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Sunrise illuminating the summit glacier on Mount Kilimanjaro, with ice formations in the foreground and a sea of clouds in the background.

Tag: Camping

Devil’s Lake State Park | Wisconsin

Popular is an Understatement!

Calling Devil’s Lake State Park “popular” is like calling the Grand Canyon “a big hole”—a serious understatement! This place is the ultimate playground, with a sandy beach, picnic areas, and trails even the most leisurely strollers can handle. It reminded me of Lincoln Woods State Park in Rhode Island, especially when I was high up on the West Bluff trail, still catching the sounds of beachside fun. Locals flock here like it’s the first sunny day in ages, and with a $16 car fee for non-residents ($13 for residents), that popularity comes at a price. So, if you’re planning a visit, be ready for crowds, long waits, and packed parking lots—especially on weekends and holidays. As Wisconsin’s DNR warns, “Visitors to Devil’s Lake should expect long wait times and busy parking lots from May through October on weekends and holidays. Parking lots often fill before 9 a.m., and access to the park may be temporarily restricted until congestion lessens.”

Pictures: North Entrance | Sign Near the North Shore Concession Area – Popular for Pictures!

Legend has it . . .

Over 14,000 years ago, during the last Ice Age, Devil’s Lake in Wisconsin was born—not out of anything devilish, but thanks to retreating glaciers. These icy giants carved out the stunning lake we see today, cradled by towering bluffs. The Ho-Chunk people, the original caretakers of this land, called it Tee Wakącąk, honoring its deep spiritual significance as a sacred place.

When European settlers showed up, they often misunderstood or overlooked the spiritual importance of such sites. That’s how “Devil’s Lake” came to be, even though names like “Lake of the Two Hills” or “Wild Beauty Lake” would have been a better fit. But the mysterious, slightly spooky name stuck, adding an extra layer of intrigue.

In 1911, Devil’s Lake was officially designated a state park, preserving this natural wonder for all to enjoy. Today, the park covers over 9,200 acres, offering endless opportunities for adventure. Whether you’re hiking the rugged bluffs, paddling across the crystal-clear waters, or just soaking in the view, remember: this isn’t just a pretty spot. It’s a place steeped in history, shaped by glaciers, revered by the Ho-Chunk, and with a story stretching back over 14,000 years.

Picture: Park Map

Two Fun Filled Days of Adventure

After my morning hike at Parfrey’s Glen Natural Area (right next door to Devil’s Lake State Park), I made my way to the North Entrance of Devil’s Lake for two full days of exploring and adventure. With all the hype around this place, I wanted to take my time and soak it all in, not rush through it. As I mentioned in my Parfrey’s Glen post, I grabbed a parking voucher to redeem at a State Park Office—conveniently, there’s one right at Devil’s Lake. The whole process of getting the annual pass was a breeze. I pulled into a spot, slapped the pass on my rental SUV, and voilà—free entry to any Wisconsin State Park for the rest of 2024, as long as I stick with the same rental car! 🤣🤣🤣

Pictures: Day 1 – West Bluff Trail | Day 2 – East Bluff Trail

Attention Walmart Customers

With the day still young and the park not too crowded, I decided to make a quick run to the local Walmart for some provisions. I’ll admit, Walmart is one of my go-to spots when I’m hiking or road-tripping. That, Aldi, and if I’m lucky, Trader Joe’s—predictable and reasonably priced.

Next up: firewood. Here’s the deal—don’t move firewood! Seriously, buy it where you burn it. There’s even a whole organization and website dedicated to this cause, complete with state-specific regulations: DontMoveFirewood.org. In Wisconsin, if you’re buying uncertified wood, it must originate within 10 miles of the park. The responsible choice? Get your wood from the park or a certified dealer. From my experience, park prices are usually on par with roadside stands. So, do the right thing and buy local!

Paved Trails and City Folk

With provisions and local firewood in hand, I headed back to the park. The parking lot was starting to fill up, though it wasn’t packed yet—probably a bit too early for the city folk, lol. I made a quick detour to the gift shop to grab my obligatory postcards. Yep, I’m that person who still loves sending postcards from my travels—call me old school, but it’s a blast. After stashing my new postcards in the car, I figured I’d take advantage of the decent weather (overcast, with rain lurking in the forecast) and hit the West Bluff Trail. It’s a 1.4-mile trek that takes you to the South Shore.

Starting from the North Shore beach and picnic area, the trail kicks off with a stair workout—210 steps, if you’re counting, before it finally flattens out. As I climbed, I noticed the steps were paved. It didn’t really bother me at first—I just figured they did it to keep the stairs from eroding. But when I got to the top and realized the entire trail was paved, I was a bit thrown off. It’s hard to feel like you’re out in nature when the ground beneath your shoes is as smooth as a city sidewalk. Plus, the downslopes were slippery with even the tiniest hint of moisture. Maybe they paved it to handle the wear and tear of thousands of hikers? Still, it felt like I’d never really left the city.

Pictures: West Bluff Trailhead | West Bluff Trail – it starts out like a real trail

Pictures: The beginning of the 210 Stairs | The Paved Trail

Speaking of city vibes, the closer I got to the bluff, the more I could hear the holiday weekend crowd. The beach and picnic area were buzzing with laughter and music. And just to drive the point home, as I rounded a corner, I bumped into three women, one of whom was blasting tunes on her phone, shattering the natural silence.

Picture: The North Beach, Picinic and Concession Area – before the crowds!

Despite the paved trail and city folk, the West Bluff Trail serves up some seriously spectacular views of the lake and surrounding area. You’ll find yourself constantly stopping for photos—just when you think you’ve nailed the perfect shot, a new angle pops up, and you’re snapping away again.

Pictures: A rare moment where I’m not snapping a selfie! I had to give some directions for this shot. The rock is actually hanging off the cliff, but it didn’t quite come out as I pictured. Oh well.

Pictures: Devil’s Lake looking North, then South

Picture: Some of the incredible cliffs you’ll encounter on the West Bluff Trail

What goes up, must come down! As I approached the South Shore, it was time to tackle another set of stairs. Emerging from the trees, I found myself at the start of the Tumbled Rocks Trail (more on that in a bit).

Holy Snake Batman!

I decided to walk along the South Shore before heading back to the North Shore, and boy, am I glad I did! I always try to stay sharp when I’m out hiking, hoping to catch those rare, magical glimpses of nature. As I wandered along the rocky shore, peering through the boulders, my eye landed on a Water Snake lounging on a rock. As I looked closer, I could see the outline of a fish in its belly! Clearly, the little guy was taking a breather to digest its meal. How cool is that? Later, a volunteer at the nature center told me that while these snakes aren’t venomous, they pack a nasty bite that hurts like heck. Good to know if I ever decide to take a dip in the lake!

Pictures: Spotted a Water Snake! | Close-up—check out the fish in its belly on the right

Knowing I had another day to soak up the adventure, I planned to conquer the East Bluff from North Shore to South Shore. I headed back to the Tumbled Rocks Trail, a one-mile trek that snakes along the lake’s edge through a sprawling boulder field. These massive boulders stretch from the water’s edge up to the bluff’s rim, and looking up at them, I couldn’t help but be reminded of the boulder field on Abol Trail at Mt. Katahdin. The trail here is well-carved and easy to navigate—no steep stair-climbing required, which means it’s a bit of a hotspot. Despite the crowd, I decided to kick things up a notch with a trail run back to the North Shore.

Pictures: Tumbled Rock Trailhead – South Shore | View along the Tumbled Rock Trail | Tumbled Rock Trail

So, off I went, running along the Tumbled Rocks Trail. The boulder fields really did give me flashbacks to the Abol Trail on Katahdin. It was a fun run, and for the most part, folks were kind enough to step aside as I approached. Before I knew it, I was back at the North Shore—aka picnic central—and figured it was high time to check into my campsite.

Pictures: The Boulder Field along Tumbled Rock Trail (Pro tip: there’s an easy path through it!)

The Entertainment in People Watching

Devil’s Lake boasts three campgrounds with a total of 423 campsites. Mine was in the Quartzite Campground, right by the North Entrance. Off I went to track down my site and get everything set up. Now, setting up doesn’t take me long because, on this trip, I’m camping in the back of my SUV. All I had to do was unload the firewood, set up my chair, plug in the extension cord, and pop those cool mesh screens onto the back windows. These screens are a game-changer—they slip over the door frame, letting fresh air in while keeping the bugs out. Perfect for a cool breeze as I sleep!

