Tag: The Discoverer

Back At It!

I’m back at it after a winter hiatus from Highpointing and exploring the Discoverer’s List of The Best State Park in Each State! This month’s adventure revolves around “summiting” Charles Mound, the highest natural point in Illinois. This peak sits on private land, and the gracious owners open it to the public the first weekend of June, July, August, and September, from sunrise to sunset. More on that in my next post!

With these key dates in mind, I embarked on my journey. I flew from sunny San Diego, California, to Minneapolis, Minnesota, where I rented an SUV for my month-long journey through the upper Midwest. I’ll be mixing it up between camping in my trusty SUV and staying at a few hotels along the way. I opted to spend the night in Rochester, Minnesota, and picked up some sundries on the way to my hotel. I don’t normally do this, but I ordered everything ahead of time and drove up to the store to have it placed in the back of my SUV. Talk about a game changer and it saved me a ton of time! The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, I headed for my first stop, Backbone State Park in Dundee, Iowa.

Should a Name Worry You?

We’ve all heard the story: Greenland and Iceland were named with a bit of strategy (and perhaps a touch of mischief). Greenland isn’t exactly a lush paradise, and Iceland isn’t just a block of ice. As I cruised through the charming back roads of Minnesota, I stumbled upon the towns of Harmony and Prosper. Did early settlers name these towns hoping to manifest a little extra luck and good vibes? I wouldn’t be surprised!

*Picture:* Harmony, Minnesota | Population 1,043

Then, as I meandered through Decorah, Iowa, I spotted signs for the Laura Ingalls Wilder Park and Museum. Shockingly, I learned she was a real person, not just a character from the 70’s and 80’s TV Show “Little House on the Prairie.” Who knew? Apparently, there are several museums, and this one marks her home from 1876-1877. Laura was a writer who penned a beloved series of children’s books about her childhood, aptly titled “Little House on the Prairie.”

And on a completely unrelated note: isn’t it funny how even the tiniest towns in America boast either a Mexican or Chinese restaurant? Next time you’re on a road trip, see if you can spot one!

Backbone State Park and the CCC

I’ve noticed a trend with the Discoverer’s List—many places owe their existence to the hardworking Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) or were among the first state parks in their area and Backbone State Park fits both categories. The CCC built many of the park’s amenities, including roads, trails, and the historic Stone Lodge, which remains a popular spot for gatherings and events. Their craftsmanship and dedication are evident in the enduring structures that blend seamlessly with the natural environment.

According to the park’s website, “Dedicated in 1920 as Iowa’s first state park, Backbone State Park is one of the most geographically unique locations in Iowa.” That’s no exaggeration! While Iowa may bring to mind sprawling farms and flat plains, Backbone State Park breaks the mold with its more rugged terrain. The Maquoketa River’s carved, steep ridge—dubbed The Devil’s Backbone—rises as the highest point in northeast Iowa, living up to its epic name with an 80-foot ascent above the river. This geological wonder not only defines the park but also offers visitors a glimpse into the area’s rich natural history.

Pictures: South Gate Entrance | About the Civilian Conservation Corp and Iowa Parks

Exploring Backbone’s Natural Wonders

I kicked off my adventure at Backbone State Park by entering through the south entrance and snagging a parking spot near the beach and boathouse. Since it was early and the recent rains had turned the lake a bit muddy, I had the whole place to myself—no one on the beach, no boats on the lake. The boathouse is pretty cool with its rustic charm and vintage vibes. It looks like you can rent paddle boats and canoes there, but it was all closed up on my visit. So after a look around, off I went to explore the rest of the park.

Pictures: From the Boathouse – The Beach and the Rental Boats

I started my trek on the East Lake Trail, a 2.4-mile path skirting the lake. It wasn’t the easiest to find at first—I had to do a bit of wandering before finally spotting a trail marker. The initial stretch was a little overgrown, not my idea of a fun hike, but certainly added to the adventure. But as I pressed on, the path opened up, becoming clearer and more inviting. The trail was surprisingly quiet, with only a few people around. I did spot three guys fishing, totally soaking in the peace and quiet. Navigating around a few fallen trees was no big deal, and the rock formations were giving me major upstate New York vibes, which was a cool surprise. Despite the muddy waters and high lake levels from recent rains, the trail offered nice views and a serene experience. About halfway through, I stumbled upon the Bluebird Trail, an easy and inviting 2.2-mile detour, perfect for those looking for a gentler hike.

