Meeting a Michigander usually comes with an impromptu geography lesson. They hold their left hand with the palm facing them to represent Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (U.P.), where the Yoopers reside. Their right hand held upright with the palm facing outward, maps out the Lower Peninsula—the area below the Mackinac Bridge, often called “The Mitten” and home to the Trolls. This hand map is a classic and quirky way for Michiganders to show off their state’s geography, which can be charmingly unique or, depending on your perspective, a bit annoying. Now let’s explore the U.P.
Photos: A Michigander Map | A Traditional Map
The Great Lakes’ Greatest Hits
If the Great Lakes had a Greatest Hits album, it would definitely be titled Lighthouses & Waterfalls – these iconic features are everywhere you turn. After leaving L’Anse, I cruised east on US-41 for a scenic hour and fifteen minutes, landing in Marquette, Michigan—the largest city in the U.P. With a population of just under 20,000, Marquette blends small-town charm with big-city amenities. I love to make pit stops during my road trips, so naturally, Marquette called for a quick exploration.
This lakeside town boasts stunning Lake Superior views, and it’s home to Northern Michigan University, which adds a youthful vibe to the area. If you’ve got the time, a hike up Sugarloaf Mountain offers unbeatable vistas, with a panoramic view that stretches for miles—perfect for taking in the sheer scale of Lake Superior, which, by the way, holds enough water to cover North and South America in a foot of water. Or you can take a leisurely stroll along the harbor for some serious photo ops.
One stop you shouldn’t miss is the decommissioned Ore Dock, a towering relic of Marquette’s industrial past. Once a bustling hub for shipping iron ore, this massive structure now stands as a dramatic piece of history along the waterfront. Its rusted, steel frame and vast length make for an impressive sight, and the dock offers a unique perspective on the city’s maritime heritage. I also wandered over to the Marquette Harbor Light Station, only to discover you need to sign up for tours to actually explore the grounds—something to keep in mind if you plan a visit! It was a brief stop, but I’m glad I checked it out.
Check ☑️, saw Marquette.
Photos: The Lake Superior Shoreline | Marquette Harbor Light Station
Photo: The Decommissioned Ore Dock
Next up on my journey, Wagner Falls Scenic Site in Munising, Michigan—a spot that the Wisconsin ladies I met at Starved Rock State Park raved about. If you caught my earlier posts, you’ll remember these ladies also tipped me off about Parfrey’s Glen, which I checked out earlier this month. A quick 50-minute drive and I found myself at the falls.
Photos: The Trailhead | A Glimpse into the Park’s History
Wagner Falls is located just 1.5 miles south of Munising, right off Michigan 94. Parking is available on both sides of the road, and I managed to snag one of the last spots. This little gem is a Michigan State Scenic Site, and the 0.25-mile trail is an easy stroll that takes you through a dense forest of old-growth pine and hemlock trees. The falls themselves are a 20-foot cascade that tumbles over limestone and sandstone—geological formations that are hundreds of millions of years old. Perfect for those Insta-worthy pics. Be prepared, though—the place draws a crowd, including city folk who seem more glued to their phones than the stunning falls in front of them. But don’t let that stop you—Wagner Falls is definitely worth a stop if you’re passing through, though maybe not worth going out of your way for.
Photos: Wagner Creek | Wagner Falls and Scenic Observation Decks
Photo: Wagner Falls
Who Knew?!
I hit the road again, heading west toward Tahquamenon Falls State Park, a scenic hour and a half drive away. The park covers nearly 50,000 acres, making it Michigan’s second-largest state park. My spot for the night was Rivermouth Campground—about 17 miles from the Lower Falls and just 5 miles south of Paradise, Michigan, off Michigan 123. Weekends in the U.P. can get pretty busy, so I had to split my visit between two different campgrounds. But hey, I’m mobile, so no big deal!
Photos: Rivermouth Campground Entrance on Michigan 123 | My Campsite for the Night
With limited hiking options at Rivermouth, I decided to venture out to Whitefish Point. Even though I arrived just after the museum and lighthouse had closed, I was thrilled to still have the chance to explore the grounds and beach. Whitefish Point is home to the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum and the historic Whitefish Point Lighthouse—both perfect for a dose of maritime history. The museum’s exhibits on the infamous Edmund Fitzgerald are as fascinating as they are chilling, featuring haunting artifacts from the shipwreck, including the ship’s bell, which was recovered in 1995. Climbing the lighthouse offers breathtaking views of Lake Superior, and the beach is a treasure trove of driftwood and shipwreck debris. Did you know this area is considered the Graveyard of the Great Lakes? With over 240 shipwrecks in the Whitefish Point area alone since 1816, it’s a must-see for anyone fascinated by Great Lakes lore or simply looking for a memorable stop! Who knew I’d stumble upon such a cool place?
Photos: The Whitefish Point Light Station | An Iron Winch on the Museum grounds
Photos: Rudder from the M.M. Drake | History of the Graveyard of Lake Superior
Photos: Driftwood on the Beach | The Sandy Beach at Whitefish Point
Radio Flashback to 1976!
The Edmund Fitzgerald, a massive freighter that met its tragic end in a fierce 1975 storm, remains one of the most haunting maritime mysteries. Gordon Lightfoot’s classic “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald” immortalizes the ship’s story with evocative lyrics and a soulful melody, paying tribute to the 29 crew members who lost their lives that night. Standing on that beach, gazing out at the vast expanse of Lake Superior, it felt like being at the ocean—and realizing this was the area where the Edmund Fitzgerald sank was truly awe-inspiring.
Photos: Gordon Lightfoot’s Album | The Edmund FitzgeraldPhoto: Edmund Fitzgerald Memorial
Why Not?
In the end, being spontaneous is what makes any road trip truly memorable. It’s those detours, the unplanned stops, and the little side adventures that often turn out to be the highlights of the journey. You never know what hidden gems you’ll stumble upon, like a lighthouse you didn’t plan to visit or a waterfall tucked away just off the road. And let’s be honest—you might not find yourself back in these parts anytime soon, so why not seize the moment and explore? It’s all part of the adventure, and sometimes, the best stories come from the places you didn’t even know you’d find. So next time, just go for it—you might just discover something amazing.
At 1,979 feet above sea level, Mount Arvon is the highest point in the state of Michigan, ranking #38 among U.S. state high points. Tucked deep in the Upper Peninsula, this quiet summit sits miles from pavement and cell service. This marked my 31st state high point, and while it doesn’t offer sweeping alpine views, it delivers something better — solitude, dirt roads, and that unmistakable feeling of earning it.
At 1,951 feet above sea level, Timms Hill is the highest natural point in the state of Wisconsin, ranking #39 among U.S. state high points. This marked summit #30 on my high-point journey. While it doesn’t compete with the dramatic peaks of the Rockies or Appalachians, it absolutely holds its own in charm and quiet beauty.
Named after Timothy Gahan, a logger who camped nearby in the late 1800s, Timms Hill wasn’t officially recognized as Wisconsin’s highest point until a resurvey in the 1960s. Before that, many believed Rib Mountain, just west of Wausau, held the title. History has a funny way of correcting itself.
After wrapping up my adventure at Pipestone National Monument (check out my last post, Road Trippin’ From Iowa to North Dakota), I headed north on Interstate 29 to my 47th state—North Dakota. With Montana, Wyoming, and Alaska still on my bucket list, I was ready to explore Fort Ransom State Park and see what North Dakota had in store. Before diving into the park, I made a quick stop at the actual Fort Ransom site, located just 3 miles south of the park entrance, to kick off my North Dakota adventure with a bit of history.
Photos: The Historic Fort Ransom Site | Entrance to Fort Ransom State Park
Dances with Wolves
As I rolled into Fort Ransom State Park, it felt like I had driven straight into a scene from Dances with Wolves. I half expected Lieutenant John Dunbar (Kevin Costner) to come galloping up and ask what I was doing there. The rugged terrain, lush greenery, and sweeping views felt straight out of a classic Western—a perfect setting for some epic outdoor adventures.
Upon arrival, I made a beeline for the visitor center. Even though I had a camping reservation, North Dakota has this quirky little rule where you still have to pay an entrance fee. They don’t roll it into the camping fee, which I found a bit odd. The woman at the visitor center was friendly but sad to say didn’t have much to add about the park’s highlights. However, she did tip me off about the $7 firewood bundles sold by the camp host—a tale for later in this post. With map in hand, I headed to my campsite, lucky number 23, and got settled in.