Pictures: My SUV and Camping Set-Up | Mesh Door Screen for a breezy, bug-free night

With some time to spare before sunset (more on that later), I cracked open a beer and grabbed some snacks. Shoutout to my buddy Peter from Australia—check out the beer cozy in the pic! It’s for the female jazz trio Tokyo Groove Jyoshi. Peter’s managing the band, and I got to see them live when they recently played in Vegas. Definitely give them a listen!

Pictures: Camping Vibes wtih Tokyo Groove | Tokyo Groove Jyoshi, (from left) Mimi, Rina, Emi.

As I settled in, I found myself unexpectedly entertained by the arrival of more campers. Watching people maneuver their rigs and park their campers turned into a comedy show. The way folks navigated “helpful” advice while hunting for the perfect spot was a masterclass in patience and communication—especially between men and women! It was downright hilarious to see who took charge during the setup and, honestly, what some people deem essential for a camping trip. Overkill, if you ask me, but hey, to each their own! And, okay, I know—I’ve got an extension cord to charge my phone and work on my laptop, so I guess I’m not entirely off the hook either.

Sunset Spectacles and Greased Lightning

I’d heard the sunsets here are nothing short of spectacular, but finding the perfect spot is part of the adventure. So, I set off on the East Bluff Trail, determined to catch the show. As I climbed up to the bluffs, I couldn’t help but notice a group of kids I’d seen earlier at the boat rental and ice cream stands. They were on a mission, heading toward “their” sunset-watching spot like seasoned pros. It was like a scene straight out of Grease—their carefree vibe, their youthful energy—I half expected them to break into song:

Summer lovin’, had me a blast
Summer lovin’, happened so fast
I met a girl crazy for me
Met a boy cute as can be
Summer days drifting away
To uh, oh those summer nights…

Ah, to be young, with the world at your feet—or at least the best sunset view in the park. I found a couple of decent spots to soak in the sunset, but looking back (after hiking the entire East Bluff Trail the next day), I probably should’ve ventured a bit further down the trail for an even more spectacular view. But hey, you live and learn! In the end, I couldn’t complain—perched on top of the bluff, watching the sun dip below the horizon, was pretty magical.

Picture: Golden hour magic as the sun dips below the horizon

As the sun finally disappeared below the horizon, I made my way back to my campsite, ready to cap off the day in style. I fired up the campfire, cracked open a cold one, and dug into some well-earned snacks. After a day of hiking and soaking in epic views, there’s no better way to wrap things up than with good food, a warm fire, and a little bit of chill time under the stars.

Those Darn Car Safety Features!

Most campgrounds shut down pretty early, and even have quiet times. Not that you can’t stay up late, but with a big day of hiking ahead, I decided to hit the sack around 10:30 pm. Just as I was getting cozy in my sleeping bag, my car alarm suddenly blared to life. Yep, I was that person. And not just once—the alarm went off three times! So much for a peaceful night. I barely slept, worried it might happen again, and ended up leaving the doors unlocked, which thankfully did the trick. Turns out, if I’d just locked the doors manually instead of using the FOB, the alarm wouldn’t have triggered. Apparently, my car has a safety feature that goes off if it senses weight in the backseat after locking—probably to keep you from accidentally leaving your kid or pet behind. Nice in theory, but not so much for my camping adventure!

Camping Tradition

Isn’t it ironic that people go to bed early when camping but aren’t up at the crack of dawn? I’m not talking 5 AM early—just a solid 8 AM. Come on, folks, seize the day! But enough of my rant; let’s talk morning traditions. For me, it’s all about a dark, cold-brew coffee with a splash of half-and-half. It’s the perfect caffeine fix without needing to fuss over a campfire. Or, I guess I could be like the folks in the camper next to me who just plug in the coffee maker they brought from home.

As I sat there enjoying my coffee, I heard some rustling near the car. Oh great—just what I needed. I’d started a trash bag and planned to toss it on my way to the hike, but those sneaky squirrels got to it first! I know we’re out in nature, but come on! My campsite wasn’t even near the tree line, and yet, these opportunistic little buggers still found their way to my trash. Classic.

Blue Sky Opportunity!

The East Bluff Trailhead was just a half-mile from my campsite, so off I went. The morning greeted me with some blue sky—something I missed the day before—perfect for snapping photos of the lake. Before tackling the East Bluff Trail, I made a quick detour to the lake. I crossed over the train tracks—Wisconsin & Southern has active tracks running along the east side of the lake and between two of the campgrounds. During my stay, I caught a few trains in action, so if you’re exploring near the tracks, keep your eyes peeled!

Picture: Blue skies and morning vibes from the east side of the lake. Perfect start to the day!

Then, it was time for the East Bluff Trail, a breezy 1.1-mile hike down to the Balanced Rock Trail. The trail splits early on: to the left is the East Bluff Woods Trail, and to the right is the East Bluff Trail—the same route I took the night before to catch the sunset. I headed right, where you’ll find some of the park’s iconic features. Just like the West Bluff Trail, you start with a series of stairs leading up to the bluff’s top.

Pictures: East Bluff Trailhead | The beginning of East Bluff Trail

Pictures: Trail Split – East Bluff to the right and East Bluff Woods to the left | The trails are well marked

Pictures: Stairs Leading Up East Bluff Trail | The Rock Where I Sat to Catch the Sunset Last Night

First up is Elephant Rock, which has sparked a bit of debate. Officially, it’s called Elephant Rock, but I’m with the Bison camp on this one—it definitely looks more like a Bison. Maybe Wisconsin should put it on the ballot this November and settle the debate once and for all!

Picture: Elephant Rock – More Like Bison Rock – IMO

As I hiked, I enjoyed the early morning peace—everyone else was either still snoozing or having breakfast. Well, that tranquil vibe didn’t last long. The silence was soon shattered by a family with two kids who thought the forest was their personal playground.

More Views and Oh Yeah – Bugs!

Just like the West Bluff, the East Bluff Trail offers plenty of spots for stunning lake and landscape photos. But unlike yesterday, the bugs were out in force today. I definitely need to up my bug spray game; no matter how much I apply, it feels like they’re on me non-stop. Ugh. Another thing to note: the East Bluff Trail has more varied terrain with some ups and downs, adding a bit more challenge. Nothing too extreme, but worth noting if you’re planning your hike.

Pictures: View of Devil’s Lake from the East Bluff Trail | North Shore Beach with Train Tracks Alongside the Lake

Pictures: Views of Devil’s Lake from the East Bluff Trail

Pictures: Looking towards the North Beach | Some of the Wildlife – A Hawk | Look towards the SOut

Balance Rock or Bust!

When it comes to iconic features of the park, Balance Rock definitely steals the show. But don’t worry about dodging hordes of tourists—this spot has its own set of challenges. I counted 319 steps down, and let’s just say they’re not the easy kind you’d find on the West Bluff Trail. Sure, it gets busy in the summer, but those steps are a pretty effective crowd deterrent. If you’re not too steady on your feet or if hiking isn’t quite your thing, you might want to think twice. However, the trek is definitely worth it—not only for the impressive rock but also for the stunning lake views.

Pictures: Balanced Rock Trail Marker | The Stairs down to Balance Rock

Picture: The Iconic Balanced Rock

Pictures: I love finding cool mushrooms | Seriously?!! – Trash left behind – Please Leave No Trace! | Climbing those stairs: 319 steps to the top!

From there, I continued along the East Bluff Trail for a bit to check out another park favorite: Devil’s Doorway. To get there, you’ll tackle more stairs, but thankfully, not as many as to Balance Rock. Some websites give a heads-up about the steep and uneven stone steps and the narrow rock ledge with drop-offs, warning that hikers need to be extra cautious. And yes, while that’s crucial advice, it goes without saying that you should always stay alert while hiking. Devil’s Doorway is a cool spot with even more fantastic views of the lake, making the careful trek well worth it.

Pictures: Trail Marker to the Devil’s Doorway | Devil’s Doorway

Picture: Devil’s Doorway—The door’s wide open. Come on in, if you dare!

Picture: Super Cool Tree near the Devil’s Doorway

Let the Real Adventure Begin!