Pictures: The East Lake Trail Marker? | Beginning of the East Lake Trail | One of the many fallen trees

Pictures: Some of the many Rock Formations

As I continued along the East Lake Trail, I ended up veering off track a bit. I quickly realized that the trails at Backbone State Park aren’t exactly the most well-marked. After crossing a bridge, I unintentionally went straight instead of taking the right path. After some backtracking, I found my way back on track, thanks to seeing some hikers in the distance coming from the direction I needed to go in. There were a few pesky flies buzzing around, but I chuckled seeing them donning full-head nets—I initially thought it was a bit over the top. Little did I know, they would have the last laugh as you’ll find out later.

Pictures: Another Rock Formation | The North End of the Lake | Part of the East Lake Trail

Enter in the City Folk

Ah, city folk—those urban adventurers who brave the great outdoors! The Backbone Trail seems to attract them like moths to a flame. It’s the park’s namesake, it’s flat as a pancake, and at just 0.8 miles, it’s perfect for a quick jaunt. As I came up to the parking lot, I braced myself for the urban invasion. Take a deep breath and prepare for the experience!

I’m pleased to report that, by and large, everyone was civilized and respectful on the trail. Having hiked all over the country and read up on this trail, I was expecting a bit more of an adrenaline rush. It’s wide enough, with a few spots near the edge that might make you gulp (especially for someone afraid of heights), but nothing too heart-stopping.

Pictures: The Backbone Trailhead | The Backbone Trail

Pictures: Views of the Maquoketa River as it winds around both sides of the Devil’s Backbone

Pictures: Along the Backbone Trail

Quirky Moment

From the Backbone Trail, I ventured towards the Six Pines Trail, a short 0.6-mile path that surprisingly led me directly to the Six Pines Campground. Getting to this trailhead was a mix of road and trail, making me wonder why the trails aren’t better connected in such a sprawling park. Later, heading from the East Entrance up to Richmond Springs, I encountered a similar situation—only road access was available.

Anyway, at the Six Pines Trailhead, a car pulled up, and out stepped a woman with a distinct foreign accent, casually puffing on a cigarette. She started up the trail ahead of me but then suddenly veered off into the woods between two marked paths. Not sure where she was headed, but hey, to each their own. This trail had some awesome elevation changes and plenty of valleys to explore.

Pictures: Along the Six Pines Trail

Lost Opportunity

Backbone State Park has camping options for everyone. The South Lake Campground offers modern amenities like electric hookups and showers, all nestled among the trees for that perfect nature-immersed experience. On the flip side, the Six Pines Campground gives off a more secluded, primitive camping vibe. Since it was a summer holiday weekend, online booking required a minimum stay of two nights—Friday and Saturday. Planning for just one night, I kept my options open, knowing walk-ups were possible if space was available. After a day of exploring the park, I set my sights eastward, prepping for my next adventure at Charles Mound.

It’s worth noting that when I stumbled upon the Six Pines Campground, it was completely empty—a missed opportunity in my opinion! While I didn’t check South Lake, there might have been some availability there too. Honestly, the Iowa park system could really benefit from a savvy revenue manager for their online bookings. Just a thought!

*Picture:* The Empty Six Pines Campground (this is Saturday, day 2 of the weekend requirement)

Oh, the Mosquito Saga!

The last trail before I ventured up to the northern part of the park was the West Lake Trail, a 3.0-mile journey that looped me back to the parking lot and boathouse. Right at the start, I crossed a bridge over a swollen, muddy creek—definitely not your average trickle. On the other side, the trail was a squelchy mess, teeming with mosquitoes. They let up once I pushed past the marshy spots, but it was still a battle of wills.