Photos: Visitor Center | My Campsite – Lucky #23
Photos: Trail Map | Campground Maps and Park Information
Hills, and yes, Yurts!
As I set up my campsite, I couldn’t help but notice the area’s unique blend of rolling hills, dense trees, and sprawling farmland. The mosquitoes were out, but they were nowhere near as bad as the swarms I encountered in Wisconsin and Iowa. With a bit of daylight left, I decided to explore a bit.
I set off on a roughly 2-mile loop, starting from the back of the campground. My journey began on the South Gate Trail, where I crossed the North Country Trail before following a service road down to the Pederson Hills Trailhead. This trail starts with an incline through oak woodlands, up to a ridgeline, and across mixed-grass prairie, offering stunning views of the countryside. From there, I followed the Spur Trail—a winding connector between the Pederson Hills and Ridgeline Nature Trails.
Photos: Pederson Hills Trail
Photo: Panoramic View from the ridge on Penderson Hills Trail
Photos: Some of the many trailmarkers including where the Spur Trail meets the Ridgeline Nature Trail
A short trek down the Ridgeline Nature Trail led me to Yurt Loop, where the park’s quirky yurts immediately caught my eye. These unique accommodations, along with a refurbished stagecoach, add a charming Old West touch to your stay. As evening settled in, I marveled at how long the daylight lingered and how cool the temperature had dropped. Despite the crisp night air, my car stayed surprisingly warm—if only there had been a breeze to stir things up a bit.
Photos: One of the Yurts | The Percheron Wagon for a one-of-a-kind stay!
No Wood for You!
Camping at Fort Ransom State Park was the perfect way to soak in the park’s tranquil beauty. My campsite, nestled in a shaded corner of the campground, offered just the right balance of seclusion and proximity to the bathrooms and shower house. The only hiccup? A determined bird dive-bombed my head as I walked across the field, despite there being no trees nearby—definitely an unexpected challenge! On the bright side, I stumbled upon a cute painted rock on a bench near the building. As night fell, I enjoyed stargazing under a clear sky, free from city lights and treated to a breathtaking display of stars.
If you’re planning a visit to Fort Ransom, I highly recommend camping. Whether you’re staying in a tent, a yurt, or even the quirky refurbished stagecoach, it’s the perfect way to experience the park’s unique charm. Just a heads-up: if you’re hoping to grab a $7 bundle of firewood from the camp host, be prepared for a bit of luck. Unfortunately, the day I arrived was his day off, so I had to make a quick trip into town to stock up.
Photos: Bathrooms and Shower House | The Painted Rock I Found
Is “Sleeping In” a Camping Tradition?
The next morning, I was up and at it early. After a quick shower and some organizational maneuvers for my upcoming trip to Chicago, I hit the trails. It’s worth noting that I was pretty shocked at how late campers sleep in. By 9:15 AM, I had done so much and I was ready to go, but most of the camp was still snoozing away. Don’t get me wrong—I’m all for a good night’s sleep, but the day is slipping by folks!
One thing that really impressed me was how well-labeled the trails are at Fort Ransom. My hike started with a visit to the picnic pavilions, where I discovered a volleyball court—a fun spot for groups looking to mix a bit of sports with their nature retreat. After a quick pit stop at the outhouse, I set off on the Ridge Line Trail. The breeze had picked up, which was a blessing for keeping both the bugs and the heat at bay. The trail itself was peaceful, with the melodic chirping of birds providing the perfect soundtrack to my hike.
Photos: One of the Picnic Pavilions | A Pit Toilet, aka Outhouse
Watch out for Road Apples!
From Yurt Loop, I climbed back up the Ridgeline Nature Trail, which offered a good cardio workout with its elevation changes. As I hiked, I encountered some intriguing trail markers, including cryptic letters that I still need to decode. At the top, the trail forked, and I chose to go left, continuing on the Ridgeline Nature Trail. This section was marked by horse tracks and the occasional road apple (aka horse manure), indicating the trail’s popularity with equestrians.
Photos: On the way to Yurt Loop | Ridgeline Nature Trailhead
Fort Ransom State Park boasts over 20 miles of non-motorized trails, including loops, connectors, and segments suitable for hiking, horseback riding, biking, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing. As one of North Dakota’s designated horse parks, it’s equipped with 68 corrals, catering to both riders and horses.
The Ridgeline Nature Trail offered a mix of serene flat stretches and some elevation changes, with occasional deer tracks adding to the sense of wilderness. I briefly explored the Nelson 80 Trail, but found it rather flat and unremarkable, so I quickly returned to the Ridgeline. I then connected with the Firebreak Trail, which led me to a junction with several other trails, including the Little Twig Trail. The entire stretch from the start of Ridgeline Nature Trail to the Little Twig Trail junction was only about 8/10ths of a mile. A good warm-up for the day.
Photos: Deer Trakcs | The endless Nelson 80 Trail
Photo: View from the Ridgeline Nature Trail
More Evidence of the Recent Heavy Rains
The Little Twig Trail, a short 6/10-mile path, provided a relaxing stroll with the soothing sound of a bubbling brook enhancing the peaceful vibe. However, the recent heavy rains had caused some sections of the trail to flood, and the brook was overflowing. A bridge up ahead looked like it had definitely seen better days—possibly the one the visitor center staff had mentioned.
Despite the wet conditions, I pressed on and found myself at the Little Twig trailhead, located on the backside of the Yurt Loop. This marked a full loop back to where I had started earlier in the day, but I wasn’t done yet.
Photos: Brook along the Little Twig Trail | The Brook Overrunneth
Photos: More of the wet Little Twig Trail
Insta-worthy Views
After leaving the Little Twig trailhead, I made my way toward the North Fork Trail. With the parallel road blocked off to car traffic, I opted to hike up the road to the ridge instead. The choice was a breeze—literally—since the road was less buggy and offered a refreshing wind.
Photos: Road and Trail Intersection—Redetzke Ridge Trail (where I’ll loop back) branches off to the right | The Road Leading Up to Valley and Prairie Vista
Photos: At the Vista—A Glimpse of the Area’s History and About the Prairie
At the top, I reached the Valley and Prairie Vista, where the panoramic views and cooling breeze made the climb totally worth it. This spot is a must-visit in the park, offering a serene overlook perfect for soaking in the scenery, grabbing a snack, and snapping a few pics for the ‘Gram.
Photo: The Incredible View from the Vista
From there, I continued on the Valley View Trail, a 0.8-mile multi-use path that begins at the Scenic Overlook parking lot and winds its way down to the Sunne Farm. The trail offers stunning views of the Sheyenne River Valley as it curves along native prairie slopes, dotted with grasses and colorful wildflowers. After crossing the intersection with Redetzke Ridge Trail, I kept heading toward the Sunne Farm.
Photos: The Valley View Trail—A Long, Flat Stretch, Perfect for Horseback Riding
Photo: Heading down into the Valley towards Sunne Farm
A Step Back in Time: Visiting the Sunne Farm
The Valley View Trail led me to a farm that felt like a step back in time. One of the highlights was meeting Troy the blacksmith, whose family has been practicing the trade since 1880. The farm offered a unique glimpse into the park’s agricultural roots, providing a peaceful setting to reflect on the area’s rich history. The staff was bustling, preparing for Sodbuster Days—a local annual festival that celebrates the region’s agricultural heritage. They were surprised to hear I wasn’t sticking around for the event, which is known for its tractor parades, old-fashioned games, farm-fresh produce, homemade treats, and local crafts. If you’re in the area during this time, it’s definitely worth checking out.
Photos: Highlights from Sunne Farm
Photo: Troy’s Blacksmith Shop
Photos: More Highlights | Getting ready for Sodbusters Day
With the farm visit behind me, I made my way back toward the Redetzke Ridge Trail. Although the road offered an easier route, I chose the trail for its scenic appeal—and it didn’t disappoint. The Redetzke Ridge Trail didn’t disappoint, offering beautiful views and a more immersive experience in the park’s natural beauty. By noon, I found myself back at the intersection of the road and Redetzke Ridge, feeling accomplished and ready for a well-deserved break. I headed back to camp, where I showered, wrote a few postcards, and enjoyed some quiet time.
Photo: Heading Back Up the Valley View Trail | Where Valley View and Redetzke Ridge Trails Meet
Photos: A Few of the Wildflowers You’ll Encounter on Your Hikes
Fort Ransom: Not Quite Yosemite, But Worth a Visit!
