Author: Stephen Page 5 of 14

The day I hiked Guadalupe Peak was filled with so many emotions. I had read many of the reviews on AllTrails, my go-to hiking resource, which gave me a bit of angst. For example, “The last 100 yards are a bit scary as you can see a long way down and the rocks are slick.” Couple this with the fact that it is an 8.4-mile out-and-back trail with an elevation change of almost 3,000 feet, I was a bit nervous, to say the least, and I had visions of my challenging hike to the summit of Mt. Katahdin on Abol Trail. In the end – Was it hard? – Heck yeah; Was it as hard as Katahdin? – Not even close; and Were you happy you did it? – One word: Ecstatic! So there you have it!

Let’s talk about the Beast of Texas: Guadalupe Peak

Guadalupe Peak, located in Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Texas, stands as the highest point in the Lone Star State at 8,751 feet above sea level, ranks #14 in State High Points, it’s the tallest state high point under 10,000 feet, and was my 27th High Point. This iconic summit offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Chihuahuan Desert and rugged mountain landscapes. Hiking enthusiasts are drawn to the challenging Guadalupe Peak Trail, a strenuous 8.4-mile round trip that rewards climbers with a stunning view from the summit.

The peak is part of the ancient Capitan Reef, an ancient marine fossil reef that once thrived in a Permian sea over 250 million years ago. Today, visitors can marvel at the remnants of this geological history as they ascend the peak. The diverse flora and fauna, including agave and ponderosa pine, add to the unique ecological tapestry of the region. Guadalupe Peak is not just a geological marvel; it’s a testament to the rich natural heritage embedded in the heart of Texas.

The 42nd Largest National Park

Spanning over 86,000 acres in western Texas, Guadalupe Mountains National Park is a vast expanse of rugged beauty. (I can’t believe there are 41 National Parks that are larger than this!) Renowned for its diverse landscapes, the park features soaring limestone canyons, expansive desert flats, and pristine fossilized reefs. McKittrick Canyon, a botanical wonder, showcases vibrant autumn foliage, attracting hikers to its picturesque trails. Carved by time, Walnut Canyon unveils ancient rock formations, while the historic Frijole Ranch offers a glimpse into the region’s ranching past.

Home to over 80 miles of hiking trails, the park beckons explorers to discover its hidden treasures and appreciate the untamed grandeur of the American Southwest. The park is renowned for its towering peaks, with Guadalupe Peak reigning as the highest in Texas and the striking El Capitan. As a designated International Dark Sky Park, it offers unparalleled stargazing opportunities, making it a haven for both adventure seekers and nature lovers. The entrance fee is $10 per person, however, if you have a valid America the Beautiful pass, there is no fee.

Carlsbad, New Mexico

Carlsbad, New Mexico is one of the closest towns to the park, located about 50 miles and 47 minutes to the northeast. During my visit, I stayed at a unique hotel called the Karbani Inn, located on US-180. Their target market is primarily oil field workers and truckers, but despite not being a part of either group, I found the rooms to be simple, reasonably priced, and equipped with all the necessary amenities for an overnight stay. This includes a clean bed, a microwave, a refrigerator, a clean bathroom with a toilet and shower, and free parking. It’s worth noting that the hotel is modular and constructed out of office trailers. I found the staff to be extremely friendly and accommodating. Additionally, the hotel guests – mostly workers – tended to go to bed early and wake up early, similar to hikers.

Pictures: Hotel Entrance | The Karbani Inn

Pictures: My Room

Pictures: Everything you need to be comfortable for a night

Just a heads up – when leaving the hotel and heading south out of Carlsbad, there’s only one gas station, so make sure to fill up before you go! You’ll see signs warning you that there won’t be any more services for the next 130 miles. Also, keep in mind that you’ll be going to Mountain Time, but your phone might still show Central Time because the cell towers are in a different time zone. So remember that you’ll lose an hour.

An Epic Start To My Day!

Up and at ’em by 6:00 AM, and let me tell you, the morning gifted me the most mind-blowing sunrise. Heading towards the Texas-New Mexico border, my eyes were treated to the sight of majestic mountains like El Capitan and Guadalupe Peak rising proudly from the desert floor.

Cruising along, I made my way to the Pine Springs Visitor Center entrance. A quick drive took me to the trailhead parking lot, and I couldn’t be happier about snagging an early spot before the rush.

I started my hike just before 7:00 AM and the day could not be better. If you do decided to hike Guadalupe Peak, here are some hiking tips:

Know thyself! It might not be a technical climb, but it’s no walk in the park either, so listen to your body.
Be prepared for wind, especially the higher you go. So it is important to have the right clothing and Layer, Layer, Layer!
Taking a page from my Mt. Kilimanjaro experience, go “Pole, Pole, Pole” – slowly, slowly, slowly. No need to race to the summit; enjoy the journey.
Hydrate like it’s your job and pack some high-energy snacks. Trust me; you’ll need the fuel. And if the weather’s fine, consider a picnic just shy of the summit (it can get breezy up there).
Be ready for anything – first aid kit and a map are your trail buddies. Oh, and keep an eye out for Mountain Lions and Black Bears. Know what to do if you bump into these wild neighbors.

From the Pine Springs Trailhead parking lot, you have a choice of 4 different trails – Devil’s Hall Trail, El Capitan Trail, The Bowl, and the trail I hiked – the Guadalupe Peak Trail. The initial stretch is a breeze, a gradual incline with a split – El Capitan to the left, and Devils Hall and the Guadalupe Peak Horse Trail to the right.

Pictures: Trailheads | Information about the trails and wildlife, as well as a Hiker’s Checklist

Pictures: Ready for an epic hike! | First trail junction

When you reach the edge of the mountain, be prepared for a series of switchbacks. As you climb higher, the view becomes more breathtaking, and eventually, you will see how far you have hiked with views of the parking lot below and US-62, the road leading into the park. Once you’ve reached the final part of the switchbacks, the trail will level off, and you will find yourself circling to the backside of the mountain.

Pictures: Looking towards the Devils Hall Trail area | Looking down at the Parking lot and US-62

Pictures: The Switchback Up | Just before you circle to the backside of the mountain

Pictures: As the trail levels off and you circle around the backside of the mountain

Pictures: Another breathtaking view | Looking up towards Guadalupe Peak

George!

As you circle to the backside of this mountain, you’ll come across one of the coolest parts of the hike, a bridge across a fissure in the rocks. At first, I thought this would be terrifying to cross due to its height, but it was a piece of cake. It was here that I would first meet George as we both crossed the bridge at the same time. I took a couple of pictures of him at the bridge and went on my way. As one of us would stop to take pictures or stop for a drink or snack, we would pass each other on our way to the summit. Once around this mountain, the trail ascends to Guadalupe Peak. From here you see El Capitan and begin to realize how high up you have hiked.

Pictures: The Bridge

*Picture:* Looking down at how high you have hiked up

Pictures: Another breathtaking view | El Capitan sighting

*Picture:* Getting Closer! That’s George in the distance.

Remember AllTrails?!

As I was approaching the last stretch of my hike towards the summit, I kept thinking about the comment on AllTrails – “The last 100 yards are a bit scary as you can see a long way down and the rocks are slick.” I caught up to George at this perilous section. He was having trouble with his footing, so I helped guide him through it. It wasn’t as bad as I had feared, but it still required concentration. Ahead of us, a father, about our age but super fit, and his two grown sons who had passed us earlier were sitting below the summit, and they encouraged us and let us know we were almost there. I reached the summit in 2 hrs. 45 minutes. At the top of the summit, there’s a stainless steel pyramid that was erected by American Airlines in 1958 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the Butterfield Overland Mail, which was a stagecoach route that passed south of the mountain.

The view from the summit was breathtaking, making this hike one of my favorites so far. George and I took some pictures of each other at the summit, including a few selfies. Due to the windy conditions, I didn’t stay up there for long, but I had enough time to capture some amazing photos. Afterward, I descended just below the summit, where it was less windy, and had lunch in the same spot where a father and his two sons were earlier.

Pictures: Stainless Steel Monument | Summit Selfie

*Picture:* George taking his Summit Selfie and trying to get a 360-degree picture

*Picture:* My view while eating lunch – El Capitan

Celebrity Sighting!

On my way down the mountain, I made sure to check on George and helped him through the tough part he encountered on his way up. Once he was good to go, I let him know that I was going to speed down and we parted ways. I met a ton of people on the way down and chatted with a few of them, so I didn’t make it down as fast as I thought I would.

*Picture:* One last view before I’m back at the parking lot.

As I was making my way down the last switchbacks, I met the nicest backcountry volunteer named Pam from New Hampshire. Pam is an older woman who volunteers at different national parks and receives free housing in exchange for her work. During our conversation, I shared with her my family’s connection to Mount Washington, where she had worked earlier in her career. We spoke about hiking a bit and she shared some stories about rescuing people right here on Guadalupe Peak. I later learned that she had probably summited Guadalupe Peak more than 200 times!

I continued my hike, passing a sign for a Palo Duro, which caught my attention as I had just been to Palo Duro Canyon State Park. Come to find out, the Spanish name for a Mountain Mahogany is Palo Duro, which means “hard wood.” It was given its Spanish name because of the extreme toughness of the trunks and branches. I guess I missed this on my visit to the park.

Pictures: Mountain Mahogany or Palo Duro

When I finished my hike, I went to the visitor center, where I spoke with another volunteer and discovered that Pam is somewhat of a celebrity. Her name is Pam Bales and she was the inspiration for a movie called Infinite Storm, where Naomi Watts played her. The movie is based on her true story as a search and rescue volunteer. One day, she sets off on a hike to the top of Mount Washington, but a sudden storm hits. Pam notices tracks in the snow of someone wearing only sneakers and soon comes across an incoherent man whom she calls “John”. Together, they face many obstacles as they make their way down the mountain to safety, almost drowning at one point.

I headed back to my car, gearing up for my journey west, when suddenly, there was George again! I greeted him with a friendly hello and asked if he had spotted Pam on the trail. Turns out, he snagged a selfie with her, and I filled him in on her remarkable story. As a side note, I mentioned George to Pam, and when she met him, she casually said, “Hi George.” He was pleasantly surprised that she knew his name—little did he know the source! It was a fantastic day of hiking, filled with lots of fun and adventure. From there, I set my sights westward toward El Paso, making a quick stop to catch one last view of El Capitan—from the other side. It’s interesting how it looks so different from a different perspective.