The hike itself was pleasant enough, though a tad monotonous. I was itching (literally!) to get back to the car and explore the northern reaches of the park. So, I trudged onward, and eventually, the trail wound me around from the beach and over the dam that created the lake.

Pictures: The bridge over the swollen creek and a warning sign about high water

Pictures: The View across the Lake | The Dam

Should of gotten the Ice Cream!

I finally made it back to the parking area, and the little shop was open. The park was getting busier and there were even people on the beach and swimming. (I guess the water wasn’t as muddy as I thought in the lake). I stopped by the little shop, tempted by the advertised smoothies. Unfortunately, it was more like a sugary slushy than a real smoothie – definitely a poor choice. Next time, I’ll stick with ice cream! Also, a shop without postcards? That’s a definite red flag. Lesson learned, folks!

Pictures: The Smoothie Sign | Inside the Shop | My Mango “Smoothie”

No easy way

So, just like with the trails, the roads in the park aren’t exactly seamlessly connected. I had to exit through the South Gate and loop around to the East Gate—a bit of a detour, about a 3-mile trek. The East Gate boasts an old-school sign, likely put up by the CCC back in the day. As you drive in, you’ll spot the Maquoketa River Scenic Overlook, which I hiked below earlier in the day. Unfortunately, thanks to all the lush vegetation, the view wasn’t exactly panoramic right now.

Heading north, the road winds for a little over 3 miles. Near the end, there’s a trail called the Barred Owl Trail that I considered hiking initially, but it’s just 0.4 miles and didn’t seem too thrilling. Along the way, there are a few pit stops. The first one is Balanced Rock, which took me a hot minute to actually find—it’s not exactly conspicuous, unlike the one I’ll tell you about at Devil’s Lake State Park in Wisconsin.

Pictures: The East Gate Sign | Maquoketa River Scenic Overlook | The Overlook View?

A not so Scary Cave, but Scary Springs

Next on the road trip agenda was The Cave. It’s just a short hike from the parking lot—nothing too deep or terrifying, as caves go. Near the parking area, the creek flows under the road, and whoever designed it built tunnels that create these cool whirlpools before the water disappears under the road.

Pictures: The Cave Trailhead | Trail to the Cave | Cool Whirlpool

The final stop on this tour was Richmond Springs. They say it’s a constant 48 degrees, but I wouldn’t dare jump in, even on a scorching hot day. The springs looked a bit spooky, filled with patches that seemed like algae or some kind of growth.

Pictures: Richmond Springs | The Growth in the Springs

My take on Backbone State Park

Reflecting on my visit to Backbone State Park brought back memories of my childhood trips to Green Lakes State Park in upstate New York. Living nearby, it was a fantastic spot for picnics, camping, fishing, hitting the beach on hot summer days, or hiking the many trails. It was the perfect getaway into nature. But in retrospect, would it be a park I’d make a special trip to as a destination? Probably not. When I think about the best park in each state, I feel it should rival a National Park, and honestly, Backbone State Park didn’t quite hit that mark. Is it a fun park? Absolutely. Would I go there if I lived nearby? Hell yes.

Date of Visit: 6 July 2024

Assateague State Park | Maryland

By Stephen

On January 17, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | best state parks list

I was well overdue on visiting Lewes, Delaware to see longtime friends Amanda and Phil, and when the opportunity came up, I immediately headed East. I mentioned that there were two parks I wanted to visit on the Discoverer’s List of the Best State Park in Each State. Amanda immediately jumped on the opportunity to visit Assateague State Park as it had been on her list of places to visit. With our cooler full and a beautiful day in the forecast, we headed south on the scenic Coast Highway to Maryland. The drive was just over an hour and as we drove through one town after another, I was amazed at the number of miniature golf courses along the way.

I’ve shared a bit about the park, ponies, and wildlife in the next sections. So feel free to skip through and jump to my notes about my visit and about Assateague National Seashore.

