Some places never lose their magic — no matter how many times you return. Torrey Pines State Natural Reserve is one of those rare spots. Perched above the Pacific in La Jolla, it’s a dramatic mix of rugged cliffs, rare pine trees, and golden beaches that somehow feels wild and refined at the same time.
Happy 2025! After a fun New Year’s Eve celebration in Nashville, raving to Sofia Kourtesis, a Peruvian-born, Berlin-based DJ, at the club Nigh We Met, I decided to kick off the new year with some exploring, hiking, and high-pointing. Why not start the year on a literal and figurative high note, right? Having visited 32 of the 50 Best State Parks (as noted by the travel blog The Discoverer), I still have a lot of ground to cover—literally! And with 32 of the 51 State High Points (yes, they’ve included the District of Columbia, because why not?) already under my belt, I figured 2025 was as good a year as any to tackle the rest. On the map below, red tree markers represent the parks I have yet to visit, while yellow mountain markers show the high points I still need to summit. For simplicity’s sake, I left out Alaska and Hawaii on the map, but rest assured—both their state parks and high points are on my list!
My road trip plan? Start in Nashville, cruise across the plains to Colorado, swing down to New Mexico, and then roll through the Southwest all the way to San Diego. Of course, no great road trip is complete without its hiccups—and mine came in the form of Flu A midway through. Spoiler alert: I’ll share all the gory details in my upcoming post about Panorama Point, the highest natural point in Nebraska. For now, let’s focus on the first big highlight of my trip: Historic Lake Scott State Park.
Nestled in the high plains of western Kansas, this hidden gem was my first stop. I haven’t spent much time in the Plains before, and honestly, that’s my bad. This region is stunning in a way that sneaks up on you, and Historic Lake Scott proved to be a winter wonderland. Picture frost-covered trees glittering in the morning sun and a peaceful stillness that made it feel like I had the whole park to myself. Sure, it was a brisk 18 degrees, but the solitude and beauty made it totally worth bundling up. If you’re picturing a place known for camping and summer lake vibes, you’re not wrong—but trust me, winter here is something truly special.
Located about 35 miles south of Interstate 70 or just 15 miles north of Scott City, Kansas, Historic Lake Scott State Park is a stunning 1,000-acre oasis of rugged canyons, rolling prairie, and lush woodlands. At its center lies the spring-fed Lake Scott, a sparkling gem framed by dramatic chalk bluffs and graceful cottonwood trees. The park’s striking terrain stands in vivid contrast to the surrounding plains, creating a picturesque retreat that feels like a hidden paradise for nature lovers.
The park’s elevation changes—a rarity in Kansas—create a landscape that feels almost otherworldly. The combination of natural springs, vibrant vegetation, and rocky outcrops attracts not only visitors but also a diverse array of wildlife. It’s a perfect destination for anyone seeking an escape into nature. Whether you’re an avid adventurer or a casual day-tripper, Historic Lake Scott State Park delivers something special for everyone: scenic trails for hiking and biking, water-based recreation, camping, opportunities for wildlife watching, and a chance to explore fascinating historical sites.
As I drove south on Kansas 95, my first glimpse of Lake Scott prompted an impromptu pull-over to snap a few pictures of the serene landscape. Next on my agenda was a visit to the Park Office—not just to pay the $5.00 Daily State Parking Permit fee but also to get the lay of the land. While there is a convenient pay station, I always prefer stopping by the office. It’s a great chance to pick up park insights and, if I’m lucky, snag some postcards to send to friends and family. Unfortunately, this time there were no postcards, but the ranger more than made up for it with helpful tips and a warm welcome.
As I stepped outside, something high above the Park Office caught my eye—two striking figures of Native Americans standing on the ridge, watching over the park. I immediately knew I had to explore the ridge and see them up close. This area was once home to the Plains Apache, who left behind fascinating remnants of their lives, such as tools and petroglyphs. Later, it became a historically significant site for the Northern Cheyenne. Suddenly, those figures on the ridge felt like much more than art—they were a meaningful nod to the people who had walked this land long before us.
Photos: Park Office | Self-Pay Station
The park boasts several miles of trails that meander through its wonderfully diverse landscapes, catering to hikers, horseback riders, mountain bikers, and nature lovers alike. A quick heads-up: trail names can vary depending on your source, and the signage isn’t exactly stellar. But don’t worry—you won’t get lost (promise!). Just be ready for a bit of a challenge, especially on the rugged West Bluff Trail.
I kicked off my first hike from the Big Springs Picnic Area, which offers two short but sweet trail options: the 0.4-mile Sunflower Trail and the 0.4-mile Big Springs Nature Trail. Fun fact (perhaps): the Sunflower Trail is actually part of the Big Springs Nature Trail. From Big Springs, I caught sight of the iconic Indian on horseback perched on the bluff—a preview of the adventure ahead.
Photos: Big Springs Picnic Area | Big Springs, if you zoom in, you can see the Indian on the Bluff (center)
There’s a bridge near the picnic area that I crossed initially, but I ended up doubling back and taking a trail to the left of it instead. That trail eventually led me up to the bluff. The path wasn’t exactly well-worn, so I took it slow on the way up—no need to rush when there’s so much natural beauty to soak in.
Photos: The Bridge at Big Springs | The Big Springs Nature/Sunflower Trail
From the top of the bluff, the views were absolutely stunning—sweeping vistas of the park’s dramatic terrain. And yes, I finally made it to the two elusive Indian statues! After some time enjoying the scenery, I looped back down on the far side of the spring. Honestly, it felt like more than 0.4 miles, but who’s counting when you’re on an adventure like this?
Photos: The Indians on the Bluff
Photos: Big Springs | Bird Statues in the Springs
Back in 1888, Herbert Steele staked his claim in Scott County and decided the future state park area was perfect for homesteading. Five years later, he married Eliza Landon, and they began their pioneer life in a humble dugout. Over time, they upgraded to a four-room sandstone house, with materials handpicked from the surrounding bluffs. Talk about an ambitious DIY project! Their preserved home, now a museum, offers a peek into the tools and furnishings of the 19th century—and yes, they wanted their homestead to become a public park. In 1928, their dream came true when the Kansas Forestry, Fish and Game Commission took over 1,280 acres, including the Steele homestead. I swung by their old homestead, curious to explore, only to discover that tours require pre-arranging with the park office. A mild bummer, but hey, I had trails to conquer.
Photos: Steele Home Museum | I guess Santa left his sleigh
Photos: The back of the Steele Home Museum | Lake Scott behind the Museum
Across the road from the homestead was a trailhead, so I parked my car, glanced around at the nearly deserted park, and headed up. And by “up,” I mean a steep climb where the trail splits into a guessing game of “Which way won’t make me regret my life choices?” Depending on who you ask, this is either the Lake Scott West Loop or the West Bluff Trail. Either way, I braved the 2.9 miles of loops and out-and-back paths to reach the top.
Photos: The Trailhead and the Mysterious Building | The Trail up to the Bluff
At the summit, there’s a mysterious building (purpose unknown) and the Steele Monument, which offers jaw-dropping views. From there, I scrambled down and then up again to the next bluff—because why stop at one steep climb when you can tackle two?
Photos: The Mysterious Building | The Steele Monument
Photos: Views from the Building
Back on the valley floor, the trail flattens out, lulling you into a false sense of security before you spot another bluff. This one features a bench perched dramatically at the top, called Buzzards Point. Naturally, I couldn’t resist climbing it, even though the ascent had me questioning my sanity. From Buzzards Point, I spied yet another bluff crowned with an American flag and another bench. Yes, of course, I climbed that one too.
Photos: Atop Buzzard’s Point
Photos: The Views of Lake Scott from Buzzard’s Point
Photos: The trail to the Bluff with the American Flag | Atop the Bluff with Old Glory
Photos: Looking down at the Point with the Bench | The trail I just came down from the Bluff Top
Eventually, I reached the end of the bluffs and spotted a herd of white-tailed deer—who promptly dashed away before I could snap a photo. At this point, AllTrails completely ghosted me, and I found myself following what seemed like a trail but might have been an ambitious deer path. Shortcut or not, it got me down to the valley floor. The way back was mostly flat and followed the road, with some sections doubling back and others skirting the base of the bluffs. I finally made it back to my car, scarfed down a snack, and geared up for the next leg of my adventure. Because when you’re in a place like this, the explorations never really end!
Just down the road lies El Cuartelejo, one of Lake Scott’s most significant historical sites. El Cuartelejo holds the distinction of being the northernmost pueblo in the United States. Built in 1664 by Taos Indians fleeing Spanish rule, the pueblo was constructed using stone from nearby hills, with walls plastered in adobe and roofs made from willow poles and mud. In 1696, Picuris Indians briefly reoccupied the site. By 1727, it was abandoned due to Comanche and Pawnee attacks. Rediscovered in the late 19th century, the site was excavated and restored in 1970. Today, visitors can explore this National Historic Landmark and its reconstructed foundations.
Photos: The sign at the parking lot marks the start of a short walk to the ruins | El Cuartelejo Monument | Historical Marker with detailed information
Photos: The Pueblo Ruins | A Detailed Floor Plan
Earlier at the park office, the ranger mentioned a unique new addition: a rentable stagecoach. This quirky overnight option seems to be trending in parks, as I recently spotted one at Fort Ransom State Park in North Dakota. The stagecoach is located near a couple of cozy rental cabins, offering more options for a memorable stay.
To wrap up the day, I headed to the beach. The area boasts a large campground and a spring-fed, crystal-clear lake that’s ideal for swimming, kayaking, and paddleboarding on warmer days. Anglers will love the well-stocked waters, home to largemouth bass, crappie, bluegill, and channel catfish. With fishing piers, boat ramps, and even a small beach, there’s something here for everyone to enjoy.
Photos: Lake Scott from the Beach | A chilly Lake Scott
While the park is open year-round, spring and fall are often considered the best times to visit. In spring, blooming wildflowers blanket the landscape, while fall transforms the cottonwoods into a striking palette of gold and orange, all under comfortably mild weather.
Summer brings its challenges with the heat, but the lake provides a refreshing escape. Winter visits, though less common, reveal a different kind of charm, as I can attest to. The snow-dusted bluffs and the frozen lake create a serene, almost otherworldly beauty that’s worth braving the chill to experience.
And that’s a wrap on Historic Lake Scott State Park, my first stop of 2025. With its frosty trees and rugged bluffs, it was a pleasant surprise to kick off the year. The park’s winter charm—snow-dusted landscapes and peaceful solitude—made it a great spot for some quiet exploration.
The trails were a good challenge (even if I did question my sanity a few times), and the views from the top were definitely rewarding. It wasn’t the most jaw-dropping place I’ve ever visited, but it offered a solid mix of history, nature, and a little adventure.
