writer who penned a beloved series of children’s books about her childhood, aptly titled “Little House on the Prairie.”
And on a completely unrelated note: isn’t it funny how even the tiniest towns in America boast either a Mexican or Chinese restaurant? Next time you’re on a road trip, see if you can spot one!
Backbone State Park and the CCC
I’ve noticed a trend with the Discoverer’s List—many places owe their existence to the hardworking Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) or were among the first state parks in their area and Backbone State Park fits both categories. The CCC built many of the park’s amenities, including roads, trails, and the historic Stone Lodge, which remains a popular spot for gatherings and events. Their craftsmanship and dedication are evident in the enduring structures that blend seamlessly with the natural environment.
According to the park’s website, “Dedicated in 1920 as Iowa’s first state park, Backbone State Park is one of the most geographically unique locations in Iowa.” That’s no exaggeration! While Iowa may bring to mind sprawling farms and flat plains, Backbone State Park breaks the mold with its more rugged terrain. The Maquoketa River’s carved, steep ridge—dubbed The Devil’s Backbone—rises as the highest point in northeast Iowa, living up to its epic name with an 80-foot ascent above the river. This geological wonder not only defines the park but also offers visitors a glimpse into the area’s rich natural history.
Pictures: South Gate Entrance | About the Civilian Conservation Corp and Iowa Parks
Exploring Backbone’s Natural Wonders
I kicked off my adventure at Backbone State Park by entering through the south entrance and snagging a parking spot near the beach and boathouse. Since it was early and the recent rains had turned the lake a bit muddy, I had the whole place to myself—no one on the beach, no boats on the lake. The boathouse is pretty cool with its rustic charm and vintage vibes. It looks like you can rent paddle boats and canoes there, but it was all closed up on my visit. So after a look around, off I went to explore the rest of the park.
Picture: The Boathouse
Pictures: From the Boathouse – The Beach and the Rental Boats
I started my trek on the East Lake Trail, a 2.4-mile path skirting the lake. It wasn’t the easiest to find at first—I had to do a bit of wandering before finally spotting a trail marker. The initial stretch was a little overgrown, not my idea of a fun hike, but certainly added to the adventure. But as I pressed on, the path opened up, becoming clearer and more inviting. The trail was surprisingly quiet, with only a few people around. I did spot three guys fishing, totally soaking in the peace and quiet. Navigating around a few fallen trees was no big deal, and the rock formations were giving me major upstate New York vibes, which was a cool surprise. Despite the muddy waters and high lake levels from recent rains, the trail offered nice views and a serene experience. About halfway through, I stumbled upon the Bluebird Trail, an easy and inviting 2.2-mile detour, perfect for those looking for a gentler hike.
Pictures: The East Lake Trail Marker? | Beginning of the East Lake Trail | One of the many fallen trees
Pictures: Some of the many Rock Formations
As I continued along the East Lake Trail, I ended up veering off track a bit. I quickly realized that the trails at Backbone State Park aren’t exactly the most well-marked. After crossing a bridge, I unintentionally went straight instead of taking the right path. After some backtracking, I found my way back on track, thanks to seeing some hikers in the distance coming from the direction I needed to go in. There were a few pesky flies buzzing around, but I chuckled seeing them donning full-head nets—I initially thought it was a bit over the top. Little did I know, they would have the last laugh as you’ll find out later.
Pictures: Another Rock Formation | The North End of the Lake | Part of the East Lake Trail
Enter in the City Folk
Ah, city folk—those urban adventurers who brave the great outdoors! The Backbone Trail seems to attract them like moths to a flame. It’s the park’s namesake, it’s flat as a pancake, and at just 0.8 miles, it’s perfect for a quick jaunt. As I came up to the parking lot, I braced myself for the urban invasion. Take a deep breath and prepare for the experience!
I’m pleased to report that, by and large, everyone was civilized and respectful on the trail. Having hiked all over the country and read up on this trail, I was expecting a bit more of an adrenaline rush. It’s wide enough, with a few spots near the edge that might make you gulp (especially for someone afraid of heights), but nothing too heart-stopping.
Pictures: The Backbone Trailhead | The Backbone Trail
Pictures: Views of the Maquoketa River as it winds around both sides of the Devil’s Backbone
Pictures: Along the Backbone Trail
Quirky Moment
From the Backbone Trail, I ventured towards the Six Pines Trail, a short 0.6-mile path that surprisingly led me directly to the Six Pines Campground. Getting to this trailhead was a mix of road and trail, making me wonder why the trails aren’t better connected in such a sprawling park. Later, heading from the East Entrance up to Richmond Springs, I encountered a similar situation—only road access was available.