About the Park

Assateague State Park, Maryland’s only oceanfront park, is located on Maryland’s eastern shore and is known for its breathtaking coastal beauty and unique wildlife, particularly its famous wild ponies. These wild horses, known as Chincoteague Ponies, freely roam the park’s beaches, marshes, and woodlands, creating a distinctive and enchanting atmosphere for visitors. The ponies are believed to be descendants of shipwreck survivors and have adapted to the island’s dynamic ecosystem. Visitors can observe these majestic creatures in their natural habitat, providing a rare and memorable wildlife encounter. Assateague State Park spans 855 acres and offers a range of recreational activities, including camping, hiking trails, bird watching, and pristine sandy beaches for swimming and relaxation. The combination of natural beauty and the presence of these iconic wild ponies makes Assateague State Park a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts and those seeking a unique connection with the untamed charm of coastal wilderness. Fees: Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day $5/person | After Labor Day to Memorial Day weekend $5/vehicle.

*Picture:* Entrance on Assateague Island

About the Ponies

There are two herds; one in Maryland and one in Virginia. There are approximately 78 in the Maryland herd and about 150 in the Virginia herd. A contraceptive darting program may be used with the Maryland horses to keep the population size to a sustainable number.

Local lore experts theorized the ponies arrived on the island via a shipwrecked vessel in the late 18th or early 19th century. Others attribute their arrival by pirates drawn to the island who ultimately abandoned the animals. A more likely theory is that farmers in colonial times used the island for grazing areas to avoid paying taxes on the land.

The National Park Service manages the herd of ponies at the northern end of Assateague Island. The separate herd in Virginia is owned by the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Department, which sponsors the annual pony penning and swim every July.

The ponies’ diet consists mainly of marsh and dune grasses. Their water comes from the freshwater ponds located on the island. They are true horses, and not actual ponies, who have adapted to the diet and life on Assateague. During the winter their coats become quite thick to protect them from the harsh winds. Their short, stocky build allows them to navigate the marshes and to store water efficiently.

Other Wildlife

Assateague Island, situated on the Atlantic flyway, is a bird-watcher’s paradise. Over 200 species of birds have been sighted here, ranging from gulls to herons, egrets to eagles, and even rare peregrine falcons and snowy owls. The most commonly seen birds include ospreys, herons, egrets, sandpipers, shorebirds, ducks, geese, and other waterfowl. There are also two types of deer on the island, whitetail and sika.

The ocean and bay that surround the island are full of life. Dolphins can often be seen playing in the waves of the ocean. Flounder, spot, sea trout, puffer, rockfish, croaker, red drum, and bluefish are residents of the area, while marlin and tuna can be found in the deeper waters offshore. Occasionally, seals, whales, sand sharks, and sea turtles wash up on the shore.

My Visit to the Park

Our first stop before we crossed over to Assateague Island, we stopped at the Assateague Island Visitor Center, which is operated by the National Park Service (NPS). The visitor center has a lot of information about the history of and wildlife on the island, as well as a book and souvenir store shop. Assateague State Park encompasses only a small portion of the island, while Assateague Island National Seashore encompasses the majority of the island. Since this is operated by the NPS, we didn’t get much information about the park but did ask where there were pony sightings. The area around the visitor center offers some spectacular views of the Sinepuxent Bay.

*Picture:* Assateague Island Visitor Center

Pictures: Outdoor Map at the Visitor Center – if you zoom in on the picture to the left, you can see how small the State Park is relative to the Island.

Let’s find some Ponies!

We headed across the Verrazano Bridge and over Sinepuxent Bay to the State Park and as soon as we got to Stephen Decatur Memorial Road, we saw our first ponies. We then continued straight and into Assateague State Park where we parked, paid our $5, and to our surprise, there was a lone horse just standing in the parking lot! The State Park has a beautiful beach, the 5 Tides Restaurant and Shop (which was closed for the season), and numerous camping sites. We headed to the beach to see if we could get a glimpse of the ponies on the beach, but there were none, just a bunch of surfers. We also walked along the road through the campgrounds (which was empty) in search of more ponies, but only found evidence of them in the form of Horse “Muffins.”

*Picture:* The lone pony in the parking lot.