With no strict plan and a park like this, I decided to dive into the notorious Potholes Trail. Named for the “potholes” carved into the rocks by ancient waters, this short but intense 0.3-mile trail is said to take up to 2 hours. It’s steep, packed with stairs, and offers a cool feature—a dramatic split in the rock face. I enjoyed the challenge and met a few adventurers braving the climb up the trail as I made my descent.

Pictures: Potholes Trailhead | The Steep Steps down Potholes Trail

Pictures: Looking Up—The stairs I tackled on the way down | Near the Split in the Rock

The Potholes Trail eventually dead-ends at the Grotto Trail. This one’s a welcome contrast—a wide, easy-going path that winds through the woods at the base of the bluffs. The Grotto Trail is not just easy on the legs but also features hidden gems called Grottos. These are natural cold air sinks where chilly air from beneath the rocky bluff creates refreshing hideouts on sweltering summer days. Sadly, I think I missed these cool spots!

Pictures: Junction of Potholes Trail and Grotto Trail | Looking up Potholes Trail from Grotto Trail

As I strolled leisurely down the Grotto Trail, I had plenty of time to ponder and reflect. One perk of the Potholes Trail is that it’s a bit of a quiet escape with hardly any kids around. The same vibe continues on the Grotto Trail—head away from the beach and easy-access trails, and you’ll find fewer families and more peace. As I made my way, I couldn’t help but mentally prepare for the climb back up to the East Bluff. More stairs are definitely in my future!

Pictures: Along the Grotto Trail—A lush paradise with a totally different feel from the Bluff Trails!

Boulder Field and Rock Climbers

As I rounded the bend on the Grotto Trail, I connected with the CCC Trail and looked up—yep, I was definitely in for a steep climb! The good news? It wasn’t as tough as I’d braced myself for. I got my wish to hike through the boulder field, and while it wasn’t as challenging as Abol Trail in Maine, the stairs carved into the boulders made the ascent a bit easier. The views up here are stunning, and you quickly realize how far you’ve climbed away from the lake below. It’s a great reminder of the expansive beauty of the park.

Pictures: Gazing up at the Boulder Field I’m about to tackle | Where the Grotto Trail and CCC Trail Cross Paths

Pictures: The CCC Trail through the Boulder Field

At the top, I encountered a lively group of climbers, many of whom looked like a school group on an adventure. They were scaling a small cliff with impressive enthusiasm. Major kudos to them—I’m not sure I’d have the guts for that kind of climb! After soaking in the scene and catching my breath, I decided to make my way back along the East Bluff Trail. Instead of retracing my steps, I opted for the East Bluff Woods Trail, which is about a 1.3-mile hike back to where I started this morning. This route is a bit longer but much easier on the ascent to Balanced Rock compared to the East Bluff Trail.

Pictures: Climbers’ Ropes | A View That Shows Just How Far You’ve Hiked from the Lake

Pictures: Trekking Along the East Bluff Woods Trail | Beware: Steep Hill Sign for Mountain Bikers

All in all, it was a fantastic day of hiking and exploring. I made the short trek back to my campsite—a mere 0.6 miles—eager for some well-deserved eats – another camp staple, grilled cheese – and cold drinks. A roaring campfire capped off the perfect end to an adventurous day. There’s nothing like relaxing by the fire after a day of epic trails and breathtaking views!

Picture: A Camping Staple – Skillet Grilled Cheese Perfection!

Top Activities at Devil’s Lake State Park

With 29 miles of scenic trails, two sandy beaches, and endless outdoor adventures, Devil’s Lake State Park is your playground of natural beauty. Pack a picnic, grab a paddle, or even tackle some towering cliffs—this park has it all. Ready to dive in? Let’s explore the top activities that make this place a must-visit!

  • Hiking and Nature Trails
    Lace up those boots! Whether you’re after a heart-pounding trek up the West Bluff or a peaceful stroll along the East Bluff, Devil’s Lake has trails for every kind of hiker. Expect jaw-dropping views, especially when the fall colors hit—perfect for that Insta-worthy shot!
  • Water Activities
    Dive into the fun with a kayak, canoe, or paddleboard rental right at the lake. Whether you’re paddling across the glassy waters or fishing for bass, this 360-acre lake is your perfect summer escape. Don’t forget to bring your sunscreen—this is where sun-soaked memories are made!
  • Rock Climbing and Bouldering
    Got a taste for adventure? The quartzite cliffs here are calling your name! With some peaks towering over 500 feet, it’s a climber’s paradise. New to climbing? No worries! Local outfitters offer rock climbing and bouldering lessons, so you can conquer those heights like a pro.
  • Wildlife Watching
    Bring your binoculars because Devil’s Lake is a wildlife wonderland! Spot white-tailed deer prancing through the woods or keep your eyes peeled for majestic eagles soaring overhead. Whether you’re a seasoned birdwatcher or just love critters, the park’s diverse habitats have something wild to offer.
  • Camping Under the Stars
    End your day the right way—under a blanket of stars! Set up camp and enjoy a night filled with s’mores, stories, and stargazing. With campsites ranging from rustic to RV-ready, there’s a spot for everyone to enjoy the park’s peaceful nighttime vibes

The Devil’s Lake Wrap-Up

So, Devil’s Lake—what a trip! If you’re into stunning views, a mix of laid-back and challenging trails, and some serious people-watching (I’m looking at you, campers), then this park should be on your list. But if I’m honest, it probably won’t top my all-time favorites. Sure, it’s got everything you need for a great adventure, but the paved trails and crowded hotspots made it feel a bit more like a city escape than a true nature getaway. Still, the lake’s beauty and those epic bluffs are worth the hike—just maybe on a quieter day. Whether you’re chasing sunsets, scrambling up rocks, kayaking, or sun-bathing on the beach, Devil’s Lake has its own unique charm. Just don’t forget to pack your sense of humor and a healthy dose of patience—trust me, you’ll need both!

Dates of Visit: 7 & 8 July, 2024

Backbone State Park | Iowa

Back At It!

I’m back at it after a winter hiatus from Highpointing and exploring the Discoverer’s List of The Best State Park in Each State! This month’s adventure revolves around “summiting” Charles Mound, the highest natural point in Illinois. This peak sits on private land, and the gracious owners open it to the public the first weekend of June, July, August, and September, from sunrise to sunset. More on that in my next post!

With these key dates in mind, I embarked on my journey. I flew from sunny San Diego, California, to Minneapolis, Minnesota, where I rented an SUV for my month-long journey through the upper Midwest. I’ll be mixing it up between camping in my trusty SUV and staying at a few hotels along the way. I opted to spend the night in Rochester, Minnesota, and picked up some sundries on the way to my hotel. I don’t normally do this, but I ordered everything ahead of time and drove up to the store to have it placed in the back of my SUV. Talk about a game changer and it saved me a ton of time! The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, I headed for my first stop, Backbone State Park in Dundee, Iowa.

Should a Name Worry You?

We’ve all heard the story: Greenland and Iceland were named with a bit of strategy (and perhaps a touch of mischief). Greenland isn’t exactly a lush paradise, and Iceland isn’t just a block of ice. As I cruised through the charming back roads of Minnesota, I stumbled upon the towns of Harmony and Prosper. Did early settlers name these towns hoping to manifest a little extra luck and good vibes? I wouldn’t be surprised!

Picture: Harmony, Minnesota | Population 1,043

Then, as I meandered through Decorah, Iowa, I spotted signs for the Laura Ingalls Wilder Park and Museum. Shockingly, I learned she was a real person, not just a character from the 70’s and 80’s TV Show “Little House on the Prairie.” Who knew? Apparently, there are several museums, and this one marks her home from 1876-1877. Laura was a writer who penned a beloved series of children’s books about her childhood, aptly titled “Little House on the Prairie.”

And on a completely unrelated note: isn’t it funny how even the tiniest towns in America boast either a Mexican or Chinese restaurant? Next time you’re on a road trip, see if you can spot one!

Backbone State Park and the CCC

I’ve noticed a trend with the Discoverer’s List—many places owe their existence to the hardworking Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) or were among the first state parks in their area and Backbone State Park fits both categories. The CCC built many of the park’s amenities, including roads, trails, and the historic Stone Lodge, which remains a popular spot for gatherings and events. Their craftsmanship and dedication are evident in the enduring structures that blend seamlessly with the natural environment.