Fort Ransom State Park may not be a bucket-list destination like Yosemite, but it’s definitely worth a visit if you find yourself in North Dakota. The park’s blend of history, scenic trails, and peaceful vibes offers a refreshing escape into nature. Whether you’re hiking, horseback riding, or just soaking in the views, Fort Ransom provides plenty of reasons to slow down and enjoy the simpler things. So if you’re passing through, don’t miss out on this little slice of prairie paradise—you might just discover a new favorite spot!
Photo: A Slice of Prairie Paradise
Oh, Geez…
Next up, I made a stop at the Fargo Visitor Center to check out the infamous wood chipper from the movie Fargo—because, when in North Dakota, how could you not? But that wasn’t the only surprise. I spotted a Facebook post from my old friend, Tim from Orlando, who just so happened to be hosting a garage sale nearby. I couldn’t resist swinging by to surprise him. It was a fun little reunion, and if I wasn’t on a tight schedule, I would’ve stuck around longer. Nonetheless, it was the perfect way to wrap up my North Dakota adventure before heading to Minneapolis to stash my camping gear. Chicago’s next on the agenda, and then back to Minneapolis for round two! Catch You on the Road!
Photos: The Famous Wood Chipper from Fargo | Not Looking Too Scary Using to It, LOL
Photos: Mini Reunion with Tim | My Minneapolis Storage Unit
After a grueling climb to the summit of Hawkeye Point, Iowa’s highest natural peak, I was ready to hit the road for South Dakota. I was uber excited because this trip would tick off South Dakota from my list, bringing my total to 46 states visited—eight of which I’ve called home. (Truthfully, I might have hit 48 states—I think I might have been to Wyoming and Montana at some point, but I can’t quite remember, so I won’t count them.)
Mosquito Swarms and Flood-Free Comfort
Let’s dive into my overnight adventure. I decided to camp and booked a site through Hipcamp at The Retreat at Pointers Ridge—a charming spot that offers one campsite amidst its artist retreat. It’s a haven for creativity, where you can do everything from painting to poetry readings, and even dog scent trials. Little did I know, I was in for quite the experience. The host, Deb, was a gem—so accommodating and attentive to my needs. She gave me flawless directions to the campsite and made sure I knew I could just set up and camp.
When I arrived, I checked out the riverbank where my site was set up. As you might remember from my previous posts, I planned to sleep in the back of my rental SUV rather than pitching a tent. While getting settled, Deb popped by to show me around. First thing I noticed: mosquitoes were out in full force—no way was I lighting a fire or hanging out outside, despite the layers of bug spray I slathered on. The second thing: the area had seen a ton of rain, leading to some serious flooding. My campsite was right on the banks of the Big Sioux River, which was pretty high.
Pictures: My Campsite | The swollen Big Sioux River
Deb walked me through the property and mentioned that I was the only guest that night. The property’s centerpiece is a large communal building with a bathroom, shower, electricity, Wi-Fi, and a spacious kitchen and living area. There’s also a small screened-in cottage I dubbed The Bar, complete with lounge chairs and a small bar—perfect for hanging out if the mosquitoes weren’t so relentless.
Pictures: The Main Building and Kitchen
Pictures: Men’s Bathroom and Shower
With more rain on the way and the bug situation being what it was, Deb suggested parking my SUV by The Bar and that I could sleep in my SUV, The Bar, or the main building. I was a bit concerned about potential flooding, but Deb assured me that even during the worst rains, this area stayed dry.
Pictures: “The Bar” and my rental SUV | Some of the cabins on the property
I spent a bit of time in The Bar, but with one door that didn’t quite close and a buggy, humid atmosphere, I decided to crash in the main building. The air-conditioned comfort and cozy couch made for a much better stay—until I woke up in the middle of the night!
Rain, Rain and more Rain!
Here’s where the fun really started. I woke up to a torrential downpour and decided to play it safe by packing up all my gear and stashing it by the door. With my car just 20 feet away, I figured if the river decided to crash its banks, I’d be ready for a quick getaway. I even ventured out to check if the land was turning into a water park or if the river had managed to sneak over its banks.
During a brief lull in the rain, I managed to get some stuff into the SUV. Sleep was elusive that night—flooding fears will do that to you. I was grateful for the cozy refuge of the main building. By morning, with the river still behaving itself, I showered, grabbed breakfast, and hit the road for my next adventure: Devil’s Gulch in Garretson, South Dakota. This quirky spot, highly recommended by Emily, the schoolteacher I met at Hawkeye Point, was conveniently on my route. I figured, why not? After all, you only live once, and a bit of spontaneous exploration never hurt anyone!
Barney Fife Sighting!
As I entered Garretson, South Dakota, the speed limit dropped pretty quickly and when I came over a small hill, there he was – Barney Fife! (I am sure most of you reading this will have to look up who Barney Fife was). Anyway, I was fortunate that I didn’t know where I was going, so I was driving super slow, so no ticket here. But come on Barney, why here? and why so early? Are there that many speeders in the metropolis of Garretson? Or maybe you’re still waiting for Jesse James?
Anyway, if you find yourself cruising through the quiet little town of Garretson, South Dakota, you might stumble upon a place that makes you wonder if you’ve accidentally wandered onto the set of an old Western movie. Welcome to Devil’s Gulch, where history and folklore collide in one of those “blink, and you’ll miss it” attractions that’s more charmingly quirky than downright terrifying.
The Outlaw Jesse James
So what’s the big deal about Devil’s Gulch? Well, legend has it that this narrow, rocky ravine is the very spot where notorious outlaw Jesse James made a daring escape on horseback after a failed bank robbery in Northfield, Minnesota. Now, the story goes that ol’ Jesse was being chased by an angry posse and, in a feat that would make any stuntman jealous, he spurred his horse to leap over the 20-foot-wide chasm to safety. Sure, it sounds a little far-fetched, but who are we to ruin a good story?
Today, visitors can stand at the edge of the gulch, peering down into the murky waters below, and wonder how on earth anyone – let alone a horse – could have made that jump. The truth? Well, it’s probably not quite as dramatic as the legend, but where’s the fun in that? So, if you’re in the mood for a roadside stop with a dash of tall tale and a sprinkle of “this place is just weird enough to be interesting,” Devil’s Gulch is the place for you.
I arrived just as the park was opening, and was immediately greeted by my own posse – that is by a posse of mosquitos. To avoid being eaten alive, like Clark Kent turning into Superman, I quickly suited up for my hike through the park, complete with – yes, you guessed it – copious amounts of bug spray.
Pictures: Trail Information | Trail Map| Trailhead and Donation Box to the right
The park isn’t huge, with ten site markers to discover, although I think I missed a few—probably while swatting mosquitos. The footbridge at the trailhead marks the spot where, in 1876, Jesse James supposedly coaxed his horse to jump the gulch. The open-grill metal bridge gives you a cool perspective on the impressive feat and a hint of what would happen if you didn’t make it across!
Pictures: The Spot where Jesse James jumped the Gulch | View from the River below (Marker #2)
Picture: View from the Bridge | Heading down to Marker #2
Once across the bridge, you’ll want to look for Marker #1: the Cedar Observation Point. Fun fact: Cedar trees are the only evergreen native to South Dakota. I’m pretty sure I saw this, just not the marker. Onward to Marker #2: River Observation Point. From here, you can look back up to the trailhead and get a sense of how high the jump was. You’ll also notice how the rock appears to be “stacked blocks,” one of the Gulch’s many mysteries.
Next up is Marker #3: Towering Rock. I took three pictures in the area, but honestly, I couldn’t tell you which one is Towering Rock. Oh well. Marker #4, another elusive one, is the Scenic Overlook, although I stumbled upon many scenic overlooks.
Pictures: The “Stacked Rocks” appearance of the Gulch walls | Towering Rock? (Marker #3)
Marker #5 is the Cobblestone Path—this one was pretty clear, as you can see in the pictures. As you hike along the rim overlooking the river, you’ll come upon Marker #6: the Waterfall Observation Point. This gives you a great view of the waterfall, which is fed by an underground spring at the top of the falls. Rounding the bend and crossing the next bridge, you’ll find yourself at The Devil’s Stairway/Kitchen—Marker #7. I never did spot the actual marker, but I knew I was in the right place. I decided to descend the stairway a bit. It’s pretty cool how the edges of the right wall are sharp, while the left wall is smooth—another mystery of the Gulch.