Pictures: El Capitan from the side | The rugged mountain landscape

*Picture:* El Capitan – another perspective

Date of Visit: 17 November 2023

Palo Duro Canyon State Park | Texas

By Stephen

On January 30, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | best state parks list

Fog and Cow Manure

The night before I visited Palo Duro Canyon State Park, I stayed in Amarillo, just a short 25-minute drive to the park entrance. When I arrived in Amarillo, the skies were blue, but that morning I woke to dense fog. With the hope of the fog burning off, I ventured out early, only to be greeted by a Texan wake-up call: a lingering essence of cow manure, an aromatic reminder of cattle country.

From Amarillo, I drove south on Interstate 27, then east on Texas 217, a two-lane road. One of the things I appreciate about driving in Texas is the speed limit – 75 mph on both roads! About a mile from the park entrance, you get a glimpse of what you are about to see, and at the time I was thinking how awesome it was going to be.

The Hype is Real!

Palo Duro Canyon State Park lives up to the Texas hype. Known as the “Grand Canyon of Texas,” Palo Duro Canyon, at 120 miles long, and 20 miles wide, is the second largest canyon in the country. The park spans over 28,000 acres and includes 60 miles of the canyon that reaches depths of 800 feet. Home to the iconic Lighthouse rock formation, the park offers 30 miles of hiking, biking, and equestrian trails, many of which traverse million-year-old rock formations. The park’s scenic drive covers 16 miles, providing panoramic views of the canyon’s majestic red cliffs and vibrant colors. Palo Duro Canyon offers a variety of camping options, from primitive sites to RV hook-ups, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the tranquility of the surroundings. As the site of the renowned Texas Outdoor Musical at the Pioneer Amphitheatre, the park combines natural beauty with cultural entertainment. Access to the park costs $8 per person for a day pass, with complimentary admission for children aged 12 and under. Holders of the Texas State Park Pass also enjoy free entry.

The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) played a vital role in the development of Palo Duro Canyon State Park, Texas, during the 1930s. CCC workers constructed trails, bridges, and buildings, enhancing accessibility and preserving the park’s natural beauty. Traveling from one state park to another, many a testament to the CCC’s dedication and the hard work of its young men, I am struck by the invaluable contribution to conservation. The enduring legacy of the CCC is evident in the transformative impact on parks, promoting environmental stewardship and recreation. These parks stand as vital green spaces, nurturing physical and mental well-being for generations to come.

*Picture:* The Park Entrance – notice the overcast/foggy morning

Top 5 Activities at Palo Duro Canyon State Park

Hiking:
- Palo Duro Canyon boasts numerous hiking trails, ranging from easy walks to challenging hikes. The Lighthouse Trail is particularly famous for its iconic rock formation, but there are many other trails with varying lengths and difficulty levels to explore. And as you hike, the park has several geocaching sites to discover and part of the Texas State Parks Geocache Challenge.
Scenic Drives:
- The park features a scenic drive that offers breathtaking views of the canyon. The Palo Duro Canyon State Park Scenic Drive is a 16-mile route that allows visitors to appreciate the stunning landscapes and geological formations from the comfort of their vehicles.
Mountain Biking:
- Mountain biking enthusiasts can enjoy the park’s designated biking trails. The terrain provides a mix of challenges suitable for different skill levels. Make sure to check for trail conditions and any specific regulations before heading out with your bike.
Camping:
- Palo Duro Canyon State Park offers various camping options, including tent camping and RV camping. The park has both developed and primitive campsites, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the natural surroundings. Reservations are recommended, especially during peak seasons.
Cultural Performances:
- The Texas Outdoor Musical, hosted at the park’s Pioneer Amphitheatre, is a popular event that provides entertainment and a glimpse into the area’s history. The musical, known as “TEXAS,” celebrates the pioneer spirit and features live performances against the stunning backdrop of the canyon.

Longhorns, again?!

As you enter the park, you are greeted by several members of the official State Longhorn Herd. They represent the history of longhorns in the area, which roamed here for 200 years and were part of the Old JA Ranch, which was headquartered in the canyon and one of the greatest cattle operations in the world. I am happy to report, that unlike my longhorn encounter on Mount Rogers in Virginia, these longhorns were in a corral and a bit further away.

Pictures: Longhorns | About the Old JA Ranch

I headed over to the Canyon Gallery & Visitor Center, just a short drive into the park—something I always suggest checking out when exploring a new park. The road leading to the visitor center is one-way with an upper parking lot by the observation point and a smaller lot down the hill. Inside, the Gallery showcases historical videos, archaeological and nature exhibits, and features a beautifully arranged display of Southwest art for sale, including handmade Native American pottery, Navajo, Zuni, and Santo Domingo silver and turquoise jewelry, hunting knives, and a unique selection of hard-to-find regional tools like Comanche and Kiowa beaded items, along with t-shirts and hats. The gentleman at the gallery, who shared some info about the park, was really pushing to sell items. I ended up getting a few postcards, though not exactly what he was suggesting. I did discover that the park is an in-and-out park, meaning the road is a loop and there is only one way in and one way out.

Pictures: The Visitor Center & Canyon Gallery (left picture courtesy of Palo Duro Canyon Foundation)

As I continued to tour the park, I saw a lone fireplace, the remains of a recreation center built by the CCC. The CCC constructed their own barracks, a mess hall, a blacksmith shop, a tool shed, and a recreation center before they began work on the park. They spent their downtime at the recreation center, playing games and socializing. I will have to say, if it were not for the internet, I would not have known this as the informational sign for this point of interest was in disrepair.

Pictures: CCC Recreation Center Fireplace | Informational sign in disrepair | Notice the skies clearing

From here, the road winds down to the canyon floor. At the base on the hill you’ll find the Mack Dick Group Pavilion and the Pioneer Amphitheater. The Mack Dick Group Pavilion is a great place for events as it can hold 169 people and has a full-size commercial kitchen. From this parking lot, you can take the Upper Comanche Trail a difficult 3.3 mile one-way trail that takes you half way up the side of the canyon wall. The Pioneer Amphitheater is home to the Texas Outdoor Musical and Shakespeare in the Canyon which run during the summer months (June through August).

Pictures: The Upper Comanche Trail from the Mack Dick Group Pavilion – you can see the road down to the canyon floor in the distance

Let’s Hike!

At the heart of Palo Duro Canyon State Park lies the iconic Lighthouse Rock, a must-visit destination prominently featured in the park’s marketing materials. To beat the midday heat and avoid the crowds, I opted to tackle this trail as my first adventure. It’s a moderate 5.6 miles roundtrip trail, that took me 2 hours 18 minutes to complete and this included a long stop at Lighthouse Rock. Apart from the trail’s length, I found it to be quite easy, except for the final half-mile, which encompasses the majority of the 512 feet elevation change.

As you approach any of the trailheads, you can’t miss the heat warnings and thermometers. Despite it being November, the temperature stood at a comfortable 65 degrees when I began my hike. Being an experienced hiker, I often pass along these safety tips to beginners:

Know your physical limitations and don’t push yourself.
Hiking is not a race, so pace yourself.
Hike with someone and/or make sure you tell someone where you are, when you start, and that you are back safe.
Watch your feet, especially in Texas. Not only should you be aware of rocks, but snakes. I use poles when in areas prone to snakes. Most snakes, like rattlesnakes, will typically move when they feel the ground vibrating from your poles or steps, but copperheads don’t typically move. Juvenile rattlesnakes can be the worst as they have finer fangs to penetrate sneakers and they haven’t learned to control their venom, so they will give you a full dose of venom.
Bring water and snacks for energy. The Texas sun and heat can be brutal, so stay hydrated and remember your body needs fuel.
Check the weather and be prepared. In many areas, storms will come in without advanced notice.

Pictures: Lighthouse Trailhead | Lighthouse Trail

Pictures: Thermometer and warning signs at the trailhead

The morning was absolutely stunning for a hike, and kudos to the park service for an excellent job marking the trails—many markers even include the distance from the trailhead. Early into my trek, the lingering fog dissipated, revealing a picturesque scene. In the snapshots of Lighthouse Rock, you’ll notice clear blue skies adorned with a few wispy clouds high above. As you traverse the canyon floor, be prepared to marvel at the stunning canyon walls, vibrant cacti, and diverse fauna, as well as encounter some animal droppings.

Amidst the beauty, the echoing calls of what seemed like geese high in the sky caught my attention. It fascinated me how the canyon walls magnified their sounds, making the birds surprisingly loud. Continuing my hike, I encountered several dry river beds and I could only imagine how full and dangerous these are when it rains. I did see some signs of the recent rains, but nothing that you couldn’t navigate.

Pictures: Some of the different trail markers and trail guides

Pictures: Cacti | Animal droppings

*Picture:* Canyon Walls along the beginning of the trail. Also, that’s not Lighthouse Rock – I thought it was at first.

*Picture:* The Beauty of the Canyon Walls

Pictures: Bench and Tree | Another Heat Warning along the Trail – this is a serious situation here!

Pictures: Dry River Bed | The little water I saw on the trail

A New Career: Lighthouse Rock Docent

As you get closer to Lighthouse Rock and as you begin to ascend up the trail, the trail gets much narrower. It wasn’t crowded on the day of my visit, but I can only imagine how challenging this portion of the trail is when there are a lot of people on it. There are a couple of places to rest on your way up to Lighthouse Rock where you get a view of the canyon floor below you.

When you reach Lighthouse Rock, you’ll be directly in front of the rock and as it was around 11 AM when I got there, it was a backlit and not ideal for pictures. So, went around to the left of the rock and then came back and went around to the right of the rock. I’d recommend doing this as it gives you a much better perspective of the rock formation. As you walk around each side of the rock, be prepared as there are no marked trails.

I decided to have a little snack after getting some great pictures of lighthouse rock and before heading back to the parking lot. As more and more people came to the rock, I began to act as a docent, giving them tips on where to go and get pictures of this impressive rock formation. I think I found a new career calling!

