From one of my favorite songs by Hayley May, John Summit, and Lee Foss:
And there ain’t no city that is quite this pretty Like summertime in the Chi As the breeze is blowin’, breathing in this moment And we ride down Lakeshore Drive
You can’t argue with that—Chicago in the summer is pure magic. If you haven’t experienced it yet, what are you waiting for? During my Upper Midwest adventure this past July, I squeezed in a stop in the Windy City to meet with a couple of potential clients. Spoiler: the trip delivered all the charm, views, and vibes you’d expect from “Summertime Chi.”
Meeting a Michigander usually comes with an impromptu geography lesson. They hold their left hand with the palm facing them to represent Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (U.P.), where the Yoopers reside. Their right hand held upright with the palm facing outward, maps out the Lower Peninsula—the area below the Mackinac Bridge, often called “The Mitten” and home to the Trolls. This hand map is a classic and quirky way for Michiganders to show off their state’s geography, which can be charmingly unique or, depending on your perspective, a bit annoying. Now let’s explore the U.P.
Photos: A Michigander Map | A Traditional Map
The Great Lakes’ Greatest Hits
If the Great Lakes had a Greatest Hits album, it would definitely be titled Lighthouses & Waterfalls – these iconic features are everywhere you turn. After leaving L’Anse, I cruised east on US-41 for a scenic hour and fifteen minutes, landing in Marquette, Michigan—the largest city in the U.P. With a population of just under 20,000, Marquette blends small-town charm with big-city amenities. I love to make pit stops during my road trips, so naturally, Marquette called for a quick exploration.
This lakeside town boasts stunning Lake Superior views, and it’s home to Northern Michigan University, which adds a youthful vibe to the area. If you’ve got the time, a hike up Sugarloaf Mountain offers unbeatable vistas, with a panoramic view that stretches for miles—perfect for taking in the sheer scale of Lake Superior, which, by the way, holds enough water to cover North and South America in a foot of water. Or you can take a leisurely stroll along the harbor for some serious photo ops.
One stop you shouldn’t miss is the decommissioned Ore Dock, a towering relic of Marquette’s industrial past. Once a bustling hub for shipping iron ore, this massive structure now stands as a dramatic piece of history along the waterfront. Its rusted, steel frame and vast length make for an impressive sight, and the dock offers a unique perspective on the city’s maritime heritage. I also wandered over to the Marquette Harbor Light Station, only to discover you need to sign up for tours to actually explore the grounds—something to keep in mind if you plan a visit! It was a brief stop, but I’m glad I checked it out.
Check ☑️, saw Marquette.
Photos: The Lake Superior Shoreline | Marquette Harbor Light Station
Photo: The Decommissioned Ore Dock
Next up on my journey, Wagner Falls Scenic Site in Munising, Michigan—a spot that the Wisconsin ladies I met at Starved Rock State Park raved about. If you caught my earlier posts, you’ll remember these ladies also tipped me off about Parfrey’s Glen, which I checked out earlier this month. A quick 50-minute drive and I found myself at the falls.
Photos: The Trailhead | A Glimpse into the Park’s History
Wagner Falls is located just 1.5 miles south of Munising, right off Michigan 94. Parking is available on both sides of the road, and I managed to snag one of the last spots. This little gem is a Michigan State Scenic Site, and the 0.25-mile trail is an easy stroll that takes you through a dense forest of old-growth pine and hemlock trees. The falls themselves are a 20-foot cascade that tumbles over limestone and sandstone—geological formations that are hundreds of millions of years old. Perfect for those Insta-worthy pics. Be prepared, though—the place draws a crowd, including city folk who seem more glued to their phones than the stunning falls in front of them. But don’t let that stop you—Wagner Falls is definitely worth a stop if you’re passing through, though maybe not worth going out of your way for.
Photos: Wagner Creek | Wagner Falls and Scenic Observation Decks
Photo: Wagner Falls
Who Knew?!
I hit the road again, heading west toward Tahquamenon Falls State Park, a scenic hour and a half drive away. The park covers nearly 50,000 acres, making it Michigan’s second-largest state park. My spot for the night was Rivermouth Campground—about 17 miles from the Lower Falls and just 5 miles south of Paradise, Michigan, off Michigan 123. Weekends in the U.P. can get pretty busy, so I had to split my visit between two different campgrounds. But hey, I’m mobile, so no big deal!
Photos: Rivermouth Campground Entrance on Michigan 123 | My Campsite for the Night
With limited hiking options at Rivermouth, I decided to venture out to Whitefish Point. Even though I arrived just after the museum and lighthouse had closed, I was thrilled to still have the chance to explore the grounds and beach. Whitefish Point is home to the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum and the historic Whitefish Point Lighthouse—both perfect for a dose of maritime history. The museum’s exhibits on the infamous Edmund Fitzgerald are as fascinating as they are chilling, featuring haunting artifacts from the shipwreck, including the ship’s bell, which was recovered in 1995. Climbing the lighthouse offers breathtaking views of Lake Superior, and the beach is a treasure trove of driftwood and shipwreck debris. Did you know this area is considered the Graveyard of the Great Lakes? With over 240 shipwrecks in the Whitefish Point area alone since 1816, it’s a must-see for anyone fascinated by Great Lakes lore or simply looking for a memorable stop! Who knew I’d stumble upon such a cool place?
Photos: The Whitefish Point Light Station | An Iron Winch on the Museum grounds
Photos: Rudder from the M.M. Drake | History of the Graveyard of Lake Superior
Photos: Driftwood on the Beach | The Sandy Beach at Whitefish Point
Radio Flashback to 1976!