Pictures: Devil’s Stairway/Kitchen (Marker #7) | Bridger over Devil’s Stairway
After crossing the bridge, Marker #8 is the Plateau Observation Point, offering a different view of the Gulch and the famous Sioux Quartzite rock. Soon, you’ll cross the last bridge—Devil’s Falls Cross Bridge, Marker #9. Yet another site where I couldn’t find the marker. Once across, you’ll see Marker #10, the Exit—pretty hard to miss. The exit leads you to the Visitor Center, which wasn’t open during my visit, and then to the parking lot.
Pictures: Devil’s Falls Cross Bridge | The Falls from the Bridge | The Gulch from the Bridge
Pictures: Marker #10 – The Exit and a sample of the Markers | The Visitor Center
And that, my friends, is the curious charm of Devil’s Gulch—where the legends are larger than life, the scenery is pretty cool, and the mosquitos are just as relentless (at least when I was there). So, if you’re up for a quirky detour with a side of tall tales, this is your kind of spot.
From Quirky Attraction to a Sacred Site
A mere 30-minute drive from Devil’s Gulch brings you to Pipestone National Monument in Pipestone, Minnesota—thanks to another great tip from Emily, the school teacher. She mentioned a cool waterfall, but little did I know the depth of spiritual significance that awaited me. When I arrived, I found myself alongside a group of old car enthusiasts, their classic cars adding an unexpected touch of nostalgia to the experience.
Pictures: The Visitor Center | A bonus for the visit—Classic Cars
This isn’t just any park. For over 3,000 years, Indigenous people have quarried the red stone here to craft pipes, or “calumets,” used in prayer and ceremony—a tradition still vibrant today. With its profound spiritual and cultural heritage, a visit to the visitor center is a must. There, you’ll dive into the site’s rich history through engaging exhibits and live demonstrations, including artists showcasing their craft.
Picture: Trail Map
As you step onto the Circle Trail—a 3/4-mile paved path—you’ll be immersed in the sacred landscape. Although flooding closed the bridge under the waterfall during my visit, the trail’s short length still allowed for an enriching experience. The rustling prairie grasses and pinkish-red cliffs create a tangible link to the generations who have revered this land long before Minnesota was a state.
The trail leads you past the Spotted Quarry, named for the distinctive appearance of the pipestone. You’ll also encounter Lake Hiawatha, a surprising gem in the middle of the prairie, created by the CCC-ID in the 1930s. As you approach Winnewissa Falls, the smooth sumac—green in summer but brilliant red in fall—adds a splash of color to the landscape.
Pictures: Spotted Quarry | Lake Hiawatha
Pictures: The creek flowing from the falls to Lake Hiawatha | My first glimpse of Winnewissa Falls
Around the falls, you’ll find sites like Old Stone Face and Glacial Ripples, along with the Nicollet Inscription, left by the French scientist Joseph Nicollet in 1838. Leaping Rock, where warriors demonstrated their bravery by jumping from the cliff onto the top of Leaping Rock roughly 12 feet away and jamming an arrow into one of the cracks.
Pictures: Nicollet Inscription | Leaping Rock
Winnewissa Falls, while not the most dramatic waterfall, holds a legendary tale. According to lore, the Great Spirit used the pipestone to form a pipe and smoke it over warring nations, urging them to lay down their arms. The nearby waterfall symbolically pours from the rock, representing peace.
Pictures: The best view I could capture of the falls with the bridge closed—From the Top | The stairs that connect the top and bottom of Winnewissa Falls
Picture: A close-up shot of Winnewissa Falls
Returning to the Visitor Center and completing the Circle Trail, you’ll be greeted by the impressive Quartzite Cliffs and resilient plants thriving through rock cracks. Finally, you’ll reach The Oracle, a natural rock formation with a face-like profile that seems to watch over the land—a sacred spot where offerings were traditionally made in exchange for wisdom.
Picture: Another Quarry Site
Visiting Pipestone National Monument offers a unique journey through both natural beauty and deep spiritual significance. The sacred landscape, with its historical and cultural richness, provides a profound connection to the past. It’s a reminder that every rock and trail tells a story that transcends time, making it a must-see for anyone seeking more than just a scenic view.
Next up: Fort Ransom State Park in North Dakota. Catch You on the Road!
At 1,670 feet above sea level, Hawkeye Point is the highest natural point in the state of Iowa. It ranks #42 among U.S. state high points, and it marked my 29th summit on this journey across America’s rooftops. While it’s not a lung-busting climb, it absolutely delivers in small-town charm and roadside character.
After wrapping up my adventure at Devil’s Lake State Park in Wisconsin, I set my sights west. Interstate 90 carried me through southern Minnesota with Above & Beyond’s Group Therapy playing in the background. The sky stretched wide. The road hummed. Road trip mode fully engaged.
Then, as I neared Blue Earth, Minnesota, I spotted a sign about a Green Giant.
Now, when it comes to roadside oddities, I’m all in.
Road trips are about the unexpected. So I keep the schedule loose. My motto? You never know if you’ll pass this way again — so why not seize the moment?
Calling Devil’s Lake State Park “popular” is like calling the Grand Canyon “a big hole”—a serious understatement! This place is the ultimate playground, with a sandy beach, picnic areas, and trails even the most leisurely strollers can handle. It reminded me of Lincoln Woods State Park in Rhode Island, especially when I was high up on the West Bluff trail, still catching the sounds of beachside fun. Locals flock here like it’s the first sunny day in ages, and with a $16 car fee for non-residents ($13 for residents), that popularity comes at a price. So, if you’re planning a visit, be ready for crowds, long waits, and packed parking lots—especially on weekends and holidays. As Wisconsin’s DNR warns, “Visitors to Devil’s Lake should expect long wait times and busy parking lots from May through October on weekends and holidays. Parking lots often fill before 9 a.m., and access to the park may be temporarily restricted until congestion lessens.”
Pictures: North Entrance | Sign Near the North Shore Concession Area – Popular for Pictures!
Legend has it . . .
Over 14,000 years ago, during the last Ice Age, Devil’s Lake in Wisconsin was born—not out of anything devilish, but thanks to retreating glaciers. These icy giants carved out the stunning lake we see today, cradled by towering bluffs. The Ho-Chunk people, the original caretakers of this land, called it Tee Wakącąk, honoring its deep spiritual significance as a sacred place.
When European settlers showed up, they often misunderstood or overlooked the spiritual importance of such sites. That’s how “Devil’s Lake” came to be, even though names like “Lake of the Two Hills” or “Wild Beauty Lake” would have been a better fit. But the mysterious, slightly spooky name stuck, adding an extra layer of intrigue.
In 1911, Devil’s Lake was officially designated a state park, preserving this natural wonder for all to enjoy. Today, the park covers over 9,200 acres, offering endless opportunities for adventure. Whether you’re hiking the rugged bluffs, paddling across the crystal-clear waters, or just soaking in the view, remember: this isn’t just a pretty spot. It’s a place steeped in history, shaped by glaciers, revered by the Ho-Chunk, and with a story stretching back over 14,000 years.
Picture: Park Map
Two Fun Filled Days of Adventure
After my morning hike at Parfrey’s Glen Natural Area (right next door to Devil’s Lake State Park), I made my way to the North Entrance of Devil’s Lake for two full days of exploring and adventure. With all the hype around this place, I wanted to take my time and soak it all in, not rush through it. As I mentioned in my Parfrey’s Glen post, I grabbed a parking voucher to redeem at a State Park Office—conveniently, there’s one right at Devil’s Lake. The whole process of getting the annual pass was a breeze. I pulled into a spot, slapped the pass on my rental SUV, and voilà—free entry to any Wisconsin State Park for the rest of 2024, as long as I stick with the same rental car! 🤣🤣🤣
Pictures: Day 1 – West Bluff Trail | Day 2 – East Bluff Trail
Attention Walmart Customers
With the day still young and the park not too crowded, I decided to make a quick run to the local Walmart for some provisions. I’ll admit, Walmart is one of my go-to spots when I’m hiking or road-tripping. That, Aldi, and if I’m lucky, Trader Joe’s—predictable and reasonably priced.
Next up: firewood. Here’s the deal—don’t move firewood! Seriously, buy it where you burn it. There’s even a whole organization and website dedicated to this cause, complete with state-specific regulations: DontMoveFirewood.org. In Wisconsin, if you’re buying uncertified wood, it must originate within 10 miles of the park. The responsible choice? Get your wood from the park or a certified dealer. From my experience, park prices are usually on par with roadside stands. So, do the right thing and buy local!