Pictures: Beach Access from the Campgrounds | Horse “Muffins”

*Picture:* Campground with Bathroom and Shower Facilities

Ponies Sighting!

We decided to head out and see if we would have better luck at the Assateague Island National Seashore, so we headed back to the car and then south on Stephen Decatur Memorial Road. And to our surprise, as we left the parking lot, we saw the horse that was in the parking lot, now grazing by the roadside. Then as we turned left onto Stephen Decatur Memorial Road, we saw another pony!

Pictures: The Ponies!

Assateague Island National Seashore

As we approached the entrance to the National Seashore, there was a line of cars paying the entrance fee. I was a bit shocked at the cost of $25 per vehicle for 7 days (Although I swear it was $35). Anyway, I knew I was about to embark on a trip across the country, so I decided to renew my America the Beautiful Pass ($80 for the year), which gave us access to the park. I should note that if you arrive by foot or bicycle, there is no fee. Hint: Perhaps bring your bike, park at the state parking lot for $5, and ride your bike into the National Seashore.

We decided to hike two trails while we were there – the Life of the Marsh Trail and the Life of the Forest Trail. The Life of the Marsh Trail takes you on an elevated boardwalk winding above the wetlands and mudflats and also takes you out to Sinepuxent Bay.

*Picture:* Sinepuxent Bay from Assateague Island

Pictures: Me, Amanda, and Phil | The Wetlands

We ran into a bunch of people during our hike and asked them if they had spotted any ponies. Then we got lucky – someone told us that there were several ponies on the Life of the Forest Trail! So we set off on our mission to see more ponies. The trail was a beautiful one that took us through the woods and eventually led us to a boardwalk with a view of a marshy area. Even though we didn’t spot any ponies on the trail as we had hoped, we did manage to see a few off in the distance. Our goal was still to see the ponies on the beach, so we moved on to the Life of the Dunes Trail. This trail took us through the dunes and along the beach. I was pretty sure that with all the trees and “hiding” places, we would definitely spot some ponies here – but no luck! We were still happy to have seen a couple of the ponies and decided to head out. But before we drove too far, we spotted another pony! With our day complete, we headed back north to grab a bite to eat. I enjoyed our trip to Assateague State Park and the Assateague Island National Seashore and would highly recommend it. On my next visit, I would spend more time on the beach relaxing.

Pictures: From the Life of the Forest Trail

*Picture:* The Beach from the *Life of the Dunes Trail*

We had lunch in Selbyville, Delaware, just across the Maryland/Delaware border at Catch 54. My meal was a bit of a dichotomy – we all shared Crab Dip Loaded Tots and then I had the Roasted Beets with Pistachios, Grapefruit, Goat Cheese Mousse, and a Ginger Vinaigrette along with a refreshing Thompson Island IPA. Next up on my list to visit – Cape Henlopen State Park in Lewes, Delaware, and I also made a trip to Cape May, New Jersey.

Pictures: Catch 54 Exterior | Catch 54 Bar

Pictures: Crab Dip Loaded Tots | Roasted Beets

Date of Visit: 4 November 2023

Smugglers Notch State Park | Vermont

By Stephen

On January 14, 2024

In blog | adventure | travel | best state parks list

My Visit to Stowe | Vermont

In my previous post about Mount Mansfield, I mentioned that the weather was not ideal for camping, and hotel rooms were expensive. As a result, I decided to stay in a hostel named Round Hearth Cafe and Market in Stowe, which I booked through Airbnb. Christopher, the host, was extremely friendly and an excellent host at the cafe as well. Additionally, the stay included complimentary coffee and a discount on food at the cafe. The hostel is not luxurious and is mainly intended for skiers, as indicated by the industrial carpet in the hallways (suitable for ski boots and snow). The rooms are plain but comfortable, and the shared bathrooms are super clean and well-lit. Since it was the off-season, I felt like I had the entire place to myself.