The Edmund Fitzgerald, a massive freighter that met its tragic end in a fierce 1975 storm, remains one of the most haunting maritime mysteries. Gordon Lightfoot’s classic “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald” immortalizes the ship’s story with evocative lyrics and a soulful melody, paying tribute to the 29 crew members who lost their lives that night. Standing on that beach, gazing out at the vast expanse of Lake Superior, it felt like being at the ocean—and realizing this was the area where the Edmund Fitzgerald sank was truly awe-inspiring.
Photos: Gordon Lightfoot’s Album | The Edmund FitzgeraldPhoto: Edmund Fitzgerald Memorial
Why Not?
In the end, being spontaneous is what makes any road trip truly memorable. It’s those detours, the unplanned stops, and the little side adventures that often turn out to be the highlights of the journey. You never know what hidden gems you’ll stumble upon, like a lighthouse you didn’t plan to visit or a waterfall tucked away just off the road. And let’s be honest—you might not find yourself back in these parts anytime soon, so why not seize the moment and explore? It’s all part of the adventure, and sometimes, the best stories come from the places you didn’t even know you’d find. So next time, just go for it—you might just discover something amazing.
After a grueling climb to the summit of Hawkeye Point, Iowa’s highest natural peak, I was ready to hit the road for South Dakota. I was uber excited because this trip would tick off South Dakota from my list, bringing my total to 46 states visited—eight of which I’ve called home. (Truthfully, I might have hit 48 states—I think I might have been to Wyoming and Montana at some point, but I can’t quite remember, so I won’t count them.)
Mosquito Swarms and Flood-Free Comfort
Let’s dive into my overnight adventure. I decided to camp and booked a site through Hipcamp at The Retreat at Pointers Ridge—a charming spot that offers one campsite amidst its artist retreat. It’s a haven for creativity, where you can do everything from painting to poetry readings, and even dog scent trials. Little did I know, I was in for quite the experience. The host, Deb, was a gem—so accommodating and attentive to my needs. She gave me flawless directions to the campsite and made sure I knew I could just set up and camp.
When I arrived, I checked out the riverbank where my site was set up. As you might remember from my previous posts, I planned to sleep in the back of my rental SUV rather than pitching a tent. While getting settled, Deb popped by to show me around. First thing I noticed: mosquitoes were out in full force—no way was I lighting a fire or hanging out outside, despite the layers of bug spray I slathered on. The second thing: the area had seen a ton of rain, leading to some serious flooding. My campsite was right on the banks of the Big Sioux River, which was pretty high.
Pictures: My Campsite | The swollen Big Sioux River
Deb walked me through the property and mentioned that I was the only guest that night. The property’s centerpiece is a large communal building with a bathroom, shower, electricity, Wi-Fi, and a spacious kitchen and living area. There’s also a small screened-in cottage I dubbed The Bar, complete with lounge chairs and a small bar—perfect for hanging out if the mosquitoes weren’t so relentless.
Pictures: The Main Building and Kitchen
Pictures: Men’s Bathroom and Shower
With more rain on the way and the bug situation being what it was, Deb suggested parking my SUV by The Bar and that I could sleep in my SUV, The Bar, or the main building. I was a bit concerned about potential flooding, but Deb assured me that even during the worst rains, this area stayed dry.
Pictures: “The Bar” and my rental SUV | Some of the cabins on the property
I spent a bit of time in The Bar, but with one door that didn’t quite close and a buggy, humid atmosphere, I decided to crash in the main building. The air-conditioned comfort and cozy couch made for a much better stay—until I woke up in the middle of the night!
Rain, Rain and more Rain!
Here’s where the fun really started. I woke up to a torrential downpour and decided to play it safe by packing up all my gear and stashing it by the door. With my car just 20 feet away, I figured if the river decided to crash its banks, I’d be ready for a quick getaway. I even ventured out to check if the land was turning into a water park or if the river had managed to sneak over its banks.
During a brief lull in the rain, I managed to get some stuff into the SUV. Sleep was elusive that night—flooding fears will do that to you. I was grateful for the cozy refuge of the main building. By morning, with the river still behaving itself, I showered, grabbed breakfast, and hit the road for my next adventure: Devil’s Gulch in Garretson, South Dakota. This quirky spot, highly recommended by Emily, the schoolteacher I met at Hawkeye Point, was conveniently on my route. I figured, why not? After all, you only live once, and a bit of spontaneous exploration never hurt anyone!
Barney Fife Sighting!
As I entered Garretson, South Dakota, the speed limit dropped pretty quickly and when I came over a small hill, there he was – Barney Fife! (I am sure most of you reading this will have to look up who Barney Fife was). Anyway, I was fortunate that I didn’t know where I was going, so I was driving super slow, so no ticket here. But come on Barney, why here? and why so early? Are there that many speeders in the metropolis of Garretson? Or maybe you’re still waiting for Jesse James?
Anyway, if you find yourself cruising through the quiet little town of Garretson, South Dakota, you might stumble upon a place that makes you wonder if you’ve accidentally wandered onto the set of an old Western movie. Welcome to Devil’s Gulch, where history and folklore collide in one of those “blink, and you’ll miss it” attractions that’s more charmingly quirky than downright terrifying.
The Outlaw Jesse James
So what’s the big deal about Devil’s Gulch? Well, legend has it that this narrow, rocky ravine is the very spot where notorious outlaw Jesse James made a daring escape on horseback after a failed bank robbery in Northfield, Minnesota. Now, the story goes that ol’ Jesse was being chased by an angry posse and, in a feat that would make any stuntman jealous, he spurred his horse to leap over the 20-foot-wide chasm to safety. Sure, it sounds a little far-fetched, but who are we to ruin a good story?