Paved Trails and City Folk
With provisions and local firewood in hand, I headed back to the park. The parking lot was starting to fill up, though it wasn’t packed yet—probably a bit too early for the city folk, lol. I made a quick detour to the gift shop to grab my obligatory postcards. Yep, I’m that person who still loves sending postcards from my travels—call me old school, but it’s a blast. After stashing my new postcards in the car, I figured I’d take advantage of the decent weather (overcast, with rain lurking in the forecast) and hit the West Bluff Trail. It’s a 1.4-mile trek that takes you to the South Shore.
Starting from the North Shore beach and picnic area, the trail kicks off with a stair workout—210 steps, if you’re counting, before it finally flattens out. As I climbed, I noticed the steps were paved. It didn’t really bother me at first—I just figured they did it to keep the stairs from eroding. But when I got to the top and realized the entire trail was paved, I was a bit thrown off. It’s hard to feel like you’re out in nature when the ground beneath your shoes is as smooth as a city sidewalk. Plus, the downslopes were slippery with even the tiniest hint of moisture. Maybe they paved it to handle the wear and tear of thousands of hikers? Still, it felt like I’d never really left the city.
Pictures: West Bluff Trailhead | West Bluff Trail – it starts out like a real trail
Pictures: The beginning of the 210 Stairs | The Paved Trail
Speaking of city vibes, the closer I got to the bluff, the more I could hear the holiday weekend crowd. The beach and picnic area were buzzing with laughter and music. And just to drive the point home, as I rounded a corner, I bumped into three women, one of whom was blasting tunes on her phone, shattering the natural silence.
Picture: The North Beach, Picinic and Concession Area – before the crowds!
Despite the paved trail and city folk, the West Bluff Trail serves up some seriously spectacular views of the lake and surrounding area. You’ll find yourself constantly stopping for photos—just when you think you’ve nailed the perfect shot, a new angle pops up, and you’re snapping away again.
Pictures: A rare moment where I’m not snapping a selfie! I had to give some directions for this shot. The rock is actually hanging off the cliff, but it didn’t quite come out as I pictured. Oh well.
Pictures: Devil’s Lake looking North, then South
Picture: Some of the incredible cliffs you’ll encounter on the West Bluff Trail
What goes up, must come down! As I approached the South Shore, it was time to tackle another set of stairs. Emerging from the trees, I found myself at the start of the Tumbled Rocks Trail (more on that in a bit).
Holy Snake Batman!
I decided to walk along the South Shore before heading back to the North Shore, and boy, am I glad I did! I always try to stay sharp when I’m out hiking, hoping to catch those rare, magical glimpses of nature. As I wandered along the rocky shore, peering through the boulders, my eye landed on a Water Snake lounging on a rock. As I looked closer, I could see the outline of a fish in its belly! Clearly, the little guy was taking a breather to digest its meal. How cool is that? Later, a volunteer at the nature center told me that while these snakes aren’t venomous, they pack a nasty bite that hurts like heck. Good to know if I ever decide to take a dip in the lake!
Pictures: Spotted a Water Snake! | Close-up—check out the fish in its belly on the right
Knowing I had another day to soak up the adventure, I planned to conquer the East Bluff from North Shore to South Shore. I headed back to the Tumbled Rocks Trail, a one-mile trek that snakes along the lake’s edge through a sprawling boulder field. These massive boulders stretch from the water’s edge up to the bluff’s rim, and looking up at them, I couldn’t help but be reminded of the boulder field on Abol Trail at Mt. Katahdin. The trail here is well-carved and easy to navigate—no steep stair-climbing required, which means it’s a bit of a hotspot. Despite the crowd, I decided to kick things up a notch with a trail run back to the North Shore.
Pictures: Tumbled Rock Trailhead – South Shore | View along the Tumbled Rock Trail | Tumbled Rock Trail
So, off I went, running along the Tumbled Rocks Trail. The boulder fields really did give me flashbacks to the Abol Trail on Katahdin. It was a fun run, and for the most part, folks were kind enough to step aside as I approached. Before I knew it, I was back at the North Shore—aka picnic central—and figured it was high time to check into my campsite.
Pictures: The Boulder Field along Tumbled Rock Trail (Pro tip: there’s an easy path through it!)
The Entertainment in People Watching
Devil’s Lake boasts three campgrounds with a total of 423 campsites. Mine was in the Quartzite Campground, right by the North Entrance. Off I went to track down my site and get everything set up. Now, setting up doesn’t take me long because, on this trip, I’m camping in the back of my SUV. All I had to do was unload the firewood, set up my chair, plug in the extension cord, and pop those cool mesh screens onto the back windows. These screens are a game-changer—they slip over the door frame, letting fresh air in while keeping the bugs out. Perfect for a cool breeze as I sleep!
Pictures: My SUV and Camping Set-Up | Mesh Door Screen for a breezy, bug-free night
With some time to spare before sunset (more on that later), I cracked open a beer and grabbed some snacks. Shoutout to my buddy Peter from Australia—check out the beer cozy in the pic! It’s for the female jazz trio Tokyo Groove Jyoshi. Peter’s managing the band, and I got to see them live when they recently played in Vegas. Definitely give them a listen!
Pictures: Camping Vibes wtih Tokyo Groove | Tokyo Groove Jyoshi, (from left) Mimi, Rina, Emi.
As I settled in, I found myself unexpectedly entertained by the arrival of more campers. Watching people maneuver their rigs and park their campers turned into a comedy show. The way folks navigated “helpful” advice while hunting for the perfect spot was a masterclass in patience and communication—especially between men and women! It was downright hilarious to see who took charge during the setup and, honestly, what some people deem essential for a camping trip. Overkill, if you ask me, but hey, to each their own! And, okay, I know—I’ve got an extension cord to charge my phone and work on my laptop, so I guess I’m not entirely off the hook either.
Sunset Spectacles and Greased Lightning
I’d heard the sunsets here are nothing short of spectacular, but finding the perfect spot is part of the adventure. So, I set off on the East Bluff Trail, determined to catch the show. As I climbed up to the bluffs, I couldn’t help but notice a group of kids I’d seen earlier at the boat rental and ice cream stands. They were on a mission, heading toward “their” sunset-watching spot like seasoned pros. It was like a scene straight out of Grease—their carefree vibe, their youthful energy—I half expected them to break into song:
Summer lovin’, had me a blast Summer lovin’, happened so fast I met a girl crazy for me Met a boy cute as can be Summer days drifting away To uh, oh those summer nights…
Ah, to be young, with the world at your feet—or at least the best sunset view in the park. I found a couple of decent spots to soak in the sunset, but looking back (after hiking the entire East Bluff Trail the next day), I probably should’ve ventured a bit further down the trail for an even more spectacular view. But hey, you live and learn! In the end, I couldn’t complain—perched on top of the bluff, watching the sun dip below the horizon, was pretty magical.
Picture: Golden hour magic as the sun dips below the horizon
As the sun finally disappeared below the horizon, I made my way back to my campsite, ready to cap off the day in style. I fired up the campfire, cracked open a cold one, and dug into some well-earned snacks. After a day of hiking and soaking in epic views, there’s no better way to wrap things up than with good food, a warm fire, and a little bit of chill time under the stars.
Those Darn Car Safety Features!
Most campgrounds shut down pretty early, and even have quiet times. Not that you can’t stay up late, but with a big day of hiking ahead, I decided to hit the sack around 10:30 pm. Just as I was getting cozy in my sleeping bag, my car alarm suddenly blared to life. Yep, I was that person. And not just once—the alarm went off three times! So much for a peaceful night. I barely slept, worried it might happen again, and ended up leaving the doors unlocked, which thankfully did the trick. Turns out, if I’d just locked the doors manually instead of using the FOB, the alarm wouldn’t have triggered. Apparently, my car has a safety feature that goes off if it senses weight in the backseat after locking—probably to keep you from accidentally leaving your kid or pet behind. Nice in theory, but not so much for my camping adventure!
Camping Tradition
Isn’t it ironic that people go to bed early when camping but aren’t up at the crack of dawn? I’m not talking 5 AM early—just a solid 8 AM. Come on, folks, seize the day! But enough of my rant; let’s talk morning traditions. For me, it’s all about a dark, cold-brew coffee with a splash of half-and-half. It’s the perfect caffeine fix without needing to fuss over a campfire. Or, I guess I could be like the folks in the camper next to me who just plug in the coffee maker they brought from home.