According to the park’s website, “Dedicated in 1920 as Iowa’s first state park, Backbone State Park is one of the most geographically unique locations in Iowa.” That’s no exaggeration! While Iowa may bring to mind sprawling farms and flat plains, Backbone State Park breaks the mold with its more rugged terrain. The Maquoketa River’s carved, steep ridge—dubbed The Devil’s Backbone—rises as the highest point in northeast Iowa, living up to its epic name with an 80-foot ascent above the river. This geological wonder not only defines the park but also offers visitors a glimpse into the area’s rich natural history.

Pictures: South Gate Entrance | About the Civilian Conservation Corp and Iowa Parks

Exploring Backbone’s Natural Wonders

I kicked off my adventure at Backbone State Park by entering through the south entrance and snagging a parking spot near the beach and boathouse. Since it was early and the recent rains had turned the lake a bit muddy, I had the whole place to myself—no one on the beach, no boats on the lake. The boathouse is pretty cool with its rustic charm and vintage vibes. It looks like you can rent paddle boats and canoes there, but it was all closed up on my visit. So after a look around, off I went to explore the rest of the park.

Picture: The Boathouse

Pictures: From the Boathouse – The Beach and the Rental Boats

I started my trek on the East Lake Trail, a 2.4-mile path skirting the lake. It wasn’t the easiest to find at first—I had to do a bit of wandering before finally spotting a trail marker.  The initial stretch was a little overgrown, not my idea of a fun hike, but certainly added to the adventure. But as I pressed on, the path opened up, becoming clearer and more inviting. The trail was surprisingly quiet, with only a few people around. I did spot three guys fishing, totally soaking in the peace and quiet. Navigating around a few fallen trees was no big deal, and the rock formations were giving me major upstate New York vibes, which was a cool surprise. Despite the muddy waters and high lake levels from recent rains, the trail offered nice views and a serene experience. About halfway through, I stumbled upon the Bluebird Trail, an easy and inviting 2.2-mile detour, perfect for those looking for a gentler hike.

Pictures: The East Lake Trail Marker? | Beginning of the East Lake Trail | One of the many fallen trees

Pictures: Some of the many Rock Formations

As I continued along the East Lake Trail, I ended up veering off track a bit. I quickly realized that the trails at Backbone State Park aren’t exactly the most well-marked. After crossing a bridge, I unintentionally went straight instead of taking the right path. After some backtracking, I found my way back on track, thanks to seeing some hikers in the distance coming from the direction I needed to go in. There were a few pesky flies buzzing around, but I chuckled seeing them donning full-head nets—I initially thought it was a bit over the top. Little did I know, they would have the last laugh as you’ll find out later.

Pictures: Another Rock Formation | The North End of the Lake | Part of the East Lake Trail

Enter in the City Folk

Ah, city folk—those urban adventurers who brave the great outdoors! The Backbone Trail seems to attract them like moths to a flame. It’s the park’s namesake, it’s flat as a pancake, and at just 0.8 miles, it’s perfect for a quick jaunt. As I came up to the parking lot, I braced myself for the urban invasion. Take a deep breath and prepare for the experience!

I’m pleased to report that, by and large, everyone was civilized and respectful on the trail. Having hiked all over the country and read up on this trail, I was expecting a bit more of an adrenaline rush. It’s wide enough, with a few spots near the edge that might make you gulp (especially for someone afraid of heights), but nothing too heart-stopping.

Pictures: The Backbone Trailhead | The Backbone Trail

Pictures: Views of the Maquoketa River as it winds around both sides of the Devil’s Backbone

Pictures: Along the Backbone Trail

Quirky Moment

From the Backbone Trail, I ventured towards the Six Pines Trail, a short 0.6-mile path that surprisingly led me directly to the Six Pines Campground. Getting to this trailhead was a mix of road and trail, making me wonder why the trails aren’t better connected in such a sprawling park. Later, heading from the East Entrance up to Richmond Springs, I encountered a similar situation—only road access was available.

Anyway, at the Six Pines Trailhead, a car pulled up, and out stepped a woman with a distinct foreign accent, casually puffing on a cigarette. She started up the trail ahead of me but then suddenly veered off into the woods between two marked paths. Not sure where she was headed, but hey, to each their own. This trail had some awesome elevation changes and plenty of valleys to explore.

Pictures: Along the Six Pines Trail

Lost Opportunity

Backbone State Park has camping options for everyone. The South Lake Campground offers modern amenities like electric hookups and showers, all nestled among the trees for that perfect nature-immersed experience. On the flip side, the Six Pines Campground gives off a more secluded, primitive camping vibe. Since it was a summer holiday weekend, online booking required a minimum stay of two nights—Friday and Saturday. Planning for just one night, I kept my options open, knowing walk-ups were possible if space was available. After a day of exploring the park, I set my sights eastward, prepping for my next adventure at Charles Mound.

It’s worth noting that when I stumbled upon the Six Pines Campground, it was completely empty—a missed opportunity in my opinion! While I didn’t check South Lake, there might have been some availability there too. Honestly, the Iowa park system could really benefit from a savvy revenue manager for their online bookings. Just a thought!

Picture: The Empty Six Pines Campground (this is Saturday, day 2 of the weekend requirement)

Oh, the Mosquito Saga!

The last trail before I ventured up to the northern part of the park was the West Lake Trail, a 3.0-mile journey that looped me back to the parking lot and boathouse. Right at the start, I crossed a bridge over a swollen, muddy creek—definitely not your average trickle. On the other side, the trail was a squelchy mess, teeming with mosquitoes. They let up once I pushed past the marshy spots, but it was still a battle of wills.

The hike itself was pleasant enough, though a tad monotonous. I was itching (literally!) to get back to the car and explore the northern reaches of the park. So, I trudged onward, and eventually, the trail wound me around from the beach and over the dam that created the lake.

Pictures: The bridge over the swollen creek and a warning sign about high water

Pictures: The View across the Lake | The Dam

Should of gotten the Ice Cream!

I finally made it back to the parking area, and the little shop was open. The park was getting busier and there were even people on the beach and swimming. (I guess the water wasn’t as muddy as I thought in the lake). I stopped by the little shop, tempted by the advertised smoothies. Unfortunately, it was more like a sugary slushy than a real smoothie – definitely a poor choice. Next time, I’ll stick with ice cream! Also, a shop without postcards? That’s a definite red flag. Lesson learned, folks!

Pictures: The Smoothie Sign | Inside the Shop | My Mango “Smoothie”

No easy way

So, just like with the trails, the roads in the park aren’t exactly seamlessly connected. I had to exit through the South Gate and loop around to the East Gate—a bit of a detour, about a 3-mile trek. The East Gate boasts an old-school sign, likely put up by the CCC back in the day. As you drive in, you’ll spot the Maquoketa River Scenic Overlook, which I hiked below earlier in the day. Unfortunately, thanks to all the lush vegetation, the view wasn’t exactly panoramic right now.

Heading north, the road winds for a little over 3 miles. Near the end, there’s a trail called the Barred Owl Trail that I considered hiking initially, but it’s just 0.4 miles and didn’t seem too thrilling. Along the way, there are a few pit stops. The first one is Balanced Rock, which took me a hot minute to actually find—it’s not exactly conspicuous, unlike the one I’ll tell you about at Devil’s Lake State Park in Wisconsin.

Pictures: The East Gate Sign | Maquoketa River Scenic Overlook | The Overlook View?

A not so Scary Cave, but Scary Springs

Next on the road trip agenda was The Cave. It’s just a short hike from the parking lot—nothing too deep or terrifying, as caves go. Near the parking area, the creek flows under the road, and whoever designed it built tunnels that create these cool whirlpools before the water disappears under the road.

Pictures: The Cave Trailhead | Trail to the Cave | Cool Whirlpool

Picture: The Cave

The final stop on this tour was Richmond Springs. They say it’s a constant 48 degrees, but I wouldn’t dare jump in, even on a scorching hot day. The springs looked a bit spooky, filled with patches that seemed like algae or some kind of growth.

Pictures: Richmond Springs | The Growth in the Springs

My take on Backbone State Park

Reflecting on my visit to Backbone State Park brought back memories of my childhood trips to Green Lakes State Park in upstate New York. Living nearby, it was a fantastic spot for picnics, camping, fishing, hitting the beach on hot summer days, or hiking the many trails. It was the perfect getaway into nature. But in retrospect, would it be a park I’d make a special trip to as a destination? Probably not. When I think about the best park in each state, I feel it should rival a National Park, and honestly, Backbone State Park didn’t quite hit that mark. Is it a fun park? Absolutely. Would I go there if I lived nearby? Hell yes.

