After a grueling climb to the summit of Hawkeye Point, Iowa’s highest natural peak, I was ready to hit the road for South Dakota. I was uber excited because this trip would tick off South Dakota from my list, bringing my total to 46 states visited—eight of which I’ve called home. (Truthfully, I might have hit 48 states—I think I might have been to Wyoming and Montana at some point, but I can’t quite remember, so I won’t count them.)
Mosquito Swarms and Flood-Free Comfort
Let’s dive into my overnight adventure. I decided to camp and booked a site through Hipcamp at The Retreat at Pointers Ridge—a charming spot that offers one campsite amidst its artist retreat. It’s a haven for creativity, where you can do everything from painting to poetry readings, and even dog scent trials. Little did I know, I was in for quite the experience. The host, Deb, was a gem—so accommodating and attentive to my needs. She gave me flawless directions to the campsite and made sure I knew I could just set up and camp.
When I arrived, I checked out the riverbank where my site was set up. As you might remember from my previous posts, I planned to sleep in the back of my rental SUV rather than pitching a tent. While getting settled, Deb popped by to show me around. First thing I noticed: mosquitoes were out in full force—no way was I lighting a fire or hanging out outside, despite the layers of bug spray I slathered on. The second thing: the area had seen a ton of rain, leading to some serious flooding. My campsite was right on the banks of the Big Sioux River, which was pretty high.
Pictures: My Campsite | The swollen Big Sioux River
Deb walked me through the property and mentioned that I was the only guest that night. The property’s centerpiece is a large communal building with a bathroom, shower, electricity, Wi-Fi, and a spacious kitchen and living area. There’s also a small screened-in cottage I dubbed The Bar, complete with lounge chairs and a small bar—perfect for hanging out if the mosquitoes weren’t so relentless.
Pictures: The Main Building and Kitchen
Pictures: Men’s Bathroom and Shower
With more rain on the way and the bug situation being what it was, Deb suggested parking my SUV by The Bar and that I could sleep in my SUV, The Bar, or the main building. I was a bit concerned about potential flooding, but Deb assured me that even during the worst rains, this area stayed dry.
Pictures: “The Bar” and my rental SUV | Some of the cabins on the property
I spent a bit of time in The Bar, but with one door that didn’t quite close and a buggy, humid atmosphere, I decided to crash in the main building. The air-conditioned comfort and cozy couch made for a much better stay—until I woke up in the middle of the night!
Rain, Rain and more Rain!
Here’s where the fun really started. I woke up to a torrential downpour and decided to play it safe by packing up all my gear and stashing it by the door. With my car just 20 feet away, I figured if the river decided to crash its banks, I’d be ready for a quick getaway. I even ventured out to check if the land was turning into a water park or if the river had managed to sneak over its banks.
During a brief lull in the rain, I managed to get some stuff into the SUV. Sleep was elusive that night—flooding fears will do that to you. I was grateful for the cozy refuge of the main building. By morning, with the river still behaving itself, I showered, grabbed breakfast, and hit the road for my next adventure: Devil’s Gulch in Garretson, South Dakota. This quirky spot, highly recommended by Emily, the schoolteacher I met at Hawkeye Point, was conveniently on my route. I figured, why not? After all, you only live once, and a bit of spontaneous exploration never hurt anyone!
Barney Fife Sighting!
As I entered Garretson, South Dakota, the speed limit dropped pretty quickly and when I came over a small hill, there he was – Barney Fife! (I am sure most of you reading this will have to look up who Barney Fife was). Anyway, I was fortunate that I didn’t know where I was going, so I was driving super slow, so no ticket here. But come on Barney, why here? and why so early? Are there that many speeders in the metropolis of Garretson? Or maybe you’re still waiting for Jesse James?
Anyway, if you find yourself cruising through the quiet little town of Garretson, South Dakota, you might stumble upon a place that makes you wonder if you’ve accidentally wandered onto the set of an old Western movie. Welcome to Devil’s Gulch, where history and folklore collide in one of those “blink, and you’ll miss it” attractions that’s more charmingly quirky than downright terrifying.
The Outlaw Jesse James
So what’s the big deal about Devil’s Gulch? Well, legend has it that this narrow, rocky ravine is the very spot where notorious outlaw Jesse James made a daring escape on horseback after a failed bank robbery in Northfield, Minnesota. Now, the story goes that ol’ Jesse was being chased by an angry posse and, in a feat that would make any stuntman jealous, he spurred his horse to leap over the 20-foot-wide chasm to safety. Sure, it sounds a little far-fetched, but who are we to ruin a good story?
Today, visitors can stand at the edge of the gulch, peering down into the murky waters below, and wonder how on earth anyone – let alone a horse – could have made that jump. The truth? Well, it’s probably not quite as dramatic as the legend, but where’s the fun in that? So, if you’re in the mood for a roadside stop with a dash of tall tale and a sprinkle of “this place is just weird enough to be interesting,” Devil’s Gulch is the place for you.
I arrived just as the park was opening, and was immediately greeted by my own posse – that is by a posse of mosquitos. To avoid being eaten alive, like Clark Kent turning into Superman, I quickly suited up for my hike through the park, complete with – yes, you guessed it – copious amounts of bug spray.
Pictures: Trail Information | Trail Map| Trailhead and Donation Box to the right
The park isn’t huge, with ten site markers to discover, although I think I missed a few—probably while swatting mosquitos. The footbridge at the trailhead marks the spot where, in 1876, Jesse James supposedly coaxed his horse to jump the gulch. The open-grill metal bridge gives you a cool perspective on the impressive feat and a hint of what would happen if you didn’t make it across!