As I sat there enjoying my coffee, I heard some rustling near the car. Oh great—just what I needed. I’d started a trash bag and planned to toss it on my way to the hike, but those sneaky squirrels got to it first! I know we’re out in nature, but come on! My campsite wasn’t even near the tree line, and yet, these opportunistic little buggers still found their way to my trash. Classic.
Blue Sky Opportunity!
The East Bluff Trailhead was just a half-mile from my campsite, so off I went. The morning greeted me with some blue sky—something I missed the day before—perfect for snapping photos of the lake. Before tackling the East Bluff Trail, I made a quick detour to the lake. I crossed over the train tracks—Wisconsin & Southern has active tracks running along the east side of the lake and between two of the campgrounds. During my stay, I caught a few trains in action, so if you’re exploring near the tracks, keep your eyes peeled!
Picture: Blue skies and morning vibes from the east side of the lake. Perfect start to the day!
Then, it was time for the East Bluff Trail, a breezy 1.1-mile hike down to the Balanced Rock Trail. The trail splits early on: to the left is the East Bluff Woods Trail, and to the right is the East Bluff Trail—the same route I took the night before to catch the sunset. I headed right, where you’ll find some of the park’s iconic features. Just like the West Bluff Trail, you start with a series of stairs leading up to the bluff’s top.
Pictures: East Bluff Trailhead | The beginning of East Bluff Trail
Pictures: Trail Split – East Bluff to the right and East Bluff Woods to the left | The trails are well marked
Pictures: Stairs Leading Up East Bluff Trail | The Rock Where I Sat to Catch the Sunset Last Night
First up is Elephant Rock, which has sparked a bit of debate. Officially, it’s called Elephant Rock, but I’m with the Bison camp on this one—it definitely looks more like a Bison. Maybe Wisconsin should put it on the ballot this November and settle the debate once and for all!
Picture: Elephant Rock – More Like Bison Rock – IMO
As I hiked, I enjoyed the early morning peace—everyone else was either still snoozing or having breakfast. Well, that tranquil vibe didn’t last long. The silence was soon shattered by a family with two kids who thought the forest was their personal playground.
More Views and Oh Yeah – Bugs!
Just like the West Bluff, the East Bluff Trail offers plenty of spots for stunning lake and landscape photos. But unlike yesterday, the bugs were out in force today. I definitely need to up my bug spray game; no matter how much I apply, it feels like they’re on me non-stop. Ugh. Another thing to note: the East Bluff Trail has more varied terrain with some ups and downs, adding a bit more challenge. Nothing too extreme, but worth noting if you’re planning your hike.
Pictures: View of Devil’s Lake from the East Bluff Trail | North Shore Beach with Train Tracks Alongside the Lake
Pictures: Views of Devil’s Lake from the East Bluff Trail
Pictures: Looking towards the North Beach | Some of the Wildlife – A Hawk | Look towards the SOut
Balance Rock or Bust!
When it comes to iconic features of the park, Balance Rock definitely steals the show. But don’t worry about dodging hordes of tourists—this spot has its own set of challenges. I counted 319 steps down, and let’s just say they’re not the easy kind you’d find on the West Bluff Trail. Sure, it gets busy in the summer, but those steps are a pretty effective crowd deterrent. If you’re not too steady on your feet or if hiking isn’t quite your thing, you might want to think twice. However, the trek is definitely worth it—not only for the impressive rock but also for the stunning lake views.
Pictures: Balanced Rock Trail Marker | The Stairs down to Balance Rock
Picture: The Iconic Balanced Rock
Pictures: I love finding cool mushrooms | Seriously?!! – Trash left behind – Please Leave No Trace! | Climbing those stairs: 319 steps to the top!
From there, I continued along the East Bluff Trail for a bit to check out another park favorite: Devil’s Doorway. To get there, you’ll tackle more stairs, but thankfully, not as many as to Balance Rock. Some websites give a heads-up about the steep and uneven stone steps and the narrow rock ledge with drop-offs, warning that hikers need to be extra cautious. And yes, while that’s crucial advice, it goes without saying that you should always stay alert while hiking. Devil’s Doorway is a cool spot with even more fantastic views of the lake, making the careful trek well worth it.
Pictures: Trail Marker to the Devil’s Doorway | Devil’s Doorway
Picture: Devil’s Doorway—The door’s wide open. Come on in, if you dare!
Picture: Super Cool Tree near the Devil’s Doorway
Let the Real Adventure Begin!
With no strict plan and a park like this, I decided to dive into the notorious Potholes Trail. Named for the “potholes” carved into the rocks by ancient waters, this short but intense 0.3-mile trail is said to take up to 2 hours. It’s steep, packed with stairs, and offers a cool feature—a dramatic split in the rock face. I enjoyed the challenge and met a few adventurers braving the climb up the trail as I made my descent.
Pictures: Potholes Trailhead | The Steep Steps down Potholes Trail
Pictures: Looking Up—The stairs I tackled on the way down | Near the Split in the Rock
The Potholes Trail eventually dead-ends at the Grotto Trail. This one’s a welcome contrast—a wide, easy-going path that winds through the woods at the base of the bluffs. The Grotto Trail is not just easy on the legs but also features hidden gems called Grottos. These are natural cold air sinks where chilly air from beneath the rocky bluff creates refreshing hideouts on sweltering summer days. Sadly, I think I missed these cool spots!
Pictures: Junction of Potholes Trail and Grotto Trail | Looking up Potholes Trail from Grotto Trail
As I strolled leisurely down the Grotto Trail, I had plenty of time to ponder and reflect. One perk of the Potholes Trail is that it’s a bit of a quiet escape with hardly any kids around. The same vibe continues on the Grotto Trail—head away from the beach and easy-access trails, and you’ll find fewer families and more peace. As I made my way, I couldn’t help but mentally prepare for the climb back up to the East Bluff. More stairs are definitely in my future!
Pictures: Along the Grotto Trail—A lush paradise with a totally different feel from the Bluff Trails!
Boulder Field and Rock Climbers
As I rounded the bend on the Grotto Trail, I connected with the CCC Trail and looked up—yep, I was definitely in for a steep climb! The good news? It wasn’t as tough as I’d braced myself for. I got my wish to hike through the boulder field, and while it wasn’t as challenging as Abol Trail in Maine, the stairs carved into the boulders made the ascent a bit easier. The views up here are stunning, and you quickly realize how far you’ve climbed away from the lake below. It’s a great reminder of the expansive beauty of the park.
Pictures: Gazing up at the Boulder Field I’m about to tackle | Where the Grotto Trail and CCC Trail Cross Paths
Pictures: The CCC Trail through the Boulder Field
At the top, I encountered a lively group of climbers, many of whom looked like a school group on an adventure. They were scaling a small cliff with impressive enthusiasm. Major kudos to them—I’m not sure I’d have the guts for that kind of climb! After soaking in the scene and catching my breath, I decided to make my way back along the East Bluff Trail. Instead of retracing my steps, I opted for the East Bluff Woods Trail, which is about a 1.3-mile hike back to where I started this morning. This route is a bit longer but much easier on the ascent to Balanced Rock compared to the East Bluff Trail.
Pictures: Climbers’ Ropes | A View That Shows Just How Far You’ve Hiked from the Lake
Pictures: Trekking Along the East Bluff Woods Trail | Beware: Steep Hill Sign for Mountain Bikers
All in all, it was a fantastic day of hiking and exploring. I made the short trek back to my campsite—a mere 0.6 miles—eager for some well-deserved eats – another camp staple, grilled cheese – and cold drinks. A roaring campfire capped off the perfect end to an adventurous day. There’s nothing like relaxing by the fire after a day of epic trails and breathtaking views!
Picture: A Camping Staple – Skillet Grilled Cheese Perfection!
Top Activities at Devil’s Lake State Park
With 29 miles of scenic trails, two sandy beaches, and endless outdoor adventures, Devil’s Lake State Park is your playground of natural beauty. Pack a picnic, grab a paddle, or even tackle some towering cliffs—this park has it all. Ready to dive in? Let’s explore the top activities that make this place a must-visit!
