So after a bit of a delay and some crazy weather in Oxford, Alabama (a story for another time) – I was back on track to explore new parks and climb more mountains!
DeSoto State Park is off of I-59 between Birmingham, AL, and Chattanooga, TN, and is very close to the Georgia border. It is located in Ft. Payne, AL – which ironically made me think of the Damon Wayans movie – Major Payne. “What are you laughing at, pig-boy? You find a piece of candy in your pocket?” I digress again…
About the Park and some fun facts!
Desoto State Park is nestled atop beautiful Lookout Mountain in scenic Northeast Alabama and is the home of many rushing waterfalls and fragrant wildflowers that will simply take your breath away. (the park’s website words, not mine). The park is split into two parts – DeSoto State Park and DeSoto Falls – both linked by the West Fork of the Little River – but DeSoto Falls is 6 miles north of the main park. DeSoto State Park has plenty to do: kayaking, fishing, swimming, 25 miles of hiking trails, 11 miles of mountain bike trails, rappelling, bouldering, picnicking, and camping.
The park, which bears the name of 16th-century explorer Hernando de Soto, was developed in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) and known as State Park No. 5. When it was dedicated as Desoto State Park on May 24, 1939, it was the largest state park in Alabama. The park’s museum celebrating the CCC’s work in Alabama state parks opened in 2013. Fun Fact: Hernando de Soto was the first European documented as having crossed the Mississippi River. More Jeopardy! trivia for you!
Pictures: Main Park Trail Map | DeSoto Falls Trail Map
DeSoto Waterfall – 3 different views!
I should note first about this post – I try to take copious notes when hiking and visiting parks as I know that I may not post about it for several days or in this case several months. However, the notes for this visit somehow disappeared into the digital universe. So it is forcing me to jog my memory a bit and actually exercise my brain! Not the worst thing to happen, but I may not get every detail correct.
I decided to check out DeSoto Falls first as it was a beautiful day. To get there from DeSoto State Park from the Country Store in the main park, head north to Alabama-89 and turn left. The road will veer right at Wade Gap (but it’s still Alabama-89). Continue until you reach Tutwiler Gap and Alabama-163, turn right here. You know you are in the right place if you see a colorful directional sign on a tree. Alabama-163 will eventually turn into DeSoto Falls Road and dead end into the Picnic Area parking lot (which has a fee of $4 per vehicle – but see my note later in this post). As you are driving toward the Picnic Area, you will see a small gravel parking lot on the right hand side – this is the parking lot for the River and Overlook Trailheads. I started my visit.
From this spot – you can reach two of the views of DeSoto Falls. I decided to go to the Basin first and thus took the River Trail. The trailhead is to the right and closer to the road. River Trail is 0.7-miles one-way (Note: I did a combination of trails though – but it still was a total of 0.7-miles one-way). The initial part of the River Trail is down hill slightly and a bit rocky, yet easy to navigate. On this trail you’ll pass several large boulders which are so common to the area. Shortly into the hike, I saw the turnoff for Bluff Trail (0.32-miles in distance) and decided to take it. At this point, I think I was winging it a bit, but I wasn’t too worried as the area isn’t so big that you could get lost. Bluff Trail was a bit steep and continued to be rocky, but nothing too challenging. You’ll pass a cave, and more boulders. Eventually it connects back with the River Trail – where it’s a flat hike out to the Basin.
Pictures: The upper River Trail
Pictures: The Bluff Trail turnoff | The Bluff Trail
Pictures: Along the lower River Trail
When you get to the Basin, you’ll see why you hiked down as you’re rewarded with a massive pool and a spectacular view of the 104-foot waterfall. It was hot enough that if I had the right clothes, I would have taken a dip. Side note: Much of the park information is inconsistent – I have seen park info noting that the falls are anywhere from 5.5 miles to 7 miles north of the park and that the falls are 104 feet and then 107 feet high. Personally, I think they need to hire a proofreader!
Pictures: DeSoto Fals
After taking in the view, I headed back up the hill to the Overlook Trail and view #2. As you hike up, you’ll pass a bench in case you need to rest a bit – I pushed on. It took me about 40 minutes out and back to do the 1.4 miles – using both The River and Bluff Trails. You connect to the Overlook Trail near the trailhead.
Pictures: Bench | Along the Bluff Trail
The Overlook Trail is pretty flat and an easy 0.9 miles out and back. The beginning of the trail parallels the River and Bluff Trails – giving you a view of the trails below. The Bluff Trail also has a bench rest and take in the scenery. Eventually, you are rewarded with view #2 of DeSoto Falls – although you are a bit further away from the falls than from the basin. Also, as it was the middle of summer, the trees were full and blocked some of the views. Personally, I preferred the view from the Basin – not only were you closer, but it gave you a better appreciation of how high the falls are.
Pictures: Looking down on the trails below from the Overlook Trail
Pictures: The Bluff Trail
Pictures: DeSoto Falls from the Overlook
With two views of the falls down, I decided to head back to the main park and check into my campsite. I chose the Wall Tent Campsite – it’s still rustic and in the Primitive Campground, but it saved me the time of setting up and breaking down my own tent. It was also on a raised platform, keeping me dry – although it hadn’t rained, nor was rain in the forecast. I got settled into camp and then decided to hike a bit more as I still had a few more hours of sunlight.
