Travel Isn’t Alway Pretty
One of my all-time favorite chefs and globetrotters was the legendary Anthony Bourdain. He once said, “Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.”
Now, let’s talk about Cape May, New Jersey. This little beach hamlet managed to break my heart in ways I didn’t see coming. Sure, the journey was fun and educational, but it was also like an unseasoned clam chowder – something was missing. Granted, I visited during the off-season, which meant fewer crowds but also fewer attractions. But honestly, after hearing my travel buddy’s tales of the summer madness in these beach towns, I’m pretty relieved I dodged the peak tourist frenzy. Cape May might not have lived up to the hype, but hey, at least I got a history lesson out of it!
When on Holiday. . .
A little background on this excursion – I was visiting my buddy Phil and his wife Amanda in Lewes, Delaware. With Amanda tied up at work, Phil and I seized the opportunity for a boys’ day out, setting our sights on Cape May. Our journey began at the Lewes Ferry Terminal, one of the nicest I’ve seen, and the On the Rocks Dockside Grill. Now, ferry protocol: arrive early, check in, line up the car, head inside to chill, and wait for the call. And since work was the last thing on our minds, we cozied up to the bar for some top-notch Bloody Marys because, hey, when on holiday, it’s practically the law! Here is a link to the Cape May – Lewes Ferry.
Pictures: The Lewes Ferry Terminal
Pictures: The Lewes Ferry Terminal | The Breakfast of Champions
The “Call”
It’s like the iconic moment at the Indy 500 when they holler, “Drivers, Start Your Engines!” But here, at the ferry terminal, it’s our turn. A crackle over the PA system signals it’s time to hustle to our cars and prepare to board. These salty sailors work their magic, seamlessly ushering vehicles onto the ferry. Once aboard, we ascended to the upper deck, ready to soak in the 85-minute voyage to Cape May. Despite the November chill nipping at our noses, we braved the brisk air for a while before retreating indoors to explore the ship and chill a bit more. I bet the trip in the summer is even more amazing. But, alas, we made do. And just like that, as the shoreline drew near, the call echoed once more, beckoning us back to our car for the next leg of our adventure.
Pictures: Boarded and set to go! | Looking back at Lewes
Pictures: Bundled up for the Crossing | Approaching the Cape May Ferry Terminal | Passing a Ferry
Farm-to-Bottle
Southern New Jersey boasts rich farmland, offering bountiful harvests of fresh produce. This fertile region is known for its vibrant, community-driven agricultural traditions. Here, farmers cultivate a bounty of crops, from juicy tomatoes to sweet corn, under the sun-drenched skies of the Garden State.
Our next stop was Nauti Spirits, a true farm-to-bottle operation, which is also one of NJ’s largest distilleries, with two massive all-copper pot stills and a column still. It is located on a bucolic 60-acre coastal working farm that sits between the Atlantic Ocean and Delaware Bay, less than 5 minutes from (and between) downtown Cape May and the Cape May – Lewes Ferry. The distillery is unique in NJ, as they use much of what they grow on their farm to produce their spirits.
Pictures: Cool Vibe inside Nauti Spirts
Walking in, you’re hit with that vibe—cool, laid-back, and totally inviting. The staff? Top-notch. The place? Gorgeous, with sunflowers swaying in the breeze like a scene from a postcard. We sampled their spirits, and while they were good, let’s just say the bourbon left a little something to be desired for the price. But hey, it’s all about the experience, right? So we kicked back, sipping our cocktails, soaking in the vibe, and reveling in the beauty of local agriculture. Cheers to that!
Pictures: Sunflowers at Nauti Spirits | Bourbon on the Rocks and a Nauti Mule
Not So Lucky
Our stomachs growling, we decided to grab a bite before diving into our Cape May adventure. The chosen spot? Lucky Bones Back Water Grill. Not that it would matter to me (I’m a pescatarian), but with a name like Lucky Bones and the aroma of a pit barbecue as you stepped out of your car, you’d think the menu would scream BBQ. Spoiler alert: BBQ wasn’t the star of this show.
Curious about the quirky name, I found out that “Lucky Bone” refers to the peculiar hook-like claw of the male horseshoe crab. Back in Cape May’s whaling days, sailors deemed these claws lucky charms, taking them to sea for protection. Hence, the name “Lucky Bones.”
Pictures: The “Sargeant Joe Friday” Mahi Sandwich | Beer with more Personality
Back to our dining experience: we opted for bar seating, as the dining room felt like a relic from another era—eerily cavernous and devoid of charm. The menu? A nostalgic trip to the 1980s, alongside Banana Seat Bikes, Miami Vice suits, and leg warmers. The food was just okay—nothing disastrous, but certainly nothing to write home about. I ordered a Mahi sandwich with house-cut fries. Note to restaurant owners: if you’re going to boast about house-cut fries, make sure you know how to cook them properly! The sandwich itself was as bland and uninspired as Sergeant Joe Friday from Dragnet. At least the beer had a bit of personality, which was more than I could say for the rest of the meal.
A Step Back in Time
Cape May is home to one of the highest concentrations of Victorian homes (second only to San Francisco), drawing visitors from all over. We parked near the Washington Street Mall—a pedestrian promenade brimming with unique shops, quirky boutiques, a variety of restaurants, and laid-back bars. We decided to dive in and explore. The mall had some cool spots but didn’t quite blow us away, so we wandered into the Historic District. The tree-lined streets were dotted with Victorian homes, most of them impressively well-maintained. These ornate, colorful houses definitely added a touch of charm and old-world elegance to the area and I get why people are drawn here.
Picture: Victorian Homes in Cape May | NJ
Sun, Sand, and Surf
No visit to Cape May is complete without hitting its pristine beaches—though maybe when it’s a bit warmer! On Cape May Beach, we stumbled upon a quirky beach bunker, a World War II relic standing strong against time and tides. This concrete sentinel adds a dash of history to the sandy shore, perfect for snapping unique photos or pondering its storied past while soaking up the sun. We’d dive deeper into history the next day at Cape Henlopen State Park in Delaware, discovering how differently the two states approach these historic sites. Sorry Jersey, Delaware has you beat here.
Pictures: Cape May Bunker | Cape May Bunker and Lighthouse
Beacon of History
Our final pit stop: the Cape May Lighthouse, a beacon calling out to explorers like us. Built in 1859, this iconic landmark boasts a height of 157 feet and a staggering 199 steps to the top. Its guiding light once served as a vital navigational aid for ships sailing along the bustling East Coast. While we missed the chance to peek inside, its majestic presence alone was worth the visit.
Pictures: Two views of the Cape May Lighthouse
Pictures: From Cape May’s Maritime Past
Adventures in Okay
As Anthony Bourdain wisely said, “Travel isn’t always pretty…but that’s okay.” So, let’s talk about Cape May, New Jersey. Sure, it didn’t steal the show for me, but hey, that’s part of the adventure, right? From exploring quirky beach bunkers to tasting local spirits, it was a journey sprinkled with surprises and lessons learned. Each stop, whether stellar or just okay, added a new chapter to my story. And isn’t that what travel’s all about? Happy Travels!
Date of Visit: 5 November 2023