So, with one park down and a whole year ahead of me, it’s safe to say 2025 is shaping up to be a pretty incredible adventure. Here’s to the next stop—and whatever unexpected surprises it has in store!
Catch you on the trail!
Date of Visit: 3 January 2025
Ah, the joys of public rest stops – these are from Missouri. A place where the signs seem to exist more as a warning about human behavior than actual helpful tips. Case in point: one sign urging us not to wash dishes or blow our noses in the sink. I get the dishes—totally with you on that one—but blowing your nose in a public sink? Gross, guys. It’s a sink, not a tissue box! And the other sign—please don’t spit tobacco in the urinal? I mean, who exactly thought that was a good idea in the first place? These signs really make you question what led us to this point as a society. Ah, the life of humanity!
After soaking up the high from conquering Eagle Mountain and exploring Grand Marais, it was time to return to Tettegouche State Park and my new campsite. The drive back from Grand Marais was a pleasant hour, and I swung by the visitor center to check in again (see Part 1 of my adventure here).
My new site was further into Baptism River Campground, and I was genuinely impressed. The layout of this campground is top-notch—each site has its own space, so you’re not cheek-to-cheek with your neighbors. Of course, there was that one guy with the generator humming in the distance. I thought most of these sites had electricity? Maybe he missed the memo.
Evening came with a roaring fire, a glass of red wine, and one of my go-to camping meals: Yellow Tadka Dal from Trader Joe’s and Earthly Grains Basmati Rice from Aldi. These shelf-stable wonders were easy to whip up in my trusty cast iron skillet (a miracle I managed to pack it in my suitcase!).
Up and at it early again! I started my day with cold brew coffee and a splash of Coffee Mate (not ideal, but it lasts longer than real half-and-half in the wild). While soaking in the peaceful morning vibes, a snowshoe hare popped by for a visit. Fun fact: In Minnesota, these hares are dark brown in summer, but their coats turn snowy white in winter—a true fashion transformation known as leucism.
With clear blue skies overhead, I set off to see Two Step and High Falls from a fresh angle. The trailhead near Baptism River Campground gives you access to both falls, but from the opposite side of the river. I started with Two Step Falls, which came with a hefty 200-step descent—talk about earning your view!
Photos: The Trail and the Stairway to Two Step Falls
This view of Two Step Falls was absolutely breathtaking—definitely my favorite angle. I waded through the shallow waters to get up close, and was soon joined by a couple of guys with their eager dogs. I’m pretty sure the dogs were eyeing my adventure with a hint of envy, wishing they could splash around too!
As I hiked along, I came to a fork in the trail—left to the parking lot (for the non-campers) or straight ahead to High Falls. Naturally, I went for the High Falls route and was rewarded with a spacious overlook and a dramatic, pulpit-like platform. I couldn’t resist the urge to give an impromptu sermon to the forest creatures from my new perch.
Photos: High Falls Viewing Area | The Legendary Pulpit Spot!
The river views were spectacular, although the opposite side provides a better vantage of High Falls. I also came across the twisted wreckage of the swinging bridge—evidence of a storm that had made quite an impact.
Photos: Breathtaking Views of the Baptism River
Photos: High Falls from a Different Angle—Less Spectacular, but Still Stunning | The Twisted Swinging Bridge
After packing up, I made my way back to the visitor center and then hiked out to Shovel Point and then to the River Mouth. What a difference a couple of days can make! With the weather finally on my side, the park was busier but still a blast. The calm Lake Superior and turquoise waters at Shovel Point were mesmerizing. I chatted with a friendly couple and admired the view.
Photos: A Calmer Lake Superior – View from the Beach | Palisade Head in the Distance
Photos: Lake Superior’s Dual Personalities—Two Days, Two Vibes!
Photos: Lake Superior – Turquoise Water and Incredible Views
At the River Mouth, I climbed onto the rocks and, to my surprise, found myself part of a FaceTime call. Seriously, do we need to share our conversations with the entire world? I quickly made my escape to the rocky beach, where I enjoyed a peaceful moment with a lone seagull. As a group of teens descended with their towels and chatter, I decided I’d had my fill of the park for now and made my exit.
Photos: The River Mouth—Totally Different Feels!
Photos: Chillin’ with a Seagull | The Baptism River—A Much Calmer Day
As I drove out of the park on MN-61, I decided to revisit Palisade Head. This time, I drove up to the top. The area was bustling with motorcyclists, cars, and climbers. I walked around more, finally understanding the hype. The cliffs were indeed impressive, especially for climbers. I was glad I made the detour.
Photos: Palisade Head – Views Towards Shovel Point | Climbers Preparing to Conquer Palisade Head
Who knew that a place I initially knew little about would turn out to be such a treasure? Tettegouche State Park blew my expectations out of the water, leaving me in awe of its rugged beauty and diverse landscapes. This was my first foray into Minnesota’s North Shore, and let me tell you, it definitely won’t be my last. From the thrilling hikes and awe-inspiring waterfalls to the peaceful, misty mornings by the river, Tettegouche has it all. If you haven’t made the trip yet, put it at the top of your list. Trust me, you NEED to experience this hidden gem for yourself.
My next stop was Two Harbors, just a 30-minute drive down MN-61. I stayed at the Burlington Bay Campground, which was a stark contrast to Tettegouche—campsites were packed in like sardines, with zero privacy.
Photos: Burlington Bay Campground—Sardine City! | Two Harbors Beach
Craving a bit of nostalgia, I made a beeline for the 5th Street Malt Shoppe and treated myself to a scoop of Chocolate Peanut Butter with a side of Coffee Ice Cream. Back at the campground, I wrapped up the day with a glass of red wine on the beach, gearing up for my next adventure in Minneapolis.
Photos: 5th Street Malt Shoppe | My Delicious Reward!
In Minneapolis, I had to check out Kowalski’s Grocery, a renowned local chain. It did not disappoint! The pizza was tasty, though a bit light on basil. Definitely worth a visit if you’re in town. I also stopped by Goodwill to donate some camping gear I couldn’t take home—like a folding lounge chair.
Photos: Kowalkski’s in Minneapolis | Impressive Fish Counter!
Photos: Epic Prepared Goods Counter | My Pizza—Could’ve Used More Basil
Finally, I was off to the airport and then to Chicago for an REI class on Backcountry Navigation and Map Reading. Pro tip: Use TSA-approved locks for your luggage. I learned this the hard way when TSA had to cut off my lock due to my hastily purchased one not meeting their standards. Oh well!
And with that little adventure, my month-long trek through the Upper Midwest comes to an end. What a summer to remember!
Photos: A few of the Summer Highlights!
Catch you on the road!
Tettegouche State Park, perched along the rugged North Shore of Lake Superior in Minnesota, is more than just a park—it’s a treasure trove of natural beauty, history, and adventure. Spanning nearly 9,400 acres, it boasts six inland lakes, four stunning waterfalls, and 22 miles of hiking trails. Plus, it’s one of just four state parks in Minnesota with rock climbing. Whether you’re an adrenaline-pumping hiker or climber, an eagle-eyed birdwatcher, or just someone looking to soak in some serious tranquility, Tettegouche has got you covered. And trust me, this place is anything but ordinary.
But before diving into Tettegouche, let me set the scene. My journey began with a stop in Duluth, Minnesota, where I did something as mundane as laundry. Now, doing laundry at a laundromat might not sound like blog-worthy material, but hear me out. It’s in places like these where life unfolds in unexpected ways. At the laundromat, you get a front-row seat to humanity. From the overworked mom juggling kids and detergent to the retiree meticulously folding each shirt, you realize we’re all in this together, one spin cycle at a time. It’s a humbling reminder that no matter where the road takes us, we all have these shared, simple moments. Plus, my timing couldn’t have been better; the skies opened up with a torrential rainstorm, turning this simple chore into the perfect escape.
Afterward, I made my way to a quirky spot for the night: the Lakewalk Parking lot behind the Holiday Stationstore on London Road. My trusty SUV was once again my “tent,” and I rolled in with daylight to spare. I took the chance to stretch my legs on the Lakewalk, enjoying some stunning views of Lake Superior. The trail was buzzing with bikers, runners, and walkers—perfect for a little people-watching.
After dinner and a quick pit stop at the Holiday Stationstore (yes, I grabbed a drink to make using the restroom more legit), I settled in for the night. Not quite used to “roadside camping,” my sleep was a bit fitful. But by sunrise, the morning walkers had me up and at ’em. Clearly, this spot is where Duluthians kick off their day!
Photos: My Roadside Campground in Duluth, Minnesota
Bright and early the next morning, with a fresh cup of grind-and-brew coffee from the local Holiday Stationstore (bless those machines!), I set off for Tettegouche State Park. But hey, what’s a road trip without a few detours? My first spontaneous stop: Split Rock Lighthouse. Nestled dramatically on a cliff, this lighthouse has been guiding ships since 1910. Although it was too early for the lighthouse to be open (that’s what you get for being an early riser!), I still wandered the trails, soaking in the views of Lake Superior as the morning mist clung to the cliffs.
Not far from there was Palisade Head, a remote portion of Tettegouche. And yep, you guessed it—I was early again. But being early isn’t all bad; it meant I had the place to myself, which made the ½-mile hike up the road totally worth it. The views were nice, but I knew I’d have to come back to truly do this spot justice.
Photos: History of Palisade Head | Communication Tower on Palisade Head
Next stop: the Tettegouche Visitor Center. Even though I arrived before it officially opened, the restrooms were available, and let me tell you, they were more educational than your average pit stop. Imagine this: you’re in the stall, and there’s a poster teaching you how to pronounce “Tettegouche” (it’s Tet-a-goo-sh, in case you’re wondering) and sharing the history behind the park’s name. Who knew a bathroom break could double as a history lesson?
Photos: The Visitor Center | My History Lesson
Once the visitor center opened, I met Bev, a staff member with a wealth of knowledge and a contagious enthusiasm for the park. After chatting with her, I felt like I had the insider’s guide to Tettegouche, and she encouraged me to check out the Shovel Point Trail. But, in true Upper Midwest fashion, she also warned me about the stairs—lots of them. It seems like folks around here have a bit of a thing about stairs, but I wasn’t going to let that scare me off.
Photos: Park Maps and Information
Photos: Campground and Climbing Areas Maps
The Shovel Point Trail is a 0.6-mile journey that feels like stepping into another world. Starting at the visitor center, the trail winds along Lake Superior’s shoreline, with rugged cliffs and wooden boardwalks guiding your way. The day was overcast, with winds whipping off the lake, making the scene both dramatic and serene. Along the way, there’s a set of stairs leading down to the pebble-strewn Lake Superior Beach—a perfect spot for a quiet moment with the waves. And when you reach the end of the trail, you’re rewarded with a stunning view of Palisade Head to the west. The best part? I had the End of Shovel Point to myself, which made the experience even more special.