Anyway, at the Six Pines Trailhead, a car pulled up, and out stepped a woman with a distinct foreign accent, casually puffing on a cigarette. She started up the trail ahead of me but then suddenly veered off into the woods between two marked paths. Not sure where she was headed, but hey, to each their own. This trail had some awesome elevation changes and plenty of valleys to explore.
Pictures: Along the Six Pines Trail
Lost Opportunity
Backbone State Park has camping options for everyone. The South Lake Campground offers modern amenities like electric hookups and showers, all nestled among the trees for that perfect nature-immersed experience. On the flip side, the Six Pines Campground gives off a more secluded, primitive camping vibe. Since it was a summer holiday weekend, online booking required a minimum stay of two nights—Friday and Saturday. Planning for just one night, I kept my options open, knowing walk-ups were possible if space was available. After a day of exploring the park, I set my sights eastward, prepping for my next adventure at Charles Mound.
It’s worth noting that when I stumbled upon the Six Pines Campground, it was completely empty—a missed opportunity in my opinion! While I didn’t check South Lake, there might have been some availability there too. Honestly, the Iowa park system could really benefit from a savvy revenue manager for their online bookings. Just a thought!
Picture: The Empty Six Pines Campground (this is Saturday, day 2 of the weekend requirement)
Oh, the Mosquito Saga!
The last trail before I ventured up to the northern part of the park was the West Lake Trail, a 3.0-mile journey that looped me back to the parking lot and boathouse. Right at the start, I crossed a bridge over a swollen, muddy creek—definitely not your average trickle. On the other side, the trail was a squelchy mess, teeming with mosquitoes. They let up once I pushed past the marshy spots, but it was still a battle of wills.
The hike itself was pleasant enough, though a tad monotonous. I was itching (literally!) to get back to the car and explore the northern reaches of the park. So, I trudged onward, and eventually, the trail wound me around from the beach and over the dam that created the lake.
Pictures: The bridge over the swollen creek and a warning sign about high water
Pictures: The View across the Lake | The Dam
Should of gotten the Ice Cream!
I finally made it back to the parking area, and the little shop was open. The park was getting busier and there were even people on the beach and swimming. (I guess the water wasn’t as muddy as I thought in the lake). I stopped by the little shop, tempted by the advertised smoothies. Unfortunately, it was more like a sugary slushy than a real smoothie – definitely a poor choice. Next time, I’ll stick with ice cream! Also, a shop without postcards? That’s a definite red flag. Lesson learned, folks!
Pictures: The Smoothie Sign | Inside the Shop | My Mango “Smoothie”
No easy way
So, just like with the trails, the roads in the park aren’t exactly seamlessly connected. I had to exit through the South Gate and loop around to the East Gate—a bit of a detour, about a 3-mile trek. The East Gate boasts an old-school sign, likely put up by the CCC back in the day. As you drive in, you’ll spot the Maquoketa River Scenic Overlook, which I hiked below earlier in the day. Unfortunately, thanks to all the lush vegetation, the view wasn’t exactly panoramic right now.
Heading north, the road winds for a little over 3 miles. Near the end, there’s a trail called the Barred Owl Trail that I considered hiking initially, but it’s just 0.4 miles and didn’t seem too thrilling. Along the way, there are a few pit stops. The first one is Balanced Rock, which took me a hot minute to actually find—it’s not exactly conspicuous, unlike the one I’ll tell you about at Devil’s Lake State Park in Wisconsin.
Pictures: The East Gate Sign | Maquoketa River Scenic Overlook | The Overlook View?
A not so Scary Cave, but Scary Springs
Next on the road trip agenda was The Cave. It’s just a short hike from the parking lot—nothing too deep or terrifying, as caves go. Near the parking area, the creek flows under the road, and whoever designed it built tunnels that create these cool whirlpools before the water disappears under the road.
Pictures: The Cave Trailhead | Trail to the Cave | Cool Whirlpool
Picture: The Cave
The final stop on this tour was Richmond Springs. They say it’s a constant 48 degrees, but I wouldn’t dare jump in, even on a scorching hot day. The springs looked a bit spooky, filled with patches that seemed like algae or some kind of growth.
Pictures: Richmond Springs | The Growth in the Springs
My take on Backbone State Park
Reflecting on my visit to Backbone State Park brought back memories of my childhood trips to Green Lakes State Park in upstate New York. Living nearby, it was a fantastic spot for picnics, camping, fishing, hitting the beach on hot summer days, or hiking the many trails. It was the perfect getaway into nature. But in retrospect, would it be a park I’d make a special trip to as a destination? Probably not. When I think about the best park in each state, I feel it should rival a National Park, and honestly, Backbone State Park didn’t quite hit that mark. Is it a fun park? Absolutely. Would I go there if I lived nearby? Hell yes.
