A Michigan Gem
Nestled in the heart of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, Tahquamenon Falls State Park is a treasure trove of natural wonders and breathtaking beauty. With nearly 50,000 acres of pristine wilderness, this park is home to one of the most impressive waterfall systems east of the Mississippi, drawing nature enthusiasts, photographers, and adventure seekers alike. Beyond the falls, Tahquamenon Falls State Park boasts over 35 miles of hiking trails that weave through dense forests, scenic overlooks, and along the picturesque Tahquamenon River. So, grab your bug spray, lace up those hiking boots, and let’s dive into my adventure through this U.P. gem!
Pronunciation Tip: Tahquamenon is pronounced tuh-KWAH-muh-non.
The Mighty Tahquamenon Falls
The crown jewels of Tahquamenon Falls State Park are undoubtedly the waterfalls themselves. The park features two main sets of falls: the Upper and Lower Falls. The Upper Falls, often referred to as the “Root Beer Falls” due to their distinctive amber color, are a sight to behold. Spanning 200 feet across and dropping nearly 50 feet, this waterfall is the second largest in volume east of the Mississippi River, only trailing Niagara Falls in size! The unique hue of the water is thanks to tannins leached from the cedar swamps that feed into the river—nature’s very own chemistry experiment. Visiting the Upper Falls offers multiple viewing platforms and trails that allow you to marvel at the roaring waters from various angles.
The Lower Falls offer a more intimate yet equally mesmerizing experience. This series of five smaller cascades encircle an island, accessible by rowboat or a charming footbridge. Exploring the island and the surrounding waters is like stepping into a tranquil escape—perfect for a leisurely day of picnicking, swimming, and photography.
Roadtrips and Sunsets
I arrived in the afternoon, eager to explore. After checking into my campsite at the Rivermouth Campground, I couldn’t resist a quick detour north to Whitefish Point (check out my other post on Road Trippin’: The U.P.) – Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum and the historic Whitefish Point Lighthouse. On the way back to camp, I made a couple of stops that were just too good to pass up.
First, I swung by the Rivermouth Roadside Park, a small but scenic spot on the Lake Superior shoreline. Michigan seems to have a thing for these roadside parks, and honestly, I’m here for it. They’re like little oases for travelers, offering a place to picnic, rest, and soak in the scenery. A short hop down the road brought me to Clark Point Trail. Calling it a trail is a bit generous—it’s more like a quick walk from the parking lot to the lake—but it was fun exploring the shoreline. This spot is also a birdwatcher’s paradise, so bring your binoculars if that’s your thing.
Photos: Views from Rivermouth Roadside Park | And from the Clark Point Trail
Back at camp, I settled in for the evening with a campfire and dinner. But the real treat came later, as I headed to the campground’s beach on the Tahquamenon River. With golden hour approaching, I grabbed a cold one, found a log to perch on, and let nature’s show unfold before me. There’s something magical about watching the sun dip below the horizon while the river flows quietly by—it’s the perfect way to end a full day of adventure.
Photos: My Campsite | The Evening’s Fire
Photos: The Tahquamenon River – great for Kayaking | Enjoying a Cold One!
Photos: Enjoying Nature’s Show | Golden Hour at the Tahquamenon River
No time to wait on late rangers
First, A note to fellow adventurers: Tahquamenon Falls has two main entrances, one at the Upper Falls and the other at the Lower Falls. It’s not uncommon to see long lines, especially in the morning or around 3 PM when campers are checking in.
Photo: Lower Falls Entrance from the Parking Lot | Hard to Get Lost Here!
Photos: Lower Falls Map | Upper Falls Map
The next morning, I was up early and ready to hit the trails. My first stop was the Lower Falls. After waiting a bit for the entrance booth to open on time at 8:00 AM (spoiler alert: it didn’t), I decided to get a head start on my day. I wasn’t going to let the rangers late start ruin my plans! Just up from the parking lot, there’s a handy area with bathrooms, the Lower Tahquamenon Falls Café & Gift Shop, and even rowboat rentals for exploring the Tahquamenon River. The hike from the gift shop to the Lower Falls is only a half-mile, mostly on a raised boardwalk. Being early, I had the place almost to myself, save for a few other early risers. Along the way, you’ll spot a wooden plaque featuring the Prayer of the Woods—a reminder to be mindful and respectful of the natural beauty around us.
Photos: Bear Cubs at Play – a sculpture at the entrance | Rowboats for Rent
Photos: The Boardwalk to the Lower Falls | The Prayer of the Woods
The Lower Falls consist of a series of five smaller falls cascading around an island. You can either view them from the riverbank or cross the Ronald A. Olson Island Bridge to explore the island. I’d recommend the latter—it’s a short half-mile loop around the island, and you get to see all five falls up close. Plus, the bridge itself is pretty cool, especially with the river roaring below after the recent rains.
Photos: Ronald A. Olson Island Bridge
Photos: The Island Loop – It’s pretty flat until you hit the boat dock area, where you’ll find a few stairs
Photos: Morning Views from the Island Loop
Photos: A few views of the Cascades at the Lower Falls from the Island
Feeling inspired and ready for a bigger adventure, I changed into my trail runners, grabbed my poles, and lathered myself in bug spray. My next challenge: the 4-mile one-way hike from the Lower Falls to the Upper Falls along the River Trail, known for its scenic beauty, winding through old-growth forests and along the river.