Photos: The Crashing Waves along Lake Superior Beach | Looking Down on Lake Superior Beach
Photos: The Boardwalks and Stairs Awaiting Your Adventure
Photos: Shovel Point’s Climbing Zone | A View from the Edge
Photos: The End of Shovel Point | Observation Deck with Amazing Views
After Shovel Point, I headed back to the visitor center, then took a short walk to the Baptism River Mouth. Here, the river meets Lake Superior, and it’s like nature’s version of a grand finale—water crashing against rocks, winds whipping through the trees, and the colors of the landscape shifting with the light. This was my first day at Tettegouche, and the weather added an extra layer of wildness to the scene. The river was a churning force, and the waves on the lake were anything but gentle.
Photos: Looking Up the Baptism River | A View of the River Mouth from the River’s Edge
Back at the visitor center, I couldn’t resist buying some postcards (I love sending those out from my travels—what can I say, I’m a bit old-school like that). I also had another chat with Bev, who, as it turns out, is from Ishpeming, Michigan—the same town I had driven through the day before. Small world, right? I told her about my pasty experience there, and she asked if I had seen the US Skiing and Snowboarding Hall of Fame. I hadn’t, but I did notice a cool statue of a ski jumper outside. Here’s the kicker: that statue, “Passion to Fly,” is of Bev’s cousin, who was a famous ski jumper! Moral of the story? Put down your phone and engage with the world around you. You never know what connections or stories you might uncover.
With the day still young, I decided to explore Illgen Falls. This 40-foot waterfall, located upstream from the High Falls, isn’t accessible from the park’s main trails, but it’s worth the extra effort. The best part? You can get really close to the falls, feeling the cool mist on your face as the water crashes down.
Photos: The Parking Lot off MN-1 | Illgen Falls and Devil’s Rock Trailhead
Photos: View from the Brink of the Falls | Illgen Falls
Photos: Illgen Falls: A Waterfall with Multiple Personalities
Feeling adventurous, I also hiked out to Devil’s Rock. I’ll be honest—it was a little underwhelming, but the hike itself was pleasant, and the mosquitoes were just starting to wake up as the day warmed up. Not to worry, though; a little bug spray kept them at bay.
Photos: Nature’s Quirky Sculpture | Devil’s Rock—Is It Really That Impressive?
After all that exploring, I took a quick trip into town for some gas, ice, and a postcard stamp run (thanks, Melissa, for the stamps—unfortunately, I didn’t bring enough on this trip). Then, I was back at the park, ready for more adventure. I parked at the High Falls Trailhead, eager to see the highest waterfall completely within Minnesota’s borders.
Photos: High Falls Trailhead | The Trail is a Blend of Boardwalks and Dirt Trails
The trail is 1.5 miles one way and is impressively maintained. You’ll navigate steep sections with wooden stairs, gravel paths, and some bare rock. Along the way, there’s a side trail with 200 steps down to Two Step Falls. It was a bit of an adventure, especially since a storm had wiped out the last set of stairs. The climb down to the river’s edge was a bit sketchy but totally doable!
Photos: The Steep Descent to Two Step Falls | The Section That Took a Dive
At last, the payoff: High Falls, cascading a dramatic 63 feet. The roar of the water and the mist it sends up are nothing short of mesmerizing, providing a refreshing cool-down after the hike.
I knew the trail ahead was closed due to the storm knocking out the swinging bridge (I’ll share some pics in Part 2). Still, I pushed on as far as I could to get as close as possible to the brink of the falls.
Photos: Looking Ahead: Left – The Bottom of High Falls and Right – The Brink and the Swinging Bridge (Well, What’s Left of It!) | Bonus: More Stairs for Extra Fun!
Photos: High Falls Brink | The Closed Trail | Across the River—Where I Was Supposed to Go (But Hey, Adventure Awaits!)
On the way back to the parking lot, I squeezed in a quick trail run—one of my favorite ways to enjoy the trails. fterward, I checked into my campsite, which involved a bit of a winding drive through the park to the Baptism River Campground. Like at Tahquamenon, the park was buzzing with activity, so I had to juggle campsites each night due to high demand. More on that in Part 2.
I settled into camp, lit a cozy fire, enjoyed a hearty dinner with a couple of cold ones, and hit the sack. It was a big day, and tomorrow promised an even bigger adventure as I geared up to tackle Eagle Mountain, Minnesota’s highest natural point.
Photos: My Campsite for the Night—Where the Magic Happens | Check Out This Epic Fire!
That’s a wrap on Part 1 of my Tettegouche escapade. Stick around for Part 2, where the sun finally shines, the trails beckon, and the park unveils even more of its magical charm. Trust me, you won’t want to miss it.
Catch you on the road!
Dates of Visit: 22 & 23 July 2024
Nestled in the heart of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, Tahquamenon Falls State Park is a treasure trove of natural wonders and breathtaking beauty. With nearly 50,000 acres of pristine wilderness, this park is home to one of the most impressive waterfall systems east of the Mississippi, drawing nature enthusiasts, photographers, and adventure seekers alike. Beyond the falls, Tahquamenon Falls State Park boasts over 35 miles of hiking trails that weave through dense forests, scenic overlooks, and along the picturesque Tahquamenon River. So, grab your bug spray, lace up those hiking boots, and let’s dive into my adventure through this U.P. gem!
Pronunciation Tip: Tahquamenon is pronounced tuh-KWAH-muh-non.
The crown jewels of Tahquamenon Falls State Park are undoubtedly the waterfalls themselves. The park features two main sets of falls: the Upper and Lower Falls. The Upper Falls, often referred to as the “Root Beer Falls” due to their distinctive amber color, are a sight to behold. Spanning 200 feet across and dropping nearly 50 feet, this waterfall is the second largest in volume east of the Mississippi River, only trailing Niagara Falls in size! The unique hue of the water is thanks to tannins leached from the cedar swamps that feed into the river—nature’s very own chemistry experiment. Visiting the Upper Falls offers multiple viewing platforms and trails that allow you to marvel at the roaring waters from various angles.
The Lower Falls offer a more intimate yet equally mesmerizing experience. This series of five smaller cascades encircle an island, accessible by rowboat or a charming footbridge. Exploring the island and the surrounding waters is like stepping into a tranquil escape—perfect for a leisurely day of picnicking, swimming, and photography.
I arrived in the afternoon, eager to explore. After checking into my campsite at the Rivermouth Campground, I couldn’t resist a quick detour north to Whitefish Point (check out my other post on Road Trippin’: The U.P.) – Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum and the historic Whitefish Point Lighthouse. On the way back to camp, I made a couple of stops that were just too good to pass up.
First, I swung by the Rivermouth Roadside Park, a small but scenic spot on the Lake Superior shoreline. Michigan seems to have a thing for these roadside parks, and honestly, I’m here for it. They’re like little oases for travelers, offering a place to picnic, rest, and soak in the scenery. A short hop down the road brought me to Clark Point Trail. Calling it a trail is a bit generous—it’s more like a quick walk from the parking lot to the lake—but it was fun exploring the shoreline. This spot is also a birdwatcher’s paradise, so bring your binoculars if that’s your thing.
Photos: Views from Rivermouth Roadside Park | And from the Clark Point Trail
Back at camp, I settled in for the evening with a campfire and dinner. But the real treat came later, as I headed to the campground’s beach on the Tahquamenon River. With golden hour approaching, I grabbed a cold one, found a log to perch on, and let nature’s show unfold before me. There’s something magical about watching the sun dip below the horizon while the river flows quietly by—it’s the perfect way to end a full day of adventure.
Photos: My Campsite | The Evening’s Fire
Photos: The Tahquamenon River – great for Kayaking | Enjoying a Cold One!
Photos: Enjoying Nature’s Show | Golden Hour at the Tahquamenon River
First, A note to fellow adventurers: Tahquamenon Falls has two main entrances, one at the Upper Falls and the other at the Lower Falls. It’s not uncommon to see long lines, especially in the morning or around 3 PM when campers are checking in.
Photo: Lower Falls Entrance from the Parking Lot | Hard to Get Lost Here!
Photos: Lower Falls Map | Upper Falls Map
The next morning, I was up early and ready to hit the trails. My first stop was the Lower Falls. After waiting a bit for the entrance booth to open on time at 8:00 AM (spoiler alert: it didn’t), I decided to get a head start on my day. I wasn’t going to let the rangers late start ruin my plans! Just up from the parking lot, there’s a handy area with bathrooms, the Lower Tahquamenon Falls Café & Gift Shop, and even rowboat rentals for exploring the Tahquamenon River. The hike from the gift shop to the Lower Falls is only a half-mile, mostly on a raised boardwalk. Being early, I had the place almost to myself, save for a few other early risers. Along the way, you’ll spot a wooden plaque featuring the Prayer of the Woods—a reminder to be mindful and respectful of the natural beauty around us.
Photos: Bear Cubs at Play – a sculpture at the entrance | Rowboats for Rent
Photos: The Boardwalk to the Lower Falls | The Prayer of the Woods
The Lower Falls consist of a series of five smaller falls cascading around an island. You can either view them from the riverbank or cross the Ronald A. Olson Island Bridge to explore the island. I’d recommend the latter—it’s a short half-mile loop around the island, and you get to see all five falls up close. Plus, the bridge itself is pretty cool, especially with the river roaring below after the recent rains.
Photos: Ronald A. Olson Island Bridge
Photos: The Island Loop – It’s pretty flat until you hit the boat dock area, where you’ll find a few stairs
Photos: Morning Views from the Island Loop
Photos: A few views of the Cascades at the Lower Falls from the Island
Feeling inspired and ready for a bigger adventure, I changed into my trail runners, grabbed my poles, and lathered myself in bug spray. My next challenge: the 4-mile one-way hike from the Lower Falls to the Upper Falls along the River Trail, known for its scenic beauty, winding through old-growth forests and along the river.
Now, let me give you a heads-up: this trek is not for everyone. It’s got its fair share of exposed roots, hilly terrain, numerous staircases, and was a bit overgrown in some areas. But if you’re up for the challenge, the rewards are more than worth it. At one point, I even stumbled upon a group of river otters frolicking along the riverbank. They didn’t notice me at first, but when I “clicked” to get their attention for a photo, they weren’t too thrilled and quickly disappeared into the water. I guess not everyone is a fan of the paparazzi!
One thing to note is that the trail isn’t always the best marked or maybe I just wasn’t paying attention. I may or may not have taken a wrong turn at one point, but hey, getting lost is part of the adventure, right?
Photos: River Trailhead at the Ronald A. Olson Island Bridge | Time to walk the plank and dodge some roots on the River Trail!
Photos: The River Trail – A fun combo of dirt paths and wooden boardwalks!
Photos: The Otters – Before they knew I was around | And after – when they gave me an earful!