Hiking and Nature Trails Lace up those boots! Whether you’re after a heart-pounding trek up the West Bluff or a peaceful stroll along the East Bluff, Devil’s Lake has trails for every kind of hiker. Expect jaw-dropping views, especially when the fall colors hit—perfect for that Insta-worthy shot!
Water Activities Dive into the fun with a kayak, canoe, or paddleboard rental right at the lake. Whether you’re paddling across the glassy waters or fishing for bass, this 360-acre lake is your perfect summer escape. Don’t forget to bring your sunscreen—this is where sun-soaked memories are made!
Rock Climbing and Bouldering Got a taste for adventure? The quartzite cliffs here are calling your name! With some peaks towering over 500 feet, it’s a climber’s paradise. New to climbing? No worries! Local outfitters offer rock climbing and bouldering lessons, so you can conquer those heights like a pro.
Wildlife Watching Bring your binoculars because Devil’s Lake is a wildlife wonderland! Spot white-tailed deer prancing through the woods or keep your eyes peeled for majestic eagles soaring overhead. Whether you’re a seasoned birdwatcher or just love critters, the park’s diverse habitats have something wild to offer.
Camping Under the Stars End your day the right way—under a blanket of stars! Set up camp and enjoy a night filled with s’mores, stories, and stargazing. With campsites ranging from rustic to RV-ready, there’s a spot for everyone to enjoy the park’s peaceful nighttime vibes
The Devil’s Lake Wrap-Up
So, Devil’s Lake—what a trip! If you’re into stunning views, a mix of laid-back and challenging trails, and some serious people-watching (I’m looking at you, campers), then this park should be on your list. But if I’m honest, it probably won’t top my all-time favorites. Sure, it’s got everything you need for a great adventure, but the paved trails and crowded hotspots made it feel a bit more like a city escape than a true nature getaway. Still, the lake’s beauty and those epic bluffs are worth the hike—just maybe on a quieter day. Whether you’re chasing sunsets, scrambling up rocks, kayaking, or sun-bathing on the beach, Devil’s Lake has its own unique charm. Just don’t forget to pack your sense of humor and a healthy dose of patience—trust me, you’ll need both!
During a visit to Starved Rock State Park in Illinois, I struck up a conversation with a lively group of women on a girls’ trip from Wisconsin. They were seasoned adventurers, always seeking new outdoor escapades. Naturally, I offered to snap their picture, and in return, they shared a treasure trove of must-visit spots. One gem that caught my ear was Parfrey’s Glen State Natural Area. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that this secluded natural wonder is actually nestled within Wisconsin’s Devil’s Lake State Park, which happens to be my next destination—hailed as the best state park in Wisconsin by the Discoverer Blog.
Pictures: Entrance Sign off of County Road DL | Parking Lot
Helpful Hints
Wisconsin charges for entry to its state parks, and Devil’s Lake is one of the pricier ones at $16 per day for non-residents. However, you can snag an annual pass for $38, which is a better deal if you’re planning a longer stay. The only catch? The pass has to be attached to the inside of your windshield. Even though I was in a rental, I opted for the annual pass since I was staying for three days—$48 for daily fees versus $38 for the pass? No brainer!
Now, as you’re planning your visit, I wouldn’t recommend paying $16 just to see Parfrey’s Glen. It’s a nice spot, but not worth the fee on its own. If you’re visiting other parks in Wisconsin, it’s a great addition to your trip.
A Glimpse into History
Parfreys Glen, named after Robert Parfrey, a 19th-century settler who was among the first to appreciate its beauty, has long been a cherished destination for nature enthusiasts. The glen’s formation dates back to the last Ice Age, over 12,000 years ago, when glacial meltwater carved through the sandstone and quartzite, creating the narrow, steep-sided gorge that we see today. This geological marvel not only showcases stunning rock formations but also serves as a living testament to the Earth’s dynamic history. As Wisconsin’s first designated State Natural Area, this enchanting gorge offers a fascinating blend of history, adventure, and breathtaking scenery.
Pictures: Rock Rededicating the Park as a Natural Area
Peaceful Morning Hike
I spent the night in Middleton, Wisconsin (just outside Madison) and woke up early, ready for an adventure. Since I was ahead of schedule, I decided to check out Parfrey’s Glen for a morning hike. The trail is a manageable 1.7 miles round trip, perfect for a peaceful start to the day. The cool morning air and last night’s rain kept the bugs at bay, though they were starting to stir.
Parfrey’s Glen offers a relatively easy yet incredibly rewarding trail that takes you deep into a stunning gorge. The hike begins with a gentle stroll through lush woodlands, then gradually becomes more rugged as you get closer to the glen. Along the way, you’ll cross a creek multiple times and be surrounded by towering cliffs and vibrant, moss-covered boulders. The trail ends at a beautiful waterfall, where the soothing sound of cascading water invites you to pause, reflect, and enjoy the tranquil scenery.
My morning hike at Parfrey’s Glen was the perfect start to an adventurous day in Wisconsin!
Pictures: An Old Pitcher Pump | Trailhead Marker | Initial Part of the Trail
Pictures: Views along the hike
Pictures: The trail and one of the areas you cross the creek
Pictures: The beautiful walls of the gorge
Pictures: Close up view of the gorge walls
Picture: The waterfall at the end of the trail
Pictures: As I finished my hike, I saw a deer | The Ice Age Trail goes into Devil’s Lake State Park
1,235 feet above sea level, Charles Mound is the highest natural point in Illinois, ranking #45 among U.S. state high points. Tucked into the rolling farmland near Scales Mound, this quiet rise was my 28th state high point—and, thanks to a spontaneous decision, one that put me ahead of schedule.
With the long summer days and a shorter-than-expected stay at Backbone State Park, I realized I hadn’t booked a place to stay for the evening. So, instead of calling it a night, I pointed the car east and made a run for the Illinois high point, hoping to arrive before dark. Thankfully, I made it with daylight to spare.
I’m back at it after a winter hiatus from Highpointing and exploring the Discoverer’s List of The Best State Park in Each State! This month’s adventure revolves around “summiting” Charles Mound, the highest natural point in Illinois. This peak sits on private land, and the gracious owners open it to the public the first weekend of June, July, August, and September, from sunrise to sunset. More on that in my next post!
With these key dates in mind, I embarked on my journey. I flew from sunny San Diego, California, to Minneapolis, Minnesota, where I rented an SUV for my month-long journey through the upper Midwest. I’ll be mixing it up between camping in my trusty SUV and staying at a few hotels along the way. I opted to spend the night in Rochester, Minnesota, and picked up some sundries on the way to my hotel. I don’t normally do this, but I ordered everything ahead of time and drove up to the store to have it placed in the back of my SUV. Talk about a game changer and it saved me a ton of time! The next morning, after breakfast at the hotel, I headed for my first stop, Backbone State Park in Dundee, Iowa.
Should a Name Worry You?
We’ve all heard the story: Greenland and Iceland were named with a bit of strategy (and perhaps a touch of mischief). Greenland isn’t exactly a lush paradise, and Iceland isn’t just a block of ice. As I cruised through the charming back roads of Minnesota, I stumbled upon the towns of Harmony and Prosper. Did early settlers name these towns hoping to manifest a little extra luck and good vibes? I wouldn’t be surprised!
Picture: Harmony, Minnesota | Population 1,043
Then, as I meandered through Decorah, Iowa, I spotted signs for the Laura Ingalls Wilder Park and Museum. Shockingly, I learned she was a real person, not just a character from the 70’s and 80’s TV Show “Little House on the Prairie.” Who knew? Apparently, there are several museums, and this one marks her home from 1876-1877. Laura was a writer who penned a beloved series of children’s books about her childhood, aptly titled “Little House on the Prairie.”
And on a completely unrelated note: isn’t it funny how even the tiniest towns in America boast either a Mexican or Chinese restaurant? Next time you’re on a road trip, see if you can spot one!
Backbone State Park and the CCC
I’ve noticed a trend with the Discoverer’s List—many places owe their existence to the hardworking Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) or were among the first state parks in their area and Backbone State Park fits both categories. The CCC built many of the park’s amenities, including roads, trails, and the historic Stone Lodge, which remains a popular spot for gatherings and events. Their craftsmanship and dedication are evident in the enduring structures that blend seamlessly with the natural environment.