Today, visitors can stand at the edge of the gulch, peering down into the murky waters below, and wonder how on earth anyone – let alone a horse – could have made that jump. The truth? Well, it’s probably not quite as dramatic as the legend, but where’s the fun in that? So, if you’re in the mood for a roadside stop with a dash of tall tale and a sprinkle of “this place is just weird enough to be interesting,” Devil’s Gulch is the place for you.
I arrived just as the park was opening, and was immediately greeted by my own posse – that is by a posse of mosquitos. To avoid being eaten alive, like Clark Kent turning into Superman, I quickly suited up for my hike through the park, complete with – yes, you guessed it – copious amounts of bug spray.
Pictures: Trail Information | Trail Map| Trailhead and Donation Box to the right
The park isn’t huge, with ten site markers to discover, although I think I missed a few—probably while swatting mosquitos. The footbridge at the trailhead marks the spot where, in 1876, Jesse James supposedly coaxed his horse to jump the gulch. The open-grill metal bridge gives you a cool perspective on the impressive feat and a hint of what would happen if you didn’t make it across!
Pictures: The Spot where Jesse James jumped the Gulch | View from the River below (Marker #2)
Picture: View from the Bridge | Heading down to Marker #2
Once across the bridge, you’ll want to look for Marker #1: the Cedar Observation Point. Fun fact: Cedar trees are the only evergreen native to South Dakota. I’m pretty sure I saw this, just not the marker. Onward to Marker #2: River Observation Point. From here, you can look back up to the trailhead and get a sense of how high the jump was. You’ll also notice how the rock appears to be “stacked blocks,” one of the Gulch’s many mysteries.
Next up is Marker #3: Towering Rock. I took three pictures in the area, but honestly, I couldn’t tell you which one is Towering Rock. Oh well. Marker #4, another elusive one, is the Scenic Overlook, although I stumbled upon many scenic overlooks.
Pictures: The “Stacked Rocks” appearance of the Gulch walls | Towering Rock? (Marker #3)
Marker #5 is the Cobblestone Path—this one was pretty clear, as you can see in the pictures. As you hike along the rim overlooking the river, you’ll come upon Marker #6: the Waterfall Observation Point. This gives you a great view of the waterfall, which is fed by an underground spring at the top of the falls. Rounding the bend and crossing the next bridge, you’ll find yourself at The Devil’s Stairway/Kitchen—Marker #7. I never did spot the actual marker, but I knew I was in the right place. I decided to descend the stairway a bit. It’s pretty cool how the edges of the right wall are sharp, while the left wall is smooth—another mystery of the Gulch.
Pictures: Devil’s Stairway/Kitchen (Marker #7) | Bridger over Devil’s Stairway
After crossing the bridge, Marker #8 is the Plateau Observation Point, offering a different view of the Gulch and the famous Sioux Quartzite rock. Soon, you’ll cross the last bridge—Devil’s Falls Cross Bridge, Marker #9. Yet another site where I couldn’t find the marker. Once across, you’ll see Marker #10, the Exit—pretty hard to miss. The exit leads you to the Visitor Center, which wasn’t open during my visit, and then to the parking lot.
Pictures: Devil’s Falls Cross Bridge | The Falls from the Bridge | The Gulch from the Bridge
Pictures: Marker #10 – The Exit and a sample of the Markers | The Visitor Center
And that, my friends, is the curious charm of Devil’s Gulch—where the legends are larger than life, the scenery is pretty cool, and the mosquitos are just as relentless (at least when I was there). So, if you’re up for a quirky detour with a side of tall tales, this is your kind of spot.
From Quirky Attraction to a Sacred Site
A mere 30-minute drive from Devil’s Gulch brings you to Pipestone National Monument in Pipestone, Minnesota—thanks to another great tip from Emily, the school teacher. She mentioned a cool waterfall, but little did I know the depth of spiritual significance that awaited me. When I arrived, I found myself alongside a group of old car enthusiasts, their classic cars adding an unexpected touch of nostalgia to the experience.
Pictures: The Visitor Center | A bonus for the visit—Classic Cars
This isn’t just any park. For over 3,000 years, Indigenous people have quarried the red stone here to craft pipes, or “calumets,” used in prayer and ceremony—a tradition still vibrant today. With its profound spiritual and cultural heritage, a visit to the visitor center is a must. There, you’ll dive into the site’s rich history through engaging exhibits and live demonstrations, including artists showcasing their craft.
Picture: Trail Map
As you step onto the Circle Trail—a 3/4-mile paved path—you’ll be immersed in the sacred landscape. Although flooding closed the bridge under the waterfall during my visit, the trail’s short length still allowed for an enriching experience. The rustling prairie grasses and pinkish-red cliffs create a tangible link to the generations who have revered this land long before Minnesota was a state.
The trail leads you past the Spotted Quarry, named for the distinctive appearance of the pipestone. You’ll also encounter Lake Hiawatha, a surprising gem in the middle of the prairie, created by the CCC-ID in the 1930s. As you approach Winnewissa Falls, the smooth sumac—green in summer but brilliant red in fall—adds a splash of color to the landscape.
Pictures: Spotted Quarry | Lake Hiawatha
Pictures: The creek flowing from the falls to Lake Hiawatha | My first glimpse of Winnewissa Falls
Around the falls, you’ll find sites like Old Stone Face and Glacial Ripples, along with the Nicollet Inscription, left by the French scientist Joseph Nicollet in 1838. Leaping Rock, where warriors demonstrated their bravery by jumping from the cliff onto the top of Leaping Rock roughly 12 feet away and jamming an arrow into one of the cracks.