Date of Visit: 6 July 2024

Picture: Park Map

Natural Bridge State Park | VA

An Intro for those Jeopardy! Players

Natural Bridge in Virginia is a geological marvel, standing at 215 feet high and 90 feet wide, carved by Cedar Creek. This natural limestone arch was considered sacred by the Monacan Indian Nation. George Washington surveyed the bridge for Lord Fairfax in 1750. Legend has it that Washington carved his initials into the rock, which visitors can still see today. Oh George, defacing our natural resources? 🤦‍♂️ Maybe the story about him chopping down his father’s Cherry Tree wasn’t a myth? In 1774, Thomas Jefferson purchased the bridge and 157 surrounding acres for 20 shillings, about £1 or $4.44 or roughly $7,200 today with inflation. Quite a steal for the bridge! The site also boasts rich biodiversity, with rare plants and wildlife. Natural Bridge became a National Historic Landmark in 1998, reflecting its historical and cultural significance.

Picture: The Natural Bridge

Camping Adventures

The night before my park visit, I stumbled upon Thunder BRidge Campground, a gem I found on HipCamp. This 100-acre site has quite a history—originally built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the ’30s, then a boys’ juvenile detention center and a Big Brothers/Big Sisters camp until 2009. Thunder Bridge offers private tent sites, cozy cabins in the woods, and spacious RV spots on a well-kept green space. The host, Adam, was uber friendly, super chill and helpful.

I met Adam at the entrance and arranged to buy some firewood from him. Note: Always buy local firewood to avoid spreading invasive species—many parks ban non-local wood. Adam drove me to my cabin, Woodpecker 1, and dropped off the wood. I chose a cabin because it wasn’t much more expensive, and I didn’t want to hassle with setting up a tent for just one night. The cabin was spacious, had all I needed, and the bathhouse wasn’t far away, complete with a communal room to charge my phone and laptop.

Pictures: Woodpecker #1

Hungry upon arrival, I used some farm-fresh eggs from my previous Airbnb host to make a delicious egg sandwich. Later, I steamed tamales I’d picked up during my travels. Who says you can’t eat well while camping? It was a chilly night in early October, but I survived and enjoyed the adventure!

Pictures: My Egg Sandwich | Cooking Tamales over the Fire

Pictures: My campsite with the wood from Adam | I love making campfires!

Not All Natural Bridges Are Created Equal

A few months back, I had an amazing time at Kentucky’s Natural Bridge, so I was super pumped to check out Virginia’s version. Spoiler alert: it didn’t quite live up to the hype. Sometimes, beautiful spots get too popular and end up feeling more like theme parks than natural wonders, and that was definitely the vibe here. Let’s just say, Virginia’s Natural Bridge won’t be making my list of favorite state parks.

Pictures: The Visitor Center | LOVE sculpture next to the Visitor Center

First off, the entrance fee. If you’ve read my other posts, you know how I feel about high entrance fees. Sure, parks need money for upkeep, but charging $9 per person (13 and over) can make it pretty pricey for families, especially those on a budget. It gave me flashbacks to the pricey Flume Gorge in New Hampshire.

At the Visitor Center, you’ll find the usual suspects: a gift shop, exhibits, and restrooms. From there, it’s a trek down 137 steps to the Cedar Creek Trail. There are a few other trails in the park, but Cedar Creek Trail is the main event. It’s a fairly easy 2.0-mile round trip with a 400-foot elevation change—most of which is tackled by those stairs down to the Trail Store, where you pay your $9 fee at a small window.

Pictures: The start of the walk down to the Trail Store

Picture: Trail Map

A short walk from the store brings you to the Natural Bridge. It’s a cool geological formation, carved over millennia, but it didn’t quite wow me like Kentucky’s. And here’s where things get a bit theme park-ish: rows of benches and spotlights facing the bridge. For almost a century, the bridge has been illuminated on the last Saturday night of every month from April to October. They recreate the first light show from 1927, with the 200-foot-tall arch lit from above and below while Cedar Creek murmurs below. Sounds kind of magical, right? But still, at $9 a pop, it feels a bit commercial.

Pictures: The Natural Bridge – complete with a spotlight in the foreground | Natural Bridge from the other side – notice all the benches at the end of the trail

A Journey Through Time

Walking along Cedar Creek Trail at Natural Bridge State Park in Virginia is like stepping back in time. The trail offers a glimpse into the rich history of the Monacan Indian Nation through its living history exhibit, although it was closed during my visit. This exhibit usually showcases the Monacan way of life, offering insights into their daily activities, traditions, and skills. But based on the pictures, needs a little work.

Pictures: The Monacan Indian Exhibit

Continuing along the trail, you’ll encounter the Saltpeter Cave, a significant historical site used during the War of 1812 for mining saltpeter, a key ingredient in gunpowder. Cool history, but not much to it. Next, you’ll reach Lace Falls, a 30-foot waterfall that provides a serene and picturesque stop. It was nice, but wouldn’t hit my top 100 waterfalls that I have seen.

Pictures: The Saltpeter Cave

Pictures: Views along Cedar Creek Trail

Pictures: Cool Rock on the Trail | Asters or Symphyotrichum

Picture: Lace Falls

Lastly, the trail features the mysterious “Lost River,” which disappears underground, adding an element of natural wonder to your hike. Each of these sites along Cedar Creek Trail tells a unique story, weaving together the area’s cultural and natural heritage.

Pictures: The “Lost River”

I finished my visit back at the Visitor Center to buy some postcards and use the restroom. And since I was there, I decided head downstairs and check out the exhibits. The staff was super cool and showed me the star of the exhibits, a beautiful Eastern Indigo Snake, by the name of Margarita.

Picture: Margarita

Bookend Adventures: The Acorn Inn

Outside of Margarita and yes, the actual Naturall bridge, the hightlights of this trip were camping the night before and then my stay afterwards. Venturing northeast along the Blueridge Parkway from Natural Bridge State Park, I landed in the quaint hills of Faber, Virginia, at the Acorn Inn Bed & Breakfast, about an hour and a half away.

Picture: The Acorn Inn Bed & Breakfast

Nestled amidst the charming hills, Martin and Kathy run this delightful retreat with warmth and flair. Surrounded by lush forests and vineyards, the inn offers a serene escape. Each morning, Kathy’s homemade breakfasts tantalized my taste buds, while Martin brewed some coffee and shared stories and local tips. Turns out, Kathy’s brother shared my college alma mater and major—a small world indeed!

Picture: My Room at the Acorn Inn

Pictures: The Hallway – look at how wide the “stable” doors are! | Communal Men’s Bathroom

Pictures: Communal Living Room | Kitchen (FYI – not set up for cooking) | Banquet Room

Pictures: Outdoor Spaces

With the whole inn to myself for three nights, I soaked in the tranquility. My photos capture the cozy common areas and perfect porch relaxation spots, showing the charm and character oozing from every corner of the inn. How cool is it that the inn was once a stable, transformed by Martin himself? Martin’s craftsmanship is just the start—Kathy’s talent as an artist and photographer shines through the beautiful pieces adorning the walls. I wanted to buy so many of her art pieces! Before opening the Acorn Inn, they lived and worked in Mexico and South America, so the walls are also adorned with folk art, masks, and tapestries from their travels. It’s the perfect spot for remote work and nearby adventures, like exploring the charming town of Nellysford. I couldn’t resist grabbing wine and snacks from Basic Necessities. If you’re in the area, do yourself a favor and check out the Acorn Inn Bed & Breakfast! You won’t regret it.

Pictures: Some of Kathy’s Artwork

Pictures: Some of the Folkart from their Travels & Life in Mexico and South America

Picture: Basic Necessities in Nellsyford | VA

Wrapping Up the Adventure!

