Tag: History

Travel Isn’t Alway Pretty

One of my all-time favorite chefs and globetrotters was the legendary Anthony Bourdain. He once said, “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”

Now, let’s talk about Cape May, New Jersey. This little beach hamlet managed to break my heart in ways I didn’t see coming. Sure, the journey was fun and educational, but it was also like an unseasoned clam chowder – something was missing. Granted, I visited during the off-season, which meant fewer crowds but also fewer attractions. But honestly, after hearing my travel buddy’s tales of the summer madness in these beach towns, I’m pretty relieved I dodged the peak tourist frenzy. Cape May might not have lived up to the hype, but hey, at least I got a history lesson out of it!

When on Holiday. . .

A little background on this excursion – I was visiting my buddy Phil and his wife Amanda in Lewes, Delaware. With Amanda tied up at work, Phil and I seized the opportunity for a boys’ day out, setting our sights on Cape May. Our journey began at the Lewes Ferry Terminal, one of the nicest I’ve seen, and the On the Rocks Dockside Grill. Now, ferry protocol: arrive early, check in, line up the car, head inside to chill, and wait for the call. And since work was the last thing on our minds, we cozied up to the bar for some top-notch Bloody Marys because, hey, when on holiday, it’s practically the law! Here is a link to the Cape May – Lewes Ferry.

Pictures: The Lewes Ferry Terminal

Pictures: The Lewes Ferry Terminal | The Breakfast of Champions

The “Call”

It’s like the iconic moment at the Indy 500 when they holler, “Drivers, Start Your Engines!” But here, at the ferry terminal, it’s our turn. A crackle over the PA system signals it’s time to hustle to our cars and prepare to board. These salty sailors work their magic, seamlessly ushering vehicles onto the ferry. Once aboard, we ascended to the upper deck, ready to soak in the 85-minute voyage to Cape May. Despite the November chill nipping at our noses, we braved the brisk air for a while before retreating indoors to explore the ship and chill a bit more. I bet the trip in the summer is even more amazing. But, alas, we made do. And just like that, as the shoreline drew near, the call echoed once more, beckoning us back to our car for the next leg of our adventure.

Pictures: Boarded and set to go! | Looking back at Lewes

Pictures: Bundled up for the Crossing | Approaching the Cape May Ferry Terminal | Passing a Ferry

Farm-to-Bottle

Southern New Jersey boasts rich farmland, offering bountiful harvests of fresh produce. This fertile region is known for its vibrant, community-driven agricultural traditions. Here, farmers cultivate a bounty of crops, from juicy tomatoes to sweet corn, under the sun-drenched skies of the Garden State.

Our next stop was Nauti Spirits, a true farm-to-bottle operation, which is also one of NJ’s largest distilleries, with two massive all-copper pot stills and a column still. It is located on a bucolic 60-acre coastal working farm that sits between the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay, less than 5 minutes from (and between) downtown Cape May and the Cape May – Lewes Ferry. The distillery is unique in NJ, as they use much of what they grow on their farm to produce their spirits.

Pictures: Cool Vibe inside Nauti Spirts

Walking in, you’re hit with that vibe—cool, laid-back, and totally inviting. The staff? Top-notch. The place? Gorgeous, with sunflowers swaying in the breeze like a scene from a postcard. We sampled their spirits, and while they were good, let’s just say the bourbon left a little something to be desired for the price. But hey, it’s all about the experience, right? So we kicked back, sipping our cocktails, soaking in the vibe, and reveling in the beauty of local agriculture. Cheers to that!

Pictures: Sunflowers at Nauti Spirits | Bourbon on the Rocks and a Nauti Mule

Not So Lucky

Our stomachs growling, we decided to grab a bite before diving into our Cape May adventure. The chosen spot? Lucky Bones Back Water Grill. Not that it would matter to me (I’m a pescatarian), but with a name like Lucky Bones and the aroma of a pit barbecue as you stepped out of your car, you’d think the menu would scream BBQ. Spoiler alert: BBQ wasn’t the star of this show.

Curious about the quirky name, I found out that “Lucky Bone” refers to the peculiar hook-like claw of the male horseshoe crab. Back in Cape May’s whaling days, sailors deemed these claws lucky charms, taking them to sea for protection. Hence, the name “Lucky Bones.”

Pictures: The “Sargeant Joe Friday” Mahi Sandwich | Beer with more Personality

Back to our dining experience: we opted for bar seating, as the dining room felt like a relic from another era—eerily cavernous and devoid of charm. The menu? A nostalgic trip to the 1980s, alongside Banana Seat Bikes, Miami Vice suits, and leg warmers. The food was just okay—nothing disastrous, but certainly nothing to write home about. I ordered a Mahi sandwich with house-cut fries. Note to restaurant owners: if you’re going to boast about house-cut fries, make sure you know how to cook them properly! The sandwich itself was as bland and uninspired as Sergeant Joe Friday from Dragnet. At least the beer had a bit of personality, which was more than I could say for the rest of the meal.