Pictures: The Spot where Jesse James jumped the Gulch | View from the River below (Marker #2)
Picture: View from the Bridge | Heading down to Marker #2
Once across the bridge, you’ll want to look for Marker #1: the Cedar Observation Point. Fun fact: Cedar trees are the only evergreen native to South Dakota. I’m pretty sure I saw this, just not the marker. Onward to Marker #2: River Observation Point. From here, you can look back up to the trailhead and get a sense of how high the jump was. You’ll also notice how the rock appears to be “stacked blocks,” one of the Gulch’s many mysteries.
Next up is Marker #3: Towering Rock. I took three pictures in the area, but honestly, I couldn’t tell you which one is Towering Rock. Oh well. Marker #4, another elusive one, is the Scenic Overlook, although I stumbled upon many scenic overlooks.
Pictures: The “Stacked Rocks” appearance of the Gulch walls | Towering Rock? (Marker #3)
Marker #5 is the Cobblestone Path—this one was pretty clear, as you can see in the pictures. As you hike along the rim overlooking the river, you’ll come upon Marker #6: the Waterfall Observation Point. This gives you a great view of the waterfall, which is fed by an underground spring at the top of the falls. Rounding the bend and crossing the next bridge, you’ll find yourself at The Devil’s Stairway/Kitchen—Marker #7. I never did spot the actual marker, but I knew I was in the right place. I decided to descend the stairway a bit. It’s pretty cool how the edges of the right wall are sharp, while the left wall is smooth—another mystery of the Gulch.
Pictures: Cobblestone Path (Marker #5) | Waterfall Observation Point (Marker #6)
Pictures: Devil’s Stairway/Kitchen (Marker #7) | Bridger over Devil’s Stairway
After crossing the bridge, Marker #8 is the Plateau Observation Point, offering a different view of the Gulch and the famous Sioux Quartzite rock. Soon, you’ll cross the last bridge—Devil’s Falls Cross Bridge, Marker #9. Yet another site where I couldn’t find the marker. Once across, you’ll see Marker #10, the Exit—pretty hard to miss. The exit leads you to the Visitor Center, which wasn’t open during my visit, and then to the parking lot.
Pictures: Devil’s Falls Cross Bridge | The Falls from the Bridge | The Gulch from the Bridge
Pictures: Marker #10 – The Exit and a sample of the Markers | The Visitor Center
And that, my friends, is the curious charm of Devil’s Gulch—where the legends are larger than life, the scenery is pretty cool, and the mosquitos are just as relentless (at least when I was there). So, if you’re up for a quirky detour with a side of tall tales, this is your kind of spot.
From Quirky Attraction to a Sacred Site
A mere 30-minute drive from Devil’s Gulch brings you to Pipestone National Monument in Pipestone, Minnesota—thanks to another great tip from Emily, the school teacher. She mentioned a cool waterfall, but little did I know the depth of spiritual significance that awaited me. When I arrived, I found myself alongside a group of old car enthusiasts, their classic cars adding an unexpected touch of nostalgia to the experience.
Pictures: The Visitor Center | A bonus for the visit—Classic Cars
This isn’t just any park. For over 3,000 years, Indigenous people have quarried the red stone here to craft pipes, or “calumets,” used in prayer and ceremony—a tradition still vibrant today. With its profound spiritual and cultural heritage, a visit to the visitor center is a must. There, you’ll dive into the site’s rich history through engaging exhibits and live demonstrations, including artists showcasing their craft.
As you step onto the Circle Trail—a 3/4-mile paved path—you’ll be immersed in the sacred landscape. Although flooding closed the bridge under the waterfall during my visit, the trail’s short length still allowed for an enriching experience. The rustling prairie grasses and pinkish-red cliffs create a tangible link to the generations who have revered this land long before Minnesota was a state.
The trail leads you past the Spotted Quarry, named for the distinctive appearance of the pipestone. You’ll also encounter Lake Hiawatha, a surprising gem in the middle of the prairie, created by the CCC-ID in the 1930s. As you approach Winnewissa Falls, the smooth sumac—green in summer but brilliant red in fall—adds a splash of color to the landscape.
Pictures: Spotted Quarry | Lake Hiawatha
Pictures: The creek flowing from the falls to Lake Hiawatha | My first glimpse of Winnewissa Falls
Around the falls, you’ll find sites like Old Stone Face and Glacial Ripples, along with the Nicollet Inscription, left by the French scientist Joseph Nicollet in 1838. Leaping Rock, where warriors demonstrated their bravery by jumping from the cliff onto the top of Leaping Rock roughly 12 feet away and jamming an arrow into one of the cracks.
Pictures: Nicollet Inscription | Leaping Rock
Winnewissa Falls, while not the most dramatic waterfall, holds a legendary tale. According to lore, the Great Spirit used the pipestone to form a pipe and smoke it over warring nations, urging them to lay down their arms. The nearby waterfall symbolically pours from the rock, representing peace.
Pictures: The best view I could capture of the falls with the bridge closed—From the Top | The stairs that connect the top and bottom of Winnewissa Falls
Returning to the Visitor Center and completing the Circle Trail, you’ll be greeted by the impressive Quartzite Cliffs and resilient plants thriving through rock cracks. Finally, you’ll reach The Oracle, a natural rock formation with a face-like profile that seems to watch over the land—a sacred spot where offerings were traditionally made in exchange for wisdom.
Visiting Pipestone National Monument offers a unique journey through both natural beauty and deep spiritual significance. The sacred landscape, with its historical and cultural richness, provides a profound connection to the past. It’s a reminder that every rock and trail tells a story that transcends time, making it a must-see for anyone seeking more than just a scenic view.
Next up: Fort Ransom State Park in North Dakota. Catch You on the Road!