Pictures: Nicollet Inscription | Leaping Rock
Winnewissa Falls, while not the most dramatic waterfall, holds a legendary tale. According to lore, the Great Spirit used the pipestone to form a pipe and smoke it over warring nations, urging them to lay down their arms. The nearby waterfall symbolically pours from the rock, representing peace.
Pictures: The best view I could capture of the falls with the bridge closed—From the Top | The stairs that connect the top and bottom of Winnewissa Falls
Picture: A close-up shot of Winnewissa Falls
Returning to the Visitor Center and completing the Circle Trail, you’ll be greeted by the impressive Quartzite Cliffs and resilient plants thriving through rock cracks. Finally, you’ll reach The Oracle, a natural rock formation with a face-like profile that seems to watch over the land—a sacred spot where offerings were traditionally made in exchange for wisdom.
Picture: Another Quarry Site
Visiting Pipestone National Monument offers a unique journey through both natural beauty and deep spiritual significance. The sacred landscape, with its historical and cultural richness, provides a profound connection to the past. It’s a reminder that every rock and trail tells a story that transcends time, making it a must-see for anyone seeking more than just a scenic view.
Next up: Fort Ransom State Park in North Dakota. Catch You on the Road!
During a visit to Starved Rock State Park in Illinois, I struck up a conversation with a lively group of women on a girls’ trip from Wisconsin. They were seasoned adventurers, always seeking new outdoor escapades. Naturally, I offered to snap their picture, and in return, they shared a treasure trove of must-visit spots. One gem that caught my ear was Parfrey’s Glen State Natural Area. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that this secluded natural wonder is actually nestled within Wisconsin’s Devil’s Lake State Park, which happens to be my next destination—hailed as the best state park in Wisconsin by the Discoverer Blog.
Pictures: Entrance Sign off of County Road DL | Parking Lot
Helpful Hints
Wisconsin charges for entry to its state parks, and Devil’s Lake is one of the pricier ones at $16 per day for non-residents. However, you can snag an annual pass for $38, which is a better deal if you’re planning a longer stay. The only catch? The pass has to be attached to the inside of your windshield. Even though I was in a rental, I opted for the annual pass since I was staying for three days—$48 for daily fees versus $38 for the pass? No brainer!
Now, as you’re planning your visit, I wouldn’t recommend paying $16 just to see Parfrey’s Glen. It’s a nice spot, but not worth the fee on its own. If you’re visiting other parks in Wisconsin, it’s a great addition to your trip.
A Glimpse into History
Parfreys Glen, named after Robert Parfrey, a 19th-century settler who was among the first to appreciate its beauty, has long been a cherished destination for nature enthusiasts. The glen’s formation dates back to the last Ice Age, over 12,000 years ago, when glacial meltwater carved through the sandstone and quartzite, creating the narrow, steep-sided gorge that we see today. This geological marvel not only showcases stunning rock formations but also serves as a living testament to the Earth’s dynamic history. As Wisconsin’s first designated State Natural Area, this enchanting gorge offers a fascinating blend of history, adventure, and breathtaking scenery.
Pictures: Rock Rededicating the Park as a Natural Area
Peaceful Morning Hike
I spent the night in Middleton, Wisconsin (just outside Madison) and woke up early, ready for an adventure. Since I was ahead of schedule, I decided to check out Parfrey’s Glen for a morning hike. The trail is a manageable 1.7 miles round trip, perfect for a peaceful start to the day. The cool morning air and last night’s rain kept the bugs at bay, though they were starting to stir.
Parfrey’s Glen offers a relatively easy yet incredibly rewarding trail that takes you deep into a stunning gorge. The hike begins with a gentle stroll through lush woodlands, then gradually becomes more rugged as you get closer to the glen. Along the way, you’ll cross a creek multiple times and be surrounded by towering cliffs and vibrant, moss-covered boulders. The trail ends at a beautiful waterfall, where the soothing sound of cascading water invites you to pause, reflect, and enjoy the tranquil scenery.
My morning hike at Parfrey’s Glen was the perfect start to an adventurous day in Wisconsin!
Pictures: An Old Pitcher Pump | Trailhead Marker | Initial Part of the Trail
Pictures: Views along the hike
Pictures: The trail and one of the areas you cross the creek
Pictures: The beautiful walls of the gorge
Pictures: Close up view of the gorge walls
Picture: The waterfall at the end of the trail
Pictures: As I finished my hike, I saw a deer | The Ice Age Trail goes into Devil’s Lake State Park
Natural Bridge in Virginia is a geological marvel, standing at 215 feet high and 90 feet wide, carved by Cedar Creek. This natural limestone arch was considered sacred by the Monacan Indian Nation. George Washington surveyed the bridge for Lord Fairfax in 1750. Legend has it that Washington carved his initials into the rock, which visitors can still see today. Oh George, defacing our natural resources? 🤦♂️ Maybe the story about him chopping down his father’s Cherry Tree wasn’t a myth? In 1774, Thomas Jefferson purchased the bridge and 157 surrounding acres for 20 shillings, about £1 or $4.44 or roughly $7,200 today with inflation. Quite a steal for the bridge! The site also boasts rich biodiversity, with rare plants and wildlife. Natural Bridge became a National Historic Landmark in 1998, reflecting its historical and cultural significance.
Picture: The Natural Bridge
Camping Adventures
The night before my park visit, I stumbled upon Thunder BRidge Campground, a gem I found on HipCamp. This 100-acre site has quite a history—originally built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the ’30s, then a boys’ juvenile detention center and a Big Brothers/Big Sisters camp until 2009. Thunder Bridge offers private tent sites, cozy cabins in the woods, and spacious RV spots on a well-kept green space. The host, Adam, was uber friendly, super chill and helpful.