*Picture:* View of the canyon floor below

*Picture:* Initial view of Lighthouse Rock, with the sun behind the top, causing the photo to be backlit

*Picture:* View of Lighthouse Rock from the left side

*Picture:* View of Lighthouse Rock from the right side

Refueled and recharged after a quick snack, I zipped back to the parking lot with a brisk pace, eager to uncover more adventures. I passed several hikers on the way to Lighthouse Rock, including one couple that had just started their trek, and were already breathing heavily and panting. Needless to say, it became evident why so many cautionary signs. All I kept thinking was of my time on Mt. Kilimanjaro and the guides saying “pole, pole,” in Swahili or “slowly, slowly” – remember this is not a race. Lighthouse Trail was a great way to kick off my visit to Palo Duro Canyon State Park!

Pictures: The Canyon as I hiked back to the Lighthouse Trailhead and Parking Lot

*Picture:* Palo Duro Canyon from the canyon floor

Rock Garden

As you exit the Lighthouse Trail parking lot, Park Road splits and becomes a large loop. You can go in either direction and I decided to go left and head to Rock Garden Trail. This 2.4-mile one-way trail takes you through an ancient landslide up to the canyon rim, with an elevation change of 600 feet and it is rated difficult. There are several areas to pull off and park here, but no formal parking lot. This trailhead had a thermometer as well and the day was getting warmer – it was now 81 degrees. Time to hydrate!

I decided not to hike this entire trail as I knew I had a major hike and climb in 2 days and I wanted to save my legs and strength for that hike. As I looked up the side of the canyon, there seemed to be some cool and interesting rocks and boulders, so I decided to climb up a portion of the trail. I ended up hiking about 1/2 mile, which gave me some incredible views of the valley below as well as seeing some cool rocks and boulders.

After Rock Garden Trail, the road begins to loop back around towards the entrance. There are several places to park and at one I came across an interesting historical sign about the Battle of Palo Duro Canyon, one of the most significant battles of the 1874-75 Indian Campaign.

Pictures: Rock Garden Trailhead | Trail Thermometer – the temperature is now 81 degrees!

Pictures: Rock Garden Trail

*Picture:* The canyon below from Rock Garden Trail

Pictures: From Rock Garden Trail | Rock Garden Selfie

*Picture:* Historical Marker for the Battle of Palo Duro Canyon

The Big Cave

After coming around the bend and heading back towards the entrance, you’ll come to the Big Cave. Although this is on the park map and one of the Points of Interest, it is not well marked, nor is the trail to the cave. There is a picnic table by the side of the road, which is the best indicator that you are in the right place, and you park along the side of the road. It’s a relatively short hike up to the cave and due to the red clay soil, it can be a bit of a challenge – slippery – as you hike up into the cave. At first, I went up the left side of the cave but realized this was not really a viable path to the cave entrance. I end up hiking straight up into the cave. There is a little bit of a boulder scramble, and it looks much worse than it really is. Once in the cave, I was so happy I persevered and would recommend this as a stop.

Pictures: Going up the left side of the cave | Looking down from the left side of the cave

Pictures: Looking into the Big Cave | Initial view out of the Big Cave

*Picture:* Looking out from the Big Cave

*Picture:* The side of the Big Cave entrance

After the Big Cave, I continued along Park Road on the floor of the canyon stopping at the Lone Star Interpretive Theater, the Old West Stables, and the Trading Post for more views of the canyon before I headed back up to the Visitor Center and for the last hike of my day.

Pictures: View of Palo Duro Canyon | One of the many informational signs

*Picture:* Final view of the canyon from the canyon floor before I headed back to the Visitor Center

CCC Trail

Embarking from the Visitor Center, the CCC Trail stretches 1.4 miles one-way, with a descent of 500 feet, earning its difficult rating. The journey takes you across four historical CCC bridges and through four distinct geologic layers, from the canyon rim to the floor below. Despite its challenging label, I didn’t find the trail overly strenuous. Having already explored the canyon floor, I decided to forego the final descent but covered a mile of the 1.4-mile trail. With a massive hike looming in two days, I wanted to conserve energy and focus on preserving my legs.

Completing the 2-mile out-and-back hike in a brisk hour, I highly recommend this trail if time allows. It treats you to some of the most breathtaking views of the canyon, offering unique perspectives of Park Road winding its way down to the canyon floor. Don’t forget to explore the various viewpoints along the trail; they might not be directly on the path, but they offer unparalleled glimpses of the canyon’s beauty.

Pictures: The view at the top of the CCC Trail

*Picture:* Looking back at the beginning of the CCC Trail and one of the geological layers

Pictures: The first of four CCC Bridges that you’ll cross

*Picture:* View Point just off the trail

Pictures: View of the Canyon as you hike down

*Picture:* Amazing view of Palo Duro Canyon

Pictures: Park Road winding down to the Canyon floor

Pictures: Trail Marker | Cool tree on the edge of the canyon

*Picture:* Where I turned around on the CCC Trail, just before the final descent to the canyon floor

So, gear up for an unforgettable adventure at Palo Duro Canyon State Park! Dive into a multi-day expedition, setting up camp right in the heart of this natural wonderland. Imagine waking up to the breathtaking beauty each morning, ready to conquer a different trail each day. Trust me, it’s not just a trip; it’s a journey that promises to etch a lifetime of vivid memories into your soul. Don’t miss out—seize the opportunity for an immersive experience that will linger in your heart forever!

Date of Visit: 15 November 2023

Lake Murray State Park | Oklahoma

By Stephen

On January 25, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | best state parks list

As I headed westward from Louisiana to San Diego, I stopped at Lake Murray State Park in Ardmore, Oklahoma. I went via Dallas, Texas, and didn’t even recognize the city I used to live in. From the explosive growth came a concrete jungle with highway interchanges as tall as skyscrapers and strip malls covering every inch of land from Dallas to to Denton – some 40 miles. Lake Murray State Park is located about 1/2 way between Dallas, Texas, and Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, just off Interstate 35 and about 10 minutes from the center of Ardmore, Oklahoma.

*Picture:* Northern Park Entrance at US-70 and Route 77S

About the Park

Named after Oklahoma Gov. William “Alfalfa Bill” Murray, Lake Murray State Park comprises a 12,496-acre recreational area and a 5,728-acre, man-made lake created by the damming of the Fourche Maline and Anadarche creeks. Lake Murray’s crystal-clear spring-fed waters and 150 miles of shoreline welcome a variety of outdoor recreation opportunities including hiking, biking, boating, fishing, and camping. There is a $10 fee per day to park anywhere in the park that you pay through an app or you can pay cash at the park office. You’ll see signs at every parking lot, but only need to pay once per day.

Lake Murray State Park is the first and largest state park in Oklahoma and was constructed during the era of Pres. Franklin Roosevelt’s New Deal and part of several New Deal Agencies including the Civilian Conservation Corp or CCC, which I have written about in my past blogs about other state parks; and the Works Progress Administration or WPA. The solons envisioned the park as a relatively cheap recreational environment for the citizens of Oklahoma (I beg to differ with a $10 parking fee). Two main group camps were created, along with a “Negro” camp. Lake Murray State Park became the only state park built by the National Park Service to provide permanent camping facilities for black youth.

Staying at the park is easy with your choice between RV and tent campgrounds, 56 cabins dotted throughout beautiful Lake Murray State Park, and The Lake Murray Lodge with 32 rooms. The Lodge has a restaurant, an outdoor pool, a splash pad area, and a miniature golf course.

Pictures: Northern Park Map | Southern Park Map

Top 5 Activities at Lake Murray State Park

Lake Murray State Park is definitely a destination for boating and water activities, as well as camping. My impression was that it’s more of a “resort” and not the woodsy, outdoors, and rustic parks that I personally prefer to visit. This particular list of activities is ranked in what I feel are the common uses for the park.

Boating and Water Activities: Lake Murray is a large reservoir, and visitors can enjoy boating, fishing, swimming, and other water activities. The park has boat ramps, a marina, and designated swimming areas.
Camping: For those looking to extend their stay, Lake Murray State Park offers camping facilities. Whether you prefer tent camping or RV camping, there are options available within the park.
Golfing: Lake Murray State Park features an 18-hole golf course known as the Lake Murray State Park Golf Course. Golf enthusiasts can enjoy a round of golf surrounded by the park’s picturesque scenery.
Visit the Tucker Tower Nature Center: Tucker Tower is a historic structure located within the park that now serves as a nature center. It was originally designed to be a summer home for the governors of Oklahoma and today it is the home of the Nature Center and providing educational exhibits about the area’s natural history and offering panoramic views of Lake Murray.
Hiking and Nature Trails: Explore the natural beauty of the park by taking advantage of its hiking and nature trails, which span over 30 miles in total. These trails offer a chance to see local wildlife and enjoy scenic views of the lake and surrounding landscapes.

Let the Driving Tour Begin!

I spoke with the receptionist at my hotel in Ardmore and she gave me some good recommendations on the sights to see which included the Fishing Pier and Tucker Tower, but added that Tucker Tower was currently closed for repairs. After breakfast, I headed out to the park, entering from the north entrance by the Lake Country Store, then taking Route 77S, the scenic highway around the park and lake. I did find it odd that the speed limit on 77S is 45 mph, which I thought was fast and not conducive to enjoying your drive around the park.

Before I continue, I wanted to give you some background and context on my visit. I felt as if Lake Murray State Park is best explored if you are staying there for a couple of days, which I did not do. I also think having access to a boat is key to fully enjoying the park, which I did not have. I personally love hiking, and to be frank, outside of my jaunt to Buzzards Roost, I didn’t find the trails very interesting. I also think that because my visit was in November, there wasn’t a lot open at the park and it lacked energy from having people around. So hopefully that will help if you are looking to visit the park.

With that said, I first stopped at the Pecan Grove Picnic Area, and yes, you have to pay to park here. It is a typical picnic area and there is a trail that you can take back north to the Lake Country Store and along the lake.

Pictures: Pecan Grove Picnic Area

Pictures: The trail at Pecan Grove Picnic area

Next up was the North Boat Ramp, where you get your first view of the lake. I had to laugh as I pulled into the parking area and saw a parking enforcement officer in his car, which I certainly didn’t expect to see, especially on a quiet Monday. So I guess they take their parking fee seriously.