As we wrap up this adventure, let’s take a moment to reflect on the highs and lows, the triumphs and tribulations. While Natural Bridge State Park didn’t quite knock my socks off like we hoped (cue sad trombone), my journey wasn’t all doom and gloom. Oh no, my friends, Thunder BRidge Campground was an uber cool find and nestled in the hills of Faber, Virginia, lies a hidden gem—the Acorn Inn Bed & Breakfast, run by the dynamic duo, Martin and Kathy. After all, life’s too short for boring adventures! 🌟

Dates of Visit: 7-12 October 2023

Palo Duro Canyon State Park | Texas

Fog and Cow Manure

The night before I visited Palo Duro Canyon State Park, I stayed in Amarillo, just a short 25-minute drive to the park entrance. When I arrived in Amarillo, the skies were blue, but that morning I woke to dense fog. With the hope of the fog burning off, I ventured out early, only to be greeted by a Texan wake-up call: a lingering essence of cow manure, an aromatic reminder of cattle country.

From Amarillo, I drove south on Interstate 27, then east on Texas 217, a two-lane road. One of the things I appreciate about driving in Texas is the speed limit – 75 mph on both roads! About a mile from the park entrance, you get a glimpse of what you are about to see, and at the time I was thinking how awesome it was going to be.

The Hype is Real!

Palo Duro Canyon State Park lives up to the Texas hype. Known as the “Grand Canyon of Texas,” Palo Duro Canyon, at 120 miles long, and 20 miles wide, is the second largest canyon in the country. The park spans over 28,000 acres and includes 60 miles of the canyon that reaches depths of 800 feet. Home to the iconic Lighthouse rock formation, the park offers 30 miles of hiking, biking, and equestrian trails, many of which traverse million-year-old rock formations. The park’s scenic drive covers 16 miles, providing panoramic views of the canyon’s majestic red cliffs and vibrant colors. Palo Duro Canyon offers a variety of camping options, from primitive sites to RV hook-ups, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the tranquility of the surroundings. As the site of the renowned Texas Outdoor Musical at the Pioneer Amphitheatre, the park combines natural beauty with cultural entertainment. Access to the park costs $8 per person for a day pass, with complimentary admission for children aged 12 and under. Holders of the Texas State Park Pass also enjoy free entry.

The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) played a vital role in the development of Palo Duro Canyon State Park, Texas, during the 1930s. CCC workers constructed trails, bridges, and buildings, enhancing accessibility and preserving the park’s natural beauty. Traveling from one state park to another, many a testament to the CCC’s dedication and the hard work of its young men, I am struck by the invaluable contribution to conservation. The enduring legacy of the CCC is evident in the transformative impact on parks, promoting environmental stewardship and recreation. These parks stand as vital green spaces, nurturing physical and mental well-being for generations to come.

Picture: The Park Entrance – notice the overcast/foggy morning

Top 5 Activities at Palo Duro Canyon State Park

  1. Hiking:
    • Palo Duro Canyon boasts numerous hiking trails, ranging from easy walks to challenging hikes. The Lighthouse Trail is particularly famous for its iconic rock formation, but there are many other trails with varying lengths and difficulty levels to explore. And as you hike, the park has several geocaching sites to discover and part of the Texas State Parks Geocache Challenge.
  2. Scenic Drives:
    • The park features a scenic drive that offers breathtaking views of the canyon. The Palo Duro Canyon State Park Scenic Drive is a 16-mile route that allows visitors to appreciate the stunning landscapes and geological formations from the comfort of their vehicles.
  3. Mountain Biking:
    • Mountain biking enthusiasts can enjoy the park’s designated biking trails. The terrain provides a mix of challenges suitable for different skill levels. Make sure to check for trail conditions and any specific regulations before heading out with your bike.
  4. Camping:
    • Palo Duro Canyon State Park offers various camping options, including tent camping and RV camping. The park has both developed and primitive campsites, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the natural surroundings. Reservations are recommended, especially during peak seasons.
  5. Cultural Performances:
    • The Texas Outdoor Musical, hosted at the park’s Pioneer Amphitheatre, is a popular event that provides entertainment and a glimpse into the area’s history. The musical, known as “TEXAS,” celebrates the pioneer spirit and features live performances against the stunning backdrop of the canyon.

Longhorns, again?!

As you enter the park, you are greeted by several members of the official State Longhorn Herd. They represent the history of longhorns in the area, which roamed here for 200 years and were part of the Old JA Ranch, which was headquartered in the canyon and one of the greatest cattle operations in the world. I am happy to report, that unlike my longhorn encounter on Mount Rogers in Virginia, these longhorns were in a corral and a bit further away.

Pictures: Longhorns | About the Old JA Ranch

I headed over to the Canyon Gallery & Visitor Center, just a short drive into the park—something I always suggest checking out when exploring a new park. The road leading to the visitor center is one-way with an upper parking lot by the observation point and a smaller lot down the hill. Inside, the Gallery showcases historical videos, archaeological and nature exhibits, and features a beautifully arranged display of Southwest art for sale, including handmade Native American pottery, Navajo, Zuni, and Santo Domingo silver and turquoise jewelry, hunting knives, and a unique selection of hard-to-find regional tools like Comanche and Kiowa beaded items, along with t-shirts and hats. The gentleman at the gallery, who shared some info about the park, was really pushing to sell items. I ended up getting a few postcards, though not exactly what he was suggesting. I did discover that the park is an in-and-out park, meaning the road is a loop and there is only one way in and one way out.

Pictures: The Visitor Center & Canyon Gallery (left picture courtesy of Palo Duro Canyon Foundation)

As I continued to tour the park, I saw a lone fireplace, the remains of a recreation center built by the CCC. The CCC constructed their own barracks, a mess hall, a blacksmith shop, a tool shed, and a recreation center before they began work on the park. They spent their downtime at the recreation center, playing games and socializing. I will have to say, if it were not for the internet, I would not have known this as the informational sign for this point of interest was in disrepair.

Pictures: CCC Recreation Center Fireplace | Informational sign in disrepair | Notice the skies clearing

From here, the road winds down to the canyon floor. At the base on the hill you’ll find the Mack Dick Group Pavilion and the Pioneer Amphitheater. The Mack Dick Group Pavilion is a great place for events as it can hold 169 people and has a full-size commercial kitchen. From this parking lot, you can take the Upper Comanche Trail a difficult 3.3 mile one-way trail that takes you half way up the side of the canyon wall. The Pioneer Amphitheater is home to the Texas Outdoor Musical and Shakespeare in the Canyon which run during the summer months (June through August).

Pictures: The Upper Comanche Trail from the Mack Dick Group Pavilion – you can see the road down to the canyon floor in the distance

Let’s Hike!

At the heart of Palo Duro Canyon State Park lies the iconic Lighthouse Rock, a must-visit destination prominently featured in the park’s marketing materials. To beat the midday heat and avoid the crowds, I opted to tackle this trail as my first adventure. It’s a moderate 5.6 miles roundtrip trail, that took me 2 hours 18 minutes to complete and this included a long stop at Lighthouse Rock. Apart from the trail’s length, I found it to be quite easy, except for the final half-mile, which encompasses the majority of the 512 feet elevation change.

As you approach any of the trailheads, you can’t miss the heat warnings and thermometers. Despite it being November, the temperature stood at a comfortable 65 degrees when I began my hike. Being an experienced hiker, I often pass along these safety tips to beginners:

  • Know your physical limitations and don’t push yourself.
  • Hiking is not a race, so pace yourself.
  • Hike with someone and/or make sure you tell someone where you are, when you start, and that you are back safe.
  • Watch your feet, especially in Texas. Not only should you be aware of rocks, but snakes. I use poles when in areas prone to snakes. Most snakes, like rattlesnakes, will typically move when they feel the ground vibrating from your poles or steps, but copperheads don’t typically move. Juvenile rattlesnakes can be the worst as they have finer fangs to penetrate sneakers and they haven’t learned to control their venom, so they will give you a full dose of venom.
  • Bring water and snacks for energy. The Texas sun and heat can be brutal, so stay hydrated and remember your body needs fuel.
  • Check the weather and be prepared. In many areas, storms will come in without advanced notice.

Pictures: Lighthouse Trailhead | Lighthouse Trail

Pictures: Thermometer and warning signs at the trailhead

The morning was absolutely stunning for a hike, and kudos to the park service for an excellent job marking the trails—many markers even include the distance from the trailhead. Early into my trek, the lingering fog dissipated, revealing a picturesque scene. In the snapshots of Lighthouse Rock, you’ll notice clear blue skies adorned with a few wispy clouds high above. As you traverse the canyon floor, be prepared to marvel at the stunning canyon walls, vibrant cacti, and diverse fauna, as well as encounter some animal droppings.