Pictures: Entrance to the Cafe and Hostel | Outdoor Seating Area

Pictures: Stairway to Rooms | Upper Hallway

Pictures: Hostel Room | Men’s Bathroom

That night, I decided to check out the area and found the Idletyme Brewing Company which was just down the road. I hung out in the bar area and had a chat with some of the locals. We talked about what to order for dinner and what to see at Smugglers Notch State Park. But then, an ambulance went by and they told me something creepy – apparently, the locals think someone has fallen at Bingham Falls every time they hear an ambulance. On that happy note, I had a great time and the food was pretty good.

Pictures: Idletyme Brewing Co. | Doubletyme IPA 7% | Fish and Chips

Work First, then a Hike

The next morning I had to do some work for a client, so I had breakfast in the cafe downstairs and worked on my project. It took a bit of time to complete, but there was still some daylight and I decided to head to the dreaded Bingham Falls – only a 5-minute drive up Mountain Road to the Trailhead.

Pictures: The Double Diamond Breakfast Sandwich with Avocado and Home Fries | The Cafe Interior

Pictures: The Round Hearth | Round Hearth Cafe Interior

First, a little about the park

Nestled in the heart of Vermont, Smugglers Notch State Park is a nature lover’s paradise that seamlessly blends breathtaking landscapes with outdoor adventure. Spanning over 1,000 acres, the park is a haven for hikers, boasting an extensive trail network that caters to all skill levels. Towering cliffs and dense forests create a picturesque backdrop, offering a serene escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The park’s crown jewel, the famed Smugglers Notch, is a scenic mountain pass that weaves through rugged terrain, providing an exhilarating journey for those seeking a challenge. Visitors can relish in the park’s rich history, discovering tales of smugglers who once navigated these hidden paths. Whether you’re a seasoned trekker or a casual stroller, Smugglers Notch State Park invites you to explore its vast beauty and uncover the secrets held within its sprawling expanse.

Pictures: Trail Map | Trail Descriptions

There’s a reason it’s called Smugglers Notch

In 1807, President Thomas Jefferson passed an embargo act forbidding American trade with Great Britain and Canada. This was a severe hardship for northern Vermonters since Montreal was closer than other markets in the US. Many local people continued illegal trade with Canada, herding cattle and carrying other goods through the Notch. Later, fugitive slaves used the Notch as an escape route to Canada. During the Prohibition years, liquor was smuggled from Canada over the improved road built in 1922.

Top 5 Things to See

Smugglers Notch: The iconic mountain pass itself is a must-see. Marvel at the breathtaking rock formations and immerse yourself in the rich history of the area, where 19th-century smugglers once navigated through this hidden gem.
- This is not hard to miss as the road runs right through the notch.
Sterling Pond: Hike to the pristine Sterling Pond, the highest trout pond in Vermont. Surrounded by mountains, this alpine lake offers a serene setting for picnics and a chance to connect with nature.
- Compete – more later in the post.
Bingham Falls: A natural wonder awaits at Bingham Falls. Cool off in the refreshing cascades and pools, surrounded by lush greenery. It’s a perfect spot for a rejuvenating dip after a day of hiking.
- Despite the warnings – I checked this off the list.
Long Trail: Traverse a section of the famous Long Trail, which runs through the park. Whether you’re an avid hiker or a casual walker, the trail provides stunning views of the Green Mountains and an opportunity to explore the park’s diverse ecosystems.
- Although I didn’t do the entire Long Trail, I did portions near the Chin (see my Mount Mansfield post) and near Sterling Pond.
Moss Glen Falls: A short drive from the park, Moss Glen Falls is a picturesque waterfall worth visiting. Surrounded by lush foliage, it’s a photogenic spot and a tranquil setting to appreciate Vermont’s natural beauty.
- Not to be confused with the Moss Glen Falls near Hostel Tevere that I wrote about in my Mount Mansfield post. I didn’t go to this particular Moss Glen Falls.

Let’s Conquer the Falls!

With my work complete, I decided to get a late afternoon hike in and headed towards Bingham Falls. The falls are named after Hiram Bingham, an American missionary, explorer, politician, and early settler in the area. It was carved by glaciers during the last Ice Age and has been a local favorite for cooling off and unwinding for generations. The park has numerous educational signs and well-marked trails, including those at the falls.