Photos: Check out one of the amazing views of the Tahquamenon River along the trail! | And yep, even on the way up to the Upper Falls, you’ll hit some stairs going down—perfect cardio workout!
After what felt like a mini-marathon, I reached the Upper Falls. The 181 stairs down to the Gorge View seemed like child’s play after my hike, and the view was nothing short of spectacular. From here I got my first glimpse of this massive cascade with a nearly 50-foot drop and a width of over 200 feet. The sheer volume of water crashing down is mesmerizing—it’s said that during peak flow, over 50,000 gallons of water rush over the falls every second, hence getting the title of the second largest east of the Mississippi.
Photos: Coming off the River Trail and hitting the Upper Falls Viewing Areas | First stop: the Gorge View!
Photos: Stairmaster Workout – 181 stairs down to the Gorge, then back up
Photos: Boardwalk to the Viewing Area | Along the Gorge
If you’re a sucker for scenic spots, the Brink View area is another must-visit. After another 94 steps down, you’ll be rewarded with a front-row seat to one of nature’s most powerful shows. This area was definitely more popular, and I had to navigate around a few selfie-taking tourists, but the view was worth it. After taking in the sights, I headed to the Upper Falls parking lot, a short 0.3-mile walk on a paved walkway. This spot has some nice perks too, like the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub, Camp 33 Gift Shop, an outdoor picnic area, and even a food truck, though it wasn’t open when I visited.
After all that hiking, I figured I deserved a reward, so I made my way to the Brewery & Pub. Unfortunately, nothing on the menu really caught my eye, but I couldn’t pass up the chance to try one of their beers. I went with the Falls Tannin, an American Red Beer. It had that deep amber hue, just like the Upper Falls, but the taste was… well, just okay. Not exactly something to write home about, but it hit the spot after a long day on the trails.
Photos: Tahquamenon Falls Brewery | Tried the Falls Tannin – does it look like the falls? | Today’s brews!
Rested and refreshed, it was time to head back down the River Trail to the Lower Falls parking lot—a solid 4+ miles back. This time, I took the Nature Trail to the River Trail, the path I had hiked up earlier. Feeling a bit adventurous, I decided to turn the hike into a trail run. The path was getting busier with other hikers, so I had to weave around a few people, but it was a fun way to end the day.
Back at the Lower Falls parking lot, I packed up and headed to my campsite for the night—The Lower Falls Portage Campground. Back at the campsite, I treated myself to a hot shower, made another campfire, and settled in for the night. I had a 7-hour drive to Duluth, Minnesota, ahead of me the next day, so I knew it would be an early night. But as I sat by the fire with a cold drink in hand, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of contentment. Tahquamenon Falls State Park had lived up to every expectation and then some.
Tahquamenon Falls State Park is more than just a place to visit—it’s a place to experience. Whether you’re marveling at the mighty falls, exploring the serene hiking trails, or simply soaking in the natural beauty, this park offers something for everyone. And if you’re lucky, you might even have a few memorable encounters with the local wildlife. Just don’t forget to pack your bug spray, plan to camp in the park, and get ready for an adventure you won’t soon forget. So, what are you waiting for?
As I drove through the U.P., I kept seeing signs for pasties (pronounced pass-tee, not pay-stee.) —what are these mysterious pastry things? As a curious foodie, chef, and restauranteur (also a pescatarian), I had to find out. After some quick research, I found a place in Ishpeming that had a vegetarian option. I headed to Lawry’s Pasty Shop, only to be disappointed—apparently, they don’t cook the vegetarian ones on-site. Determined not to leave empty-handed, I backtracked to Irontown Pasties in the heart of Negaunee. After a bit of a wait (perfect for catching up on Words with Friends), I finally snagged a veggie-cheese pasty. The staff was super friendly, and when I asked about the “proper” way to eat it, they handed me a no-name ketchup bottle and said, “With ketchup!”
My first impression? Well, let’s just say it looked like an Irishman on the beach in Miami—stark white. The dough was a bit undercooked, especially where it was folded. The filling was a mix of broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, onion, potato, cream cheese, cheddar cheese, mozzarella cheese, and spices. It wasn’t horrible, but it wasn’t great either. It was like winning a match by default—you get the victory, but it feels a bit anticlimactic. With that, I headed for Duluth, Minnesota.
Photos: Irontown Pasties | My Veggie-Cheese Pasty – with a side of ketchup, of course!
Catch you on the road!
Dates of Visit: 20 & 21 July 2024
Meeting a Michigander usually comes with an impromptu geography lesson. They hold their left hand with the palm facing them to represent Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (U.P.), where the Yoopers reside. Their right hand held upright with the palm facing outward, maps out the Lower Peninsula—the area below the Mackinac Bridge, often called “The Mitten” and home to the Trolls. This hand map is a classic and quirky way for Michiganders to show off their state’s geography, which can be charmingly unique or, depending on your perspective, a bit annoying. Now let’s explore the U.P.
Photos: A Michigander Map | A Traditional Map
If the Great Lakes had a Greatest Hits album, it would definitely be titled Lighthouses & Waterfalls – these iconic features are everywhere you turn. After leaving L’Anse, I cruised east on US-41 for a scenic hour and fifteen minutes, landing in Marquette, Michigan—the largest city in the U.P. With a population of just under 20,000, Marquette blends small-town charm with big-city amenities. I love to make pit stops during my road trips, so naturally, Marquette called for a quick exploration.
This lakeside town boasts stunning Lake Superior views, and it’s home to Northern Michigan University, which adds a youthful vibe to the area. If you’ve got the time, a hike up Sugarloaf Mountain offers unbeatable vistas, with a panoramic view that stretches for miles—perfect for taking in the sheer scale of Lake Superior, which, by the way, holds enough water to cover North and South America in a foot of water. Or you can take a leisurely stroll along the harbor for some serious photo ops.
One stop you shouldn’t miss is the decommissioned Ore Dock, a towering relic of Marquette’s industrial past. Once a bustling hub for shipping iron ore, this massive structure now stands as a dramatic piece of history along the waterfront. Its rusted, steel frame and vast length make for an impressive sight, and the dock offers a unique perspective on the city’s maritime heritage. I also wandered over to the Marquette Harbor Light Station, only to discover you need to sign up for tours to actually explore the grounds—something to keep in mind if you plan a visit! It was a brief stop, but I’m glad I checked it out.
Check ☑️, saw Marquette.
Photos: The Lake Superior Shoreline | Marquette Harbor Light Station
Next up on my journey, Wagner Falls Scenic Site in Munising, Michigan—a spot that the Wisconsin ladies I met at Starved Rock State Park raved about. If you caught my earlier posts, you’ll remember these ladies also tipped me off about Parfrey’s Glen, which I checked out earlier this month. A quick 50-minute drive and I found myself at the falls.
Photos: The Trailhead | A Glimpse into the Park’s History
Wagner Falls is located just 1.5 miles south of Munising, right off Michigan 94. Parking is available on both sides of the road, and I managed to snag one of the last spots. This little gem is a Michigan State Scenic Site, and the 0.25-mile trail is an easy stroll that takes you through a dense forest of old-growth pine and hemlock trees. The falls themselves are a 20-foot cascade that tumbles over limestone and sandstone—geological formations that are hundreds of millions of years old. Perfect for those Insta-worthy pics. Be prepared, though—the place draws a crowd, including city folk who seem more glued to their phones than the stunning falls in front of them. But don’t let that stop you—Wagner Falls is definitely worth a stop if you’re passing through, though maybe not worth going out of your way for.
Photos: Wagner Creek | Wagner Falls and Scenic Observation Decks
I hit the road again, heading west toward Tahquamenon Falls State Park, a scenic hour and a half drive away. The park covers nearly 50,000 acres, making it Michigan’s second-largest state park. My spot for the night was Rivermouth Campground—about 17 miles from the Lower Falls and just 5 miles south of Paradise, Michigan, off Michigan 123. Weekends in the U.P. can get pretty busy, so I had to split my visit between two different campgrounds. But hey, I’m mobile, so no big deal!
Photos: Rivermouth Campground Entrance on Michigan 123 | My Campsite for the Night
With limited hiking options at Rivermouth, I decided to venture out to Whitefish Point. Even though I arrived just after the museum and lighthouse had closed, I was thrilled to still have the chance to explore the grounds and beach. Whitefish Point is home to the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum and the historic Whitefish Point Lighthouse—both perfect for a dose of maritime history. The museum’s exhibits on the infamous Edmund Fitzgerald are as fascinating as they are chilling, featuring haunting artifacts from the shipwreck, including the ship’s bell, which was recovered in 1995. Climbing the lighthouse offers breathtaking views of Lake Superior, and the beach is a treasure trove of driftwood and shipwreck debris. Did you know this area is considered the Graveyard of the Great Lakes? With over 240 shipwrecks in the Whitefish Point area alone since 1816, it’s a must-see for anyone fascinated by Great Lakes lore or simply looking for a memorable stop! Who knew I’d stumble upon such a cool place?
Photos: The Whitefish Point Light Station | An Iron Winch on the Museum grounds
Photos: Rudder from the M.M. Drake | History of the Graveyard of Lake Superior
Photos: Driftwood on the Beach | The Sandy Beach at Whitefish Point
The Edmund Fitzgerald, a massive freighter that met its tragic end in a fierce 1975 storm, remains one of the most haunting maritime mysteries. Gordon Lightfoot’s classic “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald” immortalizes the ship’s story with evocative lyrics and a soulful melody, paying tribute to the 29 crew members who lost their lives that night. Standing on that beach, gazing out at the vast expanse of Lake Superior, it felt like being at the ocean—and realizing this was the area where the Edmund Fitzgerald sank was truly awe-inspiring.
In the end, being spontaneous is what makes any road trip truly memorable. It’s those detours, the unplanned stops, and the little side adventures that often turn out to be the highlights of the journey. You never know what hidden gems you’ll stumble upon, like a lighthouse you didn’t plan to visit or a waterfall tucked away just off the road. And let’s be honest—you might not find yourself back in these parts anytime soon, so why not seize the moment and explore? It’s all part of the adventure, and sometimes, the best stories come from the places you didn’t even know you’d find. So next time, just go for it—you might just discover something amazing.
Catch you on the road!
Date of Visits: 20 July 2024
After wrapping up my adventure at Pipestone National Monument (check out my last post, Road Trippin’ From Iowa to North Dakota), I headed north on Interstate 29 to my 47th state—North Dakota. With Montana, Wyoming, and Alaska still on my bucket list, I was ready to explore Fort Ransom State Park and see what North Dakota had in store. Before diving into the park, I made a quick stop at the actual Fort Ransom site, located just 3 miles south of the park entrance, to kick off my North Dakota adventure with a bit of history.
