Guadalupe Peak | Texas (#27)

The day I hiked Guadalupe Peak was filled with so many emotions. I had read many of the reviews on AllTrails, my go-to hiking resource, which gave me a bit of angst. For example, “The last 100 yards are a bit scary as you can see a long way down and the rocks are slick.” Couple this with the fact that it is an 8.4-mile out-and-back trail with an elevation change of almost 3,000 feet, I was a bit nervous, to say the least, and I had visions of my challenging hike to the summit of Mt. Katahdin on Abol Trail. In the end – Was it hard? – Heck yeah; Was it as hard as Katahdin? – Not even close; and Were you happy you did it? – One word: Ecstatic! So there you have it!

Let’s talk about the Beast of Texas: Guadalupe Peak

Guadalupe Peak, located in Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Texas, stands as the highest point in the Lone Star State at 8,751 feet above sea level, ranks #14 in State High Points, it’s the tallest state high point under 10,000 feet, and was my 27th High Point. This iconic summit offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Chihuahuan Desert and rugged mountain landscapes. Hiking enthusiasts are drawn to the challenging Guadalupe Peak Trail, a strenuous 8.4-mile round trip that rewards climbers with a stunning view from the summit.

The peak is part of the ancient Capitan Reef, an ancient marine fossil reef that once thrived in a Permian sea over 250 million years ago. Today, visitors can marvel at the remnants of this geological history as they ascend the peak. The diverse flora and fauna, including agave and ponderosa pine, add to the unique ecological tapestry of the region. Guadalupe Peak is not just a geological marvel; it’s a testament to the rich natural heritage embedded in the heart of Texas.

The 42nd Largest National Park

Spanning over 86,000 acres in western Texas, Guadalupe Mountains National Park is a vast expanse of rugged beauty. (I can’t believe there are 41 National Parks that are larger than this!) Renowned for its diverse landscapes, the park features soaring limestone canyons, expansive desert flats, and pristine fossilized reefs. McKittrick Canyon, a botanical wonder, showcases vibrant autumn foliage, attracting hikers to its picturesque trails. Carved by time, Walnut Canyon unveils ancient rock formations, while the historic Frijole Ranch offers a glimpse into the region’s ranching past.

Home to over 80 miles of hiking trails, the park beckons explorers to discover its hidden treasures and appreciate the untamed grandeur of the American Southwest. The park is renowned for its towering peaks, with Guadalupe Peak reigning as the highest in Texas and the striking El Capitan. As a designated International Dark Sky Park, it offers unparalleled stargazing opportunities, making it a haven for both adventure seekers and nature lovers. The entrance fee is $10 per person, however, if you have a valid America the Beautiful pass, there is no fee.

Carlsbad, New Mexico

Carlsbad, New Mexico is one of the closest towns to the park, located about 50 miles and 47 minutes to the northeast. During my visit, I stayed at a unique hotel called the Karbani Inn, located on US-180. Their target market is primarily oil field workers and truckers, but despite not being a part of either group, I found the rooms to be simple, reasonably priced, and equipped with all the necessary amenities for an overnight stay. This includes a clean bed, a microwave, a refrigerator, a clean bathroom with a toilet and shower, and free parking. It’s worth noting that the hotel is modular and constructed out of office trailers. I found the staff to be extremely friendly and accommodating. Additionally, the hotel guests – mostly workers – tended to go to bed early and wake up early, similar to hikers.

Pictures: Hotel Entrance | The Karbani Inn

Pictures: My Room

Pictures: Everything you need to be comfortable for a night

Just a heads up – when leaving the hotel and heading south out of Carlsbad, there’s only one gas station, so make sure to fill up before you go! You’ll see signs warning you that there won’t be any more services for the next 130 miles. Also, keep in mind that you’ll be going to Mountain Time, but your phone might still show Central Time because the cell towers are in a different time zone. So remember that you’ll lose an hour.

An Epic Start To My Day!

Up and at ’em by 6:00 AM, and let me tell you, the morning gifted me the most mind-blowing sunrise. Heading towards the Texas-New Mexico border, my eyes were treated to the sight of majestic mountains like El Capitan and Guadalupe Peak rising proudly from the desert floor.

Cruising along, I made my way to the Pine Springs Visitor Center entrance. A quick drive took me to the trailhead parking lot, and I couldn’t be happier about snagging an early spot before the rush.

I started my hike just before 7:00 AM and the day could not be better. If you do decided to hike Guadalupe Peak, here are some hiking tips:

1. Know thyself! It might not be a technical climb, but it’s no walk in the park either, so listen to your body.
2. Be prepared for wind, especially the higher you go. So it is important to have the right clothing and Layer, Layer, Layer!
3. Taking a page from my Mt. Kilimanjaro experience, go “Pole, Pole, Pole” – slowly, slowly, slowly. No need to race to the summit; enjoy the journey.
4. Hydrate like it’s your job and pack some high-energy snacks. Trust me; you’ll need the fuel. And if the weather’s fine, consider a picnic just shy of the summit (it can get breezy up there).
5. Be ready for anything – first aid kit and a map are your trail buddies. Oh, and keep an eye out for Mountain Lions and Black Bears. Know what to do if you bump into these wild neighbors.