As I continued south, Dukes Forest Campground was next, but it was closed for the season. Shortly after this, there is a small parking area and the Johnson Memorial Bridge, an arched bridge named in honor of E.J. Johnson, project superintendent for the CCC work projects here at Lake Murray.

Pictures: Memorial Bridge | Large Boulder by the Bridge | Plaque about the Bridge

Next, I took Gatehouse Road towards the lake, which will take you to several camping areas and sights – Elephant Rock Camp, Cedar Point Camp, and Tipp’s Point Boar Launch. Gatehouse Road also dead ends into a parking lot with a view of the lake. As I drove through this area, I saw the only wildlife on my tour, some deer.

Pictures: Lake Murray from Elephant Rock Campground

The Lake Murray Lodge

Lodge Road, the western park entrance, is next on the tour. At the intersection of Route 77S and Lodge Road is one of the Park Offices, which to my surprise was closed. As you drive towards the lake, you’ll first pass some of the park’s cabins and then you’ll arrive at The Lake Murray Lodge – home to an outdoor pool, miniature golf, and a water sports rental center. There are also floating cabins nearby. As you leave the area, you’ll pass the Historic Water Tower, vital to the park’s cabins and lodge during their initial years of operation.

Pictures: One of the Cabins | The Lodge’s Outdoor Pool

Pictures: Miniature Golf Course | Water Sports Rental Center

Pictures: Lake Murray Lodge

Pictures: The Historic Water Tower

Some of the Water Activities

The Fishing Pier, recommended by the hotel receptionist, is right after the Lodge Area. For the record and as I know it, a pier is built out into the water, while a bridge crosses the water from shore to shore. Sorry State of Oklahoma, this is a bridge and not a pier. I walked across the “pier” as I wanted to hike some of the trails in the park, only to find a yellow stake in the ground, a trail guide of sorts, that was hardly legible and written with a Sharpie. Really?!

I ended up hiking about 1/4 mile and as I was unsure where the trail went, I turned back and went up another trail along the water’s edge. From here I got a nice view of the “pier” and the cove. This trail wasn’t well marked, so I turned around and headed back to my car. On my way, I ran into a woman with a strong accent, either Eastern European or German, walking her dogs. She stopped me to see if I knew about the trails and where this trail went. I told her that the Park Office was closed and I wasn’t able to get a trail map. With that she pulled out the maps she got from the Park Office – they were detailed topographic maps, that were so small you needed a magnifying glass to read, and so detailed you needed a PhD in Rocket Science to decipher them. I think the State needs to hire me as a Park Consultant.

Pictures: Sign at the Parking Lot | The Fishing “Pier”

Pictures: Trail Guide? | View of the Cove and Lake

The Marina

Lake Murray Marina currently features 352 boat slips which should not be a surprise as boating is probably the number one feature of the park. The marina is accessible from Boat Dock Road and a portion of it is accessible from Buzzards Roost. For those wanting to just enjoy the water, there is the Lake Murray Marina Beach. From the marina, you also get a direct view of Tucker Tower Nature Center. This happened to be my only view of the infamous Tower as the road to the tower was closed on the day of my visit.

Pictures: The Marina

Pictures: My only view of Tucker Tower | The Entrance to Tucker Tower Nature Center

*Picture:* Tucker Tower Nature Center with the Marina in the background

The Best for Last

Buzzards Roost Road ends on the south side of the Marina. Along this road, you’ll see one of the original CCC Picnic Pavillions, constructed of large timbers and native stones. Next to the Buzzards Roost Campground, there is a small parking lot and the remnants of a cabin or building. To the right of the building is a set of stone stairs that will take you up to the Roost. Once on top, you can hike to either the left or right. I went in both directions and eventually found openings in the rocks where I had the most incredible and magnificent views of the lake and surrounding area. You can tell hiking, especially up and through rocks, is my jam!

Pictures: CCC Picnic Pavillion

Pictures: Building Remnants

Pictures: Some of the Stairs to the Roost

Pictures: Trail along the Roost | Selfie on the Roost

Pictures: Views from the Roost

I finished my tour with a stop to get a view of the lake from a higher elevation, then a stop at Rock Tower. Overall it was a nice and interesting park that I would probably visit if I lived in the area, but I certainly wouldn’t list it as a destination park or a park I would make a special trip to.

Pictures: Lake Murray | Rock Tower

Date of Visit: 14 November 2023

Driskill Mountain | Louisiana (#26)

By Stephen

On January 24, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | high pointing

Driskill Mountain in Louisiana holds the distinction of being the state’s highest natural summit, standing at 535 feet above sea level, ranking at #48 in State High Points and it was my 26th High Point. Located in the northern part of the state within the Kisatchie National Forest, it’s about 60 miles and just over an hour east of Shreveport and just 18 miles south of Interstate 20. It was named after James Christopher Driskill, originally from Georgia, who owned the land in the late 19th century. He purchased the land on December 30, 1859 for about $5.15 per acre and in 1883 he sold two acres of land to the trustees of the Mt. Zion Presbyterian Church, where the trailhead and Driskill Memorial Cemetery are located.

It also sits in Bienville Parish (a parish is analogous to counties in other states), which is famous for being where Bonnie & Clyde were shot to death by officers in an ambush near Sailes, Louisiana. The Bonnie & Clyde Ambush Museum is 8 miles north of the site in Gibsland.

Pictures: Mt. Zion Presbyterian Church | Church Sign on Rte. 507 | Driskill Memorial Cemetery

Pictures: Bonnie & Clyde Memorial at Ambush Site | Replica of Car at the B&C Ambush Museum

The Things You Learn

From Mount Magazine State Park, I drove back roads and I decided to spend the night in El Dorado, Arkansas. As I got closer to El Dorado, I was surprised at the number of chemical manufacturing and oil processing plants I saw. I later found out that during World War II, El Dorado became a center of the chemical industry, which still plays a part in the economy, as do oil and timber. Murphy USA, #322 in the Fortune 500 list, is headquartered here and you may recall seeing their gas stations at your local Walmart. Other large employers and manufacturers include LANXESS – a manufacturer of flame retardants; Nexans AmerCable – a manufacturer of electrical steel cable; and Canfor Southern Pine – a producer of lumber and laminate beams. The place certainly smelled of chemicals and I knew something was up when I looked at hotels and saw The Haywood El Dorado, which is part of the Tapestry Collection by Hilton. Not the type of hotel you’d expect in such a small town.

Pictures: Chemical Manufacturing Plant | Refinery | Both in the El Dorado area

Logging, Timber and Poverty

Did you know that forests cover 50% of Louisiana’s land area? This fact, combined with the numerous pine trees I saw, helped explain why there were so many logging and timber trucks. While driving one of the back roads, I noticed southbound logging trucks passing me, while northbound lumber trucks and empty logging trucks were heading in my direction. Later on, I discovered that a sawmill was located south of my location, and I also learned that a state-of-the-art sawmill worth $240 million had opened in Bienville Parish in 2023.

However, with all the industry and money being poured into the area, I was shocked at the disrepair of the roads. And what shocked me even more was the level of poverty in the area. I’ve seen my share of poverty around the world, but this was an eye-opener. As I reflect on both my experience in El Dorado, Arkansas, and here in Louisiana, I think it is important that as Americans we venture out and see the real United States. I think it will give us a better understanding and a better appreciation of the country.

Pictures: Timber and Lumber Industries in NW Louisiana

On to the High Point!

I will have to say for private land, this trail is well marked. The trailhead is located at the Mt. Zion Presbyterian Church and the trail is about 2 miles out and back with very little elevation change. I personally clocked it at 1.82 miles and completed the hike in 45 minutes. If you read my post about Mount Magazine, you know it is hunting season and the sign at the trailhead caught my attention “Use Caution During Active Hunting Season” and “Consider Wearing Hunter Orange or Blaze Pink.” On my drive to the church, I also saw many active processing sites for deer and hogs. I didn’t have either of those colors, but I did have my bright yellow REI Rain Jacket and took the time to put that on. Not a huge delay in this trek, but I feel a smart decision.

I was thankful that it was a cool and overcast day. I read a post on AllTrails that mentioned it being 80° and humid two weeks earlier. If that were the case, I’d be dying of heat in this jacket, but as it stands, I actually needed the jacket. Interesting side note, the person who wrote about the humidity, also commented on how they got lost. Based on my experience, they must have taken the False Mountain trail, which I have read is not well marked.

From the trailhead, you first go around a gate, then continue up the dirt road. Eventually, the road veers to the right and the trail continues straight where you will see a “Designated Trail” sign. As you hike on the trail, you will continue to see “Designated Trail” signs and arrows to keep you on the correct trail.

Pictures: Trailhead at Mt. Zion Presbyterian Church | Gate at the beginning of the hike

Pictures: From the road, take this trail | One of the “Designated Trail” Markers | One of the Trail Arrows

This trail is courtesy of Melba Driskell-Krejsa, a great-granddaughter of James Christopher Driskill as noted on a trail sign. Eventually, the trail splits, and if you want a little more of a challenge, take the fork towards False Mountain. The south peak of Driskill Mountain has been dubbed False Mountain. I decided to take the easier trail to the left, but I can’t imagine that the False Trail is challenging at an elevation of 539 feet. Finally, after the last bend and last trail arrow, there is a small incline to the summit area.

Pictures: Melba Driskell-Krejsa Trail Sign | Trail junction to False Mountain

Pictures: Last Arrow on the Trail | Small incline to the Summit area

A summit with a view – well kinda

Thanks to the efforts of Logan Blackwell Troop 255 and the support of J-Bar Properties and Weyerhaeuser, the summit is available to the public and well-maintained. At the top, you will find a bench and a sign. It is worth noting that the founder of the Highpointers Club, Jack Longacre, had his ashes scattered here in 2003. Additionally, a Register is kept in the gun ammo box placed near the sign. When I signed the register, I noticed that someone else had reached the summit of Driskill earlier in the day.

*Picture:* Summit Sign with Registry in the gun ammo box on the left

Pictures: Summit Area | Summit Selfie

A stone’s throw from the summit sign is the Overlook of Jordan Mountain. There are a couple of benches at the Overlook that were donated by the Highpointers Foundation. You can see Jordan Mountain off in the distance, which looks higher than Driskill Mountain but it is only 490 feet high.