I met Adam at the entrance and arranged to buy some firewood from him. Note: Always buy local firewood to avoid spreading invasive species—many parks ban non-local wood. Adam drove me to my cabin, Woodpecker 1, and dropped off the wood. I chose a cabin because it wasn’t much more expensive, and I didn’t want to hassle with setting up a tent for just one night. The cabin was spacious, had all I needed, and the bathhouse wasn’t far away, complete with a communal room to charge my phone and laptop.
Pictures: Woodpecker #1
Hungry upon arrival, I used some farm-fresh eggs from my previous Airbnb host to make a delicious egg sandwich. Later, I steamed tamales I’d picked up during my travels. Who says you can’t eat well while camping? It was a chilly night in early October, but I survived and enjoyed the adventure!
Pictures: My Egg Sandwich | Cooking Tamales over the Fire
Pictures: My campsite with the wood from Adam | I love making campfires!
Not All Natural Bridges Are Created Equal
A few months back, I had an amazing time at Kentucky’s Natural Bridge, so I was super pumped to check out Virginia’s version. Spoiler alert: it didn’t quite live up to the hype. Sometimes, beautiful spots get too popular and end up feeling more like theme parks than natural wonders, and that was definitely the vibe here. Let’s just say, Virginia’s Natural Bridge won’t be making my list of favorite state parks.
Pictures: The Visitor Center | LOVE sculpture next to the Visitor Center
First off, the entrance fee. If you’ve read my other posts, you know how I feel about high entrance fees. Sure, parks need money for upkeep, but charging $9 per person (13 and over) can make it pretty pricey for families, especially those on a budget. It gave me flashbacks to the pricey Flume Gorge in New Hampshire.
At the Visitor Center, you’ll find the usual suspects: a gift shop, exhibits, and restrooms. From there, it’s a trek down 137 steps to the Cedar Creek Trail. There are a few other trails in the park, but Cedar Creek Trail is the main event. It’s a fairly easy 2.0-mile round trip with a 400-foot elevation change—most of which is tackled by those stairs down to the Trail Store, where you pay your $9 fee at a small window.
Pictures: The start of the walk down to the Trail Store
Picture: Trail Map
A short walk from the store brings you to the Natural Bridge. It’s a cool geological formation, carved over millennia, but it didn’t quite wow me like Kentucky’s. And here’s where things get a bit theme park-ish: rows of benches and spotlights facing the bridge. For almost a century, the bridge has been illuminated on the last Saturday night of every month from April to October. They recreate the first light show from 1927, with the 200-foot-tall arch lit from above and below while Cedar Creek murmurs below. Sounds kind of magical, right? But still, at $9 a pop, it feels a bit commercial.
Pictures: The Natural Bridge – complete with a spotlight in the foreground | Natural Bridge from the other side – notice all the benches at the end of the trail
A Journey Through Time
Walking along Cedar Creek Trail at Natural Bridge State Park in Virginia is like stepping back in time. The trail offers a glimpse into the rich history of the Monacan Indian Nation through its living history exhibit, although it was closed during my visit. This exhibit usually showcases the Monacan way of life, offering insights into their daily activities, traditions, and skills. But based on the pictures, needs a little work.
Pictures: The Monacan Indian Exhibit
Continuing along the trail, you’ll encounter the Saltpeter Cave, a significant historical site used during the War of 1812 for mining saltpeter, a key ingredient in gunpowder. Cool history, but not much to it. Next, you’ll reach Lace Falls, a 30-foot waterfall that provides a serene and picturesque stop. It was nice, but wouldn’t hit my top 100 waterfalls that I have seen.
Pictures: The Saltpeter Cave
Pictures: Views along Cedar Creek Trail
Pictures: Cool Rock on the Trail | Asters or Symphyotrichum
Picture: Lace Falls
Lastly, the trail features the mysterious “Lost River,” which disappears underground, adding an element of natural wonder to your hike. Each of these sites along Cedar Creek Trail tells a unique story, weaving together the area’s cultural and natural heritage.
Pictures: The “Lost River”
I finished my visit back at the Visitor Center to buy some postcards and use the restroom. And since I was there, I decided head downstairs and check out the exhibits. The staff was super cool and showed me the star of the exhibits, a beautiful Eastern Indigo Snake, by the name of Margarita.
Picture: Margarita
Bookend Adventures: The Acorn Inn
Outside of Margarita and yes, the actual Naturall bridge, the hightlights of this trip were camping the night before and then my stay afterwards. Venturing northeast along the Blueridge Parkway from Natural Bridge State Park, I landed in the quaint hills of Faber, Virginia, at the Acorn Inn Bed & Breakfast, about an hour and a half away.
Picture: The Acorn Inn Bed & Breakfast
Nestled amidst the charming hills, Martin and Kathy run this delightful retreat with warmth and flair. Surrounded by lush forests and vineyards, the inn offers a serene escape. Each morning, Kathy’s homemade breakfasts tantalized my taste buds, while Martin brewed some coffee and shared stories and local tips. Turns out, Kathy’s brother shared my college alma mater and major—a small world indeed!