Pictures: Some of the educational signs you’ll discover

From the parking lot off Mountain Road, the trail is just a short 0.8 miles out and back. There’s a bit of elevation change, with the biggest challenge being the descent to the base of the falls. It’s a beautiful walk through the forest, which leads to the Upper Falls area. From there, there are steps down to the base of the falls. As I explored the area, I realized why people often get hurt or even die here – the rocks are incredibly slippery and there are no fences to prevent accidents. Therefore, it’s important to take your surroundings seriously and be cautious. I can only imagine how many people have been injured while trying to take a “cool” pic for Instagram.

Pictures: The initial portion of the trail

Pictures: The Upper Falls area

*Picture:* The West Branch Little River flowing into Bingham Falls

Pictures: Upper Falls

Pictures: The steep and slick trail down to the base of the falls

Trail Therapy

As I headed back to the parking lot, I decided to take a hike along the river. While on the trail, my attention was drawn to a young woman seated by the riverbank, immersed in her thoughts with headphones on. Respecting her space, I continued cautiously. Eventually, reaching the trail’s end, I retraced my steps. This time, our eyes met, and she removed her headphones. Greetings were exchanged, and I sensed an unease. As we chatted, she confided in me about her health struggles, likely stemming from mold in her flood-affected apartment, a result of recent Vermont floods. With empathy, I shared some fatherly advice, ranging from seeking legal assistance to moving out or finding a roommate. Encouraging and positive, I ensured she felt supported before I left her. This situation echoed a moment near my sister’s home, where a stranger stopped, concerned about my well-being – not that I looked distraught – but due to a recent suicide at the nearby falls. Compassion is priceless, reminding us to be attuned to others and their experiences. I believe fate guided me on that trail, and I sincerely hope she found a solution to her challenges.

Boxed Wine, Cheese and Crackers

After an emotional finish to the day and having successfully survived the hike to Bingham Falls, I headed to the market to buy some cheese, crackers, and boxed wine for dinner. Yes, I am a fan of boxed wines and have found some really good ones. In fact, years ago, I went to an incredible restaurant in France that only served boxed wine. So, I set up a spot outside at one of the cafe’s outdoor tables and enjoyed the sunset before heading to bed as I had a big day of hiking ahead of me.

Hiking: Day 2

The next morning, I packed up and headed out for a day of hiking. I had hoped to get out early, but had to tend to some business before hiking as I knew cellphone coverage would be spotty in the mountains. With my business finished, I headed to the Smugglers Cave parking area where I would first head to Sterling Pond and then Smugglers Cave. For a Tuesday with overcast weather, the parking lot was filling up fast, but I was fortunate to get a spot. I stopped at the information booth and spoke with the volunteer about the trails and such. He was a super interesting guy who had been a ranger in the Adirondack Mountains.

*Picture:* Informational Sign at Smugglers Notch

Pictures: Boulders at the Parking Lot | Overcast Weather

A Steep Climb and Lookout for Bears

The trail up to Sterling Pond is a moderately challenging route – keep in mind you are hiking up a trail to a peak that people ski down. The Sterling Pond trailhead is across the street and the trail is 2.1 miles out and back to just Sterling Pond with an elevation gain of 1000 feet – with most of the gain at the beginning of the hike. And just like Bingham Falls, the rocks were wet and slick, lending to a slower-than-normal hike.

Pictures: Sterling Pond Trailhead

Pictures: The steep and slippery hike to Sterling Pond

Pictures: More of the steep incline | One of the “pop-up” waterfalls and streams along the trail

At the top of the mountain, you reach a portion of the Long Trail – the same Long Trail that connects the Chin to the Nose to the Forehead on Mount Mansfield. The entire Long Trail spans 272 miles from Massachusetts to the Canadian Border and was the first long-distance hiking trail in the U.S. Although this portion of the hike wasn’t too steep, it was sheer rock and super slick due to the wet weather.