Pictures: Jordan Mountain Overlook area | Highpointers Foundation Bench

On the backside of the summit is a trail with both Blue and Orange blazes. I presume these may be for the False Summit Trail, but I don’t know for sure. A few feet into the trail is a marker, which is not the high point survey marker, but a longitude and latitude maker.

Pictures: Trail on the backside of the summit | Longitude and Latitude Marker

It was a peaceful day, but strangely quiet. I had a feeling that someone was watching me and it reminded me of a scene from the movie Deliverance. I’m glad it’s just a normal Monday and not Friday the 13th, otherwise, I would be more worried. So I can now say that I checked this off my list of State High Points and if it were not for that goal, I probably wouldn’t have visited Driskill Mountain.

Anyway, I’m excited to continue my journey westwards and visit more state parks, climb more high points, and eventually reach San Diego in time for Thanksgiving. Happy hiking!

Date of Visit: 13th November 2023.

Mount Magazine State Park | Arkansas

By Stephen

On January 23, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | best state parks list

Since Mount Magazine and Signal Hill (the highest natural point in Arkansas) are in Mount Magazine State Park (on my list as the Best State Park in Arkansas) I decided to include both places in one blog post.

Here is a link to the post: Mount Magazine | Arkansas (#25) and Mount Magazine State Park.

Date of Visit: 12 November 2023

Mount Magazine | Arkansas (#25) and Mount Magazine State Park

By Stephen

On January 23, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | high pointing

Since Mount Magazine/Signal Hill is in Mount Magazine State Park, on my list as the Best State Park in Arkansas, I decided to include both places in one blog post. Mount Magazine State Park is about 2 hours west/northwest of Little Rock, Arkansas, about 1 hour 15 minutes east of Fort Smith, Arkansas, and a little over 2 hours south of Bentonville, Arkansas – home of Walmart for you trivia buffs.

*Picture:* Mount Magazine State Park Entrance sign across from the Petit Jean Valley Overlook

Is it Mount Magazine or Signal Hill?

At an elevation of 2,753 feet, Mount Magazine, situated in the Ouachita Mountains of Arkansas, proudly claims the title of the state’s highest point. It ranks as #34 in State High Points and was my 25th State High Point. So, I am about 50% of the way to becoming a High Pointer! Note: Since the District of Columbia (I know it’s not a state) is included in my list, there are 51 High Points to summit.

Is it Mount Magazine or Signal Hill? After doing a bit of research – here is the answer that will hopefully clear the air. Mount Magazine is a flat-topped plateau with a sandstone cap rimmed by precipitous rock cliffs. There are two peaks situated atop the plateau, Signal Hill, which is the tallest point in Arkansas, and Mossback Ridge which reaches 2,700 feet. So, the highest point in Arkansas is Signal Hill on Mount Magazine.

About Mount Magazine State Park

Mount Magazine State Park, within the Ozark-St. Francis National Forests spans 2234 acres and includes over 14 miles of trails that connect to many of the trails in the Ozark Forest. Mount Magazine is called an “Island in the Sky” due to its isolated dominance over the surrounding landscape. Many trails originated as game trails followed by Native American hunters. After the Civil War settlers farmed
much of the plateau-like summit and many of the paths became wagon roads.

It is a destination for outdoor sports and extreme adventures with mountain biking, horseback riding, backpacking, rock climbing, and ATV riding. Mount Magazine is the state park system’s most dramatic location for technical rock climbing, and it’s one of only two parks to offer hang-gliding launch areas. In addition to camping and cabins, The Lodge at Mount Magazine features 60 guest rooms, the Skycrest Restaurant, a conference center, a business center, a heated indoor swimming pool, a fitness center, and a game room. There is also no entrance or parking fee, making it accessible for all.

Let the exploring begin!

As you rise from the valley below on Arkansas 309 and enter Mount Magazine State Park, your first stop needs to be the Petit Jean Valley Overlook. The views from here are incredible and will whet your appetite for what is in store as you continue up and into the park. The entrance sign is across the street from The Overlook – a good place for a photo.

Pictures: Views from Petit Jean Valley Overlook | Blue Mountain Lake in the distance

My next stop, which should be no surprise, was the visitor center, which features interactive exhibits, a meeting room (available for rent), a wildlife viewing area, a wildflower and butterfly garden, vending, a gift shop, and the park offices. I chatted with a ranger and asked what the must-see sights were and what wildlife I should be aware of. I was happy to hear there weren’t any recent bear sightings, but if there were, it would be in Bear Hollow. Isn’t that ironic? I’d recommend getting a map here as the cell service is spotty on the mountain.

Pictures: Visitor Center | Park Map

First Recommendation: A Driving Tour

It was recommended that I start with a drive on the Cameron Bluff Overlook Drive. The drive is one-way and there are 7 parking areas along the way that offer stunning views of the Arkansas River, the Ozark Plateau, and the towns below.

Pictures: Views from the first parking area

Pictures: Mountain Top Selfie | View from the first parking area

From the first parking lot, it is a hop, skip, and jump to the second parking area, where the Cameron Bluff Amphitheater is located. The Amphitheater had gone into a bad state of repair in the 1970s as visitors stopped coming to Mount Magazine after a fire destroyed the lodge in 1971. However, after an extensive renovation project, the historic amphitheater has re-opened for concerts, weddings, private events or just enjoying the magnificent views.

Pictures: The Amphitheater | View from the Amphitheater

Shortly after The Amphitheater, there is another parking area that offers similar views, then as you round the bluff, there is a short dirt road and parking lot. I would definitely recommend parking here and walking out to the cliffs to watch the hawks above and for a panoramic view. I would caution, as with all the places I hiked in the park, that no fences or safety railings are along the cliffs.

Pictures: View looking down from the cliff | Hawk sighting

The Lodge and Cabins

A visit to Mountain Magazine isn’t complete without a visit to The Lodge. From the Hearth Lobby and the Terrace, you are treated to stunning views of the Petit Jean River Valley. The modern, yet rustic lodge offers 60 guest rooms and has The Skycrest Restaurant, where you can enjoy their Southern cuisine. There is also a cool 3-dimensional model of the area in the lobby. The park also has 13 mountain cabins stretching along the bluff and ranging from 873 square feet to 1,669 square feet. I could see coming back and staying at The Lodge or if I came with a group, renting out some of the cabins.

Pictures: The Lodge | Some of the Cabins

Pictures: The Entrance | The Hearth Lobby

Pictures: The Terrace | View of the Petit Jean River Valley from the terrace

Pictures: The 3-dimensional model of the area

What about the Summit?

There are a couple of trails to Signal Hill and I decided to take the most common, the Signal Hill Trail. To reach the trailhead, you can either park at The Lodge and walk down Lodge Drive, about 2/10 of a mile from the front door. Or you can park near the Hang Glider launch, where I did, and hike 1/10 of a mile up the bike path and across Lodge Drive to the trailhead. The Signal Hill Trail is a 1.4 mile loop with just 259 feet in elevation change. It was a short hike that took me 40 minutes, even with taking time for pictures and to chat with a couple on the summit. As you hike around the park, you’ll also see that there are several Bulletin Boards with detailed information about the trails and area.

The day could not have been nicer and I ended up putting on shorts, which I am so happy I did. It was an easy trail to follow, even with it being covered in leaves, as it was well-worn with all the traffic and people wanting to visit the High Point. I was also surprised at how few people were there, considering the beautiful weather and it being a Sunday.

Pictures: Hang Glider Launch Area | View from the Hang Glider Launch

Pictures: Signal Hill Trail Bulletin Board | Signal Hill Trailhead | Signal Hill Trail looking towards Lodge Dr.

As I have learned with many summits, there isn’t a view from this summit. The summit has a sign, a Highpointers Club mailbox with a Summit Register, and a survey marker. I did meet a nice couple and they inquired why taking a picture of the survey marker. So, chatty Cathy here gave them the rundown on the Highpointers club, and what I was doing. I told them about this blog and also about visiting the Best State Park in each State.

Pictures: Summit Sign | Survey Marker

Pictures: Me on the Summit | Highpointers Club Mailbox

Views and More Views

With summit #25 under my belt, I headed back to the Visitor Center and the North Rim Trailhead. The ranger recommended this trail as well and suggested just going out about a mile to Dill Point and then back. It ended up being a 1.7-mile round-trip hike that I did in about 45 minutes.

There are modest elevation changes on the trail and you cross two different creeks. I was surprised at the lack of trail blazes, but will say it was easy to follow the trail. School Creek is the first creek you cross, about 2/10 miles into the hike. The creek was pretty dry and easy to navigate. The second creek, Dill Creek, about 1/2 miles into the hike, was even drier than School Creek.

Just before Dill Point, there is a short trail to another point. Since it didn’t have a name (at least I didn’t find a name), I decided to call it Hollywood Point. (One of my nicknames is Hollywood 😎) Hiking to Dill Point is definitely worth it and if you are as lucky as I was, there will be few people on the trail or at the point. I guess that is one of the benefits of hiking in the fall and hiking some distance. Other benefits include: the great and unobstructed views without leaves on the trees, there were no bugs, and most importantly, there were no cobwebs across the trails. I hate running into cobwebs!

Pictures: School Creek | Dill Creek

Saving the Best for Last

For my last hike, I parked at the Benefield Picnic area, which is very close to the Petit Jean Valley Overlook, my first stop. From here, you can hike the Benefield West Loop, the Benefield East Loop, and Bear Hollow Trail. I remember the Ranger telling me that if I was going to see a bear, it was going to be here, so I took along my bear spray.

Pictures: Benefield Picnic Area | Trailheads at the parking lot

This was a relatively short hike (less than a mile), and so worth it. From the parking lot, you take the trail that leads to the Benefield Trails and the Bear Hollow Trail. Soon the trail splits and I went in the direction of the Benefield West Loop. It splits again and I then took the Bear Hollow Trail until that splits, then took Bear Hollow to the right. This brings you to Inspiration Point, and then Sunrise Rock, both of which offer incredible views. Near Inspiration Point, I did run into a group of younger people, but they were soon on their way down the Bear Hollow Trail and I had the place to myself. I took a moment, and just sat for a bit to take in the beauty around me and get some inspiration. Sunrise Rock was a short distance from Inspiration Point, where I took on last view of the scenic valley below. As you continue around the loop, you’ll come to another intersection, you can continue to the left and onto Benefield East Loop, but this will take you down to the Petit Jean Valley Overlook or you can go to the right and back up the hill to the parking lot, which I did.