From the Pine Springs Trailhead parking lot, you have a choice of 4 different trails – Devil’s Hall Trail, El Capitan Trail, The Bowl, and the trail I hiked – the Guadalupe Peak Trail. The initial stretch is a breeze, a gradual incline with a split – El Capitan to the left, and Devils Hall and the Guadalupe Peak Horse Trail to the right.

Pictures: Trailheads | Information about the trails and wildlife, as well as a Hiker’s Checklist

Pictures: Ready for an epic hike! | First trail junction

When you reach the edge of the mountain, be prepared for a series of switchbacks. As you climb higher, the view becomes more breathtaking, and eventually, you will see how far you have hiked with views of the parking lot below and US-62, the road leading into the park. Once you’ve reached the final part of the switchbacks, the trail will level off, and you will find yourself circling to the backside of the mountain.

Pictures: Looking towards the Devils Hall Trail area | Looking down at the Parking lot and US-62

Pictures: The Switchback Up | Just before you circle to the backside of the mountain

Pictures: As the trail levels off and you circle around the backside of the mountain

Pictures: Another breathtaking view | Looking up towards Guadalupe Peak

George!

As you circle to the backside of this mountain, you’ll come across one of the coolest parts of the hike, a bridge across a fissure in the rocks. At first, I thought this would be terrifying to cross due to its height, but it was a piece of cake. It was here that I would first meet George as we both crossed the bridge at the same time. I took a couple of pictures of him at the bridge and went on my way. As one of us would stop to take pictures or stop for a drink or snack, we would pass each other on our way to the summit. Once around this mountain, the trail ascends to Guadalupe Peak. From here you see El Capitan and begin to realize how high up you have hiked.

Pictures: The Bridge

Pictures: Another breathtaking view | El Capitan sighting

Remember AllTrails?!

As I was approaching the last stretch of my hike towards the summit, I kept thinking about the comment on AllTrails – “The last 100 yards are a bit scary as you can see a long way down and the rocks are slick.” I caught up to George at this perilous section. He was having trouble with his footing, so I helped guide him through it. It wasn’t as bad as I had feared, but it still required concentration. Ahead of us, a father, about our age but super fit, and his two grown sons who had passed us earlier were sitting below the summit, and they encouraged us and let us know we were almost there. I reached the summit in 2 hrs. 45 minutes. At the top of the summit, there’s a stainless steel pyramid that was erected by American Airlines in 1958 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Butterfield Overland Mail, which was a stagecoach route that passed south of the mountain.

The view from the summit was breathtaking, making this hike one of my favorites so far. George and I took some pictures of each other at the summit, including a few selfies. Due to the windy conditions, I didn’t stay up there for long, but I had enough time to capture some amazing photos. Afterward, I descended just below the summit, where it was less windy, and had lunch in the same spot where a father and his two sons were earlier.

Pictures: Stainless Steel Monument | Summit Selfie

Celebrity Sighting!

On my way down the mountain, I made sure to check on George and helped him through the tough part he encountered on his way up. Once he was good to go, I let him know that I was going to speed down and we parted ways. I met a ton of people on the way down and chatted with a few of them, so I didn’t make it down as fast as I thought I would.

As I was making my way down the last switchbacks, I met the nicest backcountry volunteer named Pam from New Hampshire. Pam is an older woman who volunteers at different national parks and receives free housing in exchange for her work. During our conversation, I shared with her my family’s connection to Mount Washington, where she had worked earlier in her career. We spoke about hiking a bit and she shared some stories about rescuing people right here on Guadalupe Peak. I later learned that she had probably summited Guadalupe Peak more than 200 times!

I continued my hike, passing a sign for a Palo Duro, which caught my attention as I had just been to Palo Duro Canyon State Park. Come to find out, the Spanish name for a Mountain Mahogany is Palo Duro, which means “hard wood.” It was given its Spanish name because of the extreme toughness of the trunks and branches. I guess I missed this on my visit to the park.

Pictures: Mountain Mahogany or Palo Duro

When I finished my hike, I went to the visitor center, where I spoke with another volunteer and discovered that Pam is somewhat of a celebrity. Her name is Pam Bales and she was the inspiration for a movie called Infinite Storm, where Naomi Watts played her. The movie is based on her true story as a search and rescue volunteer. One day, she sets off on a hike to the top of Mount Washington, but a sudden storm hits. Pam notices tracks in the snow of someone wearing only sneakers and soon comes across an incoherent man whom she calls “John”. Together, they face many obstacles as they make their way down the mountain to safety, almost drowning at one point.

I headed back to my car, gearing up for my journey west, when suddenly, there was George again! I greeted him with a friendly hello and asked if he had spotted Pam on the trail. Turns out, he snagged a selfie with her, and I filled him in on her remarkable story. As a side note, I mentioned George to Pam, and when she met him, she casually said, “Hi George.” He was pleasantly surprised that she knew his name—little did he know the source! It was a fantastic day of hiking, filled with lots of fun and adventure. From there, I set my sights westward toward El Paso, making a quick stop to catch one last view of El Capitan—from the other side. It’s interesting how it looks so different from a different perspective.

Pictures: El Capitan from the side | The rugged mountain landscape

Date of Visit: 17 November 2023