Picture: My Room at the Acorn Inn
Pictures: The Hallway – look at how wide the “stable” doors are! | Communal Men’s Bathroom
Pictures: Communal Living Room | Kitchen (FYI – not set up for cooking) | Banquet Room
Pictures: Outdoor Spaces
With the whole inn to myself for three nights, I soaked in the tranquility. My photos capture the cozy common areas and perfect porch relaxation spots, showing the charm and character oozing from every corner of the inn. How cool is it that the inn was once a stable, transformed by Martin himself? Martin’s craftsmanship is just the start—Kathy’s talent as an artist and photographer shines through the beautiful pieces adorning the walls. I wanted to buy so many of her art pieces! Before opening the Acorn Inn, they lived and worked in Mexico and South America, so the walls are also adorned with folk art, masks, and tapestries from their travels. It’s the perfect spot for remote work and nearby adventures, like exploring the charming town of Nellysford. I couldn’t resist grabbing wine and snacks from Basic Necessities. If you’re in the area, do yourself a favor and check out the Acorn Inn Bed & Breakfast! You won’t regret it.
Pictures: Some of Kathy’s Artwork
Pictures: Some of the Folkart from their Travels & Life in Mexico and South America
Picture: Basic Necessities in Nellsyford | VA
Wrapping Up the Adventure!
As we wrap up this adventure, let’s take a moment to reflect on the highs and lows, the triumphs and tribulations. While Natural Bridge State Park didn’t quite knock my socks off like we hoped (cue sad trombone), my journey wasn’t all doom and gloom. Oh no, my friends, Thunder BRidge Campground was an uber cool find and nestled in the hills of Faber, Virginia, lies a hidden gem—the Acorn Inn Bed & Breakfast, run by the dynamic duo, Martin and Kathy. After all, life’s too short for boring adventures! 🌟
One of my all-time favorite chefs and globetrotters was the legendary Anthony Bourdain. He once said, “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”
Now, let’s talk about Cape May, New Jersey. This little beach hamlet managed to break my heart in ways I didn’t see coming. Sure, the journey was fun and educational, but it was also like an unseasoned clam chowder – something was missing. Granted, I visited during the off-season, which meant fewer crowds but also fewer attractions. But honestly, after hearing my travel buddy’s tales of the summer madness in these beach towns, I’m pretty relieved I dodged the peak tourist frenzy. Cape May might not have lived up to the hype, but hey, at least I got a history lesson out of it!
Picture: Map of Cape May
When on Holiday. . .
A little background on this excursion – I was visiting my buddy Phil and his wife Amanda in Lewes, Delaware. With Amanda tied up at work, Phil and I seized the opportunity for a boys’ day out, setting our sights on Cape May. Our journey began at the Lewes Ferry Terminal, one of the nicest I’ve seen, and the On the Rocks Dockside Grill. Now, ferry protocol: arrive early, check in, line up the car, head inside to chill, and wait for the call. And since work was the last thing on our minds, we cozied up to the bar for some top-notch Bloody Marys because, hey, when on holiday, it’s practically the law! Here is a link to the Cape May – Lewes Ferry.
Pictures: The Lewes Ferry Terminal
Pictures: The Lewes Ferry Terminal | The Breakfast of Champions
The “Call”
It’s like the iconic moment at the Indy 500 when they holler, “Drivers, Start Your Engines!” But here, at the ferry terminal, it’s our turn. A crackle over the PA system signals it’s time to hustle to our cars and prepare to board. These salty sailors work their magic, seamlessly ushering vehicles onto the ferry. Once aboard, we ascended to the upper deck, ready to soak in the 85-minute voyage to Cape May. Despite the November chill nipping at our noses, we braved the brisk air for a while before retreating indoors to explore the ship and chill a bit more. I bet the trip in the summer is even more amazing. But, alas, we made do. And just like that, as the shoreline drew near, the call echoed once more, beckoning us back to our car for the next leg of our adventure.
Pictures: Boarded and set to go! | Looking back at Lewes
Pictures: Bundled up for the Crossing | Approaching the Cape May Ferry Terminal | Passing a Ferry
Farm-to-Bottle
Southern New Jersey boasts rich farmland, offering bountiful harvests of fresh produce. This fertile region is known for its vibrant, community-driven agricultural traditions. Here, farmers cultivate a bounty of crops, from juicy tomatoes to sweet corn, under the sun-drenched skies of the Garden State.
Our next stop was Nauti Spirits, a true farm-to-bottle operation, which is also one of NJ’s largest distilleries, with two massive all-copper pot stills and a column still. It is located on a bucolic 60-acre coastal working farm that sits between the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay, less than 5 minutes from (and between) downtown Cape May and the Cape May – Lewes Ferry. The distillery is unique in NJ, as they use much of what they grow on their farm to produce their spirits.
Picture: Nauti Spirits Distillery
Pictures: Cool Vibe inside Nauti Spirts
Walking in, you’re hit with that vibe—cool, laid-back, and totally inviting. The staff? Top-notch. The place? Gorgeous, with sunflowers swaying in the breeze like a scene from a postcard. We sampled their spirits, and while they were good, let’s just say the bourbon left a little something to be desired for the price. But hey, it’s all about the experience, right? So we kicked back, sipping our cocktails, soaking in the vibe, and reveling in the beauty of local agriculture. Cheers to that!
Pictures: Sunflowers at Nauti Spirits | Bourbon on the Rocks and a Nauti Mule
Not So Lucky
Our stomachs growling, we decided to grab a bite before diving into our Cape May adventure. The chosen spot? Lucky Bones Back Water Grill. Not that it would matter to me (I’m a pescatarian), but with a name like Lucky Bones and the aroma of a pit barbecue as you stepped out of your car, you’d think the menu would scream BBQ. Spoiler alert: BBQ wasn’t the star of this show.
Curious about the quirky name, I found out that “Lucky Bone” refers to the peculiar hook-like claw of the male horseshoe crab. Back in Cape May’s whaling days, sailors deemed these claws lucky charms, taking them to sea for protection. Hence, the name “Lucky Bones.”