Pictures: The start of the trails | First Guide Sign – I took the West Loop | Second Guide Sign – I took Bear Hollow Trail

Pictures: Looking down from Inspiration Point | View from Inspiration Point

*Picture:* Getting some Inspiration from Inspiration Point

Pictures: Sunrise Rock | Last Guide Sign on the Loop where the East Loop splits

Final Comments about the Park

Mount Magazine State Park does not allow hunting and all animals are protected. This was especially comforting as it was deer hunting season and I heard my share of gunshots in the distance. Also, on my way to the park, I saw a couple of guys on ATVs, wearing orange vests and with guns strapped to their backs. And at one restaurant and bar, I saw a dead deer in the back of a pickup truck. It’s important to know about hunting seasons and dress in bright colors if you are in an area that allows hunting.

As for wildlife in the park, I saw several hawks and a ton of squirrels. I guess the squirrels got the memo that it was a safe place and they wouldn’t end up as a trophy at the Arkansas Big Squirrel Challenge – an annual event where hunters try to bag the biggest squirrel in several categories, like Adult Fox Squirrels. Nor would they end up as the key ingredient at The World Championship Squirrel Cook-Off in Springdale. By the way, if you aren’t busy on September 7th, 2024, and you want to try some squirrel, you might want to check out the cook-off! Some of last years entries included Confit of Squirrel and Acorn Squash Ravioli with Garlic Cream Sauce, Squirrel “Chicken and Waffles”, Squirrel Khao Soi (Thai Coconut Soup with Squirrel). Bet you didn’t think squirrel could be so gourmet!

On that fun culinary note – my journey continues south to Louisiana. Maybe I’ll find a Gator Cook-Off?

Date of Visit: 12 November 2023

Taum Sauk Mountain | Missouri (#24)

By Stephen

On January 21, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | high pointing

About Taum Sauk Mountain

Taum Sauk Mountain, located in the St. Francois Mountains of the Missouri Ozarks, is the highest peak in the state. It stands at an elevation of 1,772 feet (540 meters), ranks #41 in State High Points, and was my 24th State High Point. I sent a picture of me at the “summit” to my friend Pam, who is originally from Joplin, Missouri, and she replied “Fantastic!”, then followed by “Had no idea MO had a high point! 🤣” Yeah, to be honest, it isn’t much of a high point, but it’s a park, outdoors, and an interesting history.

The mountain is part of the Taum Sauk Mountain State Park, which encompasses 7500 acres including rugged terrain, dense forests, and the iconic Mina Sauk Falls, Missouri’s tallest waterfall. The mountain and park are located about 100 miles or 1 hr. 45 minutes south of St. Louis. Hiking trails, including the Taum Sauk Section of the Ozark Trail, wind through the rugged landscape, providing opportunities for outdoor activities such as backpacking and camping. The mountain is part of the Taum Sauk section of the Mark Twain National Forest, ensuring its preservation and accessibility for future generations.

Pictures: Park Entrance | Trail Map – Note: The High Point is in the upper right corner

Missouri’s Romeo & Juliet

I came across some fascinating information and theories while researching Taum Sauk Mountain and the origin of its name. Taum Sauk is purportedly named after a Pianskeshaw chief named Sauk-Ton-Qua, and is associated with his family tale, which is often described as Missouri’s version of Romeo and Juliet. But instead of star-crossed lovers from dueling families, the Indian legend features star-crossed lovers from warring tribes. Sauk-Ton-Qua’s daughter, Mina Sauk, fell in love with a warrior from a hostile tribe. When the chief killed his daughter’s lover by throwing him off of a nearby cliff, Mina followed him over the edge. This incurred the wrath of the mythical Storm King, summoning a hurricane to wipe out Sauk-Ton-Qua’s entire tribe. A lightning bolt struck the ground and caused a waterfall to appear, wiping away the blood of the lovers. Today that falls are known as Mina Sauk Falls.

This Native American legend was retold many times among settlers in the region, but the name Sauk-Ton-Qua was difficult for some of the newcomers to pronounce. Therefore, they decided to alter the chief’s name from Sauk-Ton-Qua to ‘Taum Sauk’ instead.

My Visit to Taum Sauk Mountain:

After leaving St. Louis and heading south, I followed Missouri 21 until I reached Missouri Highway CC. This road is paved until the Lookout Tower, with the last 8/10 of a mile being a dirt road to the trailhead parking lot. Once on the dirt road, you’ll pass by The Overlook on your right, which is the only real viewpoint from the mountain. Shortly after The Overlook, you’ll reach a relatively small parking lot.

Pictures: The last 8/10 of a mile – a dirt road | The Overlook

I got to the parking lot in the late afternoon and knowing that it was a short distance to the summit, and later much to my dismay, I didn’t prepare for a long hike. The hike to the high point is an exhausting 0.4 miles out and back. lol All joking aside, what I really liked about this high point was that it was super easy to get to because of the paved path leading up to it. As I was leaving the area, I bumped into a small group and one of the guys was in a wheelchair. I know that not all high points can be made wheelchair accessible, but it was pretty cool that this one was. There isn’t much at the summit area – a marker, a bench and box with a sign-in log book.

Pictures: Parking Lot Area | Parking Lot

Pictures: Trailhead | Paved Path to the High Point

Pictures: High Point Marker | Sign-In Log Book | Summit Selfie

My Disappointment

I decided to hike to Mina Sauk Falls – the trail is just off the path to the High Point. But the trail was rocky, and I wasn’t wearing the right footwear, which made it challenging to move quickly. I wanted to get to the falls fast because it was getting late and the temperature was dropping. Unfortunately, I had no supplies, including water, snacks, and a headlamp. After hiking about a quarter of the way, I decided to turn back and return to the car. Even though I passed several groups of people who were headed to the falls, I felt it was best not to push it. I hope to come back again and spend more time at the park. Maybe when I visit Lake of the Ozarks State Park, which is on my list as the Best State Park in Missouri and about a 3.5-hour drive away, I’ll make the journey back here. I am sure it’ll be worth the trip if I’m in the state.

*Picture:* Mina Sauk Falls – my goal for the next visit to Taum Sauk Mountain State Park

On the way out, I decided to stop at the Lookout Tower. If you have read any of my previous posts, you know that I have passed on going up to the top of several of these towers due to my fear of heights. So, with renewed energy, I decided to conquer my fears, or not! I got up a 1/4 of the way and turned back. My second disappointment for the day – oh well. Maybe one of these days, I’ll conquer that fear!

Pictures: Trailhead to Mina Sauk Falls | Trail to Mina Sauk Falls

Date of Visit: 11 November 2023

Cape Henlopen State Park | Delaware

By Stephen

On January 20, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | best state parks list

Cape Henlopen State Park is a fascinating park, that offers so many different experiences and is worthy of visiting on multiple days. In fact, I would suggest using Lewes, Delaware or another nearby city as a vacation hub – Cape May, New Jersey (blog post coming soon) is a short ferry ride across the bay and Assateague State Park and Assateague Island National Seashore are about an hour away. There is so much to do in the area.

A Guys Day

I specifically came to Lewes, Delaware to visit my friends Amanda and Phil. We all took the short trip to Assateague State Park and had a blast. However, on this day, Amanda had to work, so it was just Phil and I for a guy’s day out. That morning both Phil and I had a little work to finish before we headed out. I also made a little breakfast nosh, Smoked Salmon & Avocado Toast with Everything But the Bagel Seasoning. Delish! On the way to the park, we stopped by to see Amanda at the local Golf Club she bartends for a Bloody Mary. Let’s get this party started!

*Picture:* Smoked Salmon & Avocado Toast

About the Park

Cape Henlopen State Park, nestled on Delaware’s picturesque coast, offers a captivating blend of natural beauty and recreational opportunities. Spanning over 5,000 acres, this coastal gem boasts pristine beaches, rolling sand dunes, and lush maritime forests. Outdoor enthusiasts can explore a network of scenic trails, ideal for hiking and biking, while birdwatchers delight in the park’s diverse avian inhabitants.

History buffs can explore the iconic World War II observation towers that stand as silent sentinels along the shoreline. The park’s centerpiece, the historic Fort Miles, provides a fascinating glimpse into the region’s military past. Visitors can also indulge in water activities, from swimming in the Atlantic to fishing and kayaking in the park’s tidal salt marshes. With its rich ecological diversity and recreational charm, Cape Henlopen State Park beckons nature lovers and adventure seekers alike to discover the magic of Delaware’s coastal wonders.

Pictures: Park Maps were the focus of our visit, specifically the left-hand map.

Top 5 Activities

Explore the Beaches: Cape Henlopen State Park offers pristine beaches along the Atlantic Ocean. Visitors can relax on the sandy shores, swim in the refreshing waters, or engage in beachcombing and seashell collecting.
Hiking and Biking Trails: The park features an extensive network of scenic trails, including the popular Gordon’s Pond Trail and the Seaside Nature Trail. Hikers and bikers can immerse themselves in the park’s diverse landscapes, from coastal dunes to lush forests.
Visit Fort Miles: History enthusiasts can explore the historic Fort Miles, which played a crucial role in coastal defense during World War II. The fort features bunkers, observation towers, and informative exhibits, providing a fascinating glimpse into the area’s military history.
Birdwatching: Cape Henlopen is a haven for birdwatchers, offering diverse habitats for numerous bird species. Bring your binoculars and observe the variety of shorebirds, songbirds, and raptors that inhabit the park, especially during migratory seasons.
Water Activities: The park’s coastal location provides opportunities for various water activities. Fishing enthusiasts can try their luck from the fishing pier, and kayakers can explore the tidal salt marshes. The park’s natural beauty is best experienced from the water, adding an extra layer of adventure to your visit.

Reliving our Childhood

Both Phil and I grew up in an era of G.I. Joe and are both history buffs, so our first stop was Fort Miles. We had also visited Cape May, New Jersey the day before, where we initially learned about the observation towers and gun bunkers in the area. When visiting the park you have to go up into one of the Observation Towers. The observation towers have a rich history dating back to their construction during World War II when they served as lookout posts for coastal defense. These towers played a crucial role in monitoring the Delaware coast for potential enemy activity. Triangulation techniques were employed in their design, ensuring precise alignment and effective surveillance capabilities during their wartime function. Today, the observation towers are iconic landmarks, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding area.