The River Trail: A Hiker’s Delight with Otters
Now, let me give you a heads-up: this trek is not for everyone. It’s got its fair share of exposed roots, hilly terrain, numerous staircases, and was a bit overgrown in some areas. But if you’re up for the challenge, the rewards are more than worth it. At one point, I even stumbled upon a group of river otters frolicking along the riverbank. They didn’t notice me at first, but when I “clicked” to get their attention for a photo, they weren’t too thrilled and quickly disappeared into the water. I guess not everyone is a fan of the paparazzi!
One thing to note is that the trail isn’t always the best marked or maybe I just wasn’t paying attention. I may or may not have taken a wrong turn at one point, but hey, getting lost is part of the adventure, right?
Photos: River Trailhead at the Ronald A. Olson Island Bridge | Time to walk the plank and dodge some roots on the River Trail!
Photos: The River Trail – A fun combo of dirt paths and wooden boardwalks!
Photos: The Otters – Before they knew I was around | And after – when they gave me an earful!
Photos: Check out one of the amazing views of the Tahquamenon River along the trail! | And yep, even on the way up to the Upper Falls, you’ll hit some stairs going down—perfect cardio workout!
Stairmasters and Nature’s Powerhouse
After what felt like a mini-marathon, I reached the Upper Falls. The 181 stairs down to the Gorge View seemed like child’s play after my hike, and the view was nothing short of spectacular. From here I got my first glimpse of this massive cascade with a nearly 50-foot drop and a width of over 200 feet. The sheer volume of water crashing down is mesmerizing—it’s said that during peak flow, over 50,000 gallons of water rush over the falls every second, hence getting the title of the second largest east of the Mississippi.
Photos: Coming off the River Trail and hitting the Upper Falls Viewing Areas | First stop: the Gorge View!
Photos: Stairmaster Workout – 181 stairs down to the Gorge, then back up
Photos: Boardwalk to the Viewing Area | Along the Gorge
If you’re a sucker for scenic spots, the Brink View area is another must-visit. After another 94 steps down, you’ll be rewarded with a front-row seat to one of nature’s most powerful shows. This area was definitely more popular, and I had to navigate around a few selfie-taking tourists, but the view was worth it. After taking in the sights, I headed to the Upper Falls parking lot, a short 0.3-mile walk on a paved walkway. This spot has some nice perks too, like the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub, Camp 33 Gift Shop, an outdoor picnic area, and even a food truck, though it wasn’t open when I visited.
After all that hiking, I figured I deserved a reward, so I made my way to the Brewery & Pub. Unfortunately, nothing on the menu really caught my eye, but I couldn’t pass up the chance to try one of their beers. I went with the Falls Tannin, an American Red Beer. It had that deep amber hue, just like the Upper Falls, but the taste was… well, just okay. Not exactly something to write home about, but it hit the spot after a long day on the trails.
Photos: Tahquamenon Falls Brewery | Tried the Falls Tannin – does it look like the falls? | Today’s brews!
Trail Running and Campfire Bliss
Rested and refreshed, it was time to head back down the River Trail to the Lower Falls parking lot—a solid 4+ miles back. This time, I took the Nature Trail to the River Trail, the path I had hiked up earlier. Feeling a bit adventurous, I decided to turn the hike into a trail run. The path was getting busier with other hikers, so I had to weave around a few people, but it was a fun way to end the day.
Back at the Lower Falls parking lot, I packed up and headed to my campsite for the night—The Lower Falls Portage Campground. Back at the campsite, I treated myself to a hot shower, made another campfire, and settled in for the night. I had a 7-hour drive to Duluth, Minnesota, ahead of me the next day, so I knew it would be an early night. But as I sat by the fire with a cold drink in hand, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of contentment. Tahquamenon Falls State Park had lived up to every expectation and then some.
A Memorable Adventure
Tahquamenon Falls State Park is more than just a place to visit—it’s a place to experience. Whether you’re marveling at the mighty falls, exploring the serene hiking trails, or simply soaking in the natural beauty, this park offers something for everyone. And if you’re lucky, you might even have a few memorable encounters with the local wildlife. Just don’t forget to pack your bug spray, plan to camp in the park, and get ready for an adventure you won’t soon forget. So, what are you waiting for?
The Pasty Pursuit: A Culinary Quest
As I drove through the U.P., I kept seeing signs for pasties (pronounced pass-tee, not pay-stee.) —what are these mysterious pastry things? As a curious foodie, chef, and restauranteur (also a pescatarian), I had to find out. After some quick research, I found a place in Ishpeming that had a vegetarian option. I headed to Lawry’s Pasty Shop, only to be disappointed—apparently, they don’t cook the vegetarian ones on-site. Determined not to leave empty-handed, I backtracked to Irontown Pasties in the heart of Negaunee. After a bit of a wait (perfect for catching up on Words with Friends), I finally snagged a veggie-cheese pasty. The staff was super friendly, and when I asked about the “proper” way to eat it, they handed me a no-name ketchup bottle and said, “With ketchup!”
My first impression? Well, let’s just say it looked like an Irishman on the beach in Miami—stark white. The dough was a bit undercooked, especially where it was folded. The filling was a mix of broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, onion, potato, cream cheese, cheddar cheese, mozzarella cheese, and spices. It wasn’t horrible, but it wasn’t great either. It was like winning a match by default—you get the victory, but it feels a bit anticlimactic. With that, I headed for Duluth, Minnesota.
Photos: Irontown Pasties | My Veggie-Cheese Pasty – with a side of ketchup, of course!
Catch you on the road!
Dates of Visit: 20 & 21 July 2024