Photos: The Historic Fort Ransom Site | Entrance to Fort Ransom State Park
As I rolled into Fort Ransom State Park, it felt like I had driven straight into a scene from Dances with Wolves. I half expected Lieutenant John Dunbar (Kevin Costner) to come galloping up and ask what I was doing there. The rugged terrain, lush greenery, and sweeping views felt straight out of a classic Western—a perfect setting for some epic outdoor adventures.
Upon arrival, I made a beeline for the visitor center. Even though I had a camping reservation, North Dakota has this quirky little rule where you still have to pay an entrance fee. They don’t roll it into the camping fee, which I found a bit odd. The woman at the visitor center was friendly but sad to say didn’t have much to add about the park’s highlights. However, she did tip me off about the $7 firewood bundles sold by the camp host—a tale for later in this post. With map in hand, I headed to my campsite, lucky number 23, and got settled in.
Photos: Visitor Center | My Campsite – Lucky #23
Photos: Trail Map | Campground Maps and Park Information
As I set up my campsite, I couldn’t help but notice the area’s unique blend of rolling hills, dense trees, and sprawling farmland. The mosquitoes were out, but they were nowhere near as bad as the swarms I encountered in Wisconsin and Iowa. With a bit of daylight left, I decided to explore a bit.
I set off on a roughly 2-mile loop, starting from the back of the campground. My journey began on the South Gate Trail, where I crossed the North Country Trail before following a service road down to the Pederson Hills Trailhead. This trail starts with an incline through oak woodlands, up to a ridgeline, and across mixed-grass prairie, offering stunning views of the countryside. From there, I followed the Spur Trail—a winding connector between the Pederson Hills and Ridgeline Nature Trails.
Photos: Pederson Hills Trail
Photos: Some of the many trailmarkers including where the Spur Trail meets the Ridgeline Nature Trail
A short trek down the Ridgeline Nature Trail led me to Yurt Loop, where the park’s quirky yurts immediately caught my eye. These unique accommodations, along with a refurbished stagecoach, add a charming Old West touch to your stay. As evening settled in, I marveled at how long the daylight lingered and how cool the temperature had dropped. Despite the crisp night air, my car stayed surprisingly warm—if only there had been a breeze to stir things up a bit.
Photos: One of the Yurts | The Percheron Wagon for a one-of-a-kind stay!
Camping at Fort Ransom State Park was the perfect way to soak in the park’s tranquil beauty. My campsite, nestled in a shaded corner of the campground, offered just the right balance of seclusion and proximity to the bathrooms and shower house. The only hiccup? A determined bird dive-bombed my head as I walked across the field, despite there being no trees nearby—definitely an unexpected challenge! On the bright side, I stumbled upon a cute painted rock on a bench near the building. As night fell, I enjoyed stargazing under a clear sky, free from city lights and treated to a breathtaking display of stars.
If you’re planning a visit to Fort Ransom, I highly recommend camping. Whether you’re staying in a tent, a yurt, or even the quirky refurbished stagecoach, it’s the perfect way to experience the park’s unique charm. Just a heads-up: if you’re hoping to grab a $7 bundle of firewood from the camp host, be prepared for a bit of luck. Unfortunately, the day I arrived was his day off, so I had to make a quick trip into town to stock up.
Photos: Bathrooms and Shower House | The Painted Rock I Found
The next morning, I was up and at it early. After a quick shower and some organizational maneuvers for my upcoming trip to Chicago, I hit the trails. It’s worth noting that I was pretty shocked at how late campers sleep in. By 9:15 AM, I had done so much and I was ready to go, but most of the camp was still snoozing away. Don’t get me wrong—I’m all for a good night’s sleep, but the day is slipping by folks!
One thing that really impressed me was how well-labeled the trails are at Fort Ransom. My hike started with a visit to the picnic pavilions, where I discovered a volleyball court—a fun spot for groups looking to mix a bit of sports with their nature retreat. After a quick pit stop at the outhouse, I set off on the Ridge Line Trail. The breeze had picked up, which was a blessing for keeping both the bugs and the heat at bay. The trail itself was peaceful, with the melodic chirping of birds providing the perfect soundtrack to my hike.
Photos: One of the Picnic Pavilions | A Pit Toilet, aka Outhouse
From Yurt Loop, I climbed back up the Ridgeline Nature Trail, which offered a good cardio workout with its elevation changes. As I hiked, I encountered some intriguing trail markers, including cryptic letters that I still need to decode. At the top, the trail forked, and I chose to go left, continuing on the Ridgeline Nature Trail. This section was marked by horse tracks and the occasional road apple (aka horse manure), indicating the trail’s popularity with equestrians.
Photos: On the way to Yurt Loop | Ridgeline Nature Trailhead
Fort Ransom State Park boasts over 20 miles of non-motorized trails, including loops, connectors, and segments suitable for hiking, horseback riding, biking, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing. As one of North Dakota’s designated horse parks, it’s equipped with 68 corrals, catering to both riders and horses.
The Ridgeline Nature Trail offered a mix of serene flat stretches and some elevation changes, with occasional deer tracks adding to the sense of wilderness. I briefly explored the Nelson 80 Trail, but found it rather flat and unremarkable, so I quickly returned to the Ridgeline. I then connected with the Firebreak Trail, which led me to a junction with several other trails, including the Little Twig Trail. The entire stretch from the start of Ridgeline Nature Trail to the Little Twig Trail junction was only about 8/10ths of a mile. A good warm-up for the day.
Photos: Deer Trakcs | The endless Nelson 80 Trail
The Little Twig Trail, a short 6/10-mile path, provided a relaxing stroll with the soothing sound of a bubbling brook enhancing the peaceful vibe. However, the recent heavy rains had caused some sections of the trail to flood, and the brook was overflowing. A bridge up ahead looked like it had definitely seen better days—possibly the one the visitor center staff had mentioned.
Despite the wet conditions, I pressed on and found myself at the Little Twig trailhead, located on the backside of the Yurt Loop. This marked a full loop back to where I had started earlier in the day, but I wasn’t done yet.
Photos: Brook along the Little Twig Trail | The Brook Overrunneth
Photos: More of the wet Little Twig Trail
After leaving the Little Twig trailhead, I made my way toward the North Fork Trail. With the parallel road blocked off to car traffic, I opted to hike up the road to the ridge instead. The choice was a breeze—literally—since the road was less buggy and offered a refreshing wind.
Photos: Road and Trail Intersection—Redetzke Ridge Trail (where I’ll loop back) branches off to the right | The Road Leading Up to Valley and Prairie Vista
Photos: At the Vista—A Glimpse of the Area’s History and About the Prairie
At the top, I reached the Valley and Prairie Vista, where the panoramic views and cooling breeze made the climb totally worth it. This spot is a must-visit in the park, offering a serene overlook perfect for soaking in the scenery, grabbing a snack, and snapping a few pics for the ‘Gram.
From there, I continued on the Valley View Trail, a 0.8-mile multi-use path that begins at the Scenic Overlook parking lot and winds its way down to the Sunne Farm. The trail offers stunning views of the Sheyenne River Valley as it curves along native prairie slopes, dotted with grasses and colorful wildflowers. After crossing the intersection with Redetzke Ridge Trail, I kept heading toward the Sunne Farm.
Photos: The Valley View Trail—A Long, Flat Stretch, Perfect for Horseback Riding
The Valley View Trail led me to a farm that felt like a step back in time. One of the highlights was meeting Troy the blacksmith, whose family has been practicing the trade since 1880. The farm offered a unique glimpse into the park’s agricultural roots, providing a peaceful setting to reflect on the area’s rich history. The staff was bustling, preparing for Sodbuster Days—a local annual festival that celebrates the region’s agricultural heritage. They were surprised to hear I wasn’t sticking around for the event, which is known for its tractor parades, old-fashioned games, farm-fresh produce, homemade treats, and local crafts. If you’re in the area during this time, it’s definitely worth checking out.
Photos: Highlights from Sunne Farm
Photo: Troy’s Blacksmith Shop
Photos: More Highlights | Getting ready for Sodbusters Day
With the farm visit behind me, I made my way back toward the Redetzke Ridge Trail. Although the road offered an easier route, I chose the trail for its scenic appeal—and it didn’t disappoint. The Redetzke Ridge Trail didn’t disappoint, offering beautiful views and a more immersive experience in the park’s natural beauty. By noon, I found myself back at the intersection of the road and Redetzke Ridge, feeling accomplished and ready for a well-deserved break. I headed back to camp, where I showered, wrote a few postcards, and enjoyed some quiet time.
Photo: Heading Back Up the Valley View Trail | Where Valley View and Redetzke Ridge Trails Meet
Photos: A Few of the Wildflowers You’ll Encounter on Your Hikes
Fort Ransom State Park may not be a bucket-list destination like Yosemite, but it’s definitely worth a visit if you find yourself in North Dakota. The park’s blend of history, scenic trails, and peaceful vibes offers a refreshing escape into nature. Whether you’re hiking, horseback riding, or just soaking in the views, Fort Ransom provides plenty of reasons to slow down and enjoy the simpler things. So if you’re passing through, don’t miss out on this little slice of prairie paradise—you might just discover a new favorite spot!
Next up, I made a stop at the Fargo Visitor Center to check out the infamous wood chipper from the movie Fargo—because, when in North Dakota, how could you not? But that wasn’t the only surprise. I spotted a Facebook post from my old friend, Tim from Orlando, who just so happened to be hosting a garage sale nearby. I couldn’t resist swinging by to surprise him. It was a fun little reunion, and if I wasn’t on a tight schedule, I would’ve stuck around longer. Nonetheless, it was the perfect way to wrap up my North Dakota adventure before heading to Minneapolis to stash my camping gear. Chicago’s next on the agenda, and then back to Minneapolis for round two! Catch You on the Road!
Photos: The Famous Wood Chipper from Fargo | Not Looking Too Scary Using to It, LOL
Photos: Mini Reunion with Tim | My Minneapolis Storage Unit
Dates of Visit: 10 – 12 July 2024
Calling Devil’s Lake State Park “popular” is like calling the Grand Canyon “a big hole”—a serious understatement! This place is the ultimate playground, with a sandy beach, picnic areas, and trails even the most leisurely strollers can handle. It reminded me of Lincoln Woods State Park in Rhode Island, especially when I was high up on the West Bluff trail, still catching the sounds of beachside fun. Locals flock here like it’s the first sunny day in ages, and with a $16 car fee for non-residents ($13 for residents), that popularity comes at a price. So, if you’re planning a visit, be ready for crowds, long waits, and packed parking lots—especially on weekends and holidays. As Wisconsin’s DNR warns, “Visitors to Devil’s Lake should expect long wait times and busy parking lots from May through October on weekends and holidays. Parking lots often fill before 9 a.m., and access to the park may be temporarily restricted until congestion lessens.”