Pictures: The Primitive Campground Entrance | The Wall Tent Site – courtesy of the Boy Scouts
Falls without Falls
For the afternoon hike, I decided to go on the Orange, Blue, and Red Trails for a total distance of about 4 miles on just the trails. My campsite was just a short distance to the road, so I decided to hike to the Lost Falls (Orange) trailhead instead of driving. I walked out to the main road, then down the road for about a half-mile to the trailhead – adding another 1-mile to my afternoon hike. There is a restroom at this trailhead, which is always a good stop before you start a hike. After my brief pit stop, I was off on the Orange Trail – which for the most part well marked but not too exciting – but I did see an interesting looking mushroom. I soon connected with the Blue Trail as I wanted to see some of the other waterfalls. As a note: for the most part the Orange and Blue Trails run parallel to each other – they are just separated by Laurel Creek.
Pictures: The Orange Trail | Cool looking Mushroom
Pictures: Hiking along the Blue Trail
The first falls to find – Lost Falls. Well, it was certainly lost or maybe it was me, because I passed it and had to double back to check it out – but in my defense, none of the falls are marked well! Sad to say, the creek was pretty dry and Lost Falls was a trickle. The highlight – seeing another cool mushroom!
Pictures: Along the Blue Trail with a cool greenish mushroom
I pressed on towards Laurel Falls. Another note: The trail was a bit overgrown here and I kept wondering if anything was hiding in the grass and going to bite me as I wasn’t hiking with poles. Happy to say, I finished unscathed – no snake bites.
Once I connected to the road, I hiked uphill a little and then connected to the Red Trail. The Red Trail is an interesting trail – it not only is one of North Alabama’s Birding Trails and home to many of North Alabama bird species, such as Belted Kingfishers, as well as migratory birds that winter in Central and South America, Warblers, and Thrushes – but it is also a raised, boardwalk trail, allowing access to those who are physically challenged. I was happy to see it as I am very supportive of making outdoor experiences all-inclusive.
Pictures: Birding Trail | Birds of North Alabama
Pictures: The Boardwalk Trail
Pictures: Along the Boardwalk Trail
I soon connected back to the Orange Trail and made my way back to the trailhead, then to camp. As I was getting settled into my camp for the night, a ranger stopped by to check in and make sure I had a reservation and that I didn’t need anything. I really think he was seeing if I had any contraband – i.e. alcohol. After a short conversation, off he went. I made a fire, watched the fireflies, and enjoyed the peace and quiet.
Day 2 at DeSoto
Although I probably could have seen everything in one day, I was happy to stay in the park. I was up early the next morning – had a quick breakfast and then headed out for my planned hikes. First up – Indian Falls, which is near the Boardwalk Trailhead from yesterday. It’s a quick hike from the parking lot to the falls, but to no surprise, it was dry – so a bit disappointing. So a quick visit and off to the next hike.
Pictures: Indian Falls Area
Pictures: Indian Falls
I drove down to the Lodge, where I parked, and hiked a portion of the Yellow and the Green Trails to see Lodge Falls and the West Fork of the Little River. The Little River was nice, but the falls were a disappointment due to the lack of water.
Pictures: West Fork of the Little River
DeSoto Falls – View #3
I got back in the car and went back north to DeSoto Falls and this time the Picnic Area. And as I mentioned earlier, there is a $4 per vehicle fee, but as I camped in the park, I received a parking pass for here. In all honesty, I wouldn’t pay to park here if it were not included with my camping. I think the other views of the falls are much better. You can walk out to the area above the falls – and then out to an area that will give you a side view of the falls. As I was walking out to the observation area for view #3, I met a really nice couple. They are wild mushroom foragers and actually found wild chanterelles and made eggs with chanterelles for breakfast! I also played ranger and gave them the lay of the land on the falls and hikes they could take.
Pictures: The Upper Falls Area
Pictures: View #3 – from the side | A Look at the Basin from Above
To the left of the dam and the falls is a boat launch. I saw several kayakers and paddle boarders on this portion of the river as you can go upstream a bit. There is also a sandy beach area to hang out and enjoy the sun.
Pictures: West Fork of the Little River | Sandy Beach Area
One of the more interesting parts of this area of the park are the steps down to the observation area. In 2018, DSP Naturalist Brittney Hughes conceived the idea of installing an ambitious public art project at DeSoto Falls—transforming the plain cement stairs leading to the viewing platform into a mosaic work of art. On each of the 43 ‘risers’ is a mosaic of colorful stained glass pieces – each riser is a separate piece of art but seen collectively they create a design that is pleasing to the eye. Brittney’s design features the West Fork of Little River flowing down the length of the steps, and a famous John Muir quote in the middle of the design: “Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul”~ John Muir.
Pictures: The Public Art Project and the Mosaic Risers
With DeSoto State Park checked off my list, I headed towards Georgia and Cloud Canyon State Park!
Dates of Visit: 17 & 18 August 2023