A Step Back in Time

Cape May is home to one of the highest concentrations of Victorian homes (second only to San Francisco), drawing visitors from all over. We parked near the Washington Street Mall—a pedestrian promenade brimming with unique shops, quirky boutiques, a variety of restaurants, and laid-back bars. We decided to dive in and explore. The mall had some cool spots but didn’t quite blow us away, so we wandered into the Historic District. The tree-lined streets were dotted with Victorian homes, most of them impressively well-maintained. These ornate, colorful houses definitely added a touch of charm and old-world elegance to the area and I get why people are drawn here.

*Picture:* Victorian Home in Cape May | NJ

Picture: Victorian Homes in Cape May | NJ

Sun, Sand, and Surf

No visit to Cape May is complete without hitting its pristine beaches—though maybe when it’s a bit warmer! On Cape May Beach, we stumbled upon a quirky beach bunker, a World War II relic standing strong against time and tides. This concrete sentinel adds a dash of history to the sandy shore, perfect for snapping unique photos or pondering its storied past while soaking up the sun. We’d dive deeper into history the next day at Cape Henlopen State Park in Delaware, discovering how differently the two states approach these historic sites. Sorry Jersey, Delaware has you beat here.

Pictures: Cape May Bunker | Cape May Bunker and Lighthouse

Beacon of History

Our final pit stop: the Cape May Lighthouse, a beacon calling out to explorers like us. Built in 1859, this iconic landmark boasts a height of 157 feet and a staggering 199 steps to the top. Its guiding light once served as a vital navigational aid for ships sailing along the bustling East Coast. While we missed the chance to peek inside, its majestic presence alone was worth the visit.

Pictures: Two views of the Cape May Lighthouse

Pictures: From Cape May’s Maritime Past

Adventures in Okay

As Anthony Bourdain wisely said, “Travel isn’t always pretty…but that’s okay.” So, let’s talk about Cape May, New Jersey. Sure, it didn’t steal the show for me, but hey, that’s part of the adventure, right? From exploring quirky beach bunkers to tasting local spirits, it was a journey sprinkled with surprises and lessons learned. Each stop, whether stellar or just okay, added a new chapter to my story. And isn’t that what travel’s all about? Happy Travels!

Date of Visit: 5 November 2023

Cape Henlopen State Park | Delaware

By Stephen

On January 20, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | best state parks list

Cape Henlopen State Park is a fascinating park, that offers so many different experiences and is worthy of visiting on multiple days. In fact, I would suggest using Lewes, Delaware or another nearby city as a vacation hub – Cape May, New Jersey (blog post coming soon) is a short ferry ride across the bay and Assateague State Park and Assateague Island National Seashore are about an hour away. There is so much to do in the area.

A Guys Day

I specifically came to Lewes, Delaware to visit my friends Amanda and Phil. We all took the short trip to Assateague State Park and had a blast. However, on this day, Amanda had to work, so it was just Phil and I for a guy’s day out. That morning both Phil and I had a little work to finish before we headed out. I also made a little breakfast nosh, Smoked Salmon & Avocado Toast with Everything But the Bagel Seasoning. Delish! On the way to the park, we stopped by to see Amanda at the local Golf Club she bartends for a Bloody Mary. Let’s get this party started!

*Picture:* Smoked Salmon & Avocado Toast

About the Park

Cape Henlopen State Park, nestled on Delaware’s picturesque coast, offers a captivating blend of natural beauty and recreational opportunities. Spanning over 5,000 acres, this coastal gem boasts pristine beaches, rolling sand dunes, and lush maritime forests. Outdoor enthusiasts can explore a network of scenic trails, ideal for hiking and biking, while birdwatchers delight in the park’s diverse avian inhabitants.

History buffs can explore the iconic World War II observation towers that stand as silent sentinels along the shoreline. The park’s centerpiece, the historic Fort Miles, provides a fascinating glimpse into the region’s military past. Visitors can also indulge in water activities, from swimming in the Atlantic to fishing and kayaking in the park’s tidal salt marshes. With its rich ecological diversity and recreational charm, Cape Henlopen State Park beckons nature lovers and adventure seekers alike to discover the magic of Delaware’s coastal wonders.

Pictures: Park Maps were the focus of our visit, specifically the left-hand map.