Pictures: North Entrance | Sign Near the North Shore Concession Area – Popular for Pictures!
Over 14,000 years ago, during the last Ice Age, Devil’s Lake in Wisconsin was born—not out of anything devilish, but thanks to retreating glaciers. These icy giants carved out the stunning lake we see today, cradled by towering bluffs. The Ho-Chunk people, the original caretakers of this land, called it Tee Wakącąk, honoring its deep spiritual significance as a sacred place.
When European settlers showed up, they often misunderstood or overlooked the spiritual importance of such sites. That’s how “Devil’s Lake” came to be, even though names like “Lake of the Two Hills” or “Wild Beauty Lake” would have been a better fit. But the mysterious, slightly spooky name stuck, adding an extra layer of intrigue.
In 1911, Devil’s Lake was officially designated a state park, preserving this natural wonder for all to enjoy. Today, the park covers over 9,200 acres, offering endless opportunities for adventure. Whether you’re hiking the rugged bluffs, paddling across the crystal-clear waters, or just soaking in the view, remember: this isn’t just a pretty spot. It’s a place steeped in history, shaped by glaciers, revered by the Ho-Chunk, and with a story stretching back over 14,000 years.
After my morning hike at Parfrey’s Glen Natural Area (right next door to Devil’s Lake State Park), I made my way to the North Entrance of Devil’s Lake for two full days of exploring and adventure. With all the hype around this place, I wanted to take my time and soak it all in, not rush through it. As I mentioned in my Parfrey’s Glen post, I grabbed a parking voucher to redeem at a State Park Office—conveniently, there’s one right at Devil’s Lake. The whole process of getting the annual pass was a breeze. I pulled into a spot, slapped the pass on my rental SUV, and voilà—free entry to any Wisconsin State Park for the rest of 2024, as long as I stick with the same rental car! 🤣🤣🤣
Pictures: Day 1 – West Bluff Trail | Day 2 – East Bluff Trail
With the day still young and the park not too crowded, I decided to make a quick run to the local Walmart for some provisions. I’ll admit, Walmart is one of my go-to spots when I’m hiking or road-tripping. That, Aldi, and if I’m lucky, Trader Joe’s—predictable and reasonably priced.
Next up: firewood. Here’s the deal—don’t move firewood! Seriously, buy it where you burn it. There’s even a whole organization and website dedicated to this cause, complete with state-specific regulations: DontMoveFirewood.org. In Wisconsin, if you’re buying uncertified wood, it must originate within 10 miles of the park. The responsible choice? Get your wood from the park or a certified dealer. From my experience, park prices are usually on par with roadside stands. So, do the right thing and buy local!
With provisions and local firewood in hand, I headed back to the park. The parking lot was starting to fill up, though it wasn’t packed yet—probably a bit too early for the city folk, lol. I made a quick detour to the gift shop to grab my obligatory postcards. Yep, I’m that person who still loves sending postcards from my travels—call me old school, but it’s a blast. After stashing my new postcards in the car, I figured I’d take advantage of the decent weather (overcast, with rain lurking in the forecast) and hit the West Bluff Trail. It’s a 1.4-mile trek that takes you to the South Shore.
Starting from the North Shore beach and picnic area, the trail kicks off with a stair workout—210 steps, if you’re counting, before it finally flattens out. As I climbed, I noticed the steps were paved. It didn’t really bother me at first—I just figured they did it to keep the stairs from eroding. But when I got to the top and realized the entire trail was paved, I was a bit thrown off. It’s hard to feel like you’re out in nature when the ground beneath your shoes is as smooth as a city sidewalk. Plus, the downslopes were slippery with even the tiniest hint of moisture. Maybe they paved it to handle the wear and tear of thousands of hikers? Still, it felt like I’d never really left the city.
Pictures: West Bluff Trailhead | West Bluff Trail – it starts out like a real trail
Pictures: The beginning of the 210 Stairs | The Paved Trail
Speaking of city vibes, the closer I got to the bluff, the more I could hear the holiday weekend crowd. The beach and picnic area were buzzing with laughter and music. And just to drive the point home, as I rounded a corner, I bumped into three women, one of whom was blasting tunes on her phone, shattering the natural silence.
Despite the paved trail and city folk, the West Bluff Trail serves up some seriously spectacular views of the lake and surrounding area. You’ll find yourself constantly stopping for photos—just when you think you’ve nailed the perfect shot, a new angle pops up, and you’re snapping away again.
Pictures: A rare moment where I’m not snapping a selfie! I had to give some directions for this shot. The rock is actually hanging off the cliff, but it didn’t quite come out as I pictured. Oh well.
Pictures: Devil’s Lake looking North, then South
What goes up, must come down! As I approached the South Shore, it was time to tackle another set of stairs. Emerging from the trees, I found myself at the start of the Tumbled Rocks Trail (more on that in a bit).
I decided to walk along the South Shore before heading back to the North Shore, and boy, am I glad I did! I always try to stay sharp when I’m out hiking, hoping to catch those rare, magical glimpses of nature. As I wandered along the rocky shore, peering through the boulders, my eye landed on a Water Snake lounging on a rock. As I looked closer, I could see the outline of a fish in its belly! Clearly, the little guy was taking a breather to digest its meal. How cool is that? Later, a volunteer at the nature center told me that while these snakes aren’t venomous, they pack a nasty bite that hurts like heck. Good to know if I ever decide to take a dip in the lake!
Pictures: Spotted a Water Snake! | Close-up—check out the fish in its belly on the right
Knowing I had another day to soak up the adventure, I planned to conquer the East Bluff from North Shore to South Shore. I headed back to the Tumbled Rocks Trail, a one-mile trek that snakes along the lake’s edge through a sprawling boulder field. These massive boulders stretch from the water’s edge up to the bluff’s rim, and looking up at them, I couldn’t help but be reminded of the boulder field on Abol Trail at Mt. Katahdin. The trail here is well-carved and easy to navigate—no steep stair-climbing required, which means it’s a bit of a hotspot. Despite the crowd, I decided to kick things up a notch with a trail run back to the North Shore.
Pictures: Tumbled Rock Trailhead – South Shore | View along the Tumbled Rock Trail | Tumbled Rock Trail
So, off I went, running along the Tumbled Rocks Trail. The boulder fields really did give me flashbacks to the Abol Trail on Katahdin. It was a fun run, and for the most part, folks were kind enough to step aside as I approached. Before I knew it, I was back at the North Shore—aka picnic central—and figured it was high time to check into my campsite.
Pictures: The Boulder Field along Tumbled Rock Trail (Pro tip: there’s an easy path through it!)
Devil’s Lake boasts three campgrounds with a total of 423 campsites. Mine was in the Quartzite Campground, right by the North Entrance. Off I went to track down my site and get everything set up. Now, setting up doesn’t take me long because, on this trip, I’m camping in the back of my SUV. All I had to do was unload the firewood, set up my chair, plug in the extension cord, and pop those cool mesh screens onto the back windows. These screens are a game-changer—they slip over the door frame, letting fresh air in while keeping the bugs out. Perfect for a cool breeze as I sleep!
Pictures: My SUV and Camping Set-Up | Mesh Door Screen for a breezy, bug-free night
With some time to spare before sunset (more on that later), I cracked open a beer and grabbed some snacks. Shoutout to my buddy Peter from Australia—check out the beer cozy in the pic! It’s for the female jazz trio Tokyo Groove Jyoshi. Peter’s managing the band, and I got to see them live when they recently played in Vegas. Definitely give them a listen!
Pictures: Camping Vibes wtih Tokyo Groove | Tokyo Groove Jyoshi, (from left) Mimi, Rina, Emi.
As I settled in, I found myself unexpectedly entertained by the arrival of more campers. Watching people maneuver their rigs and park their campers turned into a comedy show. The way folks navigated “helpful” advice while hunting for the perfect spot was a masterclass in patience and communication—especially between men and women! It was downright hilarious to see who took charge during the setup and, honestly, what some people deem essential for a camping trip. Overkill, if you ask me, but hey, to each their own! And, okay, I know—I’ve got an extension cord to charge my phone and work on my laptop, so I guess I’m not entirely off the hook either.
I’d heard the sunsets here are nothing short of spectacular, but finding the perfect spot is part of the adventure. So, I set off on the East Bluff Trail, determined to catch the show. As I climbed up to the bluffs, I couldn’t help but notice a group of kids I’d seen earlier at the boat rental and ice cream stands. They were on a mission, heading toward “their” sunset-watching spot like seasoned pros. It was like a scene straight out of Grease—their carefree vibe, their youthful energy—I half expected them to break into song:
Summer lovin’, had me a blast
Summer lovin’, happened so fast
I met a girl crazy for me
Met a boy cute as can be
Summer days drifting away
To uh, oh those summer nights…
Ah, to be young, with the world at your feet—or at least the best sunset view in the park. I found a couple of decent spots to soak in the sunset, but looking back (after hiking the entire East Bluff Trail the next day), I probably should’ve ventured a bit further down the trail for an even more spectacular view. But hey, you live and learn! In the end, I couldn’t complain—perched on top of the bluff, watching the sun dip below the horizon, was pretty magical.
As the sun finally disappeared below the horizon, I made my way back to my campsite, ready to cap off the day in style. I fired up the campfire, cracked open a cold one, and dug into some well-earned snacks. After a day of hiking and soaking in epic views, there’s no better way to wrap things up than with good food, a warm fire, and a little bit of chill time under the stars.
Most campgrounds shut down pretty early, and even have quiet times. Not that you can’t stay up late, but with a big day of hiking ahead, I decided to hit the sack around 10:30 pm. Just as I was getting cozy in my sleeping bag, my car alarm suddenly blared to life. Yep, I was that person. And not just once—the alarm went off three times! So much for a peaceful night. I barely slept, worried it might happen again, and ended up leaving the doors unlocked, which thankfully did the trick. Turns out, if I’d just locked the doors manually instead of using the FOB, the alarm wouldn’t have triggered. Apparently, my car has a safety feature that goes off if it senses weight in the backseat after locking—probably to keep you from accidentally leaving your kid or pet behind. Nice in theory, but not so much for my camping adventure!
Isn’t it ironic that people go to bed early when camping but aren’t up at the crack of dawn? I’m not talking 5 AM early—just a solid 8 AM. Come on, folks, seize the day! But enough of my rant; let’s talk morning traditions. For me, it’s all about a dark, cold-brew coffee with a splash of half-and-half. It’s the perfect caffeine fix without needing to fuss over a campfire. Or, I guess I could be like the folks in the camper next to me who just plug in the coffee maker they brought from home.
As I sat there enjoying my coffee, I heard some rustling near the car. Oh great—just what I needed. I’d started a trash bag and planned to toss it on my way to the hike, but those sneaky squirrels got to it first! I know we’re out in nature, but come on! My campsite wasn’t even near the tree line, and yet, these opportunistic little buggers still found their way to my trash. Classic.