Pictures: One of the Observation Towers | About the Observation Towers

Pictures: Spiral Staircase to the Top | Selfie on the Top of the Tower

Pictures: Views from the Observation Slots

*Picture:* View from the Observation Slots with the main gun battery

Battery 519

From the parking lot, it is a short walk to Battery 519, a 15,000-square-foot fortified underground chamber. Today, the main battery houses the Fort Miles Museum. Along the initial part of the walk, you’ll pass some of the original barracks and several of the weapons that were used to protect the fort and the coast. And of course, our inner childhood came out. . .

Pictures: The Barracks area and some of the weapons used to protect the fort.

Pictures: Boys will be Boys

As you walk up to the main bunker and Museum, you’ll see a couple of the guns used to protect the coast during WW II. The largest gun on display actually came from the USS Missouri, Mighty MO. This massive gun could shoot a 2700-pound shell over 20 miles with pinpoint accuracy. And you can see the damage such a shell can make on the thick steel of a Japanese ship during the war.

Pictures: Mighty Mo’s Big Gun | A shell and the type of damage it did to a Japanese ship

*Picture:* One of the guns used to protect the coast

Pictures: Fort Miles Museum

Pictures: Views from the Museum terrace

Beach Time

From Fort Miles, we continued our loop around the park and headed for the Senator David B. McBride Beach Bathhouse. It is a gorgeous facility with a boardwalk to the beach. I can only imagine how busy this place must be in the summer – remember our visit was at the beginning of November.

Pictures: McBride Beach Bathhouse | Boardwalk to the Beach

Pictures: Pillar on the Beach | Only the Shadows Know

Birds of Prey

Right next to the Bathhouse area, you can spot the Cape Henlopen Hawk Watch Tower. This spot used to be a military bunker, but now it’s a great place to watch different types of raptors fly by. It’s pretty neat that they keep count of all the birds they’ve seen yesterday and overall. So if you’re interested in birdwatching, this is the perfect spot!

Pictures: The Bunker beneath the Hawk Watch | The Hawk Watch Tower

Pictures: Daily and To Date Raptor Sightings | View from the Hawk Watch Tower

The Point

Next up, my favorite part of the park – The Point. The beach was so chill and beautiful! We didn’t have enough time to check the whole thing out, though. Next time, I’d love to take a longer hike out to the point. We noticed a ton of horseshoe crab shells scattered around the beach. Later, we learned that the Delaware Bay and the area off of Cape Henlopen has the world’s largest spawning population of horseshoe crabs, which are the official State Marine Animal. They look like they’re straight out of the movie Predator, pretty cool! We also got to see a couple of other native crabs that were still alive.

Pictures: A couple of the Horseshoe Crab shells

Pictures: Some of the other crabs we saw, per Google Lens – Lady Crab (r) and Ghost Crab (l)

Last Stop – The Fishing Pier

The fishing pier at Cape Henlopen State Park offers a stunning view of the Delaware Bay, with sights of the Ferry port, The Point, a lighthouse, and Cape May, New Jersey. I met several fishermen on the pier who had caught Tautog or Blackfish that day, a fish species that is popular in chowders and similar to Red Snapper. I highly recommend a visit to Cape Henlopen State Park for a great day out!

Historic Downtown Lewes

After a long day, we hit up historic downtown Lewes for a refreshing libation and snack at the Pink Pony, the bar at Bramble & Brine at The Butttery. It’s a super cute bar with hundreds of equestrienne ribbons, and definitely worth checking out when you’re in Lewes.

Pictures: Historic Lewes, Delaware

Pictures: Bramble & Brine at The Buttery | The Pink Pony Bar and Equestrienne Ribbons

Pictures: Crab au Gratin | Older Old Fashion | Yumsies Humsies

Date of Visit: 6 November 2023

John Boyd Thatcher State Park | NY

By Stephen

On January 19, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | fun finds & more

I was in the Albany, New York area visiting family, and my sister, Vicki, and I decided to do a hike before we both headed back our separate ways. On a side note, I convinced Vicki to hike Mount Greylock, the highest point in Massachusetts and the first of my State High Points, during a trip to Massachusetts to see the incredible Sona Jobarteh in concert. The two of us have hiked many places together and this hike in John Boyd Thatcher State Park – commonly known as Thatcher State Park – was quite a fun and interesting find.

Brunch First, then Hiking

Our sister Melissa and her husband Richard also made the trip up to Albany as it was sort of a mini family reunion, actually a cousins reunion. After the reunion, and before we headed out, we went to The Scene Coffee and Cocktails in Albany, New York for brunch. It’s a super cute restaurant with a patio, complete with a Gelato Cart (although it was not open when we were there) and a Champagne Vending Machine. I thought the vending machine was super cool. You ordered and paid for everything at the counter, and if you ordered champagne, they gave you a special token for the vending machine. Unfortunately, no champagne today as we were heading out for a nice hike. The brunch sandwiches and coffee were delish and I would definitely recommend The Scene if you are in the area!

Pictures: The Scene – Albany | NY

Pictures: Gelato Cart | Champagne Vending Machine

Pictures: Uber Cute Coffee

Pictures: A couple of the delish Brunch Sandwiches

Off to ‎⁨Voorheesville⁩

Thatcher Park is in Voorheesville, New York – that’s quite the name and no it’s not from a Dr. Seuss book. In the early 17th century, Dutch settlers established the colony of New Netherland, with Albany becoming a crucial trading post along the Hudson River. In 1899, Voorheesville was founded with its roots in the Albany and Susquehanna Railroad era, and it was named after Alonzo B. Voorhees, a railroad attorney. Over the years, it has evolved from a railway community to a charming village known for its historic buildings and community-oriented atmosphere.

About the Park

Thatcher State Park is a hidden gem for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. Nestled in the scenic Helderberg Escarpment, this park offers a perfect blend of outdoor activities and breathtaking views. With over 2,000 acres of lush greenery, hiking enthusiasts can explore a network of trails that wind through wooded areas and lead to panoramic overlooks. The park has a $6 per vehicle fee, but my sister has an annual Empire Pass, so it’s included with the pass.

For those who prefer a more relaxed experience, the park provides spacious picnic areas, inviting families and friends to enjoy a sunny day outdoors. The park isn’t just about hiking and picnics; it boasts an awesome playground for kids and a refreshing pool to cool off during the summer months.

One of the highlights is the impressive Indian Ladder Trail, where you can walk along the cliff’s edge and take in the stunning vistas. If you’re lucky, you might even spot some soaring birds of prey. John Boyd Thatcher State Park isn’t just a park; it’s a nature-packed playground waiting to be explored. So, whether you’re up for a challenging hike, a leisurely picnic, or simply soaking in the scenic beauty, this park has something for everyone. Get ready to escape the hustle and bustle and immerse yourself in the tranquility of Thatcher State Park!

Pictures: Park Maps – for our hike, use the map on the left as a reference

What the heck is an Escarpment?

An escarpment is a steep, often cliff-like geological formation that marks the boundary between different elevations of terrain. Typically formed by erosion or tectonic activity, an escarpment creates a distinct and abrupt change in elevation. These formations are characterized by their steep slopes and can be found in various landscapes, offering stunning panoramic views from the elevated side while creating a notable transition between high and low areas.

Sounds like a cliff, so I asked ChatGPT what the difference was: While both cliffs and escarpments involve steep slopes, the key difference lies in their scale and geological context. A cliff is a vertical or near-vertical rock face with a considerable drop, often overlooking a body of water. In contrast, an escarpment is a more extensive and generally less steep slope that separates two different elevation levels in a landscape. Escarpments are larger geological formations, often marking the boundary between higher and lower terrains, whereas cliffs are more localized and frequently associated with coastlines. So there you have it!

*Picture:* About the Helderberg Escarpment

Top 5 Hiking Activities

Thatcher Park Overlook: One of the highlights of the park is the Thatcher Park Overlook, which provides breathtaking panoramic views of the Hudson Valley and the Adirondack Mountains. It’s a popular spot for visitors to take in the scenic beauty of the surrounding landscape.
Indian Ladder Trail: This trail takes hikers through a series of picturesque rock formations, caves, and waterfalls. The trail offers a unique perspective of the park’s geology and provides opportunities to explore the natural beauty of the area.
Hailes Cave: Hailes Cave is a fascinating limestone cave located within the park. While it may not be open to the public at all times, guided tours are sometimes available, allowing visitors to explore the cave’s unique features and learn about its geological significance.
Escarpment Trail: This challenging trail runs along the Helderberg Escarpment and offers stunning views of the Hudson Valley. Hikers can enjoy the diverse terrain, including rocky cliffs and wooded areas, as they traverse this scenic trail.
Thatcher Park Visitor Center: While not a hiking destination per se, the visitor center is a great starting point for exploring the park. It provides information about the park’s history, geology, and natural features. Additionally, it offers educational exhibits and interactive displays.

Our Visit:

We started at Thatcher Park Overlook, the first item on the list above, and it certainly delivers on the beautiful panoramic view. It is interesting, but understandable, that there is a parking time limit here. They are obviously trying to discourage hikers from parking here and wanting the spots to turnover for people coming here for the panoramic views.

Pictures: Panoramic Views from the Overlook

*Picture:* View from the Overlook, looking towards where we would park and start our hike

Parking time is up, time to find a parking spot

We decided to park near the Glen Doone Pavillion, the start/end of the Escarpment Trail. As a note, there is a restroom in this parking area. First, we headed to the point, which offers views of the valley below as well as the Overlook parking area. From here, you can see in the distance the other areas the trail will take you. The Escarpment Trail is 2.4 miles long (one-way) and is predominantly flat, so a relatively easy hike.

Pictures: Views from Glen Doone – Looking Back at the Overlook Parking Area | Valley Below

As you hike the Escarpment Trail towards the Visitor Center, you’ll hike through the Overlook Parking area again. Then as you round the bend at La Grange Bush, you’ll see another point and get a view of the Visitor Center.

Picture: View from La Grange Bush looking towards the Visitor Center.