Amidst the beauty, the echoing calls of what seemed like geese high in the sky caught my attention. It fascinated me how the canyon walls magnified their sounds, making the birds surprisingly loud. Continuing my hike, I encountered several dry river beds and I could only imagine how full and dangerous these are when it rains. I did see some signs of the recent rains, but nothing that you couldn’t navigate.

Pictures: Some of the different trail markers and trail guides

Pictures: Cacti | Animal droppings

Picture: Canyon Walls along the beginning of the trail. Also, that’s not Lighthouse Rock – I thought it was at first.
Picture: The Beauty of the Canyon Walls

Pictures: Bench and Tree | Another Heat Warning along the Trail – this is a serious situation here!

Picture: More of the Canyon

Pictures: Dry River Bed | The little water I saw on the trail

A New Career: Lighthouse Rock Docent

As you get closer to Lighthouse Rock and as you begin to ascend up the trail, the trail gets much narrower. It wasn’t crowded on the day of my visit, but I can only imagine how challenging this portion of the trail is when there are a lot of people on it. There are a couple of places to rest on your way up to Lighthouse Rock where you get a view of the canyon floor below you.

When you reach Lighthouse Rock, you’ll be directly in front of the rock and as it was around 11 AM when I got there, it was a backlit and not ideal for pictures. So, went around to the left of the rock and then came back and went around to the right of the rock. I’d recommend doing this as it gives you a much better perspective of the rock formation. As you walk around each side of the rock, be prepared as there are no marked trails.

I decided to have a little snack after getting some great pictures of lighthouse rock and before heading back to the parking lot. As more and more people came to the rock, I began to act as a docent, giving them tips on where to go and get pictures of this impressive rock formation. I think I found a new career calling!

Picture: View of the canyon floor below
Picture: Initial view of Lighthouse Rock, with the sun behind the top, causing the photo to be backlit
Picture: View of Lighthouse Rock from the left side
Picture: View of Lighthouse Rock from the right side
Picture: Lighthouse Rock

Refueled and recharged after a quick snack, I zipped back to the parking lot with a brisk pace, eager to uncover more adventures. I passed several hikers on the way to Lighthouse Rock, including one couple that had just started their trek, and were already breathing heavily and panting. Needless to say, it became evident why so many cautionary signs. All I kept thinking was of my time on Mt. Kilimanjaro and the guides saying “pole, pole,” in Swahili or “slowly, slowly” – remember this is not a race. Lighthouse Trail was a great way to kick off my visit to Palo Duro Canyon State Park!

Pictures: The Canyon as I hiked back to the Lighthouse Trailhead and Parking Lot

Picture: Palo Duro Canyon from the canyon floor

Rock Garden

As you exit the Lighthouse Trail parking lot, Park Road splits and becomes a large loop. You can go in either direction and I decided to go left and head to Rock Garden Trail. This 2.4-mile one-way trail takes you through an ancient landslide up to the canyon rim, with an elevation change of 600 feet and it is rated difficult. There are several areas to pull off and park here, but no formal parking lot. This trailhead had a thermometer as well and the day was getting warmer – it was now 81 degrees. Time to hydrate!

I decided not to hike this entire trail as I knew I had a major hike and climb in 2 days and I wanted to save my legs and strength for that hike. As I looked up the side of the canyon, there seemed to be some cool and interesting rocks and boulders, so I decided to climb up a portion of the trail. I ended up hiking about 1/2 mile, which gave me some incredible views of the valley below as well as seeing some cool rocks and boulders.

After Rock Garden Trail, the road begins to loop back around towards the entrance. There are several places to park and at one I came across an interesting historical sign about the Battle of Palo Duro Canyon, one of the most significant battles of the 1874-75 Indian Campaign.

Pictures: Rock Garden Trailhead | Trail Thermometer – the temperature is now 81 degrees!

Pictures: Rock Garden Trail

Picture: The canyon below from Rock Garden Trail

Pictures: From Rock Garden Trail | Rock Garden Selfie

Picture: Historical Marker for the Battle of Palo Duro Canyon

The Big Cave

After coming around the bend and heading back towards the entrance, you’ll come to the Big Cave. Although this is on the park map and one of the Points of Interest, it is not well marked, nor is the trail to the cave. There is a picnic table by the side of the road, which is the best indicator that you are in the right place, and you park along the side of the road. It’s a relatively short hike up to the cave and due to the red clay soil, it can be a bit of a challenge – slippery – as you hike up into the cave. At first, I went up the left side of the cave but realized this was not really a viable path to the cave entrance. I end up hiking straight up into the cave. There is a little bit of a boulder scramble, and it looks much worse than it really is. Once in the cave, I was so happy I persevered and would recommend this as a stop.

Picture: Looking up to the Big Cave

Pictures: Going up the left side of the cave | Looking down from the left side of the cave

Pictures: Looking into the Big Cave | Initial view out of the Big Cave

Picture: Inside of the Big Cave
Picture: Looking out from the Big Cave
Picture: The side of the Big Cave entrance

After the Big Cave, I continued along Park Road on the floor of the canyon stopping at the Lone Star Interpretive Theater, the Old West Stables, and the Trading Post for more views of the canyon before I headed back up to the Visitor Center and for the last hike of my day.

Pictures: View of Palo Duro Canyon | One of the many informational signs

Picture: Final view of the canyon from the canyon floor before I headed back to the Visitor Center

CCC Trail

Embarking from the Visitor Center, the CCC Trail stretches 1.4 miles one-way, with a descent of 500 feet, earning its difficult rating. The journey takes you across four historical CCC bridges and through four distinct geologic layers, from the canyon rim to the floor below. Despite its challenging label, I didn’t find the trail overly strenuous. Having already explored the canyon floor, I decided to forego the final descent but covered a mile of the 1.4-mile trail. With a massive hike looming in two days, I wanted to conserve energy and focus on preserving my legs.

Completing the 2-mile out-and-back hike in a brisk hour, I highly recommend this trail if time allows. It treats you to some of the most breathtaking views of the canyon, offering unique perspectives of Park Road winding its way down to the canyon floor. Don’t forget to explore the various viewpoints along the trail; they might not be directly on the path, but they offer unparalleled glimpses of the canyon’s beauty.

Pictures: The view at the top of the CCC Trail

Picture: Looking back at the beginning of the CCC Trail and one of the geological layers

Pictures: The first of four CCC Bridges that you’ll cross

Picture: View Point just off the trail

Pictures: View of the Canyon as you hike down

Picture: Another CCC Bridge
Picture: Amazing view of Palo Duro Canyon

Pictures: Park Road winding down to the Canyon floor

Pictures: Trail Marker | Cool tree on the edge of the canyon

Picture: Where I turned around on the CCC Trail, just before the final descent to the canyon floor

So, gear up for an unforgettable adventure at Palo Duro Canyon State Park! Dive into a multi-day expedition, setting up camp right in the heart of this natural wonderland. Imagine waking up to the breathtaking beauty each morning, ready to conquer a different trail each day. Trust me, it’s not just a trip; it’s a journey that promises to etch a lifetime of vivid memories into your soul. Don’t miss out—seize the opportunity for an immersive experience that will linger in your heart forever!

Date of Visit: 15 November 2023

Lake Murray State Park | Oklahoma

As I headed westward from Louisiana to San Diego, I stopped at Lake Murray State Park in Ardmore, Oklahoma. I went via Dallas, Texas, and didn’t even recognize the city I used to live in. From the explosive growth came a concrete jungle with highway interchanges as tall as skyscrapers and strip malls covering every inch of land from Dallas to to Denton – some 40 miles. Lake Murray State Park is located about 1/2 way between Dallas, Texas, and Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, just off Interstate 35 and about 10 minutes from the center of Ardmore, Oklahoma.

Picture: Northern Park Entrance at US-70 and Route 77S

About the Park

Named after Oklahoma Gov. William “Alfalfa Bill” Murray, Lake Murray State Park comprises a 12,496-acre recreational area and a 5,728-acre, man-made lake created by the damming of the Fourche Maline and Anadarche creeks. Lake Murray’s crystal-clear spring-fed waters and 150 miles of shoreline welcome a variety of outdoor recreation opportunities including hiking, biking, boating, fishing, and camping. There is a $10 fee per day to park anywhere in the park that you pay through an app or you can pay cash at the park office. You’ll see signs at every parking lot, but only need to pay once per day.