The East Bluff Trailhead was just a half-mile from my campsite, so off I went. The morning greeted me with some blue sky—something I missed the day before—perfect for snapping photos of the lake. Before tackling the East Bluff Trail, I made a quick detour to the lake. I crossed over the train tracks—Wisconsin & Southern has active tracks running along the east side of the lake and between two of the campgrounds. During my stay, I caught a few trains in action, so if you’re exploring near the tracks, keep your eyes peeled!
Then, it was time for the East Bluff Trail, a breezy 1.1-mile hike down to the Balanced Rock Trail. The trail splits early on: to the left is the East Bluff Woods Trail, and to the right is the East Bluff Trail—the same route I took the night before to catch the sunset. I headed right, where you’ll find some of the park’s iconic features. Just like the West Bluff Trail, you start with a series of stairs leading up to the bluff’s top.
Pictures: East Bluff Trailhead | The beginning of East Bluff Trail
Pictures: Trail Split – East Bluff to the right and East Bluff Woods to the left | The trails are well marked
Pictures: Stairs Leading Up East Bluff Trail | The Rock Where I Sat to Catch the Sunset Last Night
First up is Elephant Rock, which has sparked a bit of debate. Officially, it’s called Elephant Rock, but I’m with the Bison camp on this one—it definitely looks more like a Bison. Maybe Wisconsin should put it on the ballot this November and settle the debate once and for all!
As I hiked, I enjoyed the early morning peace—everyone else was either still snoozing or having breakfast. Well, that tranquil vibe didn’t last long. The silence was soon shattered by a family with two kids who thought the forest was their personal playground.
Just like the West Bluff, the East Bluff Trail offers plenty of spots for stunning lake and landscape photos. But unlike yesterday, the bugs were out in force today. I definitely need to up my bug spray game; no matter how much I apply, it feels like they’re on me non-stop. Ugh. Another thing to note: the East Bluff Trail has more varied terrain with some ups and downs, adding a bit more challenge. Nothing too extreme, but worth noting if you’re planning your hike.
Pictures: View of Devil’s Lake from the East Bluff Trail | North Shore Beach with Train Tracks Alongside the Lake
Pictures: Views of Devil’s Lake from the East Bluff Trail
Pictures: Looking towards the North Beach | Some of the Wildlife – A Hawk | Look towards the SOut
When it comes to iconic features of the park, Balance Rock definitely steals the show. But don’t worry about dodging hordes of tourists—this spot has its own set of challenges. I counted 319 steps down, and let’s just say they’re not the easy kind you’d find on the West Bluff Trail. Sure, it gets busy in the summer, but those steps are a pretty effective crowd deterrent. If you’re not too steady on your feet or if hiking isn’t quite your thing, you might want to think twice. However, the trek is definitely worth it—not only for the impressive rock but also for the stunning lake views.
Pictures: Balanced Rock Trail Marker | The Stairs down to Balance Rock
Pictures: I love finding cool mushrooms | Seriously?!! – Trash left behind – Please Leave No Trace! | Climbing those stairs: 319 steps to the top!
From there, I continued along the East Bluff Trail for a bit to check out another park favorite: Devil’s Doorway. To get there, you’ll tackle more stairs, but thankfully, not as many as to Balance Rock. Some websites give a heads-up about the steep and uneven stone steps and the narrow rock ledge with drop-offs, warning that hikers need to be extra cautious. And yes, while that’s crucial advice, it goes without saying that you should always stay alert while hiking. Devil’s Doorway is a cool spot with even more fantastic views of the lake, making the careful trek well worth it.
Pictures: Trail Marker to the Devil’s Doorway | Devil’s Doorway
Picture: Super Cool Tree near the Devil’s Doorway
With no strict plan and a park like this, I decided to dive into the notorious Potholes Trail. Named for the “potholes” carved into the rocks by ancient waters, this short but intense 0.3-mile trail is said to take up to 2 hours. It’s steep, packed with stairs, and offers a cool feature—a dramatic split in the rock face. I enjoyed the challenge and met a few adventurers braving the climb up the trail as I made my descent.
Pictures: Potholes Trailhead | The Steep Steps down Potholes Trail
Pictures: Looking Up—The stairs I tackled on the way down | Near the Split in the Rock
The Potholes Trail eventually dead-ends at the Grotto Trail. This one’s a welcome contrast—a wide, easy-going path that winds through the woods at the base of the bluffs. The Grotto Trail is not just easy on the legs but also features hidden gems called Grottos. These are natural cold air sinks where chilly air from beneath the rocky bluff creates refreshing hideouts on sweltering summer days. Sadly, I think I missed these cool spots!
Pictures: Junction of Potholes Trail and Grotto Trail | Looking up Potholes Trail from Grotto Trail
As I strolled leisurely down the Grotto Trail, I had plenty of time to ponder and reflect. One perk of the Potholes Trail is that it’s a bit of a quiet escape with hardly any kids around. The same vibe continues on the Grotto Trail—head away from the beach and easy-access trails, and you’ll find fewer families and more peace. As I made my way, I couldn’t help but mentally prepare for the climb back up to the East Bluff. More stairs are definitely in my future!
Pictures: Along the Grotto Trail—A lush paradise with a totally different feel from the Bluff Trails!
As I rounded the bend on the Grotto Trail, I connected with the CCC Trail and looked up—yep, I was definitely in for a steep climb! The good news? It wasn’t as tough as I’d braced myself for. I got my wish to hike through the boulder field, and while it wasn’t as challenging as Abol Trail in Maine, the stairs carved into the boulders made the ascent a bit easier. The views up here are stunning, and you quickly realize how far you’ve climbed away from the lake below. It’s a great reminder of the expansive beauty of the park.
Pictures: Gazing up at the Boulder Field I’m about to tackle | Where the Grotto Trail and CCC Trail Cross Paths
Pictures: The CCC Trail through the Boulder Field
At the top, I encountered a lively group of climbers, many of whom looked like a school group on an adventure. They were scaling a small cliff with impressive enthusiasm. Major kudos to them—I’m not sure I’d have the guts for that kind of climb! After soaking in the scene and catching my breath, I decided to make my way back along the East Bluff Trail. Instead of retracing my steps, I opted for the East Bluff Woods Trail, which is about a 1.3-mile hike back to where I started this morning. This route is a bit longer but much easier on the ascent to Balanced Rock compared to the East Bluff Trail.
Pictures: Climbers’ Ropes | A View That Shows Just How Far You’ve Hiked from the Lake
Pictures: Trekking Along the East Bluff Woods Trail | Beware: Steep Hill Sign for Mountain Bikers
All in all, it was a fantastic day of hiking and exploring. I made the short trek back to my campsite—a mere 0.6 miles—eager for some well-deserved eats – another camp staple, grilled cheese – and cold drinks. A roaring campfire capped off the perfect end to an adventurous day. There’s nothing like relaxing by the fire after a day of epic trails and breathtaking views!
With 29 miles of scenic trails, two sandy beaches, and endless outdoor adventures, Devil’s Lake State Park is your playground of natural beauty. Pack a picnic, grab a paddle, or even tackle some towering cliffs—this park has it all. Ready to dive in? Let’s explore the top activities that make this place a must-visit!
So, Devil’s Lake—what a trip! If you’re into stunning views, a mix of laid-back and challenging trails, and some serious people-watching (I’m looking at you, campers), then this park should be on your list. But if I’m honest, it probably won’t top my all-time favorites. Sure, it’s got everything you need for a great adventure, but the paved trails and crowded hotspots made it feel a bit more like a city escape than a true nature getaway. Still, the lake’s beauty and those epic bluffs are worth the hike—just maybe on a quieter day. Whether you’re chasing sunsets, scrambling up rocks, kayaking, or sun-bathing on the beach, Devil’s Lake has its own unique charm. Just don’t forget to pack your sense of humor and a healthy dose of patience—trust me, you’ll need both!
Dates of Visit: 7 & 8 July, 2024
During a visit to Starved Rock State Park in Illinois, I struck up a conversation with a lively group of women on a girls’ trip from Wisconsin. They were seasoned adventurers, always seeking new outdoor escapades. Naturally, I offered to snap their picture, and in return, they shared a treasure trove of must-visit spots. One gem that caught my ear was Parfrey’s Glen State Natural Area. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that this secluded natural wonder is actually nestled within Wisconsin’s Devil’s Lake State Park, which happens to be my next destination—hailed as the best state park in Wisconsin by the Discoverer Blog.
Pictures: Entrance Sign off of County Road DL | Parking Lot
Wisconsin charges for entry to its state parks, and Devil’s Lake is one of the pricier ones at $16 per day for non-residents. However, you can snag an annual pass for $38, which is a better deal if you’re planning a longer stay. The only catch? The pass has to be attached to the inside of your windshield. Even though I was in a rental, I opted for the annual pass since I was staying for three days—$48 for daily fees versus $38 for the pass? No brainer!
Now, as you’re planning your visit, I wouldn’t recommend paying $16 just to see Parfrey’s Glen. It’s a nice spot, but not worth the fee on its own. If you’re visiting other parks in Wisconsin, it’s a great addition to your trip.
Parfreys Glen, named after Robert Parfrey, a 19th-century settler who was among the first to appreciate its beauty, has long been a cherished destination for nature enthusiasts. The glen’s formation dates back to the last Ice Age, over 12,000 years ago, when glacial meltwater carved through the sandstone and quartzite, creating the narrow, steep-sided gorge that we see today. This geological marvel not only showcases stunning rock formations but also serves as a living testament to the Earth’s dynamic history. As Wisconsin’s first designated State Natural Area, this enchanting gorge offers a fascinating blend of history, adventure, and breathtaking scenery.
Pictures: Rock Rededicating the Park as a Natural Area
I spent the night in Middleton, Wisconsin (just outside Madison) and woke up early, ready for an adventure. Since I was ahead of schedule, I decided to check out Parfrey’s Glen for a morning hike. The trail is a manageable 1.7 miles round trip, perfect for a peaceful start to the day. The cool morning air and last night’s rain kept the bugs at bay, though they were starting to stir.
Parfrey’s Glen offers a relatively easy yet incredibly rewarding trail that takes you deep into a stunning gorge. The hike begins with a gentle stroll through lush woodlands, then gradually becomes more rugged as you get closer to the glen. Along the way, you’ll cross a creek multiple times and be surrounded by towering cliffs and vibrant, moss-covered boulders. The trail ends at a beautiful waterfall, where the soothing sound of cascading water invites you to pause, reflect, and enjoy the tranquil scenery.
My morning hike at Parfrey’s Glen was the perfect start to an adventurous day in Wisconsin!