According to the park’s website, “Dedicated in 1920 as Iowa’s first state park, Backbone State Park is one of the most geographically unique locations in Iowa.” That’s no exaggeration! While Iowa may bring to mind sprawling farms and flat plains, Backbone State Park breaks the mold with its more rugged terrain. The Maquoketa River’s carved, steep ridge—dubbed The Devil’s Backbone—rises as the highest point in northeast Iowa, living up to its epic name with an 80-foot ascent above the river. This geological wonder not only defines the park but also offers visitors a glimpse into the area’s rich natural history.
Pictures: South Gate Entrance | About the Civilian Conservation Corp and Iowa Parks
Exploring Backbone’s Natural Wonders
I kicked off my adventure at Backbone State Park by entering through the south entrance and snagging a parking spot near the beach and boathouse. Since it was early and the recent rains had turned the lake a bit muddy, I had the whole place to myself—no one on the beach, no boats on the lake. The boathouse is pretty cool with its rustic charm and vintage vibes. It looks like you can rent paddle boats and canoes there, but it was all closed up on my visit. So after a look around, off I went to explore the rest of the park.
Picture: The Boathouse
Pictures: From the Boathouse – The Beach and the Rental Boats
I started my trek on the East Lake Trail, a 2.4-mile path skirting the lake. It wasn’t the easiest to find at first—I had to do a bit of wandering before finally spotting a trail marker. The initial stretch was a little overgrown, not my idea of a fun hike, but certainly added to the adventure. But as I pressed on, the path opened up, becoming clearer and more inviting. The trail was surprisingly quiet, with only a few people around. I did spot three guys fishing, totally soaking in the peace and quiet. Navigating around a few fallen trees was no big deal, and the rock formations were giving me major upstate New York vibes, which was a cool surprise. Despite the muddy waters and high lake levels from recent rains, the trail offered nice views and a serene experience. About halfway through, I stumbled upon the Bluebird Trail, an easy and inviting 2.2-mile detour, perfect for those looking for a gentler hike.
Pictures: The East Lake Trail Marker? | Beginning of the East Lake Trail | One of the many fallen trees
Pictures: Some of the many Rock Formations
As I continued along the East Lake Trail, I ended up veering off track a bit. I quickly realized that the trails at Backbone State Park aren’t exactly the most well-marked. After crossing a bridge, I unintentionally went straight instead of taking the right path. After some backtracking, I found my way back on track, thanks to seeing some hikers in the distance coming from the direction I needed to go in. There were a few pesky flies buzzing around, but I chuckled seeing them donning full-head nets—I initially thought it was a bit over the top. Little did I know, they would have the last laugh as you’ll find out later.
Pictures: Another Rock Formation | The North End of the Lake | Part of the East Lake Trail
Enter in the City Folk
Ah, city folk—those urban adventurers who brave the great outdoors! The Backbone Trail seems to attract them like moths to a flame. It’s the park’s namesake, it’s flat as a pancake, and at just 0.8 miles, it’s perfect for a quick jaunt. As I came up to the parking lot, I braced myself for the urban invasion. Take a deep breath and prepare for the experience!
I’m pleased to report that, by and large, everyone was civilized and respectful on the trail. Having hiked all over the country and read up on this trail, I was expecting a bit more of an adrenaline rush. It’s wide enough, with a few spots near the edge that might make you gulp (especially for someone afraid of heights), but nothing too heart-stopping.
Pictures: The Backbone Trailhead | The Backbone Trail
Pictures: Views of the Maquoketa River as it winds around both sides of the Devil’s Backbone
Pictures: Along the Backbone Trail
Quirky Moment
From the Backbone Trail, I ventured towards the Six Pines Trail, a short 0.6-mile path that surprisingly led me directly to the Six Pines Campground. Getting to this trailhead was a mix of road and trail, making me wonder why the trails aren’t better connected in such a sprawling park. Later, heading from the East Entrance up to Richmond Springs, I encountered a similar situation—only road access was available.
Anyway, at the Six Pines Trailhead, a car pulled up, and out stepped a woman with a distinct foreign accent, casually puffing on a cigarette. She started up the trail ahead of me but then suddenly veered off into the woods between two marked paths. Not sure where she was headed, but hey, to each their own. This trail had some awesome elevation changes and plenty of valleys to explore.
Pictures: Along the Six Pines Trail
Lost Opportunity
Backbone State Park has camping options for everyone. The South Lake Campground offers modern amenities like electric hookups and showers, all nestled among the trees for that perfect nature-immersed experience. On the flip side, the Six Pines Campground gives off a more secluded, primitive camping vibe. Since it was a summer holiday weekend, online booking required a minimum stay of two nights—Friday and Saturday. Planning for just one night, I kept my options open, knowing walk-ups were possible if space was available. After a day of exploring the park, I set my sights eastward, prepping for my next adventure at Charles Mound.
It’s worth noting that when I stumbled upon the Six Pines Campground, it was completely empty—a missed opportunity in my opinion! While I didn’t check South Lake, there might have been some availability there too. Honestly, the Iowa park system could really benefit from a savvy revenue manager for their online bookings. Just a thought!
Picture: The Empty Six Pines Campground (this is Saturday, day 2 of the weekend requirement)
Oh, the Mosquito Saga!
The last trail before I ventured up to the northern part of the park was the West Lake Trail, a 3.0-mile journey that looped me back to the parking lot and boathouse. Right at the start, I crossed a bridge over a swollen, muddy creek—definitely not your average trickle. On the other side, the trail was a squelchy mess, teeming with mosquitoes. They let up once I pushed past the marshy spots, but it was still a battle of wills.
The hike itself was pleasant enough, though a tad monotonous. I was itching (literally!) to get back to the car and explore the northern reaches of the park. So, I trudged onward, and eventually, the trail wound me around from the beach and over the dam that created the lake.
Pictures: The bridge over the swollen creek and a warning sign about high water
Pictures: The View across the Lake | The Dam
Should of gotten the Ice Cream!
I finally made it back to the parking area, and the little shop was open. The park was getting busier and there were even people on the beach and swimming. (I guess the water wasn’t as muddy as I thought in the lake). I stopped by the little shop, tempted by the advertised smoothies. Unfortunately, it was more like a sugary slushy than a real smoothie – definitely a poor choice. Next time, I’ll stick with ice cream! Also, a shop without postcards? That’s a definite red flag. Lesson learned, folks!
Pictures: The Smoothie Sign | Inside the Shop | My Mango “Smoothie”
No easy way
So, just like with the trails, the roads in the park aren’t exactly seamlessly connected. I had to exit through the South Gate and loop around to the East Gate—a bit of a detour, about a 3-mile trek. The East Gate boasts an old-school sign, likely put up by the CCC back in the day. As you drive in, you’ll spot the Maquoketa River Scenic Overlook, which I hiked below earlier in the day. Unfortunately, thanks to all the lush vegetation, the view wasn’t exactly panoramic right now.
Heading north, the road winds for a little over 3 miles. Near the end, there’s a trail called the Barred Owl Trail that I considered hiking initially, but it’s just 0.4 miles and didn’t seem too thrilling. Along the way, there are a few pit stops. The first one is Balanced Rock, which took me a hot minute to actually find—it’s not exactly conspicuous, unlike the one I’ll tell you about at Devil’s Lake State Park in Wisconsin.
Pictures: The East Gate Sign | Maquoketa River Scenic Overlook | The Overlook View?
A not so Scary Cave, but Scary Springs
Next on the road trip agenda was The Cave. It’s just a short hike from the parking lot—nothing too deep or terrifying, as caves go. Near the parking area, the creek flows under the road, and whoever designed it built tunnels that create these cool whirlpools before the water disappears under the road.
Pictures: The Cave Trailhead | Trail to the Cave | Cool Whirlpool
Picture: The Cave
The final stop on this tour was Richmond Springs. They say it’s a constant 48 degrees, but I wouldn’t dare jump in, even on a scorching hot day. The springs looked a bit spooky, filled with patches that seemed like algae or some kind of growth.
Pictures: Richmond Springs | The Growth in the Springs
My take on Backbone State Park
Reflecting on my visit to Backbone State Park brought back memories of my childhood trips to Green Lakes State Park in upstate New York. Living nearby, it was a fantastic spot for picnics, camping, fishing, hitting the beach on hot summer days, or hiking the many trails. It was the perfect getaway into nature. But in retrospect, would it be a park I’d make a special trip to as a destination? Probably not. When I think about the best park in each state, I feel it should rival a National Park, and honestly, Backbone State Park didn’t quite hit that mark. Is it a fun park? Absolutely. Would I go there if I lived nearby? Hell yes.