Pictures: Joining the Long Trail | Warning Sign | Slick Rocks

I hiked up to Sterling Pond, which is the highest-elevation trout pond in Vermont. It was a peaceful and beautiful spot, that is until a loud family could be heard in the distance. I continued my hike around the pond. The loop trail is about 1.4 miles long and includes some narrow sections and a few inclines, but nothing too difficult to navigate. The beginning of the trail was a bit challenging because some parts had been washed out, but I managed to make my way through. At the top of the ski mountain, which was still wet and swampy from recent rains, I checked out the chair lift platform, which was pretty cool. The trail around the pond wasn’t always easy to follow, and I ended up wandering around the summit a bit until I found a clearing and the trail again.

Pictures: Washed out Trail | View of Sterling Pond

Pictures: Ski Trail Sign | Top of the Notch Lodge

Pictures: Chair Lift Platform | Where the trail continues – through the opening in the trees

Shortly after I re-entered the woods, I came across a picnic table and a couple enjoying their lunch. I think I startled them as there were few hikers in this area. From here I headed down the Elephant’s Head Trail and this is where things got a little interesting. To begin with, it was super quiet and I was the only person on the trail. Then the initial part of the trail, along Sterling Pond, is quite narrow and there are a series of small inclines and declines through narrow rock gorges. It wasn’t anything I couldn’t navigate, but challenging at a couple of points.

Pictures: Elephant’s Head Trail Marker | The “loud” family that was behind me – now off in the distance

*Picture:* Sterling Pond – from the other side

Pictures: One of the narrow gorges to maneuver through | The beauty of the forest

After you leave the area around the pond, there is another intersection and you continue on the Elephant’s Head Trail, which now takes you through the forest. From here it is an uphill climb, then back down. It was at this point that I began to see tracks in the mud. I had seen several dogs on the way up to Sterling Pond, but these were much bigger than the average dog. I suspected they were bear tracks! As a note: When I got back to the parking lot, I showed the ex-ranger and volunteer my photos of the tracks and he confirmed that they were bear tracks. I’m glad I was hiking with my bear spray! Eventually you connect back to the Long Trail.

Pictures: Back to the Long Trail | The Long Trail – heading towards Sterling Pond Trail

Once I got back to the Sterling Pond Trail, I headed back down the mountain to the parking lot. Along the way, I ran into a guy who was taking pictures of birds. He said it was a quiet day and he hadn’t seen many birds, but what I thought was cool – he was there on his lunch break from work. How cool to have this in your backyard and hike on your lunch break!

Looking for Smugglers!

After returning to the parking lot, I unloaded my backpack and poles and took a break to eat and drink. The weather was improving and the area was getting busier with more cars waiting for parking spots. Once I finished my lunch, I went back to the information booth to ask about the bear tracks and to get more information about the Smugglers Cave. I was happy to find out that the cave was located right behind the booth and there was a short loop up and around the caves. The cave was quite interesting, and I could imagine smugglers hiding out there in the past. It was a great way to end my day. I am happy that I split my visit into two days, as there is so much to explore and enjoy at Smugglers Notch State Park! I would definitely recommend a visit to this beautiful park.

Pictures: To Smugglers Cave | The History of Smugglers Notch

Pictures: Smugglers Cave

Time for a Beer

With the day relatively young, and Burlington, Vermont close by, I headed east to check out their craft brewing scene and to see a town I have been wanting to visit for some time. My first stop – Queen City Brewery – where I enjoyed a flight of beer and met a nice couple from the West Coast of Florida. We chatted about Florida Breweries and I mentioned my love for IPAs. They suggested I try Zero Gravity Brewery across the street as are known for their IPAs.

Pictures: Queen City Brewery

Pictures: Beers of the Day | My Flight of Beer

After finishing my flight, I headed across to the street to Zero Gravity Brewery where I picked up a few different IPAs in cans. With beers in hand, snacks in my cooler, and the golden hour approaching, I headed to nearby Oakledge Park to see the sunset on Lake Champlain. I sat on the rocks and watched an incredible sunset. It was a great way to end an incredible day!