Lake Murray State Park is the first and largest state park in Oklahoma and was constructed during the era of Pres. Franklin Roosevelt’s New Deal and part of several New Deal Agencies including the Civilian Conservation Corp or CCC, which I have written about in my past blogs about other state parks; and the Works Progress Administration or WPA. The solons envisioned the park as a relatively cheap recreational environment for the citizens of Oklahoma (I beg to differ with a $10 parking fee). Two main group camps were created, along with a “Negro” camp. Lake Murray State Park became the only state park built by the National Park Service to provide permanent camping facilities for black youth.

Staying at the park is easy with your choice between RV and tent campgrounds, 56 cabins dotted throughout beautiful Lake Murray State Park, and The Lake Murray Lodge with 32 rooms. The Lodge has a restaurant, an outdoor pool, a splash pad area, and a miniature golf course.

Pictures: Northern Park Map | Southern Park Map

Top 5 Activities at Lake Murray State Park

Lake Murray State Park is definitely a destination for boating and water activities, as well as camping. My impression was that it’s more of a “resort” and not the woodsy, outdoors, and rustic parks that I personally prefer to visit. This particular list of activities is ranked in what I feel are the common uses for the park.

  1. Boating and Water Activities: Lake Murray is a large reservoir, and visitors can enjoy boating, fishing, swimming, and other water activities. The park has boat ramps, a marina, and designated swimming areas.
  2. Camping: For those looking to extend their stay, Lake Murray State Park offers camping facilities. Whether you prefer tent camping or RV camping, there are options available within the park.
  3. Golfing: Lake Murray State Park features an 18-hole golf course known as the Lake Murray State Park Golf Course. Golf enthusiasts can enjoy a round of golf surrounded by the park’s picturesque scenery.
  4. Visit the Tucker Tower Nature Center: Tucker Tower is a historic structure located within the park that now serves as a nature center. It was originally designed to be a summer home for the governors of Oklahoma and today it is the home of the Nature Center and providing educational exhibits about the area’s natural history and offering panoramic views of Lake Murray.
  5. Hiking and Nature Trails: Explore the natural beauty of the park by taking advantage of its hiking and nature trails, which span over 30 miles in total. These trails offer a chance to see local wildlife and enjoy scenic views of the lake and surrounding landscapes.

Let the Driving Tour Begin!

I spoke with the receptionist at my hotel in Ardmore and she gave me some good recommendations on the sights to see which included the Fishing Pier and Tucker Tower, but added that Tucker Tower was currently closed for repairs. After breakfast, I headed out to the park, entering from the north entrance by the Lake Country Store, then taking Route 77S, the scenic highway around the park and lake. I did find it odd that the speed limit on 77S is 45 mph, which I thought was fast and not conducive to enjoying your drive around the park.

Before I continue, I wanted to give you some background and context on my visit. I felt as if Lake Murray State Park is best explored if you are staying there for a couple of days, which I did not do. I also think having access to a boat is key to fully enjoying the park, which I did not have. I personally love hiking, and to be frank, outside of my jaunt to Buzzards Roost, I didn’t find the trails very interesting. I also think that because my visit was in November, there wasn’t a lot open at the park and it lacked energy from having people around. So hopefully that will help if you are looking to visit the park.

With that said, I first stopped at the Pecan Grove Picnic Area, and yes, you have to pay to park here. It is a typical picnic area and there is a trail that you can take back north to the Lake Country Store and along the lake.

Pictures: Pecan Grove Picnic Area

Pictures: The trail at Pecan Grove Picnic area

Next up was the North Boat Ramp, where you get your first view of the lake. I had to laugh as I pulled into the parking area and saw a parking enforcement officer in his car, which I certainly didn’t expect to see, especially on a quiet Monday. So I guess they take their parking fee seriously.

As I continued south, Dukes Forest Campground was next, but it was closed for the season. Shortly after this, there is a small parking area and the Johnson Memorial Bridge, an arched bridge named in honor of E.J. Johnson, project superintendent for the CCC work projects here at Lake Murray.

Pictures: Memorial Bridge | Large Boulder by the Bridge | Plaque about the Bridge

Next, I took Gatehouse Road towards the lake, which will take you to several camping areas and sights – Elephant Rock Camp, Cedar Point Camp, and Tipp’s Point Boar Launch. Gatehouse Road also dead ends into a parking lot with a view of the lake. As I drove through this area, I saw the only wildlife on my tour, some deer.

Pictures: Lake Murray from Elephant Rock Campground

The Lake Murray Lodge

Lodge Road, the western park entrance, is next on the tour. At the intersection of Route 77S and Lodge Road is one of the Park Offices, which to my surprise was closed. As you drive towards the lake, you’ll first pass some of the park’s cabins and then you’ll arrive at The Lake Murray Lodge – home to an outdoor pool, miniature golf, and a water sports rental center. There are also floating cabins nearby. As you leave the area, you’ll pass the Historic Water Tower, vital to the park’s cabins and lodge during their initial years of operation.

Pictures: One of the Cabins | The Lodge’s Outdoor Pool

Pictures: Miniature Golf Course | Water Sports Rental Center

Pictures: Lake Murray Lodge

Pictures: The Historic Water Tower

Some of the Water Activities

The Fishing Pier, recommended by the hotel receptionist, is right after the Lodge Area. For the record and as I know it, a pier is built out into the water, while a bridge crosses the water from shore to shore. Sorry State of Oklahoma, this is a bridge and not a pier. I walked across the “pier” as I wanted to hike some of the trails in the park, only to find a yellow stake in the ground, a trail guide of sorts, that was hardly legible and written with a Sharpie. Really?!

I ended up hiking about 1/4 mile and as I was unsure where the trail went, I turned back and went up another trail along the water’s edge. From here I got a nice view of the “pier” and the cove. This trail wasn’t well marked, so I turned around and headed back to my car. On my way, I ran into a woman with a strong accent, either Eastern European or German, walking her dogs. She stopped me to see if I knew about the trails and where this trail went. I told her that the Park Office was closed and I wasn’t able to get a trail map. With that she pulled out the maps she got from the Park Office – they were detailed topographic maps, that were so small you needed a magnifying glass to read, and so detailed you needed a PhD in Rocket Science to decipher them. I think the State needs to hire me as a Park Consultant.

Pictures: Sign at the Parking Lot | The Fishing “Pier”

Pictures: Trail Guide? | View of the Cove and Lake

Picture: The Fishing “Pier”

The Marina

Lake Murray Marina currently features 352 boat slips which should not be a surprise as boating is probably the number one feature of the park. The marina is accessible from Boat Dock Road and a portion of it is accessible from Buzzards Roost. For those wanting to just enjoy the water, there is the Lake Murray Marina Beach. From the marina, you also get a direct view of Tucker Tower Nature Center. This happened to be my only view of the infamous Tower as the road to the tower was closed on the day of my visit.

Pictures: The Marina

Pictures: My only view of Tucker Tower | The Entrance to Tucker Tower Nature Center

Picture: Tucker Tower Nature Center with the Marina in the background

The Best for Last

Buzzards Roost Road ends on the south side of the Marina. Along this road, you’ll see one of the original CCC Picnic Pavillions, constructed of large timbers and native stones. Next to the Buzzards Roost Campground, there is a small parking lot and the remnants of a cabin or building. To the right of the building is a set of stone stairs that will take you up to the Roost. Once on top, you can hike to either the left or right. I went in both directions and eventually found openings in the rocks where I had the most incredible and magnificent views of the lake and surrounding area. You can tell hiking, especially up and through rocks, is my jam!

Pictures: CCC Picnic Pavillion

Pictures: Building Remnants

Pictures: Some of the Stairs to the Roost

Pictures: Trail along the Roost | Selfie on the Roost

Picture: View from the Roost

Pictures: Views from the Roost

I finished my tour with a stop to get a view of the lake from a higher elevation, then a stop at Rock Tower. Overall it was a nice and interesting park that I would probably visit if I lived in the area, but I certainly wouldn’t list it as a destination park or a park I would make a special trip to.

Pictures: Lake Murray | Rock Tower

Date of Visit: 14 November 2023

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