Pictures: The “Sargeant Joe Friday” Mahi Sandwich | Beer with more Personality
Back to our dining experience: we opted for bar seating, as the dining room felt like a relic from another era—eerily cavernous and devoid of charm. The menu? A nostalgic trip to the 1980s, alongside Banana Seat Bikes, Miami Vice suits, and leg warmers. The food was just okay—nothing disastrous, but certainly nothing to write home about. I ordered a Mahi sandwich with house-cut fries. Note to restaurant owners: if you’re going to boast about house-cut fries, make sure you know how to cook them properly! The sandwich itself was as bland and uninspired as Sergeant Joe Friday from Dragnet. At least the beer had a bit of personality, which was more than I could say for the rest of the meal.
A Step Back in Time
Cape May is home to one of the highest concentrations of Victorian homes (second only to San Francisco), drawing visitors from all over. We parked near the Washington Street Mall—a pedestrian promenade brimming with unique shops, quirky boutiques, a variety of restaurants, and laid-back bars. We decided to dive in and explore. The mall had some cool spots but didn’t quite blow us away, so we wandered into the Historic District. The tree-lined streets were dotted with Victorian homes, most of them impressively well-maintained. These ornate, colorful houses definitely added a touch of charm and old-world elegance to the area and I get why people are drawn here.
Picture: Victorian Home in Cape May | NJ
Picture: Victorian Homes in Cape May | NJ
Sun, Sand, and Surf
No visit to Cape May is complete without hitting its pristine beaches—though maybe when it’s a bit warmer! On Cape May Beach, we stumbled upon a quirky beach bunker, a World War II relic standing strong against time and tides. This concrete sentinel adds a dash of history to the sandy shore, perfect for snapping unique photos or pondering its storied past while soaking up the sun. We’d dive deeper into history the next day at Cape Henlopen State Park in Delaware, discovering how differently the two states approach these historic sites. Sorry Jersey, Delaware has you beat here.
Picture: Cape May Beach
Pictures: Cape May Bunker | Cape May Bunker and Lighthouse
Beacon of History
Our final pit stop: the Cape May Lighthouse, a beacon calling out to explorers like us. Built in 1859, this iconic landmark boasts a height of 157 feet and a staggering 199 steps to the top. Its guiding light once served as a vital navigational aid for ships sailing along the bustling East Coast. While we missed the chance to peek inside, its majestic presence alone was worth the visit.
Pictures: Two views of the Cape May Lighthouse
Pictures: From Cape May’s Maritime Past
Adventures in Okay
As Anthony Bourdain wisely said, “Travel isn’t always pretty…but that’s okay.” So, let’s talk about Cape May, New Jersey. Sure, it didn’t steal the show for me, but hey, that’s part of the adventure, right? From exploring quirky beach bunkers to tasting local spirits, it was a journey sprinkled with surprises and lessons learned. Each stop, whether stellar or just okay, added a new chapter to my story. And isn’t that what travel’s all about? Happy Travels!
I was in the Albany, New York area visiting family, and my sister, Vicki, and I decided to do a hike before we both headed back our separate ways. On a side note, I convinced Vicki to hike Mount Greylock, the highest point in Massachusetts and the first of my State High Points, during a trip to Massachusetts to see the incredible Sona Jobarteh in concert. The two of us have hiked many places together and this hike in John Boyd Thatcher State Park – commonly known as Thatcher State Park – was quite a fun and interesting find.
Brunch First, then Hiking
Our sister Melissa and her husband Richard also made the trip up to Albany as it was sort of a mini family reunion, actually a cousins reunion. After the reunion, and before we headed out, we went to The Scene Coffee and Cocktails in Albany, New York for brunch. It’s a super cute restaurant with a patio, complete with a Gelato Cart (although it was not open when we were there) and a Champagne Vending Machine. I thought the vending machine was super cool. You ordered and paid for everything at the counter, and if you ordered champagne, they gave you a special token for the vending machine. Unfortunately, no champagne today as we were heading out for a nice hike. The brunch sandwiches and coffee were delish and I would definitely recommend The Scene if you are in the area!
Pictures: The Scene – Albany | NY
Pictures: Gelato Cart | Champagne Vending Machine
Pictures: Uber Cute Coffee
Pictures: A couple of the delish Brunch Sandwiches
Off to Voorheesville
Thatcher Park is in Voorheesville, New York – that’s quite the name and no it’s not from a Dr. Seuss book. In the early 17th century, Dutch settlers established the colony of New Netherland, with Albany becoming a crucial trading post along the Hudson River. In 1899, Voorheesville was founded with its roots in the Albany and Susquehanna Railroad era, and it was named after Alonzo B. Voorhees, a railroad attorney. Over the years, it has evolved from a railway community to a charming village known for its historic buildings and community-oriented atmosphere.
About the Park
Thatcher State Park is a hidden gem for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. Nestled in the scenic Helderberg Escarpment, this park offers a perfect blend of outdoor activities and breathtaking views. With over 2,000 acres of lush greenery, hiking enthusiasts can explore a network of trails that wind through wooded areas and lead to panoramic overlooks. The park has a $6 per vehicle fee, but my sister has an annual Empire Pass, so it’s included with the pass.
For those who prefer a more relaxed experience, the park provides spacious picnic areas, inviting families and friends to enjoy a sunny day outdoors. The park isn’t just about hiking and picnics; it boasts an awesome playground for kids and a refreshing pool to cool off during the summer months.