Indian Ladder Trail

About halfway along the Escarpment Trail, just past La Grange Bush, you’ll come to the Indian Ladder Trail, 0.44 miles long. There is some elevation on this trail as you first descend a flight of stairs, then back up on the other side. However, I would HIGHLY recommend taking this trail. This trail will give you a close-up view of the cliffs as well as an opportunity to hike under the cliffs. But the best part of the trail – the two waterfalls that you pass under, first Minelot Falls, and then Outlet Creek Falls.

Pictures: Trail Under the Escarpment | Trail along the Escarpment

Pictures: Minelot Falls

Pictures: Along the Indian Ladder Trail

As you ascend on the other side of the Indian Ladder Trail, you’ll come upon the Visitor Center and Thatcher Point. It’s a beautiful building with a spectacular view and a great place for events. The day we were there, they had just finished a wedding.

*Picture:* Vicki and Me along the Escarpment Trail

The Squeeze Box

When we reached the end of the Escarpment Trail, we continued a little further and came across the Squeeze Box – the entrance to the Rock Climbing area. If you can’t fit through here, you won’t be able to fit through Helm’s Crevice, the access point to the Rock Climbing area. It’s tight as you can see!!!

Pictures: The Squeeze Box | Helm’s Crevice

Back to Glen Doone

At this point, we turned around and headed back to Glen Doone and our car. However, when we got to the Visitor Center and the Indian Ladder Trail, we continued along the ridge and on the Escarpment Trail. On this part of the trail, you cross the streams that become the waterfalls on the Indian Ladder Trail. It was a fun day of hiking and I would definitely recommend a visit to John Boyd Thatcher State Park! Bring a picnic and spend the day exploring the trails and enjoying the panoramic views.

Pictures: Above the waterfalls

*Picture:* Final view of the Helderberg Escarpment

Date of Visit: 15 October 2023

Assateague State Park | Maryland

By Stephen

On January 17, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | best state parks list

I was well overdue on visiting Lewes, Delaware to see longtime friends Amanda and Phil, and when the opportunity came up, I immediately headed East. I mentioned that there were two parks I wanted to visit on the Discoverer’s List of the Best State Park in Each State. Amanda immediately jumped on the opportunity to visit Assateague State Park as it had been on her list of places to visit. With our cooler full and a beautiful day in the forecast, we headed south on the scenic Coast Highway to Maryland. The drive was just over an hour and as we drove through one town after another, I was amazed at the number of miniature golf courses along the way.

I’ve shared a bit about the park, ponies, and wildlife in the next sections. So feel free to skip through and jump to my notes about my visit and about Assateague National Seashore.

About the Park

Assateague State Park, Maryland’s only oceanfront park, is located on Maryland’s eastern shore and is known for its breathtaking coastal beauty and unique wildlife, particularly its famous wild ponies. These wild horses, known as Chincoteague Ponies, freely roam the park’s beaches, marshes, and woodlands, creating a distinctive and enchanting atmosphere for visitors. The ponies are believed to be descendants of shipwreck survivors and have adapted to the island’s dynamic ecosystem. Visitors can observe these majestic creatures in their natural habitat, providing a rare and memorable wildlife encounter. Assateague State Park spans 855 acres and offers a range of recreational activities, including camping, hiking trails, bird watching, and pristine sandy beaches for swimming and relaxation. The combination of natural beauty and the presence of these iconic wild ponies makes Assateague State Park a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts and those seeking a unique connection with the untamed charm of coastal wilderness. Fees: Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day $5/person | After Labor Day to Memorial Day weekend $5/vehicle.

*Picture:* Entrance on Assateague Island

About the Ponies

There are two herds; one in Maryland and one in Virginia. There are approximately 78 in the Maryland herd and about 150 in the Virginia herd. A contraceptive darting program may be used with the Maryland horses to keep the population size to a sustainable number.

Local lore experts theorized the ponies arrived on the island via a shipwrecked vessel in the late 18th or early 19th century. Others attribute their arrival by pirates drawn to the island who ultimately abandoned the animals. A more likely theory is that farmers in colonial times used the island for grazing areas to avoid paying taxes on the land.

The National Park Service manages the herd of ponies at the northern end of Assateague Island. The separate herd in Virginia is owned by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Department, which sponsors the annual pony penning and swim every July.

The ponies’ diet consists mainly of marsh and dune grasses. Their water comes from the freshwater ponds located on the island. They are true horses, and not actual ponies, who have adapted to the diet and life on Assateague. During the winter their coats become quite thick to protect them from the harsh winds. Their short, stocky build allows them to navigate the marshes and to store water efficiently.

Other Wildlife

Assateague Island, situated on the Atlantic flyway, is a bird-watcher’s paradise. Over 200 species of birds have been sighted here, ranging from gulls to herons, egrets to eagles, and even rare peregrine falcons and snowy owls. The most commonly seen birds include ospreys, herons, egrets, sandpipers, shorebirds, ducks, geese, and other waterfowl. There are also two types of deer on the island, whitetail and sika.

The ocean and bay that surround the island are full of life. Dolphins can often be seen playing in the waves of the ocean. Flounder, spot, sea trout, puffer, rockfish, croaker, red drum, and bluefish are residents of the area, while marlin and tuna can be found in the deeper waters offshore. Occasionally, seals, whales, sand sharks, and sea turtles wash up on the shore.

My Visit to the Park

Our first stop before we crossed over to Assateague Island, we stopped at the Assateague Island Visitor Center, which is operated by the National Park Service (NPS). The visitor center has a lot of information about the history of and wildlife on the island, as well as a book and souvenir store shop. Assateague State Park encompasses only a small portion of the island, while Assateague Island National Seashore encompasses the majority of the island. Since this is operated by the NPS, we didn’t get much information about the park but did ask where there were pony sightings. The area around the visitor center offers some spectacular views of the Sinepuxent Bay.

*Picture:* Assateague Island Visitor Center

Pictures: Outdoor Map at the Visitor Center – if you zoom in on the picture to the left, you can see how small the State Park is relative to the Island.

Let’s find some Ponies!

We headed across the Verrazano Bridge and over Sinepuxent Bay to the State Park and as soon as we got to Stephen Decatur Memorial Road, we saw our first ponies. We then continued straight and into Assateague State Park where we parked, paid our $5, and to our surprise, there was a lone horse just standing in the parking lot! The State Park has a beautiful beach, the 5 Tides Restaurant and Shop (which was closed for the season), and numerous camping sites. We headed to the beach to see if we could get a glimpse of the ponies on the beach, but there were none, just a bunch of surfers. We also walked along the road through the campgrounds (which was empty) in search of more ponies, but only found evidence of them in the form of Horse “Muffins.”

*Picture:* The lone pony in the parking lot.

Pictures: Beach Access from the Campgrounds | Horse “Muffins”

*Picture:* Campground with Bathroom and Shower Facilities

Ponies Sighting!

We decided to head out and see if we would have better luck at the Assateague Island National Seashore, so we headed back to the car and then south on Stephen Decatur Memorial Road. And to our surprise, as we left the parking lot, we saw the horse that was in the parking lot, now grazing by the roadside. Then as we turned left onto Stephen Decatur Memorial Road, we saw another pony!

Pictures: The Ponies!

Assateague Island National Seashore

As we approached the entrance to the National Seashore, there was a line of cars paying the entrance fee. I was a bit shocked at the cost of $25 per vehicle for 7 days (Although I swear it was $35). Anyway, I knew I was about to embark on a trip across the country, so I decided to renew my America the Beautiful Pass ($80 for the year), which gave us access to the park. I should note that if you arrive by foot or bicycle, there is no fee. Hint: Perhaps bring your bike, park at the state parking lot for $5, and ride your bike into the National Seashore.

We decided to hike two trails while we were there – the Life of the Marsh Trail and the Life of the Forest Trail. The Life of the Marsh Trail takes you on an elevated boardwalk winding above the wetlands and mudflats and also takes you out to Sinepuxent Bay.

*Picture:* Sinepuxent Bay from Assateague Island

Pictures: Me, Amanda, and Phil | The Wetlands

We ran into a bunch of people during our hike and asked them if they had spotted any ponies. Then we got lucky – someone told us that there were several ponies on the Life of the Forest Trail! So we set off on our mission to see more ponies. The trail was a beautiful one that took us through the woods and eventually led us to a boardwalk with a view of a marshy area. Even though we didn’t spot any ponies on the trail as we had hoped, we did manage to see a few off in the distance. Our goal was still to see the ponies on the beach, so we moved on to the Life of the Dunes Trail. This trail took us through the dunes and along the beach. I was pretty sure that with all the trees and “hiding” places, we would definitely spot some ponies here – but no luck! We were still happy to have seen a couple of the ponies and decided to head out. But before we drove too far, we spotted another pony! With our day complete, we headed back north to grab a bite to eat. I enjoyed our trip to Assateague State Park and the Assateague Island National Seashore and would highly recommend it. On my next visit, I would spend more time on the beach relaxing.

Pictures: From the Life of the Forest Trail

*Picture:* The Beach from the *Life of the Dunes Trail*

We had lunch in Selbyville, Delaware, just across the Maryland/Delaware border at Catch 54. My meal was a bit of a dichotomy – we all shared Crab Dip Loaded Tots and then I had the Roasted Beets with Pistachios, Grapefruit, Goat Cheese Mousse, and a Ginger Vinaigrette along with a refreshing Thompson Island IPA. Next up on my list to visit – Cape Henlopen State Park in Lewes, Delaware, and I also made a trip to Cape May, New Jersey.

Pictures: Catch 54 Exterior | Catch 54 Bar

Pictures: Crab Dip Loaded Tots | Roasted Beets

Date of Visit: 4 November 2023

sharing my love for philanthropy, cooking, and adventure

Author: Stephen Page 5 of 14

Guadalupe Peak | Texas (#27)

Palo Duro Canyon State Park | Texas

Lake Murray State Park | Oklahoma

Driskill Mountain | Louisiana (#26)

Mount Magazine State Park | Arkansas

Mount Magazine | Arkansas (#25) and Mount Magazine State Park

Taum Sauk Mountain | Missouri (#24)

Cape Henlopen State Park | Delaware

John Boyd Thatcher State Park | NY

Assateague State Park | Maryland