Pictures: An Old Pitcher Pump | Trailhead Marker | Initial Part of the Trail
Pictures: Views along the hike
Pictures: The trail and one of the areas you cross the creek
Pictures: The beautiful walls of the gorge
Pictures: Close up view of the gorge walls
Pictures: As I finished my hike, I saw a deer | The Ice Age Trail goes into Devil’s Lake State Park
Date of Visit: 7 July 2024
I’m back at it after a winter hiatus from Highpointing and exploring the Discoverer’s List of The Best State Park in Each State! This month’s adventure revolves around “summiting” Charles Mound, the highest natural point in Illinois. This peak sits on private land, and the gracious owners open it to the public the first weekend of June, July, August, and September, from sunrise to sunset. More on that in my next post!
With these key dates in mind, I embarked on my journey. I flew from sunny San Diego, California, to Minneapolis, Minnesota, where I rented an SUV for my month-long journey through the upper Midwest. I’ll be mixing it up between camping in my trusty SUV and staying at a few hotels along the way. I opted to spend the night in Rochester, Minnesota, and picked up some sundries on the way to my hotel. I don’t normally do this, but I ordered everything ahead of time and drove up to the store to have it placed in the back of my SUV. Talk about a game changer and it saved me a ton of time! The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, I headed for my first stop, Backbone State Park in Dundee, Iowa.
We’ve all heard the story: Greenland and Iceland were named with a bit of strategy (and perhaps a touch of mischief). Greenland isn’t exactly a lush paradise, and Iceland isn’t just a block of ice. As I cruised through the charming back roads of Minnesota, I stumbled upon the towns of Harmony and Prosper. Did early settlers name these towns hoping to manifest a little extra luck and good vibes? I wouldn’t be surprised!
Then, as I meandered through Decorah, Iowa, I spotted signs for the Laura Ingalls Wilder Park and Museum. Shockingly, I learned she was a real person, not just a character from the 70’s and 80’s TV Show “Little House on the Prairie.” Who knew? Apparently, there are several museums, and this one marks her home from 1876-1877. Laura was a writer who penned a beloved series of children’s books about her childhood, aptly titled “Little House on the Prairie.”
And on a completely unrelated note: isn’t it funny how even the tiniest towns in America boast either a Mexican or Chinese restaurant? Next time you’re on a road trip, see if you can spot one!
I’ve noticed a trend with the Discoverer’s List—many places owe their existence to the hardworking Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) or were among the first state parks in their area and Backbone State Park fits both categories. The CCC built many of the park’s amenities, including roads, trails, and the historic Stone Lodge, which remains a popular spot for gatherings and events. Their craftsmanship and dedication are evident in the enduring structures that blend seamlessly with the natural environment.
According to the park’s website, “Dedicated in 1920 as Iowa’s first state park, Backbone State Park is one of the most geographically unique locations in Iowa.” That’s no exaggeration! While Iowa may bring to mind sprawling farms and flat plains, Backbone State Park breaks the mold with its more rugged terrain. The Maquoketa River’s carved, steep ridge—dubbed The Devil’s Backbone—rises as the highest point in northeast Iowa, living up to its epic name with an 80-foot ascent above the river. This geological wonder not only defines the park but also offers visitors a glimpse into the area’s rich natural history.
Pictures: South Gate Entrance | About the Civilian Conservation Corp and Iowa Parks
I kicked off my adventure at Backbone State Park by entering through the south entrance and snagging a parking spot near the beach and boathouse. Since it was early and the recent rains had turned the lake a bit muddy, I had the whole place to myself—no one on the beach, no boats on the lake. The boathouse is pretty cool with its rustic charm and vintage vibes. It looks like you can rent paddle boats and canoes there, but it was all closed up on my visit. So after a look around, off I went to explore the rest of the park.
Pictures: From the Boathouse – The Beach and the Rental Boats
I started my trek on the East Lake Trail, a 2.4-mile path skirting the lake. It wasn’t the easiest to find at first—I had to do a bit of wandering before finally spotting a trail marker. The initial stretch was a little overgrown, not my idea of a fun hike, but certainly added to the adventure. But as I pressed on, the path opened up, becoming clearer and more inviting. The trail was surprisingly quiet, with only a few people around. I did spot three guys fishing, totally soaking in the peace and quiet. Navigating around a few fallen trees was no big deal, and the rock formations were giving me major upstate New York vibes, which was a cool surprise. Despite the muddy waters and high lake levels from recent rains, the trail offered nice views and a serene experience. About halfway through, I stumbled upon the Bluebird Trail, an easy and inviting 2.2-mile detour, perfect for those looking for a gentler hike.
Pictures: The East Lake Trail Marker? | Beginning of the East Lake Trail | One of the many fallen trees
Pictures: Some of the many Rock Formations
As I continued along the East Lake Trail, I ended up veering off track a bit. I quickly realized that the trails at Backbone State Park aren’t exactly the most well-marked. After crossing a bridge, I unintentionally went straight instead of taking the right path. After some backtracking, I found my way back on track, thanks to seeing some hikers in the distance coming from the direction I needed to go in. There were a few pesky flies buzzing around, but I chuckled seeing them donning full-head nets—I initially thought it was a bit over the top. Little did I know, they would have the last laugh as you’ll find out later.
Pictures: Another Rock Formation | The North End of the Lake | Part of the East Lake Trail
Ah, city folk—those urban adventurers who brave the great outdoors! The Backbone Trail seems to attract them like moths to a flame. It’s the park’s namesake, it’s flat as a pancake, and at just 0.8 miles, it’s perfect for a quick jaunt. As I came up to the parking lot, I braced myself for the urban invasion. Take a deep breath and prepare for the experience!
I’m pleased to report that, by and large, everyone was civilized and respectful on the trail. Having hiked all over the country and read up on this trail, I was expecting a bit more of an adrenaline rush. It’s wide enough, with a few spots near the edge that might make you gulp (especially for someone afraid of heights), but nothing too heart-stopping.
Pictures: The Backbone Trailhead | The Backbone Trail
Pictures: Views of the Maquoketa River as it winds around both sides of the Devil’s Backbone
Pictures: Along the Backbone Trail
From the Backbone Trail, I ventured towards the Six Pines Trail, a short 0.6-mile path that surprisingly led me directly to the Six Pines Campground. Getting to this trailhead was a mix of road and trail, making me wonder why the trails aren’t better connected in such a sprawling park. Later, heading from the East Entrance up to Richmond Springs, I encountered a similar situation—only road access was available.
Anyway, at the Six Pines Trailhead, a car pulled up, and out stepped a woman with a distinct foreign accent, casually puffing on a cigarette. She started up the trail ahead of me but then suddenly veered off into the woods between two marked paths. Not sure where she was headed, but hey, to each their own. This trail had some awesome elevation changes and plenty of valleys to explore.
Pictures: Along the Six Pines Trail
Backbone State Park has camping options for everyone. The South Lake Campground offers modern amenities like electric hookups and showers, all nestled among the trees for that perfect nature-immersed experience. On the flip side, the Six Pines Campground gives off a more secluded, primitive camping vibe. Since it was a summer holiday weekend, online booking required a minimum stay of two nights—Friday and Saturday. Planning for just one night, I kept my options open, knowing walk-ups were possible if space was available. After a day of exploring the park, I set my sights eastward, prepping for my next adventure at Charles Mound.
It’s worth noting that when I stumbled upon the Six Pines Campground, it was completely empty—a missed opportunity in my opinion! While I didn’t check South Lake, there might have been some availability there too. Honestly, the Iowa park system could really benefit from a savvy revenue manager for their online bookings. Just a thought!
The last trail before I ventured up to the northern part of the park was the West Lake Trail, a 3.0-mile journey that looped me back to the parking lot and boathouse. Right at the start, I crossed a bridge over a swollen, muddy creek—definitely not your average trickle. On the other side, the trail was a squelchy mess, teeming with mosquitoes. They let up once I pushed past the marshy spots, but it was still a battle of wills.
The hike itself was pleasant enough, though a tad monotonous. I was itching (literally!) to get back to the car and explore the northern reaches of the park. So, I trudged onward, and eventually, the trail wound me around from the beach and over the dam that created the lake.
Pictures: The bridge over the swollen creek and a warning sign about high water
Pictures: The View across the Lake | The Dam
I finally made it back to the parking area, and the little shop was open. The park was getting busier and there were even people on the beach and swimming. (I guess the water wasn’t as muddy as I thought in the lake). I stopped by the little shop, tempted by the advertised smoothies. Unfortunately, it was more like a sugary slushy than a real smoothie – definitely a poor choice. Next time, I’ll stick with ice cream! Also, a shop without postcards? That’s a definite red flag. Lesson learned, folks!
Pictures: The Smoothie Sign | Inside the Shop | My Mango “Smoothie”
So, just like with the trails, the roads in the park aren’t exactly seamlessly connected. I had to exit through the South Gate and loop around to the East Gate—a bit of a detour, about a 3-mile trek. The East Gate boasts an old-school sign, likely put up by the CCC back in the day. As you drive in, you’ll spot the Maquoketa River Scenic Overlook, which I hiked below earlier in the day. Unfortunately, thanks to all the lush vegetation, the view wasn’t exactly panoramic right now.
Heading north, the road winds for a little over 3 miles. Near the end, there’s a trail called the Barred Owl Trail that I considered hiking initially, but it’s just 0.4 miles and didn’t seem too thrilling. Along the way, there are a few pit stops. The first one is Balanced Rock, which took me a hot minute to actually find—it’s not exactly conspicuous, unlike the one I’ll tell you about at Devil’s Lake State Park in Wisconsin.
Pictures: The East Gate Sign | Maquoketa River Scenic Overlook | The Overlook View?
Next on the road trip agenda was The Cave. It’s just a short hike from the parking lot—nothing too deep or terrifying, as caves go. Near the parking area, the creek flows under the road, and whoever designed it built tunnels that create these cool whirlpools before the water disappears under the road.
Pictures: The Cave Trailhead | Trail to the Cave | Cool Whirlpool
The final stop on this tour was Richmond Springs. They say it’s a constant 48 degrees, but I wouldn’t dare jump in, even on a scorching hot day. The springs looked a bit spooky, filled with patches that seemed like algae or some kind of growth.
Pictures: Richmond Springs | The Growth in the Springs
Reflecting on my visit to Backbone State Park brought back memories of my childhood trips to Green Lakes State Park in upstate New York. Living nearby, it was a fantastic spot for picnics, camping, fishing, hitting the beach on hot summer days, or hiking the many trails. It was the perfect getaway into nature. But in retrospect, would it be a park I’d make a special trip to as a destination? Probably not. When I think about the best park in each state, I feel it should rival a National Park, and honestly, Backbone State Park didn’t quite hit that mark. Is it a fun park? Absolutely. Would I go there if I lived nearby? Hell yes.
Date of Visit: 6 July 2024
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