One of the highlights is the impressive Indian Ladder Trail, where you can walk along the cliff’s edge and take in the stunning vistas. If you’re lucky, you might even spot some soaring birds of prey. John Boyd Thatcher State Park isn’t just a park; it’s a nature-packed playground waiting to be explored. So, whether you’re up for a challenging hike, a leisurely picnic, or simply soaking in the scenic beauty, this park has something for everyone. Get ready to escape the hustle and bustle and immerse yourself in the tranquility of Thatcher State Park!
Pictures: Park Maps – for our hike, use the map on the left as a reference
What the heck is an Escarpment?
An escarpment is a steep, often cliff-like geological formation that marks the boundary between different elevations of terrain. Typically formed by erosion or tectonic activity, an escarpment creates a distinct and abrupt change in elevation. These formations are characterized by their steep slopes and can be found in various landscapes, offering stunning panoramic views from the elevated side while creating a notable transition between high and low areas.
Sounds like a cliff, so I asked ChatGPT what the difference was: While both cliffs and escarpments involve steep slopes, the key difference lies in their scale and geological context. A cliff is a vertical or near-vertical rock face with a considerable drop, often overlooking a body of water. In contrast, an escarpment is a more extensive and generally less steep slope that separates two different elevation levels in a landscape. Escarpments are larger geological formations, often marking the boundary between higher and lower terrains, whereas cliffs are more localized and frequently associated with coastlines. So there you have it!
Picture: About the Helderberg Escarpment
Top 5 Hiking Activities
Thatcher Park Overlook: One of the highlights of the park is the Thatcher Park Overlook, which provides breathtaking panoramic views of the Hudson Valley and the Adirondack Mountains. It’s a popular spot for visitors to take in the scenic beauty of the surrounding landscape.
Indian Ladder Trail: This trail takes hikers through a series of picturesque rock formations, caves, and waterfalls. The trail offers a unique perspective of the park’s geology and provides opportunities to explore the natural beauty of the area.
Hailes Cave: Hailes Cave is a fascinating limestone cave located within the park. While it may not be open to the public at all times, guided tours are sometimes available, allowing visitors to explore the cave’s unique features and learn about its geological significance.
Escarpment Trail: This challenging trail runs along the Helderberg Escarpment and offers stunning views of the Hudson Valley. Hikers can enjoy the diverse terrain, including rocky cliffs and wooded areas, as they traverse this scenic trail.
Thatcher Park Visitor Center: While not a hiking destination per se, the visitor center is a great starting point for exploring the park. It provides information about the park’s history, geology, and natural features. Additionally, it offers educational exhibits and interactive displays.
Our Visit:
We started at Thatcher Park Overlook, the first item on the list above, and it certainly delivers on the beautiful panoramic view. It is interesting, but understandable, that there is a parking time limit here. They are obviously trying to discourage hikers from parking here and wanting the spots to turnover for people coming here for the panoramic views.
Pictures: Panoramic Views from the Overlook
Picture: View from the Overlook, looking towards where we would park and start our hike
Parking time is up, time to find a parking spot
We decided to park near the Glen Doone Pavillion, the start/end of the Escarpment Trail. As a note, there is a restroom in this parking area. First, we headed to the point, which offers views of the valley below as well as the Overlook parking area. From here, you can see in the distance the other areas the trail will take you. The Escarpment Trail is 2.4 miles long (one-way) and is predominantly flat, so a relatively easy hike.
Pictures: Views from Glen Doone – Looking Back at the Overlook Parking Area | Valley Below
As you hike the Escarpment Trail towards the Visitor Center, you’ll hike through the Overlook Parking area again. Then as you round the bend at La Grange Bush, you’ll see another point and get a view of the Visitor Center.
Picture: View from La Grange Bush looking towards the Visitor Center.
Indian Ladder Trail
About halfway along the Escarpment Trail, just past La Grange Bush, you’ll come to the Indian Ladder Trail, 0.44 miles long. There is some elevation on this trail as you first descend a flight of stairs, then back up on the other side. However, I would HIGHLY recommend taking this trail. This trail will give you a close-up view of the cliffs as well as an opportunity to hike under the cliffs. But the best part of the trail – the two waterfalls that you pass under, first Minelot Falls, and then Outlet Creek Falls.
Pictures: Trail Under the Escarpment | Trail along the Escarpment
Pictures: Minelot Falls
Picture: Outlet Creek Falls
Pictures: Along the Indian Ladder Trail
As you ascend on the other side of the Indian Ladder Trail, you’ll come upon the Visitor Center and Thatcher Point. It’s a beautiful building with a spectacular view and a great place for events. The day we were there, they had just finished a wedding.
Picture: The Visitor CenterPicture: Vicki and Me along the Escarpment TrailPicture: View from Thatcher Point
The Squeeze Box
When we reached the end of the Escarpment Trail, we continued a little further and came across the Squeeze Box – the entrance to the Rock Climbing area. If you can’t fit through here, you won’t be able to fit through Helm’s Crevice, the access point to the Rock Climbing area. It’s tight as you can see!!!
Pictures: The Squeeze Box | Helm’s Crevice
Back to Glen Doone
At this point, we turned around and headed back to Glen Doone and our car. However, when we got to the Visitor Center and the Indian Ladder Trail, we continued along the ridge and on the Escarpment Trail. On this part of the trail, you cross the streams that become the waterfalls on the Indian Ladder Trail. It was a fun day of hiking and I would definitely recommend a visit to John Boyd Thatcher State Park! Bring a picnic and spend the day exploring the trails and enjoying the panoramic views.
This is the first post in a new blog section I’m calling Fun Finds. While most of my travel posts fall neatly into state high points or best state parks, this is where everything else goes—the unexpected stops, oddball places, and things you only notice when you slow down and take the back roads.