Top 5 Activities

Explore the Beaches: Cape Henlopen State Park offers pristine beaches along the Atlantic Ocean. Visitors can relax on the sandy shores, swim in the refreshing waters, or engage in beachcombing and seashell collecting.
Hiking and Biking Trails: The park features an extensive network of scenic trails, including the popular Gordon’s Pond Trail and the Seaside Nature Trail. Hikers and bikers can immerse themselves in the park’s diverse landscapes, from coastal dunes to lush forests.
Visit Fort Miles: History enthusiasts can explore the historic Fort Miles, which played a crucial role in coastal defense during World War II. The fort features bunkers, observation towers, and informative exhibits, providing a fascinating glimpse into the area’s military history.
Birdwatching: Cape Henlopen is a haven for birdwatchers, offering diverse habitats for numerous bird species. Bring your binoculars and observe the variety of shorebirds, songbirds, and raptors that inhabit the park, especially during migratory seasons.
Water Activities: The park’s coastal location provides opportunities for various water activities. Fishing enthusiasts can try their luck from the fishing pier, and kayakers can explore the tidal salt marshes. The park’s natural beauty is best experienced from the water, adding an extra layer of adventure to your visit.

Reliving our Childhood

Both Phil and I grew up in an era of G.I. Joe and are both history buffs, so our first stop was Fort Miles. We had also visited Cape May, New Jersey the day before, where we initially learned about the observation towers and gun bunkers in the area. When visiting the park you have to go up into one of the Observation Towers. The observation towers have a rich history dating back to their construction during World War II when they served as lookout posts for coastal defense. These towers played a crucial role in monitoring the Delaware coast for potential enemy activity. Triangulation techniques were employed in their design, ensuring precise alignment and effective surveillance capabilities during their wartime function. Today, the observation towers are iconic landmarks, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding area.

Pictures: One of the Observation Towers | About the Observation Towers

Pictures: Spiral Staircase to the Top | Selfie on the Top of the Tower

Pictures: Views from the Observation Slots

*Picture:* View from the Observation Slots with the main gun battery

Battery 519

From the parking lot, it is a short walk to Battery 519, a 15,000-square-foot fortified underground chamber. Today, the main battery houses the Fort Miles Museum. Along the initial part of the walk, you’ll pass some of the original barracks and several of the weapons that were used to protect the fort and the coast. And of course, our inner childhood came out. . .

Pictures: The Barracks area and some of the weapons used to protect the fort.

Pictures: Boys will be Boys

As you walk up to the main bunker and Museum, you’ll see a couple of the guns used to protect the coast during WW II. The largest gun on display actually came from the USS Missouri, Mighty MO. This massive gun could shoot a 2700-pound shell over 20 miles with pinpoint accuracy. And you can see the damage such a shell can make on the thick steel of a Japanese ship during the war.

Pictures: Mighty Mo’s Big Gun | A shell and the type of damage it did to a Japanese ship

*Picture:* One of the guns used to protect the coast

Pictures: Fort Miles Museum

Pictures: Views from the Museum terrace

Beach Time

From Fort Miles, we continued our loop around the park and headed for the Senator David B. McBride Beach Bathhouse. It is a gorgeous facility with a boardwalk to the beach. I can only imagine how busy this place must be in the summer – remember our visit was at the beginning of November.

Pictures: McBride Beach Bathhouse | Boardwalk to the Beach

Pictures: Pillar on the Beach | Only the Shadows Know

Birds of Prey

Right next to the Bathhouse area, you can spot the Cape Henlopen Hawk Watch Tower. This spot used to be a military bunker, but now it’s a great place to watch different types of raptors fly by. It’s pretty neat that they keep count of all the birds they’ve seen yesterday and overall. So if you’re interested in birdwatching, this is the perfect spot!

Pictures: The Bunker beneath the Hawk Watch | The Hawk Watch Tower

Pictures: Daily and To Date Raptor Sightings | View from the Hawk Watch Tower

The Point

Next up, my favorite part of the park – The Point. The beach was so chill and beautiful! We didn’t have enough time to check the whole thing out, though. Next time, I’d love to take a longer hike out to the point. We noticed a ton of horseshoe crab shells scattered around the beach. Later, we learned that the Delaware Bay and the area off of Cape Henlopen has the world’s largest spawning population of horseshoe crabs, which are the official State Marine Animal. They look like they’re straight out of the movie Predator, pretty cool! We also got to see a couple of other native crabs that were still alive.

Pictures: A couple of the Horseshoe Crab shells

Pictures: Some of the other crabs we saw, per Google Lens – Lady Crab (r) and Ghost Crab (l)

Last Stop – The Fishing Pier

The fishing pier at Cape Henlopen State Park offers a stunning view of the Delaware Bay, with sights of the Ferry port, The Point, a lighthouse, and Cape May, New Jersey. I met several fishermen on the pier who had caught Tautog or Blackfish that day, a fish species that is popular in chowders and similar to Red Snapper. I highly recommend a visit to Cape Henlopen State Park for a great day out!

Historic Downtown Lewes

After a long day, we hit up historic downtown Lewes for a refreshing libation and snack at the Pink Pony, the bar at Bramble & Brine at The Butttery. It’s a super cute bar with hundreds of equestrienne ribbons, and definitely worth checking out when you’re in Lewes.